Zastava Rifles - Page 2

Tactical Lever · #31 06-22-2019, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuck

What brands are you talking about?

Brno/CZ, Ruger, Zastava for the small actions (and big), Winchester for the bigger Safari Grade guns. Don't recall whether that included smaller chamberings.

I'm probably missing some, but can't think of which right now. And not including the boutique guns. Being as those are kind of semi custom as is.

Pathfinder76 · #32 06-22-2019, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tactical Lever

Brno/CZ, Ruger, Zastava for the small actions (and big), Winchester for the bigger Safari Grade guns. Don't recall whether that included smaller chamberings.

I'm probably missing some, but can't think of which right now. And not including the boutique guns. Being as those are kind of semi custom as is.

The picture is of a Mauser.

Tactical Lever · #33 06-22-2019, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuck

To the OP,

Buy a Ruger or better yet a Winchester 10x the stock, 10x the safety, 10x bottom metal, and I prefer the trigger.

K... Winchester might have a better finished stock, but I don't see too much high end wood coming from the regular grade guns. I'd say that I see stuff with nicer figure coming from Zastava.

Winchesters still have a painted aluminum floor plate, as far as I know. Just wondering how that's supposed to be ten times nicer?

Winchesters do have nice triggers, but as mentioned, Dean adjusted his to very nice. Maybe a pound nicer even?

I'll give you the safety. Pretty hard to beat the 3 position safety of the Winchesters. Especially comparing to the tang safety. Don't recall if Zastava offered anything nicer.

Tactical Lever · #34 06-22-2019, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuck

The picture is of a Mauser.

Forgot about them! lol! Already kind of a high dollar rifle, though. If you are wanting to customize, and changing out the wood, wouldn't the advantage go to the gun that costs $1000 less to begin with?

wolf308 · #35 06-23-2019, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tactical Lever

Ever consider putting on a nice "grind to fit"? With a saw, some tape, a measure, a marker, and an orbital sander, even a hack like I can trim a little wood, smooth it out and custom fit a pad.

One day I'll pick up a "dangerous game" Zastava. Already got some dies waiting in the wings!

Ah nope , never thought of it

Sounds like a lot of work

Tactical Lever · #36 06-23-2019, 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wolf308

Ah nope , never thought of it

Sounds like a lot of work

It's not that bad actually. If you use tape to protect the stock, you don't have to do any refinishing. If you were refinishing already, it wouldn't matter. Using the orbital sander makes it pretty quick. If I didn't have one I would be a lot less likely to do projects like that.

As far as shortening it, I only mention that as it's a pretty long length of pull already, and adding a thick pad is likely to make it too long for most.

Dean2 · #37 06-23-2019, 11:44 AM

I like that they make the stocks extra long. I shortened all the ones I got. Mark them, use a Japanese Pull saw and you can get a perfect job in about 5 minutes. Then put the new pad on and grind to fit, orbital or belt saner will both work. I do the initial grinding off the gun and just do the finish fit with it attached. Total time to do the work about 1 hour.

qwert · #38 06-23-2019, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dean2

Isnip
Then put the new pad on and grind to fit, orbital or belt saner will both work. I do the initial grinding off the gun and just do the finish fit with it attached. Total time to do the work about 1 hour.

Do you freeze the installed rough fitted pad and stock before finish fit grinding?

Dean2 · #39 06-23-2019, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by qwert

Do you freeze the installed rough fitted pad and stock before finish fit grinding?

Nope, tried that but found it doesn't stay frozen very long (between the heat from my hands and the heat from grinding) and it didn't seem to give me the nice smooth finish I wanted. Found using water and wet dry sand paper did a much better job on the finish grind. Rough grind I just use 60 grit paper, it takes it off pretty fast.

qwert · #40 06-23-2019, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dean2

Nope, tried that but found it doesn't stay frozen very long (between the heat from my hands and the heat from grinding) and it didn't seem to give me the nice smooth finish I wanted. Found using water and wet dry sand paper did a much better job on the finish grind. Rough grind I just use 60 grit paper, it takes it off pretty fast.

Thanks, my experience is similar. Always looking for better methods and procedures.

Good Luck, YMMV.

PartTimeHunter · #41 06-23-2019, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dean2

I like that they make the stocks extra long. I shortened all the ones I got. Mark them, use a Japanese Pull saw and you can get a perfect job in about 5 minutes. Then put the new pad on and grind to fit, orbital or belt saner will both work. I do the initial grinding off the gun and just do the finish fit with it attached. Total time to do the work about 1 hour.

Never heard this term before - what is it?

Pathfinder76 · #42 06-23-2019, 02:13 PM

https://www.amazon.ca/SUIZAN-Japanes...04709021&psc=1

Pathfinder76 · #43 06-23-2019, 02:22 PM

I saw pictures of a Heym rifle mid stock shortening with a scroll saw in an African Safari camp. Ralph Martini was doing the work. A skilled craftsman can do amazing work with rudimentary tools.

I also had D’Arcy Echols tell me a story about repairing a PH’s rifle in a similar camp in Africa. I wish I had written down the details.

Dean2 · #44 06-23-2019, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PartTimeHunter

Never heard this term before - what is it?

There are a few advantages to this type of saw for doing fine wood working. The saw face is perfectly flat, like a cross cut saw but the blade is much thinner and they come in a large variety of teeth per inch. A fine tooth saw that only cuts on the pull stroke all along its face is very easy to cut a straight line with that is also perfectly perpendicular through the cut. There are two type of Japanese Pull cut saw, one like posted with an angled saw face and straight handle and another with a perfectly flat saw face and an offset handle. For shortening gun stocks you want the second version.

Picture of the correct syle for stock work.

PartTimeHunter · #45 06-23-2019, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dean2

There are a few advantages to this type of saw for doing fine wood working. The saw face is perfectly flat, like a cross cut saw but the blade is much thinner and they come in a large variety of teeth per inch. A fine tooth saw that only cuts on the pull stroke all along its face is very easy to cut a straight line with that is also perfectly perpendicular through the cut. There are two type of Japanese Pull cut saw, one like posted with an angled saw face and straight handle and another with a perfectly flat saw face and an offset handle. For shortening gun stocks you want the second version.

Picture of the correct syle for stock work.

Thanks

wolf308 · #46 06-23-2019, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tactical Lever

It's not that bad actually. If you use tape to protect the stock, you don't have to do any refinishing. If you were refinishing already, it wouldn't matter. Using the orbital sander makes it pretty quick. If I didn't have one I would be a lot less likely to do projects like that.

As far as shortening it, I only mention that as it's a pretty long length of pull already, and adding a thick pad is likely to make it too long for most.

Oh I took the hockey puck pad off. If you were thinking both are on
LOP is fine

Ryry4 · #47 06-25-2019, 04:24 PM

Thanks for the insight guys.

traderal · #48 06-27-2019, 08:38 PM

I have had a mini mauser in 22-250, a 375 and a 458 Zastava. Heck of a lot of rifle for the price. Will take them over a current Winchester any day. The long stock was a problem for me and I didn't want to bubba the stock so I sold them. Now Dean tells us about the pull saw. I'm always game for new tools and wife is always itchin to shop on Amazon. Guess I have to go buy another Zastava just so I can buy another tool. Heck maybe we can start a Zastava carving club. Have a tool pullers union with full patch ceremonies.

W00DY · #49 07-01-2019, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ryry4

Anyone on here with any experience with these rifles?

Good, Bad, Ugly?

Awesome rifles for the money. IMO one of the best bang for your buck rifles on the market today. Finishes on the stock can be a little bit rough, but they are great for what you get.

Bushleague · #50 07-01-2019, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuck

To the OP,

Buy a Ruger or better yet a Winchester 10x the stock, 10x the safety, 10x bottom metal, and I prefer the trigger.

Ok, compared to a Ruger or Winchester they are rough, I will give you that. Compared to a Savage, Tika, or Vanguard... or any other rifle in their price range that I can think of... I would happily take the Zastava. A Zastava is a good rifle with lots of potential IMO, while most budget rifles are like 3rd gen Camaro's... you can dump all the money you want into that hole but in the end you've still got a cheezy azz car.

If one wanted to bring used rifles into the mix however, my opinion would probably change.