Anyone using mechanicals for Elk or moose?

[shootermcgavin]

Looking to buy some new Broadhead. I've been using g5 montec but have not been overly impressed with blood tattoos. I am considering going to a mechanical, like the wax em 3 blade mechanical... I keep reading that fixed is the way to go with Elk but wanted to see if anyone is using mechanicals and what ones?

[Lefty-Canuck]

Grim Reaper 100gr Razor Tip, killed 4 elk 4 years in a row now and a couple of mule deer too. 40 yard pass through on an elk works for me.

Between myself and two friends we are around 30+ animals with no failures, watch most of the animals drop. Deer, moose and elk.

Results speak for themselves.

LC

[shootermcgavin]

Thank you.

[Lefty-Canuck]

The key is to make sure you have 60-65KE MINIMUM as that's what is required to have these open reliably, if you are lower than that KE value you should stay with fixed blades.

LC

[Scottmisfits]

I shoot the GrimReapaers chisel tips and have seen the job they do. I have no problems recommending them to anyone.

This year I'm going to try out the GraveDigger hybrid mechanical/fixed blade in chisel tip. They have great reviews and I like the idea of the fixed in case of the unlikely event, given the mechanicals I have now, fail to open.

[Lefty-Canuck]

Originally Posted by Scottmisfits

I shoot the GrimReapaers chisel tips and have seen the job they do. I have no problems recommending them to anyone.

This year I'm going to try out the GraveDigger hybrid mechanical/fixed blade in chisel tip. They have great reviews and I like the idea of the fixed in case of the unlikely event, given the mechanicals I have now, fail to open.

Grim Reaper has a Hybrid head as well.

LC

[Scottmisfits]

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

Grim Reaper has a Hybrid head as well.

LC

I wasn't aware of that. I may have to look in to them as well. I haven't seen them locally and just looked at their website to find more info on them.

[shootermcgavin]

I think I will order the Grim Reaper Razor tip as you recommended. My dad is coming with me and requires some broad heads for his crossbow. I noticed that grim reaper has a broad head specifically for the crossbows but I have read that crossbows can use broad heads for compound bows as well.. rather than ordering the crossbow version of the razor tip do you think I should just order more of the Grim Reaper Razor tips so we are all using the same broad heads? That's what I am thinking but don't want to make a mistake there as we are unfamiliar with what would be a good broad head for the crossbows.

[Lefty-Canuck]

The x-bow specific heads have a stiffer spring that resist opening prior to impact.

Best to use x-bow heads with x-bows and regular heads with regular bows.

LC

[jcrayford]

Use 2 brands of mechanicals. Both work exceptionally well, hitting right along side my field points - however, I'm pulling 72# @ 30", with a finished arrow weight of 525-550 grains.

Been shooting Rocket Steelheads for almost 20 years now (they are getting hard to find) and recently (10 years ago) also started carrying Grim Reaper Whitetail specials. The Whitetail specials aren't bias though.... They fly through Elk and Mule Deer too ha ha ha...

Both GR and Steelheads have pass through or gone to the other side in all cases. Worst I've had was through an Elk, Steelhead BH punched through offside shoulder blade and protruded through the hide (still brought down the Elk) - had to replace 1 blade and sharpen another. GR went through a Mule buck and smashed the offside front shoulder socket - only had to replace one blade. In both cases though, those BH's mentioned above turned into small game heads (too much respect for game animals to risk a ferrule breaking)

Like all archery equipment, most of the luck deals with the shooter placing the arrow in the correct spot. But with my setup, Murphy and his law are somewhat reduced (but not gone altogether).

Granted, there are some others I would have liked to try, but when these work so well for me, why change? The only reason I'm going to change is because I can't find them anymore.

J.

[Prdtrgttr]

We use Wasp Jak Hammers 1 3/4" cut, they are one of the early mechanicals made. Their blades are one of the thicker ones for mechanicals. Jaks are of a very similar design to the GR but use a stout elastic O ring for blade retention. Our hunting group has shot everything from bears to hogs, to antelope to elk, always with similar results...big holes, prolific and short blood trails.
Good luck to you.

[Deer Hunter]

X2 on jackhammers. Great broadhead

[Passthru]

I'll be using grim reapers on moose and whitetail this year. I'll let you know how they work.

[IronNoggin]

A good Buddy of mine is a PH in South Africa, Nambia and Zimbabwe. He often caters to bow hunters. It was on his advice that I originally went to 125 grain NAP Spitfire broadheads for use on big game here. They have been completely effective, quickly taking down every critter they have been sent through.

Although I have tried others (at the range) since, I find I am always going back to the tried, tested and true (for me) Spitfires.

Cheers,
Nog

[Stinky Buffalo]

Grim Reapers for me as well... Although all I have done with them so far is take them for what essentially ends up being long walks in the woods...

Had an issue with the first batch I bought (missing pieces, IIRC) - I received superb support from the manufacturer in resolving the issue.

[coyotekiller]

Originally Posted by IronNoggin

A good Buddy of mine is a PH in South Africa, Nambia and Zimbabwe. He often caters to bow hunters. It was on his advice that I originally went to 125 grain NAP Spitfire broadheads for use on big game here. They have been completely effective, quickly taking down every critter they have been sent through.

Although I have tried others (at the range) since, I find I am always going back to the tried, tested and true (for me) Spitfires.

Cheers,
Nog

x2 on spitfires. I have been using both spitfires and NAP killzones. Both broad heads work great

[gophanator]

Me and my dad used to use grim reapers, killed 1 moose, 2 elk, and 6 or so deer with them and I had 1 fail on me even though it was all set up properly so we have both switched now to rage.

I use the rage hypodermics now and have shot 1 moose, 1 elk, and 2 whitetails with them and I love the hypodermics and won't switch. The hole they make and the blood trail is unreal, all 4 animals have had a 4" or bigger hole in them with the hypodermics.

[shootermcgavin]

Do grim Reaper razor tip come with a practice head? A guy at work said that they do but I don't see it advertised anywhere

[Lefty-Canuck]

Originally Posted by shootermcgavin

Do grim Reaper razor tip come with a practice head? A guy at work said that they do but I don't see it advertised anywhere

Yes they do, the pro packs come with 4 actual heads.

LC

[shootermcgavin]

What's the best way to figure out the KE? It's a 70# bow set at about 65#, unsure of arrow weight (gold tip Hunter) 29 + inches draw length.

[Lefty-Canuck]

Originally Posted by shootermcgavin

What's the best way to figure out the KE? It's a 70# bow set at about 65#, unsure of arrow weight (gold tip Hunter) 29 + inches draw length.

Need to run it over a chronograph and calculate the "real world" value. Those specs should have you over 65KE.

LC

[wcbarker]

I have used rage for 10 years and have had no problem. shot elk moose bear antelope deer u name it I have shot it.

[The moose]

Hey lefty,
Have you used the fatal steel heads from grim reaper? I also shoot grims (love them) and am going to need some new ones this year. Considering trying them out.

[Lefty-Canuck]

Originally Posted by The moose

Hey lefty,
Have you used the fatal steel heads from grim reaper? I also shoot grims (love them) and am going to need some new ones this year. Considering trying them out.

No I haven't, but I did try out the Carnifours last year. They worked well (shot my mule deer with them) and shot well but I prefer the trocar tip over the machined tip. I found the machine tips a bit brittle. The fatal steel and Carnifours also have a stiffer retention spring to allow for x-bow use. The original Razor Tips are my goto IMHO.

LC

[Twisted Canuck]

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

Need to run it over a chronograph and calculate the "real world" value. Those specs should have you over 65KE.

LC

Once you know your arrow weight, and run it through a chrono to get speed, your KE is just a click away....

http://archerycalculator.com/archery...um-calculator/

For instance, I run a 385 gr arrow at 300 fps....gives me just shy of 77 KE. Bu I still like my G5 Montecs.

[58thecat]

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

The key is to make sure you have 60-65KE MINIMUM as that's what is required to have these open reliably, if you are lower than that KE value you should stay with fixed blades.

LC

Not to stir the pot or anything but you know as I do that people fling arrows at some far distances, what is the energy out at 50 plus yards? Enough to operate the mechanical mechanism etc?

My choice has and will be fixed not that I go out past 30 yards.

I watched a show the other day where a mechanical opened during flight and it change the arrows trajectory...that really sucked too

If you add more variables to possibly fail...it may catch up sooner than later...180" gagger...gone

[The moose]

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

No I haven't, but I did try out the Carnifours last year. They worked well (shot my mule deer with them) and shot well but I prefer the trocar tip over the machined tip. I found the machine tips a bit brittle. The fatal steel and Carnifours also have a stiffer retention spring to allow for x-bow use. The original Razor Tips are my goto IMHO.

LC

Thanks for the input. I also had the same feelings about them. I have used the razorcuts and felt they worked very well on deer. would be more concerned with the tip bending or snapping on heavier section bone of a elk or moose.

[Lefty-Canuck]

Originally Posted by 58thecat

Not to stir the pot or anything but you know as I do that people fling arrows at some far distances, what is the energy out at 50 plus yards? Enough to operate the mechanical mechanism etc?

My choice has and will be fixed not that I go out past 30 yards.

I watched a show the other day where a mechanical opened during flight and it change the arrows trajectory...that really sucked too

If you add more variables to possibly fail...it may catch up sooner than later...180" gagger...gone

My setup has around 77-79KE, and it punched the arrow diagonally through a bull elk at 40 yards. I know it has enough ommpff at distance to do the job. I also don't like to take shots past 40 while hunting, unless I already have a hole in the animal.

LC

[jcrayford]

See my opinions below

Originally Posted by 58thecat

Not to stir the pot or anything but you know as I do that people fling arrows at some far distances, what is the energy out at 50 plus yards? Enough to operate the mechanical mechanism etc? Yep, enough to blow through a 185" Mule Buck last fall

My choice has and will be fixed not that I go out past 30 yards. Sometimes you have no other choice

I watched a show the other day where a mechanical opened during flight and it change the arrows trajectory...that really sucked too Lots of evidence of fixed blades not hitting the spot each and every time

If you add more variables to possibly fail...it may catch up sooner than later...180" gagger...gone Hasn't caught up to me in 20+ years of using mechanicals. Haven't hit an animal every one of the 20+ years (my own fault) but has never bit me yet

Some like chocolate, some like vanilla.

Again, those highlighted in red are my OPINIONS and may not reflect everyone else's thoughts..... read my signature.

J.

[Twisted Canuck]

Mechanicals and fixed blade broadheads....kind of like The Troubles in Ulster. 'Are ye Catholic er Protestant?'......