Refinishing Stock with TruOil

rayf01 · #1 07-20-2014, 07:35 PM

So I am just about done. I have about 9 coats of TruOil on my stock and I feel its thick enough for my liking. I want to polish it out with Pumice Powder and RottenStone to give it a satin finish. Before I start with those, do I need to use anything else first before like a 0000 steel wool or high sand paper, or can I go straight to the pumice powder then rotten stone?

Also, I noticed that the wood is somewhat porous so its not 100% even. I can notice it when I knocked back with steel wool between coats. You can tell where the wool makes contact and when it doesn't. This shouldn't be a problem when I buff it out with the rottenstone and pumice should it? I was going to use water with the pumice stone, and maybe vegtable or sunflower oil with the rottenstone.

sikwhiskey · #2 07-21-2014, 12:06 AM

You will notice those pores, the only way to get rid of them is to wet sand them out with 400 grit, or steel wool. When I put my first coat on I push it against the grain, when the tru oil gets tacky keep pushing it into the pores. Let it dry, a day or 2, then sand it down to wood. Repeat as nessesary.
When polishing with pumice it's important not to burn through the top coat to the next one, you will see an edge that cannot be fixed without another coat of oil. Letting the oil fully harden, 7-30 days will help.
If I were you, I'd wet sand those pores out, give it another 2-4 coats of oil, sanding with 0000 steel wool between coats. When I was happy with the last coat, let it dry 21 days. Then polish to glass,or steel wool too matte whichever looks better on that particular piece of wood. And finish with finishing paste.

rayf01 · #3 07-21-2014, 12:28 AM

Hard to wet sand it all out though now, I've got 8 or 9 coats on now, I'd have to take it all back down to the wood again. Thats a lot of time gone, crap.

sikwhiskey · #4 07-21-2014, 12:43 AM

You just need to wet sand it smooth, might have enough coats on to sand it out without going down to wood, or might not. I know your pain. Just recently did this myself lol. Wet sand with 400 is fast, I found. Can't ever be in too much of a rush finishing stocks.
You could try sanding it down a bit until your satisfied, then give it another coat, you will see what I mean by burning through to the next layers , but if you want that glass finish it needs to be smooth, then harden for polish. A matte finish might look ok, but the pores/ low spots are hard to get the sheen off for good consistency.

Dean2 · #5 07-21-2014, 03:29 AM

Tru Oil was never designed to have multiple top coats over the wood. After each coat, and a couple of days drying time, it should be wet sanded with 600 grit till all pores are completely filled. Once a mirror smooth finish is accomplished over 100% of the stock, a maximum of two finish coats are applied with 15 days drying time in between. Polish out the last coat after 30 days drying time and as previously said be very careful not to go through the last top coat. You will get a much harder, scratch proof finish with this method and it will be a lot easier to touch up if needed.

Your plan to use pumice or rotten stone will work but both will give a very satin, low gloss finish. They come in different grits, you want the extra, extra fine for final polish. Once done I suggest you apply a coat of Birchwood Casey stock wax.

Hunter1602 · #6 07-21-2014, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dean2

Tru Oil was never designed to have multiple top coats over the wood. After each coat, and a couple of days drying time, it should be wet sanded with 600 grit till all pores are completely filled. Once a mirror smooth finish is accomplished over 100% of the stock, a maximum of two finish coats are applied with 15 days drying time in between. Polish out the last coat after 30 days drying time and as previously said be very careful not to go through the last top coat. You will get a much harder, scratch proof finish with this method and it will be a lot easier to touch up if needed.

Your plan to use pumice or rotten stone will work but both will give a very satin, low gloss finish. They come in different grits, you want the extra, extra fine for final polish. Once done I suggest you apply a coat of Birchwood Casey stock wax.

Dean.. With all due respect that drying time is much longer then required. Have you worked with Tru oil before?
Tru oil can have multiple layers. Many people are not familiar with the proper ways to work with it. I've restored and refinished many firearms, and typically use Tru oil. The stocks when used with Tru oil will have a satin finish, when finished with pumice and rotten stone. It is recommended to be used that way as a high gloss finish has a soft and easily scratched surface. However, even with a satin finish you can use a finishing wax and bring a nice shine to the finish.

sikwhiskey · #7 07-21-2014, 11:04 AM

H1602, I believe Birchwood Casey recommends a minimum, finished dry time of 24 days if using pumice, 7 days if going with a matte finish.

This link helped me out quite a bit after doing my first stock, wish I had read it before hand.
http://www.doublegunshop.com/phiatt3.htm

Dean2 · #8 07-21-2014, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hunter1602

Dean.. With all due respect that drying time is much longer then required. Have you worked with Tru oil before?
Tru oil can have multiple layers. Many people are not familiar with the proper ways to work with it. I've restored and refinished many firearms, and typically use Tru oil. The stocks when used with Tru oil will have a satin finish, when finished with pumice and rotten stone. It is recommended to be used that way as a high gloss finish has a soft and easily scratched surface. However, even with a satin finish you can use a finishing wax and bring a nice shine to the finish.

I have finished stocks with MANY different oils and finishes but my all time favourite is Tru-Oil. I have used little else for the past 30 years unless I have been requested to specifically use something else. If you are just trying for an average finish on a cheap piece of wood, then you can shorten up drying time, wet sanding processes etc, and I would probably use something other than Tru-Oil for that kind of work.

For great finishes on superior wood, Tru-Oil is the right choice and you will get far better results if you have the patience to live with the long drying times. I have tried to pass on what works for me, and what the manufacturer actually recommends, but feel free to do as you wish. Many people never read the instructions or keep detailed notes of the processes they follow and the results of changes to those processes. I will not be the least offended as it is your gun stock after all.

Hunter1602 · #9 07-21-2014, 12:33 PM

Hey whiskey,

Yes I'm aware of what it says. However I've been finishing stocks now for years and haven't yet had one problem with wait times(24 to 48 hrs) depends on what the weather is doing.Depending what I'm working on either I finish with a reducer or japan dryer. Tru oil on its own works well too, just a tad thick (which works well when filling in the pours with wet sanding).
Regarding the pumas and rotten stone finish I have found just a couple days of drying works fine. Using veggie oil and mixing with the pumas for a finish ensures you don't take off too much of the finish. I'll leave a link of some work I've done.
Cheers

Hunter1602 · #10 07-21-2014, 12:41 PM

http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/showthread.php?t=179898

sikwhiskey · #11 07-21-2014, 01:06 PM

H1602 whats a Japan drier? lol. Loved the work on your marlin. I'm by no means an expert just passing on a few things that worked for me and wish i knew before jumping in head first. I kept blowing through the top layer of finish while polishing, until I let it sit for a week or so, heavy handed and inpatient with the first one

Ive done about 6 stocks since, using only tru oil as described in the double gun link, and they have turned out excellent.
Now the hardest part is finding tru oil, looks like Canada is trying to ban paints/stains with mineral spirt base, all switching to water base. I couldn't order it across the border, had to order it to Sweetgrass, then drive it back across. Found some at Cabellas in Edmonton, none at Lee Valley or WSS.
Next time I go State side, I'm going to try and find it in the aerosol spray can and buy whatever I can.

Hunter1602 · #12 07-21-2014, 01:19 PM

Hey whiskey,
Japan drier ? He's a lil fellow down the road who comes over and blows on the oil to hurry up the drying process..jk. It's a drying agent you can add to oil products to speed things up. Lee Valley in Calgary has some Tru oil. Buy it up as I've heard the same thing about Canada banning it.