Favorite hunting knife

[obsessed1]

In keeping with the other hunting knife thread. Post up pics of your favorite hunting knife. And why? Add in steel type and why?

Personally I don't have a favorite yet ( in a bit of a knife junkie ) and have and have used many but never settled on one and only one. Some blades I have have great geometry but lack great steel, others use good steel but I haven't fallen in love with the design. This year I have been using sog huntspoint knives in sv30. O have both the Skinner and boning knife. I like them they work but I don't LOVE them... Still on the lookout for the knife I LOVE. Most knives I have are not custom...I'm shy of dropping 200$+ on a blade until I find what I love (Geometry and steel type). Use would be big game animals everything from gutting in field and skinning on my meat pole at home to gutless and deboning in field for pack out. I do not use my hunting knife for camp chores. I have lots of other knives for that.
I understand the exchange blade knife and have a few but hate using them. Arthritis in my hands makes dealing with the fiddly blades tough. My preference is fixed blade.
Post up what you use/ love and why

[270person]

Benchmade Saddle Mountain Skinner. S30v. 4.2" blade.

DH Russel Grohman original Canadian belt knife. Everybody should own one.

[35 whelen]

Whatever one I happen to have on me at the time last year was my K bar did a fine job on my elk. usually I have some outdoor Edge replaceable blades and swing blade that I had forgotten.

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[no-regard]

My favorite the past couple years is a Jon Graham SPT, 2.75" blade in 154cm. I carry it in a mostly horizontal sheath on the rear of my right hip (not quite center of my back) and I hardly know it's there.

Last year I found that sharpening each side to 23 degrees, up to 600 grit, seems to be it's happy place. I processed 3 deer and 1 cow elk with only the slightest of touch ups in the field with a stone.



My other go to is a Puma Hunters Pal and Puma Skinner occasionally, seen here bottom and second from the top. The Hunters Pal has a 4" blade.

[Steyr Luxus]

Puma jadgnicker 4" blade followed closely by an original Grohmann D.H Russell #3.

[Twobucks]

I'm brutal with posting pics here - the upload seems to fail everytime.

The Benchmade Hidden Canyon Hunter is easily my favourite. I have big hands and still love the way this little knife fits. The blades just 2.5" or so with lots of belly and just the right amount of drop at the point. It's great for blind cuts like the trachea when field dressing and rarely needs touching up all season long. Don't recall if it's S30 or 35 but it's a hard tough steel.

Second choice would be the Havalon piranta - dangerous sharp but it dices up critters easily and weighs nothing. Also: cheap.

[IronNoggin]

Favorite Caping Knife. Custom Built by Blacktail:



Cheers,
Nog

[ghostguy6]

Not my picture but I have both of these. The top one in this photo is a Busse Leaner Meaner and the bottom is a Boney Active Duty (BAD). I have the leaner meaner in grey scales and the BAD in Blue and Black. They feature Infi steel. I find myself using the BAD for hunting most of the time because its a great skinner and never needs more than a quick honing to the edge.

[trophyhunter]

Originally Posted by no-regard

My favorite the past couple years is a Jon Graham SPT, 2.75" blade in 154cm. I carry it in a mostly horizontal sheath on the rear of my right hip (not quite center of my back) and I hardly know it's there.

Last year I found that sharpening each side to 23 degrees, up to 600 grit, seems to be it's happy place. I processed 3 deer and 1 cow elk with only the slightest of touch ups in the field with a stone.



My other go to is a Puma Hunters Pal and Puma Skinner occasionally, seen here bottom and second from the top. The Hunters Pal has a 4" blade.

The Jon graham is a beauty! What are we looking at for price?


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[helluvahunter]

Cutco clip point with Double D edge

[no-regard]

[QUOTE=trophyhunter;4254629]The Jon graham is a beauty! What are we looking at for price?


I bought that from Jon in 2011 at a knife show in Las Vegas, I believe I paid $300 US. He told me then that he hadn't made that model very often. Just a few weeks ago he posted one on Instagram, again saying that he hadn't made one in years. I really like the fit of it.

In 2009 I bought my first Graham, a flipper Razel. It was my treat for getting my electrician masters certification. Sharp as can be, and a real attention getter.



Almost the only knife that is out there that I really feel the need to buy is a stubby razel from Jon, hopefully one day. (maybe another Sebenza as well )

[Coiloil37]

I already explained why I’ve settled on this blade shape in the other thread. It’s the best I’ve found after trying several dozen knives including over two doz customs. The steel is S90v for no good reason. Most of my other Dozier/Crotts customs use D2 and have been incredible. With a ~800 grit shaving finish they’ll cut all season. In 2015 I gutted and skinned a bear, three elk and six deer and the knife was still easily shaving my arm along its entire blade. His heat treat is perfect. With a toothy edge and D2’s large carbides it cut flesh as aggressively as a chain saw. I did that test with this knife




Now back to my steel choice. I’ve had S90v in edc knives and at RC63 I’ve found them to micro chip when I hit steel, wire, rocks etc in the media I’m cutting. They do however exhibit greater wear resistance and being as I don’t have any debris in flesh I chose to try it again in spite of the fact they have less toughness then some other choices. I did have another Dozier in S90v that cut like a laser for a very long time so I’m comfortable using it here.

The knife on the right here is the previous one I’ve used with his heat treat and S90v




My preferred scale material is mammoth ivory. Because it’s beautiful, unique and old. I enjoy the fact I’m holding a tusk from an animal that died at least 12,000 years ago and probably it’s a lot older. The ivory takes colour from the minerals it was around in the ground and I prefer blues and greens. I also like a little bark left but with smooth white colour showing and it took a long time to find a tusk I was happy with this time but Dan was a champ and texted me photos of tusks he found around various knife shows until I was happy with the set he found. Mammoth ivory also gets tacky when covered in blood and my hand sticks to it as aggressively as bead blasted micarta. It’s been a very good scale material although I’m sure I’m one of the few people dumb enough to use it. Most guys keep it in a display case and coat theirs in baby oil. Mine ride around in my pack and get used.

I did a tapered tang because the mammoth ivory is dense and heavy. The tapered tang offsets some weight and keeps the weight distribution where I want it.




I also like red liners, mosaic pins and the notches along the spine for my finger to grip when I’m cutting a specific way.




The blade shape and dimensions of this knife are the best I’ve found and quite honestly I’ve stopped looking. It’s perfect.




I also kept a Dozier in desert iron wood and D2 for my spare and the knife I’ll travel internationally with. It’s almost as good as the little Crotts for design and has worked beautifully for me.

The stock photo when I bought it



And a field shot




That knife in 2018 did that bear, three deer and a moose without being sharpened. The deer and moose I also boned out as well as skinned and gutted. The knife would still shave and cut paper effortlessly without having been touched up.




I had a caping knife



I liked that knife for a bird/trout or caping knife but have my heart set on one like the one below so I sold the one I had. Now I’m waiting my turn to have one built with sheep horn that matches this. The sheep horn has to be just like that and perfectly matched side to side so I’ll wait patiently until he’s got the set for me.

[no-regard]

This looks to be the ultimate knife. A true beauty, wow. I've started some research already.

I suppose my previous statement of only wanting one or two more knives isn't really true, how could it be! I've actually considered selling of a bunch of my collections and putting it towards 1 or 2 knives, a Dozier was at the top of my list, but after seeing this I may be rethinking things.

The spine looks to be a little thicker than the typical Dozier? My understanding is they are quite thin?

Congrats on a beautiful knife. I love that you use it, that's what they are for!

[Lefty-Canuck]

My Schrade Old Timer Sharpfinger still gets the job done.

LC

[Smoky buck]

This knife was made for me from an antler off my first archery buck. It is the most comfortable knife I have used. It holds an edge for about 2-3 deer before it needs a good sharpening. Can’t remember the steel just that if I went much harder it would be tough to hand sharpen

I have used a lot of mass production knives non can compare to a good custom blade




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[Coiloil37]

Originally Posted by no-regard

This looks to be the ultimate knife. A true beauty, wow. I've started some research already.

I suppose my previous statement of only wanting one or two more knives isn't really true, how could it be! I've actually considered selling of a bunch of my collections and putting it towards 1 or 2 knives, a Dozier was at the top of my list, but after seeing this I may be rethinking things.

The spine looks to be a little thicker than the typical Dozier? My understanding is they are quite thin?

Congrats on a beautiful knife. I love that you use it, that's what they are for!

I’m not 100% sure on the stock thickness but his high hollow grind is a slicing machine. Here’s a spine shot.




I think it’s about .130” thick at the spine but I’m not sure.

I hunt pigs with a dog and knife over here and my dozier freedom fighter I use for that is .200” thick stock. I need it that thick for all the bone impact it sees and the fact D2 isn’t as tough as something like 3V, some carbon steel or M4.










The thing I like about Crotts vs Dozier is the wait time and the quality control. Dozier has a 3+ year wait. Dan can built me a knife in about two months.
Dan Crotts is Bob Dozier’s son in law and runs the Arkansas made dozier shop. The issue is that they run a few men to build those knives and I’ve had a few Dozier’s with minor flaws. When Dan builds a knife it’s built by him and all but perfect. I’ve had Dozier’s I know Dan built himself that were perfect but often they’re made by someone else and they’ve got very tiny flaws. Dan also knows Bobs legendary heat treat of D2 and can get the best performance from that steel.

Some pics I found on my phone show the knife I prefer has a 3” cutting edge. I thought it was a bit longer but regardless it cuts like a bigger knife.





The other advantage to Dan is he will customise anything. From blade length to handle length to steel stock, grind, steel type, pins, liners, scale material, anything. With a Dozier you can change a lot too but you’ve got to wait and it’ll cost more.

I had Dan build me one I designed. In the end I didn’t like a lot about the knife and sold it but he was happy to build it off a sketch on a piece of paper.

[no-regard]

Thank you for the info, much appreciated. I thought I had put another knife out of my head but now I'm not so sure.

This looks nearly identical to something I had drawn up once, never pursued it.



Cheers.

[ceedub]

I must have 40 knives, including the new disposable blade models. I seem to grab my 35 year old Old Timer, every single time. Something about that old knife.

Craig

[obsessed1]

Originally Posted by Coiloil37

I already explained why I’ve settled on this blade shape in the other thread. It’s the best I’ve found after trying several dozen knives including over two doz customs. The steel is S90v for no good reason. Most of my other Dozier/Crotts customs use D2 and have been incredible. With a ~800 grit shaving finish they’ll cut all season. In 2015 I gutted and skinned a bear, three elk and six deer and the knife was still easily shaving my arm along its entire blade. His heat treat is perfect. With a toothy edge and D2’s large carbides it cut flesh as aggressively as a chain saw. I did that test with this knife




Now back to my steel choice. I’ve had S90v in edc knives and at RC63 I’ve found them to micro chip when I hit steel, wire, rocks etc in the media I’m cutting. They do however exhibit greater wear resistance and being as I don’t have any debris in flesh I chose to try it again in spite of the fact they have less toughness then some other choices. I did have another Dozier in S90v that cut like a laser for a very long time so I’m comfortable using it here.

The knife on the right here is the previous one I’ve used with his heat treat and S90v




My preferred scale material is mammoth ivory. Because it’s beautiful, unique and old. I enjoy the fact I’m holding a tusk from an animal that died at least 12,000 years ago and probably it’s a lot older. The ivory takes colour from the minerals it was around in the ground and I prefer blues and greens. I also like a little bark left but with smooth white colour showing and it took a long time to find a tusk I was happy with this time but Dan was a champ and texted me photos of tusks he found around various knife shows until I was happy with the set he found. Mammoth ivory also gets tacky when covered in blood and my hand sticks to it as aggressively as bead blasted micarta. It’s been a very good scale material although I’m sure I’m one of the few people dumb enough to use it. Most guys keep it in a display case and coat theirs in baby oil. Mine ride around in my pack and get used.

I did a tapered tang because the mammoth ivory is dense and heavy. The tapered tang offsets some weight and keeps the weight distribution where I want it.




I also like red liners, mosaic pins and the notches along the spine for my finger to grip when I’m cutting a specific way.




The blade shape and dimensions of this knife are the best I’ve found and quite honestly I’ve stopped looking. It’s perfect.




I also kept a Dozier in desert iron wood and D2 for my spare and the knife I’ll travel internationally with. It’s almost as good as the little Crotts for design and has worked beautifully for me.

The stock photo when I bought it



And a field shot




That knife in 2018 did that bear, three deer and a moose without being sharpened. The deer and moose I also boned out as well as skinned and gutted. The knife would still shave and cut paper effortlessly without having been touched up.




I had a caping knife



I liked that knife for a bird/trout or caping knife but have my heart set on one like the one below so I sold the one I had. Now I’m waiting my turn to have one built with sheep horn that matches this. The sheep horn has to be just like that and perfectly matched side to side so I’ll wait patiently until he’s got the set for me.

Fantastic info. I love how you analyze your equipment. I do the same thing and am somewhat of a gear junky. I have found my needs in a knife have and will continue to change as my arthritis progresses. having a tool ( knife) that cuts with minimal effort and efficiency and is controllable and doesn't tire my fingers/ hands in the process of using. Edge bevel, spine tickness, grip size/ shape, angle or cast blade design, Steel type, overall weight... All these things go into picking out the perfect blade..I'm probably 30-40 fixed blades and 80-90 folders into my search and haven't found my perfect knife..yet.

[daveyn]

and for us mere mortals...Benchmade Mini Crooked River is currently my go to folder and a Helle ARV fixed blade. they work...

[Cageyc]

I use my Neidermeyer knife, wish I would have more of them.

[Coiloil37]

Originally Posted by daveyn

and for us mere mortals...Benchmade Mini Crooked River is currently my go to folder and a Helle ARV fixed blade. they work...

I’m not the kind of guy to say what anyone else should use or makes them happy. I will however point out that the benchmade you reference is more expensive then a Crotts built with micarta, G10 or wood scales.

This







Is listed for more then this one cost me.






Obviously I have no idea what you actually spent on the benchmade though.

[kujoseto]

Here she be.
I do not know if Coiloil37 sharpened this thing before I bought it a few years ago, but I know I did not and I have used it this season and last for 3 bears, an elk, some random camp tasks and ropes and boxes among other things around the house and I am sure it is still good for the remainder of the season - even if we get a moose, a few deer, and possibly another elk. Still shaving my arm hair no problem.
And I definitely love the design as well. Awesome for skinning, cutting legs at the joints, separating heads from carcasses, and removing all the meat. It truly is a do everything knife when it comes to big game hunting. In fact I will probably be a bit more careful with it and not use it for the camp use as I want to make sure it is ready to rock for big game

[sillyak]

My sisters got me this for Christmas one year. Dunn small skinner, with S60V IIRC. Awesome knife, love the geometry and simplicity.

[no-regard]

Originally Posted by sillyak

My sisters got me this for Christmas one year. Dunn small skinner, with S60V IIRC. Awesome knife, love the geometry and simplicity.

Another excellent knife design, I've never seen those flats in the front like that, perfect for pinching the grip while skinning. Genius!!

[ghfalls]

I’m thinking about ordering one from post knives. 154cm steel and great prices. The guy makes his living making knives and trapping. Can get a nice knife with sheath for $125- $180.

[Prairiewolf]

Benchmade Grizzly Creek

*Nice blade and great steel
*Handy to have the gut hook option
*I like having the locking mechanism away from the palm unlike most brands

https://www.benchmade.com/grizzly-creek.html

[savageguy model 111]

Originally Posted by sillyak

My sisters got me this for Christmas one year. Dunn small skinner, with S60V IIRC. Awesome knife, love the geometry and simplicity.

alot of nice knifes but i really like this one i should show this pic to my sister Christmas is coming up lol

[Coiloil37]

Originally Posted by obsessed1

Fantastic info. I love how you analyze your equipment. I do the same thing and am somewhat of a gear junky. I have found my needs in a knife have and will continue to change as my arthritis progresses. having a tool ( knife) that cuts with minimal effort and efficiency and is controllable and doesn't tire my fingers/ hands in the process of using. Edge bevel, spine tickness, grip size/ shape, angle or cast blade design, Steel type, overall weight... All these things go into picking out the perfect blade..I'm probably 30-40 fixed blades and 80-90 folders into my search and haven't found my perfect knife..yet.

I agree with what your saying about how the minute details make such a difference to the way a tool performs its task(s). I analyse everything I own the same way and if it’s got any deficiencies I rectify them.

You might also want to look at Phil Wilson (seamount knife works). His hunting designs don’t interest me in the least but his skill is top tier. He uses steels most shy away from and pushes the known boundaries for geometry and heat treat.

I do have one of his filleting knives and it’s an absolute laser. I’m at work so not around the knife but from memory it’s .006” behind the edge. The flex is perfect and it goes through fish like a plasma cutter. There’s zero resistance, just push the knife where you want it to go and the flesh or bone is cut.




That wahoo was to big to fit in my kill tank so I had to use my bait knife to knock the fillets off.




I re-evaluated the situation after and decided I wouldn’t take the Wilson on the boat in case I dropped it so I bought a different filleting knife for offshore work.




The new knife while far from cheap can’t keep up with the Wilson. If it was my first exposure to a filleting knife after using the junk sold at cabelas I would think it was a laser but it’s to thick and has the wrong flex to clean fish with minimal effort like the Wilson. That’s not to knock it per sec, it’s still a good knife but not in the same league as one of Phil’s knives.

It still gets the job done




But even after a half doz small fish with no bone cutting it needed a trip to the stone for a touch up.
The Wilson has never lost an edge after cleaning a days catch like this




In fact that Wilson has never been dull which is testament to his steel choice and heat treat. More the heat treat because most of his fillet knives aren’t made from very exotic steel like his hunting knives often are. I’ve cut through many large ribs and filleted a lot of fish and never seen a micro chip and never has any part of the blade dulled. He’s a master at his craft.


Any of you around the salt I’ll put in a plug for LC200N steel. This is a year and a half split between a kayak and boat offshore with minimal fresh water rinses and zero oil or corrosion inhibitors. This steel can’t rust due to the nitrogen in it and it makes for a very enjoyable blade material to use offshore.







It takes a very nice edge and holds it well. The only chip is from me dropping it on concrete, it’s never chipped cutting fish or bone and I hammer it through frozen fish, cut through tuna spines and heads when I’m using them for chum etc. It’s a great steel for the application. You can tell from the photos it’s well used.

[obsessed1]

Coiloil, like you I micro analyze everything. If a tool doesn't work well why use it...for me a tool has to offer the least amount of wear and tear on my hands while using. Unlike the old days quatering an animal or even just skinning will wear my hands out before the job is completed so every bit of help my tool ( knife) will give me is a huge help.