Always trying to improve.

[millsboy79]

My presentation has been going through some changes recently.

I am trying to refine and find something I like and that will ultimately produce better results.

Currently I am using this mustad snap swivel


I use it because of how easy it is to remove the swivel. Until this year I never really used a swivel I was told it can affect the action of your lures (but recently started to include it). On top of that it was super easy to go from one style of fishing to another with a simple surgeons loop and this snap. Take the snap out of the loop add an in line bobber and weight throw the snap back on and you're good to go. Want to switch to lures pop it back off take the bobber off, put the snap back through the loop and pop on your Fav lure etc.

The problem I am curious about is the angle at the bottom and how it can affect lure presentation (in comparison to a round bottom snap)

A couple options I thought of to keep the same snap would include:

Adding a round snap to every lure as it sits in the tackle box.
(Con = more bulk around the front of the lure because of the two snaps)

Using my 25 lb fluoro leader material to tie shorter leaders directly to my lures with Rapala knots
(Con = tons or lures with leaders attached will make a real mess for storage, adding more knots will add more potential weak points on my line)

Other options:

Do it the Ole fashioned way and tie each lure directly to my 8' main fluoro leader with a Rapala knot.
(Con = tonnes of extra time.) I mainly fish from shore and there are only two things you can change; where you're standing or; what you're throwing. Where you're standing is usually quite limited so it is nice to have a very efficient way to quickly change your lures.

Throw out my favourite snaps and move to a different style.
(Con = have not found another snap I like as much but am open to suggestions)

I am sure most people will just say to switch swivels but I am still looking forward to hearing how other people do it.

Currently I am just fishing for pike. I have a different spool for trout so I can use different set ups for different species, which is new this season and may actually solve some of the issues since I mainly use the bobber and bobber stoppers for trout and can totally abandon that style while fishing for pike without much effort at all.

[bobalong]

I use cross lock snaps and mustad swivels and put them together myself. Similar to the rig you have but I like the cross lock snaps better.

[EZM]

Me too - cross locks or coast locks.

They are a pain on smaller crankbaits or lures - but I have since added a wolverine split ring to my smaller lures to allow the use of the much more secure cross or coast lock style of snap.

Buy the swivel snaps and swivels that have a lb. test rating.

https://www.amazon.ca/Berkley-Plated...ss+lock+swivel



http://www.wolverinetackleinc.com/rings.htm

[millsboy79]

Moved to 50 lb seaguar fluoro with a no name knot. (Was the highest test they had)

Got some ball bearing swivels and attached to some different style round snap.

[millsboy79]

Originally Posted by EZM

Me too - cross locks or coast locks.

They are a pain on smaller crankbaits or lures - but I have since added a wolverine split ring to my smaller lures to allow the use of the much more secure cross or coast lock style of snap.

Buy the swivel snaps and swivels that have a lb. test rating.

https://www.amazon.ca/Berkley-Plated...ss+lock+swivel



http://www.wolverinetackleinc.com/rings.htm

Do you find those snaps are "round" enough to get the action you want out of your crank baits? They seem to have an uneven taper to them which I would think would be the same as the ones I currently use.

Was thinking maybe one of these ones?

http://www.cabelas.ca/product/47067/...-swivels-black

http://www.cabelas.ca/product/47069/...p-swivel-black

[Lowrance Fishburn]

Berkeley #1, Danielson's #2 IMO

[millsboy79]

Originally Posted by Jet

For the lures, I use fluoro leader to the lure (no snaps), and about 3-4 ft and a single swivel.

Then I can switch stuff out fast (snap from line connects to swivel on lure).

If the lure is anything that has an action I don't want to damage (like crank baits), then I use a Rapala Knot in the leader to the lure, to allow the lure to retain it's action.
.

I got lost here somewhere ... if your fluoro goes to your lure directly does that mean each lure has its own permanent leader attached?

I thought about doing that but I didn't know how to keep the leaders neat and tidy in my tackle box.

Also curious what test fluoro are you using?

[millsboy79]

Originally Posted by Jet

Personally I laser cut myself a solution out of plywood which stops the tangling and fits in standard tackle box compartments. I find it to be best for my needs. Wrap around twice on the short direction, then wrap the rest around the long and then drop swivel through the hole to lock it from coming loose. Only takes a few seconds to wrap / unwrap.

That's a neat idea. So much good stuff on here.

I just learned the sebile knot to have a nice low profile castable knot for this weekend but now I kind of want to set up my lures with their own leaders. I could make the leader holders out of cardboard for now since I don't have a laser lol.

[SD1797]

That's such a neat idea! Is that something you saw elsewhere or your own design?

[Lowrance Fishburn]

Personally I would not go flouro direct to the lure unless i was fishing smaller fish or fish with smaller teeth like trout. Walleye and pike can cut through a 50 lb flouro leader with ease if they get it in their mouth. I prefer the snap-swivel as a means of not only ease of changing lures but also gives an extra inch and a bit to avoid the fishes teeth from the line. It also prevents line twist with lures like spinners and spoons.

For fish with smaller teeth, lighter test flouro tied direct is a fine approach but you will loose more tackle on bigger fish. 50 lb test fluro leader, while still being virtually invisible underwater, is quite stiff and when fish are "hitting" the lure but not eating it, they are generally seeing what the heck is up with whatever your'e casting and they can feel the stiffness of the leader and know something is up. The snap-swivel provides easier erratic movement of the lure as it can move a bit at the end of a swivel but not when tied direct.

There are pros and cons to be sure. The only time I generally tie off direct to the lure is when I am jigging. But again, dont be surprised if you get bitten off.

[millsboy79]

Originally Posted by Jet

Correct, the advantage in going leader to the lure is low visibility, abrasion resistance (against teeth) and freedom of movement (with the Rapala Knot).
The fish just sees the lure and no extra hardware.



Anything from 8-40lb. Depends on the lure and what I'll be fishing for, typically I go heavier (20, 30, 40) unless it's for trout in which case I'll go 8.

I am trying to follow your lead but am having troubles with the Rapala knot because of the stiffness of the fluorocarbon.


You can see that knot itself looks loose and almost messy.

I have watched a number of videos on YouTube but they all use a very pliable rope or smaller test and their knots look perfect.

Fluoro used 50lb seaguar.

Thanks


Edit

To confirm I am doing the knot right I tied one with a 25lb vanish fluoro.



So apparently it is simply the extra test of the line making it look messy I am just concerned about the knot backing off. Any tips???

[millsboy79]

Originally Posted by Jet

Also, I wrap more than 3 times, generally I'll go 5-8 (more on the higher poundage).

That sounds opposite of everything I have read or watched before ... more wraps for less poundage line?

I was doing three wraps because that's what it was showing in the videos I watched.

[huntsfurfish]

On heavier line I may use less wraps. Light line may use more.

[millsboy79]

Originally Posted by Jet

Correct, the advantage in going leader to the lure is low visibility, abrasion resistance (against teeth) and freedom of movement (with the Rapala Knot).
The fish just sees the lure and no extra hardware. Also the rod setup / connection is standardized. The disadvantage is cost and leader management and an extra swivel per lure.

I've tried a bunch of different ways, but only gotten on with this one.


You need to wrap it around something, you can wrap it around itself in a loop too and use zip ties or the free end, but that's prone to tangling and takes up some space and takes time.

One solution is these: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1vDFPdp6OL.png

Another is the foam pipe insulators tubes (similar idea but cheaper).

Personally I laser cut myself a solution out of plywood which stops the tangling and fits in standard tackle box compartments. I find it to be best for my needs. Wrap around twice on the short direction, then wrap the rest around the long and then drop swivel through the hole to lock it from coming loose. Only takes a few seconds to wrap / unwrap.






Anything from 8-40lb. Depends on the lure and what I'll be fishing for, typically I go heavier (20, 30, 40) unless it's for trout in which case I'll go 8.

One other thing, if you're casting with that setup described you'll need to keep the leaders fairly short. I'm mainly trolling or jigging and if it's a casting lure (like some of the big top water lures I have), then I just use a couple of feet leader instead of 3-4 ft to make it more manageable to cast.

I found a very cheap easy alternative to the issue of keeping my leaders relatively organized.

I use McDs straws and cut them into 1cm lengths then and then just wrap and stuff.

Like this.

Seems to work awesome and nothing is cheaper than free.

[cooper]

Originally Posted by millsboy79

I found a very cheap easy alternative to the issue of keeping my leaders relatively organized.

I use McDs straws and cut them into 1cm lengths then and then just wrap and stuff.

Like this.

Seems to work awesome and nothing is cheaper than free.

Nice you win.