I am hoping a farmer or someone in construction will know- stereo memory

Ken07AOVette · #1 10-17-2019, 03:33 PM

On heavy equipment when you shut off the main battery switch everything is dead. In my loader I have installed a new stereo to have bt for phone.
Every time I turn it on again I have to completely go through setup, including making it bright enough to even see. This means holding my coat over my head to block out sunlight. Not an issue if using at night, but during the day pitb.

In the old case 621b there was a little battery unit hooked to the stereo, but try as I might I cannot find any reference to these units, and I threw it out last year.

People have said run a wire to one of the batteries, very tough to do in this unit. Also run another battery and an isolator or diode, still kind of a bandaid.

Has anyone heard of these units?

I have seen the little 9v ones that plug into your cig lighter, not looking for that.

The other option is a stero with non volatile memory, but they are difficult to find too.

I wish I had kept that little box so I could look up the number. Case, Moodys, Agland have no idea.

The loader has a 24/12v convertor but it doesn't really help for this.

Drewski Canuck · #2 10-17-2019, 03:55 PM

Ken,

What you are describing is a "constant power" issue for the Stereo. Used to be that when installing a new deck with constant power that you would use the "power antenna wire", as it is constant power. Obviously, not on your wiring schematic.

If you are using a main battery cut off, there would be no way around it than to put a battery isolator to charge a second battery to power the constant power that your deck requires. Then, when you cut the main off, the slave stays active. When you put the main back on, the slave battery will be charged through the battery isolator going to the main.

Only way I can think of addressing this issue.

Drewski

Savage Bacon · #3 10-17-2019, 03:59 PM

Lots of equipment have a small ground wire running to the battery. This is for stereo memory and DEF pump functions that work when battery disconnect is in disconnect position.

raab · #4 10-17-2019, 04:18 PM

If you don’t want to rewire it this is what I’d do. You’ll need a cheap 12 volt power pack, and an old USB cable. Mount the power pack somewhere relatively easy to get to next to the radio. Take the USB cable and cut one end off, so that you can plug one end into the power pack, and have wires on the other. You need to keep the red and black wires on the USB, the rest can go. Now on your stereo one of the wires should be for the memory. You’ll need to know which wire it is. Hook the red USB wire to that, and the black one to the ground wire. Plug it into the power pack, before you turn off the main battery disconnect, and unplug it when running the tractor. You want the power pack in a generally easy to get to place so you can remove it and charge it. Your other option is to get a 12 volt charger for it and plug it in while your using the unit and the stereo is unplugged.

FTR Id just run a wire straight to the battery and be done with it. It’s probably a PITA, but better to do the job right once IMO.

Ken07AOVette · #5 10-17-2019, 04:42 PM

I agree with running a wire back, but wow yeah pitb.
(I have been told that saying it the other way results in complaints, apparently some members are offended by the other version of butt)

I am worried about cooking something in the loader, feedback is a real problem that I really do not want to have happen, being that everything in the loader is solid state.

The little backup unit was super handy, likely had a diode in it that secured against feeding back. I wish I could find a single reference to it.

peakseeker · #6 10-17-2019, 05:11 PM

does this unit not have a keep alive memory fuse? most case ag and construction units do but maybe not this old of unit?

Indy · #7 10-17-2019, 05:14 PM

An idea is here, see below. Not what you want but exactly replicates the box you threw out I assume? I wouldn't think it would be that hard to run one wire as I have done it on a lot of equipment but never dealt with your exact model.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projec...preset-memory/

Ken07AOVette · #8 10-17-2019, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by peakseeker

does this unit not have a keep alive memory fuse? most case ag and construction units do but maybe not this old of unit?

Not that I have found, the fuse panel is enormous but all is dead when the main is shut off.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Indy

An idea is here, see below. Not what you want but exactly replicates the box you threw out I assume? I wouldn't think it would be that hard to run one wire as I have done it on a lot of equipment but never dealt with your exact model.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projec...preset-memory/

I found that earlier, thought of doing that. Google doesn't bring up much.

Indy · #9 10-17-2019, 06:06 PM

I figured that you would have looked at that already. We have a similar situation and wanted to do similar but ended up running a wire, thought we found what you are looking for on google but can't find it now.

skidderman · #10 10-17-2019, 06:19 PM

Most stereo's have two wires. I just installed one in my cargo trailer. There are two power wires. One for constant power that would be shut off in your case when the master switch is shut off. On mine that colour is red. In addition there is a constant power or memory wire. In my case it is yellow. If you want your stereo memory then that yellow or memory wire needs to be connected direct to 12 volt power which is in most cases direct to the battery or the side of your shutoff switch that is power from the switch to the battery. If you are unsure what wire is the memory wire google your make, model and wiring diagram.

Tannerdog · #11 10-17-2019, 06:28 PM

X2. Run a small armored wire from the hot side of your shut off switch (or battery + if easier). Stereo has to have power to retain settings.

Rancid Crabtree · #12 10-17-2019, 07:17 PM

Usually the battery lock outs are to keep from draining battery or to reduce the risk of a fire while parked.
One idea is to run a wire with small fuse (5 amp or less) across the large cut out switch. This will provide a limited amount of power to the battery and still protects from fire because any larger load (short) will blow the fuse.

204ruger · #13 10-17-2019, 07:39 PM

Put your main cut out on ground side leave your power wiring as it is and run a small ground wire from radio to battery. When you cut ground everything but radio will go dead because it’s got a separate wire to the ground on battery.

tri777 · #14 10-17-2019, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken07AOVette

".. installed a new stereo..
Every time I turn it on again I have to completely go through setup.".

Was loader's stereo harness checked with volt meter for a constant 12v source when all was apart?

Ken07AOVette · #15 10-18-2019, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tri777

Was loader's stereo harness checked with volt meter for a constant 12v source when all was apart?

Yes, everything is completely dead with the main power switch off.

Apparently these things are super easy to steal. I have to get thr lock working on the panel where the kill switch is. Also, cooperators wont insure it, so.i have to make it as secure as possible.

tri777 · #16 10-18-2019, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken07AOVette

Yes, everything is completely dead with the main power switch off.

Somethings not right, what year is this loader?
Every single thing I have ever come across has a continuous 12v wire for memory purposes.

Ken07AOVette · #17 10-18-2019, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tri777

Somethings not right, what year is this loader?
Every single thing I have ever come across has a continuous 12v wire for memory purposes.

2010 New Holland

tri777 · #18 10-18-2019, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken07AOVette

On heavy equipment when you shut off the main battery switch everything is dead. .

Any reason the main battery switch has to shut off?
Is it a safety thing not to just turn off key & lock doors?

Ken07AOVette · #19 10-18-2019, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tri777

Any reason the main battery switch has to shut off?
Is it a safety thing not to just turn off key & lock doors?

Theft deterrent, safety (fire), no drain on batteries

Aaargh- I just killed a mosquito in my garage!!!!

sorry, derail

I lifted the rear rad covers, and it was full of broken glass. I think someone tried to take this unit at one point, locked glass door doesn't do much.
I am going to find the fuel pump fuse and remove it too. I can not insure the unit, Cooperators says 'it is too big for personal use'

KBF · #20 10-19-2019, 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken07AOVette

Theft deterrent, safety (fire), no drain on batteries

Aaargh- I just killed a mosquito in my garage!!!!

sorry, derail

I lifted the rear rad covers, and it was full of broken glass. I think someone tried to take this unit at one point, locked glass door doesn't do much.
I am going to find the fuel pump fuse and remove it too. I can not insure the unit, Cooperators says 'it is too big for personal use'

Perhaps may not have been tried to be stole. Lots of rocks going through windows when getting hauled on big trucks down the highway even. Id say this is more likely.

Savage Bacon · #21 10-19-2019, 08:10 AM

Did you run your small ground wire directly to the battery yet?

Ken07AOVette · #22 10-19-2019, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Savage Bacon

Did you run your small ground wire directly to the battery yet?

No

It's not like wiring a boat or car. The cab is a rollover protection device. This is no simple task on a loader

Rancid Crabtree · #23 10-19-2019, 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken07AOVette

No

It's not like wiring a boat or car. The cab is a rollover protection device. This is no simple task on a loader

Ken I would go to the main disconnect switch and install a small fused bypass across the switch.
This will give the whole system a small amount of power at all times and retain the radio memory. If a short happens or someone attempted to start it will blow the fuse.
Just a idea but I think it addresses your concern and is easy.

Savage Bacon · #24 10-19-2019, 09:41 AM

The disconnect switch usually cuts the ground, not the positive power. This is why we run a small ground wire to either the neg terminal of the battery, or the battery side of the cut off switch. And this would be to keep stereo memory or for DEF functions that are still active when the switch is in the disconnect position.

Ken07AOVette · #25 10-19-2019, 09:50 AM

Thanks guys. I am hoping to dig deeper this weekend.

I might install a fake cut out switch, hid the real one better to try and fool thieves. If they think the battery is dead they may hit the trail. I am also putting a wifi camera in the cab with a battery backup UPS so if someone does something stupid I will know right away. I am doing the same with the boat.

Ken07AOVette · #26 10-20-2019, 11:22 AM

You guys had me sweating, second and third guessing myself. I took out the stereo again, used a VOM and again, nothing with the mains off.
I then went to the 4 fuse blocks, checked every fuse, and again there is no power anywhere. Not even to the 24/12 convertor.
I will likely just buy a new non-vol memory stereo with bt so I don't have to reset every time. Admittedly it is not a huge deal, just resetting the screen so I can see it to use it, but when I am in it for hours at a time having the phone handsfree or a radio is beneficial to my sanity lol.
Anyone that has worked on these knows that running wires on an articulating unit is not like running one in a boat or tractor or semi. The entire cab is rollover protection, and I am not keen on drilling a hole through 1/4" steel just for a stereo.

Thanks for the help everyone, I just wish I had kept the old 'box' out of the other loader to search for it online.

tri777 · #27 10-20-2019, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken07AOVette

You guys had me sweating, second and third guessing myself. I took out the stereo again, used a VOM and again, nothing with the mains off.
I then went to the 4 fuse blocks, checked every fuse, and again there is no power anywhere. Not even to the 24/12 convertor.
I will likely just buy a new non-vol memory stereo with bt so I don't have to reset every time. Admittedly it is not a huge deal, just resetting the screen so I can see it to use it, but when I am in it for hours at a time having the phone handsfree or a radio is beneficial to my sanity lol.
Anyone that has worked on these knows that running wires on an articulating unit is not like running one in a boat or tractor or semi. The entire cab is rollover protection, and I am not keen on drilling a hole through 1/4" steel just for a stereo.

Thanks for the help everyone, I just wish I had kept the old 'box' out of the other loader to search for it online.

My neighbor had a 2014 NH tractor that had a phantom discharge somewhere that no technician could locate,
so after a few drained batteries they kept bandaging him with, I told him to have them install a main battery
kill switch. They installed it inside the cab and that was the end of his issue and the stereo was never affected.