Lubricating the semi-auto shotguns.

[gitrdun]

I recently had a fellow bring in a Remington model 58 shotgun, 12 gauge. The extractor was broken. So I robbed one from a Rem 870 pump (same extractor). When test firing it, it would not cycle to the next round. I applied masking tape to the charging handle groove and found that it would not cycle back far enough to eject the fired round and obviously cycle the next one. The gun was gummed up with the typical mixture of oil and spent powder (mud). Thus, I cleaned it up and ran it dry, still no success. Having inspected all internals and finding all to be as they should, I decided that perhaps the gas piston was worn and leaking. I ordered a new one from WGP, however all that they have for these older guns are "used" parts. So take your chances. We decided to go for it. The new used piston came in. I installed it, it worked slightly better than the original. It did not show wear pattern on the sealing ring as did the original. The masking tape test showed that it would send the charging handle much further back than the original, but still not far enough. At this point, I decided that I've got nothing to loose anyhow. So I stripped her down once again. Cleaned all parts bone dry. Then against all Remington recommendations, I lubed the breech bolt, the magazine raceways, the new gas piston and it's gas cylinder with spray on graphite. The product that I used comes in a spray can. The propellant material evaporates quickly and leaves only a layer of graphite powder. Low and behold, that old girl now cycles beautifully without any objections whatsoever. The lesson for you semi-auto shotgun shooting fellows out there is.......loose the oil. Run those guns dry or lube them with graphite. In fact, you could actually apply that to your bolt guns, your pumps, your levers, etc.

[DiabeticKripple]

i think remington makes a dry teflon spray that works the same way as the graphite. i dont use it anymore but maybe i should be.

[BPman]

I owned and shot 58's at skeet for years and in their time they were notorious for fouling up the piston and gas cylinder area at the front of the magazine tube. The receiver was rarely the problem but lack of up front cleaning invariably lead to cycling problems. The evolution to the 1100 solved that short-coming. In cold weather we learned to shoot our 1100's with only a very light lube of G-96, WD-40 or other silicone spray. No grease or oil except in summer and then only very sparingly.

[Duke1]

I use Rem dri-lube on all action types. I find it goes on clean and doesn't form a paste if you happen to mix a little oil on it.

[gtr]

Glad it worked well for you. Oil and semi auto don't mix. Fellows that use it usually have a failure, and blame it on the gun.

[ward]

I run my Auto’s (gas) wet with CLP. Beretta’s and Winchester, much easier to clean. Powder residue just wipes off with little effort. I ran the Beretta’s dry to start, but found cleaning the gas system components a pain. I do clean them regularly though, after a thousand rounds or so.No reliability problems and I shoot 12 months a year. I do have an inertia auto I run dry.

[petew]

I have been shooting Rem 1100's since the late 60's, and Remington always said do not lube the gas system. They will gum up quickly if oiled .

[Scottmisfits]

Originally Posted by Duke1

I use Rem dri-lube on all action types. I find it goes on clean and doesn't form a paste if you happen to mix a little oil on it.

I was turned on to this very early on in my shooting. I used to use something with a similar idea when I raced BMX and mountain bikes, and again when I raced RC Cars. It wasn’t in an aerosol can for those, just a regular squeeze bottle.
I got well over 5000 shots out of my rimfire semi before I just decided to tear it down and clean it after using the Dri-Lube.

[Newview01]

Originally Posted by Duke1

I use Rem dri-lube on all action types. I find it goes on clean and doesn't form a paste if you happen to mix a little oil on it.

This is the only lube I use. Never had any issues yet.

[antmai]

I have an inertia-have run it with very light oil, where I see contact points. A drop an of a qtip and I go hunting for wear marks. I have yet to have an issue but I have yet to take it out in sub-zero and refuse to let my guns be left alone after a shoot.

[gitrdun]

Originally Posted by antmai

I have an inertia-have run it with very light oil, where I see contact points. A drop an of a qtip and I go hunting for wear marks. I have yet to have an issue but I have yet to take it out in sub-zero and refuse to let my guns be left alone after a shoot.

Hi antmai. The inertia driven guns are less prone to lube failure than those that are gas driven. However, you seem diligent about where and how much lube to use. The guns that I refer to seem to be lubricated by pouring oil all over in hopes that it migrates to the right spot.

[bat119]

Originally Posted by gitrdun

Hi antmai. The inertia driven guns are less prone to lube failure than those that are gas driven. However, you seem diligent about where and how much lube to use. The guns that I refer to seem to be lubricated by pouring oil all over in hopes that it migrates to the right spot.

I can relate to this My neighbour was having problem with his Browning auto I dismantled and cleaned the film of shellac and plastic looking coating covering the internals. He was using 3 N 1 oil generously filling any opening he could find, the top of the wrist was blackened from years of oil saturation.

3n1 has a picture of a gun on it

[elkhunter11]

I use a light synthetic oil sparingly on the bolt of my SX-3, and I have never had an issue , regardless of the temperature.

[Puma]

Used to run a Rem Sportsman 58. Also run 1100 and a Woods Master 740.

Always use G 96 lightly wiped and never had an issue.

[kal.b.]

i'll try that dry spray or graphite on my stoeger m2000. never had problems with cycling but i dont use much oil anyway. always hated the smell of gunoil.

[270person]

My Beretta semi 12 could be a finicky bugger at times. G96, wiped, and I've never had a problem since.

I don't let oil of any type get near my guns unless it's real light in the barrels before storage.

[Knotter]

I had good success with grease in a semi auto rifle. used sparingly on surfaces inside the action that mattered helped it run smooth. It stayed in operational condition for a long time with this method. Would it work in this case?

I've even experimented on my bolt gun and like the results.

[CNP]

Originally Posted by Knotter

I had good success with grease in a semi auto rifle. used sparingly on surfaces inside the action that mattered helped it run smooth. It stayed in operational condition for a long time with this method. Would it work in this case?

I've even experimented on my bolt gun and like the results.

Anything wet, including grease, will combine with carbon and result in a paste and eventually jam your gun. Oil and grease will become thick in cold weather and jam your gun. If you use oil or grease in your gun, use it in warm weather only and clean it more regularly.

[gitrdun]

For the life of me, I can't understand why one would choose ANY type of oil or grease on ANY semi-auto. As stated above by CNP, it all turns into "muck" that will jam up in cold weather and with enough shooting in warm weather too. Go for the graphite lube and never look back.