Today's project - European mount

[hockeynut]

Boiled a nice mulie skull for a buddy today. Let the paste work it's magic for a few days and it'll be done.

[wildwoods]

There a couple hundred bucks saved. Well done!

[Burbotism]

Originally Posted by hockeynut

Boiled a nice mulie skull for a buddy today. Let the paste work it's magic for a few days and it'll be done.

Nice! What kind of paste are you using?

[hockeynut]

A magnesium carbonate powder mixed with hydrogen peroxide.

[Pioneer2]

AAA Taxidery supplies n Calgary by the airport.

[k.poholka]

Looks great. I used Salon grade peroxide and that works well. How do you plan on attaching it to the wood? I used gorilla epoxy but it didn't hold. (Back of the skull is too uneven) I was thinking about maybe using tie wire and just drilling some small holes in the wood backer piece?

[JimPaul]

How long do you let the paste sit on the skull before you rinse it off? And do you do it a few times?

[Cranker1985]

looks good! allways nice to save money on taxidermy

[hockeynut]

Originally Posted by k.poholka

Looks great. I used Salon grade peroxide and that works well. How do you plan on attaching it to the wood? I used gorilla epoxy but it didn't hold. (Back of the skull is too uneven) I was thinking about maybe using tie wire and just drilling some small holes in the wood backer piece?

Not sure what his plan is for displaying. If it were mine I'd use a skull hooker.

[hockeynut]

Originally Posted by JimPaul

How long do you let the paste sit on the skull before you rinse it off? And do you do it a few times?

Usually a couple days. Last year with my elk I left it on for two weeks. Didn't notice a major difference by leaving it that long. I only apply the paste once.

[MOAhunter]

I find that it's best to let the skull dry for at least a couple weeks before bleaching. They don't seem to turn a shade of light yellow if completely dry prior to bleach paste.
Of course if the skull does yellow in time you can always reapply the bleach paste.

[ex811]

Looks nice hockeynut. Pls post a pic when completed.

I use the 'hydrogen peroxide/cotton' method but have recently acquired some paste. I'd be interested to see how the skull you are cleaning turns out in comparison.

[Schatz]

Looks great mike


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[Pioneer2]

Should be applied to a wet cleaned of flesh skull.I use full length rubber gloves,face protection and a long sleeved garment you dont care about.Prior to this take the skull to the car wash and blast all the crevasses clean including nasal passages and brain cavity.When white enough and dry cut the back of the skull off at an angle to fit the angle you wish it to sit on the plaque . this will be filled with mixed automotive Bondo and a small piece of plywood pressed in for the screws to bite into through the back of the plaque. Horns must be fully covered where you don't want bleached to retain their natural color and electrician tape tight on the bases.............Harold

[Jays toyz]

I completed mine today. No bondo or skull cutting. Just a screw through the back of the board into the bottom of the skull near the spine. The is a thick part of the skull there that you predrill and use a 3" wood screw on.

[Bub]

^ Looks nice, indeed.

[Hammerhead]

That's a nice looking mount you have there hockeynut.
I am on my third euro mount. I've done a whitey, a moose and am working on an elk. I have been using the paste from Sally's beauty. Works pretty well. I still like a bit of natural color in the skull, so I don't bleach it completely white. I also mount them to the wall using the Skull Hooker brackets. My wife doesn't like the look of plaques, so that's what I had to use. To be honest at first I wasn't sure what to make of them, but since they've really grown on me. They're really well constructed and easy to mount. And if you're looking at buying them go to Wholesale Sports. Cabela's has the little and big hookers for $49.99 and $79.99 respectively. Wholesales price is $39.99 and $64.99. Having said that, both stores have them on sale right now... but Wholesales regular price still beats Cabela's sale price.
Merry Christmas everyone!

[Pioneer2]

What % is the "salon" grade the stuff I'm using is 35% ? It's Micheal Jackson approved Jasper to Casper in one treatment! Harold

[Sooner]

Originally Posted by Pioneer2

What % is the "salon" grade the stuff I'm using is 35% ? It's Micheal Jackson approved Jasper to Casper in one treatment! Harold

I bought my peroxide at the dollar store. Too bad they only sell the tiny bottles. Turned my elk skull nice and white.



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[Hammerhead]

Originally Posted by Pioneer2

What % is the "salon" grade the stuff I'm using is 35% ? It's Micheal Jackson approved Jasper to Casper in one treatment! Harold

I have been using 40. It takes a few applications. I also just bought some bleaching powder from there to kick it up a notch. We'll see how it goes.

[Bowtech1]

Looks good well done

[Buck du Nord]

Originally Posted by k.poholka

Looks great. I used Salon grade peroxide and that works well. How do you plan on attaching it to the wood? I used gorilla epoxy but it didn't hold. (Back of the skull is too uneven) I was thinking about maybe using tie wire and just drilling some small holes in the wood backer piece?

Like Jays said, a screw is ok for deer skull, but bigger than that, the best thing is to use wire, it is really solid !

[ishootbambi]

I think you might have missed a step there nut. If you boiled it and immediately went to the whitening stage, then you skipped degreasing. If you forgot to mention it ok, but if I read correct and you didn't do it, then it almost certainly will develop a problem down the road. I've seen the greasy spots develop anywhere from a couple days to a couple months after...but it'll happen. Otherwise, looks good.

[bb356]

Originally Posted by Jays toyz

I completed mine today. No bondo or skull cutting. Just a screw through the back of the board into the bottom of the skull near the spine. The is a thick part of the skull there that you predrill and use a 3" wood screw on.

Cool !!!

[Bill_K]

Not long ago I boiled the crap out of a wild boar skull, then used the bleaching paste that I got from a nearby beauty saloon. The teeth and tusks turned out fine but the grease stains remained on the skull.

Not long afterward, I mentioned this to a buddy of mine and he recommended using Kilz primer (you know, the stuff that you spray on an oil stain prior to repainting a wall).

I masked off the teeth and tusks and sprayed on the Kilz - it worked great, and the skull looks cool. Just watch the overspray and dripping with this stuff, though.

[calgarychef]

When you boil use a ladle and keep skimming the fat off the top of the water. It really helps to prevent the grease from cooking back into the bone, doesn't prevent it totally but a step in the right direction

[Triple droptine]

When you are mostly done boiling, can you add some dish soap to the water and boil it for a few hours to degrease? Or does it need to sit in soapy water for longer?

[hockeynut]

I boil with borax added to the water, helps break down grease and fat. Wash with pressure washer really good and a little more boiling again in fresh water and more borax. Mix up the paste and apply.