|
02-23-2019, 09:30 AM
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: eastern prairies
Posts: 36
|
|
stripping a wood stock
Hi everyone I have a savage 110 in 308 and I would like to take the coating/finish off the stock . I am not into that plastic look more into a oiled finish.
What would you use that would remove the finish without having to sand the crap out of it.
|
02-23-2019, 09:40 AM
|
Banned
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: south calgary
Posts: 2,281
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdnrokon
Hi everyone I have a savage 110 in 308 and I would like to take the coating/finish off the stock . I am not into that plastic look more into a oiled finish.
What would you use that would remove the finish without having to sand the crap out of it.
|
I used furniture stripper on my cooey 600 then had to sand it a bit, the stripper worked ok on the checkering but could not be sanded so it is a bit darker that the ne finish but ni by much
|
02-23-2019, 09:40 AM
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Alberta
Posts: 4,279
|
|
Circa 1850. Use a soft brass brush on the checkered areas.
|
02-23-2019, 10:45 AM
|
Banned
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: West of the 5th
Posts: 954
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by double gun
Circa 1850. Use a soft brass brush on the checkered areas.
|
The best there is. Finish it off with 25 coats of tung oil
|
02-23-2019, 10:57 AM
|
Banned
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,158
|
|
Brownells certistrip works on the hard high gloss enamel type finishes. Like the BDL, weatherby or Browning. Apply it liberally and stick the stock in a garbage bag so it doesn't dry too quick. Then use the edge of a putty knife to scrape it off, and a tooth brush on the checkering. And wear gloves as some of this stuff is nasty.
|
02-23-2019, 11:28 AM
|
Banned
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: south calgary
Posts: 2,281
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by double gun
Circa 1850. Use a soft brass brush on the checkered areas.
|
Same process i used with the stripper, checkering still came out darker, use the tip of an iron on a wet rag over the dents, they come right out. As others said, tung oil is great as a finish
|
02-23-2019, 12:08 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: East
Posts: 2,065
|
|
Yup circa 1850 bristle brush and a light scraper is the best way I have found. Let the stripper sit for a second and let it work. When it has stopped working carefully scrape it off.
__________________
HOLD ON FUR!
For my coyote pics @trophy_country_coyotes on instagram
life's too short to fish nymphs
|
02-23-2019, 11:34 PM
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: East of the big smoke
Posts: 1,496
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by trophybook
The best there is. Finish it off with 25 coats of tung oil
|
Yep that all I use, I'm a tactile guy and the feel of a oiled stock cant be beat.
|
02-24-2019, 12:08 PM
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: eastern prairies
Posts: 36
|
|
stripping a wood stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsmitty27
Yep that all I use, I'm a tactile guy and the feel of a oiled stock cant be beat.
|
do you cut the oil with a thinner for the first few coats or do you use it straight out of the can?
|
02-24-2019, 12:55 PM
|
Banned
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: West of the 5th
Posts: 954
|
|
No thinning. After your second coat start wet sanding with the oil then wipe off excess oil and let dry for 24 hrs and repeat about 20+ times and the depth of finish will amaze you. 600 grit is good then 1200 for the last 2 coats.
I'm redoing a very old savage 24 at the moment.
|
02-24-2019, 01:33 PM
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: eastern prairies
Posts: 36
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by trophybook
No thinning. After your second coat start wet sanding with the oil then wipe off excess oil and let dry for 24 hrs and repeat about 20+ times and the depth of finish will amaze you. 600 grit is good then 1200 for the last 2 coats.
I'm redoing a very old savage 24 at the moment.
|
boiled linseed or tung oil?
|
02-24-2019, 01:41 PM
|
Banned
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: West of the 5th
Posts: 954
|
|
Tung oil is what I use. But if you have a blonde stock you want darker use danish oil. Antique oil is nice too
|
02-24-2019, 02:00 PM
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: eastern prairies
Posts: 36
|
|
it is a very light wood maybe birch?
|
02-24-2019, 02:22 PM
|
Banned
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: West of the 5th
Posts: 954
|
|
Correct. Danish would darken birch up and enhance the figure if it has any.
|
02-24-2019, 04:25 PM
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 3,221
|
|
You can use acetone to strip it. Has the side benefit of you getting a bit loopy... There's also citristrip. Or you can buy delemonine/citrus cleaners from places like home depot.
As for oil, you can do many different things. Danish and other oils like tung oil work. Minwax has some good products as well.
I've always used 0000 steel wool between layers of finish.
|
02-24-2019, 10:05 PM
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: East of the big smoke
Posts: 1,496
|
|
To get it the smoothest you can, De-whisker the stock.
before you add oil get stock wet, then heat. It will create whiskers that can be smoothed out with a synthetic steel wool. Repeat until it's as smooth as possible. Then wet sand with tung oil with increasing grit.
|
02-24-2019, 10:06 PM
|
Banned
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Edmonton Area/Candle Lake SK
Posts: 208
|
|
There are a 100 finishes out there that provide far more protection then boiled linseed oil.
Do you research.
Tung oil or similar are great products.
|
03-06-2019, 04:52 PM
|
Banned
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,158
|
|
|
07-24-2019, 06:51 PM
|
Banned
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: West of the 5th
Posts: 954
|
|
All you need to know
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:35 AM.
|