 |
10-13-2016, 09:34 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 406
|
|
Chasing the proverbial bullseye.
Worked up a load for the new Sako 7mmRM using IMR4831 and Hornadies new 162gr ELD-X. Getting 0.75MOA, shooting at 200 yards. What's the next thing to tighten that up? Bullet length? COAL. Right now I am sitting 0.020 off the lands.
Or should I start looking at runout? Weighing brass? All the above? Where would you start? I would like to get it down to 0.50MOA.
Thanks in advance!!!!!!!
|
10-13-2016, 09:45 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Ponoka
Posts: 1,870
|
|
Buy a better shooting rifle.
__________________
Younger horses, faster women, older money, more whiskey!
|
10-13-2016, 09:48 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 265
|
|
I'll bite. Bullet speed would be the first thing to would chase. Neck tension, annealing, neck turning. It's a game of how much time you want to put into it. Kind of fun
|
10-13-2016, 10:02 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 406
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by bucknaked333
I'll bite. Bullet speed would be the first thing to would chase. Neck tension, annealing, neck turning. It's a game of how much time you want to put into it. Kind of fun
|
It is fun. I have just ordered up my Chinese parts for building an annealer.
|
10-13-2016, 10:32 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Okotoks, Alberta
Posts: 88
|
|
Depends on what your goals are - since you're using ELD-X that tells me you're looking to reach out a bit - so follow this series
http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/0...erall-summary/
Sako is swimming up stream on accuracy unless tuned.
-Runout - important, keep within .003
-Weighing Brass - not important
-Precise CBTO - important (more for secant ogive)
-Search for your seating depth accuracy node 1st, then search for your charge accuracy node (Berger advice for their hunting bullets)
-Neck Size vs Full Length Resize - was never really sure on that one
-Annealing - Nice to reduce your ES if done right
-Slightly faster powders tend to be more accurate - not a hard rule - but it reduces muzzle exit pressure which can upset a bullet upon exit
Most important - be methodical, and keep your targets and load records in a log book.
Jay
Last edited by Jay Kyle; 10-13-2016 at 10:39 PM.
|
10-13-2016, 10:43 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Camrose
Posts: 45,155
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Kyle
Depends on what your goals are - since you're using ELD-X that tells me you're looking to reach out a bit - so follow this series
http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/0...erall-summary/
Sako is swimming up stream on accuracy unless tuned.
-Runout - important, keep within .003
-Weighing Brass - not important
-Precise CBTO - important (more for secant ogive)
-Search for your seating depth accuracy node 1st, then search for your charge accuracy node (Berger advice for their hunting bullets)
-Neck Size vs Full Length Resize - was never really sure on that one
-Annealing - Nice to reduce your ES if done right
-Slightly faster powders tend to be more accurate - not a hard rule - but it reduces muzzle exit pressure which can upset a bullet upon exit
Most important - make a plan, be methodical, and keep your targets and load records in a log book.
Jay |
Actually, I have shot Sako rifles that were very accurate from the factory with no work being required. As well, I have often found slower powders to produce the more accurate load.
In this case I would experiment with seating depth, and if that doesn't improve the accuracy, I would try another powder, and lastly another bullet. I find that I have more success letting the rifle tell me what it likes, than trying to force the rifle to shoot a certain load combination accurately.
__________________
Only accurate guns are interesting.
|
10-13-2016, 11:38 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: East Central Alberta
Posts: 8,315
|
|
I suspect that truely consistent 1/2MOA factory sporters in magnum calibers are somewhat rare, but if you have one, it will take meticulous hand-loading and a good rest system to reach its potential. Other than the good suggestions already made, practice is your friend.
|
10-14-2016, 08:50 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 776
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Kyle
Depends on what your goals are - since you're using ELD-X that tells me you're looking to reach out a bit - so follow this series
http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/0...erall-summary/
Sako is swimming up stream on accuracy unless tuned.
-Runout - important, keep within .003
-Weighing Brass - not important
-Precise CBTO - important (more for secant ogive)
-Search for your seating depth accuracy node 1st, then search for your charge accuracy node (Berger advice for their hunting bullets)
-Neck Size vs Full Length Resize - was never really sure on that one
-Annealing - Nice to reduce your ES if done right
-Slightly faster powders tend to be more accurate - not a hard rule - but it reduces muzzle exit pressure which can upset a bullet upon exit
Most important - be methodical, and keep your targets and load records in a log book.
Jay |
X2 on all neck sizeing very important.
|
10-14-2016, 08:51 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Okotoks, Alberta
Posts: 88
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by elkhunter11
.. I find that I have more success letting the rifle tell me what it likes, than trying to force the rifle to shoot a certain load combination accurately.
|
There's truth in that - sometimes it feels more like an art form than a science. That's why I backed off the 'Make a plan' .. as it can set you in a rigid path that may not be optimized and simply waste resources.
|
10-14-2016, 09:30 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: East Central Alberta
Posts: 8,315
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 wild cat
X2 on all neck sizeing very important.
|
Good quality dies are very important and as long as they are not pulling the necks out of alignment, both FL and NK sizing dies will work well. Not sure, but I think most top notch BR shooters FL size?
Once you get a bit deeper into reloading, with the right dies/tools, removing the expander ball/button can help reduce run-out.
I use both FL and NK sizers. I prefer the latter only because they are less work  .
|
10-14-2016, 09:47 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 406
|
|
I am using a Lee Collect neck sizing die, everybody seems to be happy with it. I have never checked runout but I think my next purchase is going to be a Sinclair runout gauge.
I am still using the cheap Lee scale so another purchase I am thinking about would be a Gempro 250 scale.
Brass I am using is on it's 4th reload so I want to get into annealing.
and on and on and on ......
I did notice something last weekend. I was shooting my 4th reload brass and was getting a flier in 3 shot groups. I went to 1 time shot brass and it tamed the flier down, which is why I want to anneal.
I am using the Hornady OAL gauge which measures from the ogive, as apposed to the tip of the bullet. Also used the hornady tool to measure to my lands using the eld-x's. Which I found more consistent than loading brass and a light fitting bullet into the chamber.
|
10-14-2016, 10:23 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 907
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by 260 Rem
Good quality dies are very important and as long as they are not pulling the necks out of alignment, both FL and NK sizing dies will work well. Not sure, but I think most top notch BR shooters FL size?
Once you get a bit deeper into reloading, with the right dies/tools, removing the expander ball/button can help reduce run-out.
I use both FL and NK sizers. I prefer the latter only because they are less work . |
Yes, most top BR shooters FL resize. German Salazar explains it the best i've read. He did a very in depth test on this. Full length sizing while bumping the shoulder back only as far as necessary for chambering a case gave the most consistent MV. NK sizing has the inconsistency where the brass is always changing slightly. Eventually you need to push the shoulder back anyway.
|
10-14-2016, 11:23 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: three hills
Posts: 801
|
|
I tried the neck sizing Lee die on my 7 mmRM and had to bump shoulders after 2 firings so I went back to FL sizing ,I would say if your happy with the speed and you are using same batch of brass I would try the H20 case capacity sorting.It is a cheap & slow process but it does tighten groups a bit.
Good Luck
|
10-14-2016, 09:33 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 265
|
|
I built a Chinese annealer a couple months ago also. Maybe 120$. I works great. The price of some brass these days is getting expensive so if a guy can get a couple extra rounds out of brass it's worth it.
Last edited by bucknaked333; 10-14-2016 at 09:48 PM.
|
10-14-2016, 11:07 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Lacombe, AB
Posts: 484
|
|
I worked with a 7RM for a while a few years back, and an accuracy tip I got (can't remember where from) was to headspace off the shoulder, not off the
belt. That way, you can always be sure that the bullet is always precisely centered in the chamber, same as the non-belted cartridges are.
|
10-15-2016, 07:26 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 406
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by bucknaked333
I built a Chinese annealer a couple months ago also. Maybe 120$. I works great. The price of some brass these days is getting expensive so if a guy can get a couple extra rounds out of brass it's worth it.
|
Nice. That is basically what I will be doing as well except with a cake pan. I like your idea with the pressure gauge. How do you like that?
|
10-15-2016, 07:37 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 265
|
|
I like it. I was surprised how much the pressure changes in 100 casing. I. Switched to mapp gas and it speeds up the annealing time lots.
|
10-15-2016, 04:03 PM
|
|
Banned
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: High River, AB
Posts: 10,788
|
|
James 1, within your posts you never mentioned your trigger. Before looking at loading changes, how is your trigger? Does it break cleanly at mere ounces? An important factor in precision shooting.
Another factor which may seem trivial to many. Do you remove the swivel studs so that the rifle recoil smoothly off the bags? Swivel studs alter the rearward slide on the bags besides being somewhat destructive.
Last edited by gitrdun; 10-15-2016 at 04:11 PM.
|
10-15-2016, 04:05 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 406
|
|
Thanks gitrdun. 1.75lbs.
|
10-15-2016, 04:12 PM
|
|
Banned
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: High River, AB
Posts: 10,788
|
|
Ah James, I edited my post to add another tidbit after your reply. 😊
|
10-15-2016, 04:30 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 406
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by gitrdun
James 1, within your posts you never mentioned your trigger. Before looking at loading changes, how is your trigger? Does it break cleanly at mere ounces? An important factor in precision shooting.
Another factor which may seem trivial to many. Do you remove the swivel studs so that the rifle recoil smoothly off the bags? Swivel studs alter the rearward slide on the bags besides being somewhat destructive.
|
Very good point. I never thought of that. I always kept my rear swivel behind the bag, I will definitely remove them next time out.
|
10-15-2016, 05:12 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 166
|
|
Gempro 250 + redding competition dies
|
10-15-2016, 05:52 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 406
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by newhunterjp
Gempro 250 + redding competition dies
|
Hmmm. You sound a lot like another friend of mine. So if I bought these would I trade off my rifle for a 300wm
Just talking with a fella. Gempro 250 is on for 237.00 on amazon.ca
Last edited by James 1; 10-15-2016 at 06:01 PM.
|
10-15-2016, 06:20 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 406
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by qwert
|
Wow even better. Thanks
|
10-15-2016, 06:53 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Hudson On
Posts: 639
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by James 1
Worked up a load for the new Sako 7mmRM using IMR4831 and Hornadies new 162gr ELD-X. Getting 0.75MOA, shooting at 200 yards. What's the next thing to tighten that up? Bullet length? COAL. Right now I am sitting 0.020 off the lands.
Or should I start looking at runout? Weighing brass? All the above? Where would you start? I would like to get it down to 0.50MOA.
Thanks in advance!!!!!!!
|
.
Not withstanding good shooting .
.
I think you are just bragging about 3/8 inch group at 100 yds.
__________________
Buy the best cry once .
Buy cheap cry every day .
|
10-15-2016, 07:29 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 406
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by 222rem
.
Not withstanding good shooting .
.
I think you are just bragging about 3/8 inch group at 100 yds.
|
Take another look 222rem. I said. 75MOA not inches. Which is 3/4 inch at 100, not 3/8th. If I could get 3/8ths of an inch. I would be a happy camper.
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:03 PM.
|
Linear Mode
