Drywall for the basement

[JKEB]

Unfortunately my basement will be getting a renovation this winter due to some water damage. So here I come for a little more advise and direction.

Our older home was 100% wood panelling (4'x8'x1/8") and with the way the insurance guy was talking it looks the they'll pay to replace it all so it matches.

We are going to take the insurance payout when it comes and do the majority of the work ourselves. But that means we have the option of switching to drywall, which is NOT my forte.

So my question is, What is your experience in the cost of having drywall installed per linear foot (hung, mud, taped, sanded etc. 8' ceiling)? Edmonton area if that matters. Panelling looks like $10-15 per linear foot for material plus my time which is free. Painting the drywall is a non factor because my time is free and materials cost is low.

Obviously the aesthetics will be much different but that's a decision we will have to make when comparing the costs. I will gladly accept any thought and advice!

[Twisted Canuck]

How is your access to basement? Can you get longer board down (12')....?

I'm not sure what pricing is like in Edmonton, but if I'm looking at a basement Reno job here in GP it's will probably be around $2.25 per square foot of board, installed and finished with a knockdown texture ceiling. Not sure what you mean when you are saying linear foot cost, but Drywall is usually priced out by board foot (square foot). For instance, say your basement is 1000' square foot space, you would have approximately 3500 ± board feet of drywall depending on layout, how many rooms, closets etc....with ceilings finished. At $2.25 a foot, you are looking at $7875 +gst all in for material, labour, clean up. You supply dumpster for that.

New construction is less, but with a Reno there is a lot more work in draping everything off so your whole house and ducts don't get full of dust. For the record, drywall price has gone way up in the last 5 years, as well as mud, paint, texture, poly....everything.

Hope that doesn't wreck your day. You may get it done cheaper in the city, just make sure whoever you get has a reputation for service and quality. Living with a lousy job that is poorly done and takes weeks and weeks to do....isn't worth saving a few hundre bucks.

Good luck if you go that route.

[W921]

So you already have water damage and now your thinking of drywall?
I would think drywall would be worst option because of future water, moisture damage.
Is the basement finished? Is it a newer basement made with Styrofoam blocks with concrete in them? Do you have electrical wires on the walls?

[Grizzly Adams]

Originally Posted by W921

So you already have water damage and now your thinking of drywall?
I would think drywall would be worst option because of future water, moisture damage.
Is the basement finished? Is it a newer basement made with Styrofoam blocks with concrete in them? Do you have electrical wires on the walls?

If the water issue has been dealt with, no reason to write off drywall. Definitely the most neutral wall finish.

Grizz

[ZJHoban]

Originally Posted by Twisted Canuck

How is your access to basement? Can you get longer board down (12')....?

I'm not sure what pricing is like in Edmonton, but if I'm looking at a basement Reno job here in GP it's will probably be around $2.25 per square foot of board, installed and finished with a knockdown texture ceiling. Not sure what you mean when you are saying linear foot cost, but Drywall is usually priced out by board foot (square foot). For instance, say your basement is 1000' square foot space, you would have approximately 3500 ± board feet of drywall depending on layout, how many rooms, closets etc....with ceilings finished. At $2.25 a foot, you are looking at $7875 +gst all in for material, labour, clean up. You supply dumpster for that.

New construction is less, but with a Reno there is a lot more work in draping everything off so your whole house and ducts don't get full of dust. For the record, drywall price has gone way up in the last 5 years, as well as mud, paint, texture, poly....everything.

Hope that doesn't wreck your day. You may get it done cheaper in the city, just make sure whoever you get has a reputation for service and quality. Living with a lousy job that is poorly done and takes weeks and weeks to do....isn't worth saving a few hundre bucks.

Good luck if you go that route.

Good post. Pricing will be similar in Calgary.
As stated by Twisted, don't take the lowest bid unless they have a good reputation. 5% - 10% price increase may save you a big headache chasing the trade for small touch ups

[JKEB]

Thanks for the replies. That’s the answer I was looking for. I should have know the drywall was calculated in square feet. Nothing will be repaired inside until the water issues are dealt with. But it’s looking like redoing panelling myself at 30-60% of the cost.

[Twisted Canuck]

Yep, paneling is for sure cheaper, and you don't have to paint it either.....

[owlhoot]

Paneling over 3/8" or 1/2" drywall, just stagger the joints and you have a good solid wall and no need to mud and tape

[Big Grey Wolf]

Also a short term water problem over in few hours may not damage paneling.
Drywall just wicks moisture into the wall.

[calgarychef]

Originally Posted by owlhoot

Paneling over 3/8" or 1/2" drywall, just stagger the joints and you have a good solid wall and no need to mud and tape

That’s a good idea, I. I gut be tempted to use plywood so I could hang heads wherever I want.

[EZM]

The other thing to consider is hanging the drywall is the easy part. Anyone who pays attention and takes pride in their work can do it well enough.

The taping/mudding …..…….. well …………. that really is an art. You can really tell if this was a "homeowner job" versus a pro - particularly on a flat ceiling.

If you are doing drywall, Hang it yourself, and get a professional taper - otherwise you will be looking at it for the next 20 years and kicking yourself.

[Twisted Canuck]

Originally Posted by EZM

The other thing to consider is hanging the drywall is the easy part. Anyone who pays attention and takes pride in their work can do it well enough.

The taping/mudding …..…….. well …………. that really is an art. You can really tell if this was a "homeowner job" versus a pro - particularly on a flat ceiling.

If you are doing drywall, Hang it yourself, and get a professional taper - otherwise you will be looking at it for the next 20 years and kicking yourself.

Really, speaking as someone who has been finishing drywall for 20+ years....dont hang it yourself if you don't know what you are doing.

I have had lots of homeowners call me to finish their basement, and are just tickled and proud about the job they did hanging the board....and invariably it is just crap, and a bunch of work for me to fix. Huge holes around electrical boxes because they can't run a router or a tape measure, massive gaps you can throw a cat through, broken board, screws not properly set (and by that I mean ALL the screws are hanging out, or punched through the paper), butt joints in all the wrong places and 50 too many of them...

I generally tell people to go ahead and hang it if they want, but my price to finish their boarding job is the same price as if I install board and finish it for them.

Some jobs are so bad I just tell people I'm not interested and walk away. Let them fix their own mess. Just think of all the money you saved....

I have only had two jobs in 20 some years that were actually pretty good. And both of them had trade experience, asked advice, took their time, and did ok.

What a homeowner thinks is 'a pretty good job' is never a good job from the perspective of the poor bugger who has to spend twice as much time fixing it up. My rule of thumb is, if the boarding job is such that I spend all day muttering the F word under my breath (or right out loud), I'm charging you double for my trouble. Otherwise known as the PITA Surcharge. And I always hope the homeowner is appalled at my price and doesn't want me to do it, because I sure don't want to.

[CNP]

Options...

Hang the drywall and tape, mud and finish yourself. Ceilings are the most bothersome, instead of drywall on the ceiling, consider 1 X 6 T&G pine/fir/cedar.

[Twisted Canuck]

Yes, what he said...^......hang the board and finish it yourself.

[Grizzly Adams]

Originally Posted by CNP

Options...

Hang the drywall and tape, mud and finish yourself. Ceilings are the most bothersome, instead of drywall on the ceiling, consider 1 X 6 T&G pine/fir/cedar.

Suspended ceiling is inexpensive and allows access to the plumbing.

Grizz