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Old 09-09-2017, 11:49 PM
Coreyh's Avatar
Coreyh Coreyh is offline
 
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Default Rest Adjustment vs Sight Adjustment

What's your procedure, or the correct sequence for:

Paper tune
Broad head tune
Walk back tune
Sighting in

I acquired a pre set up, 2nd hand bow in January(my first ever bow), and it seemed to be shooting fine. I was consistently putting 2" groups at 60 yds.
Recently, friend gave me a bunch of broad heads to experiment with so I could find what worked. Turns out none of them fly very well without changes being required.
So, I paper tuned. Got bullet holes with very little adjustment (moved my rest one graduation to the right).
This morning, I went shooting to try again, and my broadheads land mostly where I want them, but FP's are At least 5" low at 20 yds.
I played around with my rest a little more, but wasn't able to get FP's and BH's close together.
I have not done a walk back tune. Maybe that's the key..? Mostly what I want to know is when do I move the rest, and when do I move the sight?

Bear Arena 34 @ 58 lbs.30" draw. 340 spine Easton Powerflight arrows, 100 gr Exodus, Slick Trick, Cabelas fixed blade BH's.
Many Thanks!
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Old 09-10-2017, 02:03 PM
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Lefty-Canuck Lefty-Canuck is offline
 
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You won't always get the BH and FP to same point of impact, just adjust your sight to your BH if everything else is tuned and arrow flight is good

LC
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Old 09-10-2017, 05:04 PM
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Coreyh Coreyh is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck View Post
You won't always get the BH and FP to same point of impact, just adjust your sight to your BH if everything else is tuned and arrow flight is good

LC
Thanks Lefty!
That puts my mind at ease.
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Old 09-10-2017, 06:43 PM
StoneChaser StoneChaser is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck View Post
You won't always get the BH and FP to same point of impact, just adjust your sight to your BH if everything else is tuned and arrow flight is good

LC
I disagree with you. I tune a pile of bows each year, and have yet to find one that won't shoot broadheads with field points (but you will need a bow press and draw board).

And the answer to the OP, you move neither the rest nor the sight (after the rest is set to centershot).

1. Set rest to centershot
2. Sync cam rotation on a draw board (control and buss cables)
3. Quick paper tune (Yoke / CC tune until bullet holes in paper)
4. Broadhead tune (shoot FP and broadheads) - final adjustments using yokes for left / right and Control Cable for high / low).

Moving a rest or sight is simply a bandaid solution to hide a poorly tuned bow.

Once tuned, you'll have no problems grouping FP & Broadheads out as far as you want to shoot.
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Old 09-10-2017, 07:17 PM
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Lefty-Canuck Lefty-Canuck is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneChaser View Post
I disagree with you. I tune a pile of bows each year, and have yet to find one that won't shoot broadheads with field points (but you will need a bow press and draw board).

And the answer to the OP, you move neither the rest nor the sight (after the rest is set to centershot).

1. Set rest to centershot
2. Sync cam rotation on a draw board (control and buss cables)
3. Quick paper tune (Yoke / CC tune until bullet holes in paper)
4. Broadhead tune (shoot FP and broadheads) - final adjustments using yokes for left / right and Control Cable for high / low).

Moving a rest or sight is simply a bandaid solution to hide a poorly tuned bow.

Once tuned, you'll have no problems grouping FP & Broadheads out as far as you want to shoot.
Correct, with the proper means it can be done. The average joe just doesn't have the proper means. Also without knowing the bow, hard to say if there is the flexibility of yoke tuning available...could mean shimming in many cases.

LC
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Old 09-13-2017, 12:53 AM
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Coiloil37 Coiloil37 is offline
 
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Properly tuned your bow will shoot any straight spinning broadhead to the same poi as your field tips and anyone can learn how to tune. Most just choose not to.

When you move your rest down do both groups move the same amount or do your broadheads get closer to your field tips?

Have you shot bare shafts? If so where do they group in relation to fletched field tips? They'll probably be high but also what angle are they stuck into the target? Nock hi/low/left/right?

Most likely you've either got an issue with nock travel, rest is to high or your nocking point needs to move up.

Also possible your bottom limb is working harder then your top limb. You might need to adjust them a little but I would have to see some bare shaft groups along with fletched groups, (shot with perfect form) to say. And it would be one of the last things I adjusted if I couldn't bring bare shafts, field tips and broadheads together to the same poi with the usual tuning.

Last edited by Coiloil37; 09-13-2017 at 12:59 AM.
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Old 09-13-2017, 02:03 PM
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ABBowman ABBowman is offline
 
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i had this issue tuning my DRT broadheads this year i tried paper tuning walk back tuning knock tuning I adjusted my rest and still couldn't get them to group together so i decided to just switch to mechanical broadheads and havent had an issue i can get 2" groups well out passed 80yrds with FP and practice heads. i took my bull elk with NAP killzone broadhead a few days ago. if you want to save yourself some headache that would be my choice
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