wooden crankbait build along

[Smoky buck]

Well Huyfishn asked for a pictorial on how I build a crankbait so here we go

I only build my original crankbaits out of wood. If I like the design I mold it and future baits are poured with resin. I will stick to making an original wooden crankbait for this build.

This will be a 7 inch cedar deep diving crankbait I will use for pike and lake trout. You can apply the basis of this bait to different body/lip shapes but every change effects action.

Warning my building style is a little red neck and relying on having a good I for making things symmetrical. I will use some tricks I know other lure builders use for learning purposes but I normally just wing it instead. There is a lot of things I do just because and figured out from making mistakes. I have made lots of scrap wood over the years

[Smoky buck]

So for starters draw out your design on your piece of wood. The lip slot you want to be nice and tight. I used a scrap piece of lexan to trace the lip slot so I know it’s perfect.

Since this is a deep diver I am using a shallow angle from my lip slot. Sharper angle shallower it dives and go far enough it becomes a wake bait

The curved design of this body is actually problematic when it comes to balancing a crankbait. I recommend a more conventional shape with a flat or drop belly if you want to attempt your own. I am actually using tricks in the design to balance this body style that take hooks and hardware into consideration.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Smoky buck]

I rough cut the design with a bandsaw. Not really concerned about the outside because it will be cleaned up with the belt sander. Cut the lip slot first because if you mess up here you start over. I take a scrap of lexan and slip it into the lip slot to test it. You want a good fit with no play but you don’t want to force it either

The lexan I am using for this build is 1/8


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Smoky buck]

If possible I like to use wood that is thick enough for the bait but in this case I could not find thick enough cedar. So I have glued to pieces together to reach the 1 1/4 inch thickness I want for this lure.

If you have to do this don’t bother cutting the lip slot on the second piece. I don’t worry about cutting the exact shape either. After it’s dry it’s easier to cut the slot and clean the edges

So we wait for glue to dry today lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[58thecat]

keep us posted.....

[Smoky buck]

I will be taking my time but I will keep posting progress as I go

If anyone has questions feel free to ask.

[aulrich]

I like making laminated baits, i find it's easier to keep all of the hardware centered. Screw eyes and me just don't get along. I am also not the best lip maker but that is going to change soon, I have a niece who is getting a laser cutter so I should soon have all of the lips I need.

At his point I am messing around with CAD and a 3d printer.

[Smoky buck]

Laminating does make it easier to find the centre line. I don’t even mark my baits anymore even if it’s a solid piece. I got got good at eyeing things from being too lazy to mark things out lol. I will mark this one for others to see how

There is tricks to cutting lips using a template and a rotor or belt sander but you will get a nicer fish with the lazer cutter. With this being a new bait I will be just cutting/sanding one the old school way

Aulrich I would be interested in seeing your work. If you could post a pic in the other thread I made to see what lures/flies people make that would be great

My shop is not heated so not jumping up to start the next step lol. I will post up some more steps today but won’t be going too far. I have a couple prototypes on the go so need to pick at them as well

[Smoky buck]

So it’s too bloody cold in the shop today so I don’t think there will be a lot of progress today.

So cleaned up the edges and marked the basic profile of the back. Because you need to keep everything symmetrical it is smart to mark a centre line that way you have a guide to work with. I am going for a wide belly profile with this lure because I find it makes a big difference when trolling for Lakers or other fish looking up at your lure

My theory is a wide flat belly gives off more flash then a thin profile bait.This bait will also tip side to side well it wiggles giving contrast between the belly and sides. I find this can make a huge difference somedays. It is not always the answer but definitely another tool to get fish biting.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[HuyFishin]

i'm excited to see this, How long does it usually take you for one lure?

[Smoky buck]

Originally Posted by HuyFishin

i'm excited to see this, How long does it usually take you for one lure?

A wooden lure carved from one piece I can actually do in 3 days and most of that is because of waiting for paint/epoxy to cure. Depending on how simple I keep the body shape I can turn out quite a few in that time frame. When I pour them out of resin I can make even more. If I use UV epoxy I can finish the process in 24hrs but it won’t increase the number of lures I complete in the long run

I am going to complete this lure to the can be fished with stage just for this build but for my personal use it is actually intended to be a master to make a mold. Theses days I only work with wood for prototype/masters and if they make the grade they will be duplicated in resin baits

The lure in this build is not the only one I am working on and even though it’s a new design it’s a style and action I have mastered. I am also developing some very different lures that are early prototype stage. I have all kinds of prototypes at different stages.

I make stuff that moves in a lot of different ways from Topwater to deep divers

[aulrich]

Have you tried CA glue as a wood sealer, it seems to be popular , myself I just use thinned e-tex light, but CA glue would certainly cut out one 24hr epoxy run. Could be useful when you are making a one off prototype

Though I tended to make batches of lures so I would regularly have 12 or so on the spinner so it could usually wait until the next evening.

How does the UV cured resin stand up to pike teeth.

[Smoky buck]

Originally Posted by aulrich

Have you tried CA glue as a wood sealer, it seems to be popular , myself I just use thinned e-tex light, but CA glue would certainly cut out one 24hr epoxy run. Could be useful when you are making a one off prototype

Though I tended to make batches of lures so I would regularly have 12 or so on the spinner so it could usually wait until the next evening.

How does the UV cured resin stand up to pike teeth.

I am in no rush with my prototypes. I find taking my time I often end up coming up with good adjustments as I go plus I jump between different ones as I think about developing them.

I use etex as well but going to test KBS after hearing good things. KBS a lot of guys don’t even spin them. I have not used the UV epoxy but know another builder who does. I can’t say how good it is or is not but it is not a very cost effective option so I don’t plan to even try it.

[aulrich]

KBS is definitely on the to try list, especially for smaller lures where the extra weight of the epoxy can cause problems. The UV was only going to make it to my shop if I could buy some locally.

What kind of resin do you cast your lure bodies with a pre mixed feather weight or regular resin with added micro balloons.

[Smoky buck]

Originally Posted by aulrich

KBS is definitely on the to try list, especially for smaller lures where the extra weight of the epoxy can cause problems. The UV was only going to make it to my shop if I could buy some locally.

What kind of resin do you cast your lure bodies with a pre mixed feather weight or regular resin with added micro balloons.

I have decided to develop some smaller baits this year and that is exactly why I am going to try KBS. I will likely stick to etex for big crankbaits but I have heard with enough coats KBS is just as good with less weight. Will try it out and make my own call

I use alumilite white and micro balloons. I tried the smooth on version and it fell short. Because I vary my recipe to achieve different results feather lite won’t work for me

[Smoky buck]

Ok before I get into this I decided to put this design on a diet so I thinned out the back and belly

So one I cut out the back profile with the bandsaw and blended the edges together. You can see this in the pic of the top profile

Next I did some rough shaping with the belt sander. Because of the belly shape on this design it needs to be done by hand. All further shaping of the body will be done with a rasp and sand paper


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Smoky buck]

I use 3D eyes that are counter sunk into the lure. This gives a good look and protects the eyes from getting ripped off too easily

First I mark the location using the lip slot as my reference point to measure off off.

I use masking tape to mark my counter sink bit so both eyes are of equal depth. You could just use a this bit but I like to add a little character to my eyes. I have a a few sanding stone bits I use for this. Same process mark the depth with tape and round out the eye sockets to that depth. You can tip the bit and go for an oblong eye socket if you wish




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Smoky buck]

Here is the roughed in body shape done with the course section of my rasp. I will clean up the edges and blend the curves with the fine side of the rasp , then clean up the eye sockets because they always need adjusting after shaping. Then the sanding begins sanding

A common thing I have been asked in the past is why I don’t carve my lures the same shape as an existing fish?

I could easily make crankbaits shaped exactly like fish by make molds of a frozen fish and add hardware. The reason I don’t is I would not allow me achieve the actions I am looking for. Paying attention to how the body shape cuts through the water or catches the force of the water effects how it moves is much more important. The fact is fast moving baits action, depth, vibrations, flash, water displacement is way more important then life like profile.

When it comes to fast moving baits rough shape is all that matters fat, skinny, long and short is all that matters.

There is a reason for the shapes I carve. This part of my lure building is tough to explain


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Savage Bacon]

I love this kind of stuff. With the kids and other household duties it would take me a year to do something like this. I'll definitely be following along!

[Smoky buck]

Onto marking out the lip to cut out of lexan. First bend some thin cardboard in half. Draw out half the lip and cut it out. Unfold the cardboard and you know have a symmetrical template. Take your lexan and tape of a section in masking tape. Trace your template on to the lexan with a pen. You want a fine line so you keep a clean line don’t use a sharpie. Fold your template in half an mark the center of the lip.

I then cut out the lip on my bandsaw. Just rough cut it because it gets cleaned up on the bandsaw after. When sanding watch the edges because the tape folds making you think you have not sanded enough when you actually have. Wear a mask when cutting and sanding lexan the dust is nasty crap. If you breath it in it will sit in your chest and you will feel it trust me been there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Smoky buck]

Ok I made another design adjustment. I adjusted the eye sockets on this bait so they are also catch points that will hopefully throw a random quirk in the action. This has been a hit or miss trick and I have not tried it on a lure this big. May work may just end up with deep eyes

So back to the lip. Since this is a deep diver the line tie is in the lip. So I place the lip in the bait and mark my line tie location. Pull the lip back out and drill two holes

So the lip I decided to go with is a conventional oval design. It is a wider lip with some length to it because the goal is a wider wobble and some depth. Basically the wider the lip the more side to side you get and narrower tightens it up. The length helps control depth longer deeper shorter shallower.

The tie point I choose should be a good balance of depth and action. This bait will definitely dive. Where you put your tie point will also dictate the depth and action. Closer to the lure increases the action farther away decreases the action. Depth is achieved by moving the tie point away from the bait

The fun part is learning the magical balance in these factors. If you push the limits just right you get a crazy bait that hunts but over do it and you get a bait that blows out

How you balance/weigh your lure plays a roll too but will get to that when we get there


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Smoky buck]

Ok time to install some hardware

The hardware in the pic is 5/0 trebles, stainless splint rings and if I remember right 1 7/16 stainless eye screws. I build my big baits overkill but that don’t fail

Lay out your hardware to be sure your hooks are not going to fowl. The position of the hooks on this bait is ideal no fowling and should not miss strikes. A little play either way is ok. Mark your location for eyes and be sure they are centred to keep balance. Drill your pilot holes. Feed eye screws in and out once dry.

For glueing in your hardware I use a 4hr epoxy. It may take longer to cure but it’s strong. A lot of guys use simple 5min epoxy and even super glue on small lures.

Eye screws simply put some epoxy on the threads and screws them in. For the lip peel back part of the protective layer on the lexan lip just enough so your not gluing it into the bait. This way you still have your guide line you marked earlier. Epoxy the lip slop and slide in the lip. Line it up so it’s square but don’t worry too much. Wipe the excess epoxy off with a wet paper towel and hot water. Once the epoxy starts to set but still has movement check on the lip and make your final adjustments so it’s square

And now we wait


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Smoky buck]

I decided to adjust the contours of the face and give it different eye sockets. This is why I take my time with my wood prototypes because my plans always change as I carve.

Ok next step is pinning the lip. When your tie point is in the lip it’s always wise to pin it rather then relying on epoxy alone. You want to pin the lip through the nose, through the lexan and just a little into the lower lip.

Cut two pieces of stiff wire long enough to go through the three layers but shorter then the full length of the hole you are going to drill. Mark 2 spots on the nose and mark your drill bit so you don’t go too deep. Cover your wire pins with epoxy push them into the hole so the end is under the surface. Cover your holes with wood filler

Done right between the epoxy and pins that lip will break well before it pulls out. This method is used for species much bigger then are found in Alberta. When I am doing my baits out of resin I actual cast the lip and tie point into the body of this style of bait even. Honestly with just the epoxy you will get by majority of the time but I don’t recommend it

I would rather be overkill then loose a big fish do to failure


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Smoky buck]

Being a wooden lure we have to seal/harden the wood. Basically if not the lure will absorb liquid causing raised grain or even rot. Hardening the wood also prevents hardware from pulling out. Not as big of an issue with cedar but balsa lures hardening is very important

Started out sanding the lure to clean up wood filler and smooth any rough spots. Mask of the lexan because you don’t want to get sealer on it

For sealer I am using envirotex lite epoxy thinned with acetone. The epoxy is a simple 1:1 mix be sure to mix it well and your measurements are correct so it cures nice. I thin my epoxy with a 1 part acetone to 2 part epoxy. Again stir it really well. It does not take much the pic of the cup is what I used to seal two lures. I then brush the mix on the lure making sure not to miss anything. Wait about 10 min and brush out any air bubbles

And tomorrow is paint day


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Smoky buck]

So what for paint job do you guys want to see a pattern for targeting pike or Lakers?

[HuyFishin]

lets make a nasty looking sucker lol

[Smoky buck]

Originally Posted by HuyFishin

lets make a nasty looking sucker lol

You want a nasty paint job or are you wanting it to look like an ugly bottom feeding sucker lol

[HuyFishin]

Originally Posted by Smoky buck

You want a nasty paint job or are you wanting it to look like an ugly bottom feeding sucker lol

A nice detailed bottom feeder lol

[Smoky buck]

Originally Posted by HuyFishin

A nice detailed bottom feeder lol

I will be honest with you not my favourite pattern so I will hope more options appear before I start painting lol

I should mention I have to test if the lure is balanced once the sealer drys and if it needs weight it may delay paint. But if this build goes as planed I won’t need to add weight

[HuyFishin]

Originally Posted by Smoky buck

I will be honest with you not my favourite pattern so I will hope more options appear before I start painting lol

I should mention I have to test if the lure is balanced once the sealer drys and if it needs weight it may delay paint. But if this build goes as planed I won’t need to add weight

Maybe a golden shiner for lakers