Down rigger weights

[opto55]

So I installed Scotty electric downriggers on my boat on the weekend. What weight should I use to troll for salmon? Fishing in Sooke this summer.
Thanks.

[barbless]

I guess that would depend on depth and speed. 8 to 10 and not round but fish or fin shaped. Just read all the posts that come and you will find what you're looking for. Some awesome info from members here. Great ideas and over a thousands years of experience combined.

[Dark]

Originally Posted by Shooter's Optometrist

So I installed Scotty electric downriggers on my boat on the weekend. What weight should I use to troll for salmon? Fishing in Sooke this summer.
Thanks.

10 lb min I use 12 lb and 15.

[dodgeboy1979]

Originally Posted by Dark

10 lb min I use 12 lb and 15.

X2

[EZM]

Likely your downrigger will be rated for 20lb weights. Most electrics are.

If you have electrics you don't have to crank them up manually - so use something heavy - like a 20lber are recommended. Sure the 15's are nicer to handle at the beginning and at the end of the day - but you are not cranking them yourself.

Keep in mind - the heavier it is, the less blow out you will get, the better the fish stick to the hook when taking a bite as the rod doesn't need to compensate for blow out upon tripping the release.

Went to a bigger weight and doubled my hook ups on Salmon.

[RavYak]

Originally Posted by EZM

Likely your downrigger will be rated for 20lb weights. Most electrics are.

If you have electrics you don't have to crank them up manually - so use something heavy - like a 20lber are recommended. Sure the 15's are nicer to handle at the beginning and at the end of the day - but you are not cranking them yourself.

Keep in mind - the heavier it is, the less blow out you will get, the better the fish stick to the hook when taking a bite as the rod doesn't need to compensate for blow out upon tripping the release.

Went to a bigger weight and doubled my hook ups on Salmon.

The downside to using a heavier ball is slack line once the release is tripped. I will try to explain.

When using a downrigger you control how much line you let out before attaching to the clip(lets call this L2), how much line you let out of your downrigger(L1), your downrigger weight and your speed.

The depth(D) and amount of blow back(B) are complex functions of speed, downrigger ball weight shape and line/lure/weight drag. Thankfully we can ignore all that for this situation though.

So you end up with something that looks like the following with L3 the remaining variable being the distance from you in the boat to the fish after it trips the release.



Now the math part. From simple geometry and pythagorean's theorem we know

D^2 + (L2+B)^2 = L3^2

and

D^2 + B^2 = L1^2

The first equation expands into

D^2 + L2^2 + 2*L2*B + B^2 = L3^2

From which we can then substitute the 2nd equation to get

L1^2 + L2^2 + 2*L2*B = L3^2

I will come back to this formula in a second. First we must realize that slack(S) in the line will be your total line out minus distance from fish so

S = L1 + L2 - L3.

So in order to decrease amount of slack line we want to increase L3.

Going back to the formula from before

L1^2 + L2^2 + 2*L2*B = L3^2

We clearly see that the only way to increase L3 given a specific L1 and L2 is to increase the amount of blow back(B).

This makes sense because as you decrease downrigger weight your blow back increases and approaches a line with no weight in which case you have direct contact with your lure(no slack).

Slack line is a killer especially if using barbless hooks so the fact you increased your hookups on salmon must have been because you were getting a better hookset I guess(more water resistance on ball and different angles of line on the release). Still trying to wrap my head around that, I will have to take your word on it since I don't have enough experience on that. I have however realized the slack line issue fishing for lakers and having to reel like mad after you break free form the release.

To the OP most people use heavier downrigger balls to better control their depth(less blow back means downrigger line out closer represents depth) and to reduce blow back so that the downrigger ball is visible in their sonar cone so that they believe they know what depth the ball is actually fishing at. I say believe they are fishing at because theoretically the fish finder should show the same depth as the line out because sonar only measures how far away an object is. This is also the reason a fish on a flasher almost always appears to come from below the lure when in fact they are approaching from the side(but due to angles are a longer distance from flasher and thus appear lower on the flasher screen).

Just food for thought, hopefully I didn't confuse too many people lol. I don't have enough experience to comment one way or the other what is the best weight although we prefer the 15 lbs(our heaviest) because it allows us to better control our depth being fished.

[opto55]

So where do I buy 15 # weights?

[Salmon Slayer Lenny]

Originally Posted by Shooter's Optometrist

So where do I buy 15 # weights?

Probably won't get much better than this locally:
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-fishing-campi...ationFlag=true

Avoid any commercial dealers like Cabela's or TFH, they think they are made of gold!

I'd say you are right going with 15 lb weights. Unless you have the high power Scotty's, 20 lb's is too heavy.

You can offset the blowback by going with braided line instead of the stock stainless cable. I like Scotty's 200 lb braid.

[opto55]

Ok please explain the difference between wire and braided lines. Thank you.

[Salmon Slayer Lenny]

Originally Posted by Shooter's Optometrist

Ok please explain the difference between wire and braided lines. Thank you.

Well, one is stainless wire, the other is braid...

It's similar to comparing mono line with braid of a similar strength. The stainless line is roughly 2.5 times the diameter to a similar pound strength of braid. This results in more drag and resistance, increasing the blowback of L3 in the diagram above.

Another issue with wire is safety, it can be hard to cut if you get snagged unless you have snips or wire cutters readily available.

Another issue can be voltage, especially if you have an aluminum boat. Causes polarity in the line and according to some, can repel fish.

Braided line should be replaced every 2-3 years to prevent weak spots and loss of gear. Wire often frays and can birdsnest in your pulley and stopper, creating a huge headache. Once it starts, it often doesn't stop.

[RavYak]

Lenny is there any difference in humming noise or vibration between braid and cable? I have a small hand crank downrigger I use in my kayak but it gives off a pretty wicked humming sound that vibrates through the whole kayak.

I have been thinking of switching over to 100 lb braid instead(I only use a 4 lb ball) as it would be less drag and if the noise was reduced or went away that would be even more awesome.

[coachman]

I cast my own 18 lb weights, they cost me less then 10 bucks to make. Went to heavier just because they do hang closer to the boat, which you need when fishing in a crowd. You need to change your steel line also. When it starts to fray, cut it off, and change it when it starts to fray often. It saves your balls.

[SNAPFisher]

Originally Posted by Shooter's Optometrist

Ok please explain the difference between wire and braided lines. Thank you.

You might find this link useful:
http://saltpatrol.com/articles/braid...n-downriggers/

For weight, go heavier than 10 lb. Anyone that has fished Sooke knows of the very strong tides and nice chop on most afternoons coming down the straight. You will appreciate a bit more weight at times like this.

P.S. You don't need a formula to figure this out. Experience is a good teacher. PM if you want to chat about some of the spots in the area and I'm glad to help out.

Cheers!

[Sitkaspruce]

Run braid, I ran 130 Tuff in neon yellow for better visibility, use red stoppers designed for braid for your stoppers and clips. Remove 25-30' every year as that is wear 95% of the wear occurs.

Run 12 lbs. balls for your fishing in Sooke as you don't need to run deep and they will give you more depth control in the currents. You can run 15's, but you don't really need them for Sooke fishing. I ran 12's all over the Island and never had a problem, even down at 200'.

If you do buy homemade cannon balls, check the wire, ask the guy what he uses for lead and wire. Make sure the wire is not coat hanger wire as that will corrode away in no time, usually at 60'.....and make sure the balls do not have tin in them mixed with the lead as they will again corrode.

Cheers

SS

[-JR-]

Originally Posted by RavYak

Lenny is there any difference in humming noise or vibration between braid and cable? I have a small hand crank downrigger I use in my kayak but it gives off a pretty wicked humming sound that vibrates through the whole kayak.

I have been thinking of switching over to 100 lb braid instead(I only use a 4 lb ball) as it would be less drag and if the noise was reduced or went away that would be even more awesome.

The humming.... I been using steal for many years.
Some days I will get a hum and some days none at all. why why ???

[SNAPFisher]

Originally Posted by -JR-

The humming.... I been using steal for many years.
Some days I will get a hum and some days none at all. why why ???

Yes...why oh why???

[EZM]

Originally Posted by RavYak

The downside to using a heavier ball is slack line once the release is tripped. I will try to explain.

When using a downrigger you control how much line you let out before attaching to the clip(lets call this L2), how much line you let out of your downrigger(L1), your downrigger weight and your speed.

The depth(D) and amount of blow back(B) are complex functions of speed, downrigger ball weight shape and line/lure/weight drag. Thankfully we can ignore all that for this situation though.

So you end up with something that looks like the following with L3 the remaining variable being the distance from you in the boat to the fish after it trips the release.



Now the math part. From simple geometry and pythagorean's theorem we know

D^2 + (L2+B)^2 = L3^2

and

D^2 + B^2 = L1^2

The first equation expands into

D^2 + L2^2 + 2*L2*B + B^2 = L3^2

From which we can then substitute the 2nd equation to get

L1^2 + L2^2 + 2*L2*B = L3^2

I will come back to this formula in a second. First we must realize that slack(S) in the line will be your total line out minus distance from fish so

S = L1 + L2 - L3.

So in order to decrease amount of slack line we want to increase L3.

Going back to the formula from before

L1^2 + L2^2 + 2*L2*B = L3^2

We clearly see that the only way to increase L3 given a specific L1 and L2 is to increase the amount of blow back(B).

This makes sense because as you decrease downrigger weight your blow back increases and approaches a line with no weight in which case you have direct contact with your lure(no slack).

Slack line is a killer especially if using barbless hooks so the fact you increased your hookups on salmon must have been because you were getting a better hookset I guess(more water resistance on ball and different angles of line on the release). Still trying to wrap my head around that, I will have to take your word on it since I don't have enough experience on that. I have however realized the slack line issue fishing for lakers and having to reel like mad after you break free form the release.

To the OP most people use heavier downrigger balls to better control their depth(less blow back means downrigger line out closer represents depth) and to reduce blow back so that the downrigger ball is visible in their sonar cone so that they believe they know what depth the ball is actually fishing at. I say believe they are fishing at because theoretically the fish finder should show the same depth as the line out because sonar only measures how far away an object is. This is also the reason a fish on a flasher almost always appears to come from below the lure when in fact they are approaching from the side(but due to angles are a longer distance from flasher and thus appear lower on the flasher screen).

Just food for thought, hopefully I didn't confuse too many people lol. I don't have enough experience to comment one way or the other what is the best weight although we prefer the 15 lbs(our heaviest) because it allows us to better control our depth being fished.

Rav,

I have to disagree with you. It doesn't mean we are fighting ..... just discussing opinions. lol.

Your picture illustrates my point precisely. Your diagram illustrates L1 (more vertical on a heavier ball) and L3 (more blowback with a lighter ball) represent the downrigger cable and in both cases I assume. Obviously the more cable you have out the more line you need to have out and, by definition, the more blow back you are getting.

If you assume you set your lure "20 feet behind the ball" (with either set up) and let enough cable out to get you down to a running depth of, say, 80 feet, you are going to have more cable and more fishing line out (creating more blow out) using the lighter ball 100% of the time.

There is absolutely ZERO advantage to using a lighter ball (unless you are hand cranking it) so use the heaviest one you can.

Less blow back, less fishing line in the water, better hook ups......that's the reality of it. That's why guys who do lot's of salmon trolling use heavy balls.

Next time you are out there run a 20 and run a 10 and see which one give you better hook ups and less slack time when a loaded rod trips. I noticed an immediate and dramatic difference.

I have never heard of anyone ever feeling the advantage was to using a lighter weight when it comes to hooking and sticking a fish in the lips - which I would say is the name of the game.

Use the heaviest weight you can ........... thousands of Salmon fisherman with thousands of years of experience can't be doing wrong. See for yourself - give it a try.

[Mackinaw]

Originally Posted by RavYak

The downside to using a heavier ball is slack line once the release is tripped. I will try to explain.

When using a downrigger you control how much line you let out before attaching to the clip(lets call this L2), how much line you let out of your downrigger(L1), your downrigger weight and your speed.

The depth(D) and amount of blow back(B) are complex functions of speed, downrigger ball weight shape and line/lure/weight drag. Thankfully we can ignore all that for this situation though.

So you end up with something that looks like the following with L3 the remaining variable being the distance from you in the boat to the fish after it trips the release.



Now the math part. From simple geometry and pythagorean's theorem we know

D^2 + (L2+B)^2 = L3^2

and

D^2 + B^2 = L1^2

The first equation expands into

D^2 + L2^2 + 2*L2*B + B^2 = L3^2

From which we can then substitute the 2nd equation to get

L1^2 + L2^2 + 2*L2*B = L3^2

I will come back to this formula in a second. First we must realize that slack(S) in the line will be your total line out minus distance from fish so

S = L1 + L2 - L3.

So in order to decrease amount of slack line we want to increase L3.

Going back to the formula from before

L1^2 + L2^2 + 2*L2*B = L3^2

We clearly see that the only way to increase L3 given a specific L1 and L2 is to increase the amount of blow back(B).

This makes sense because as you decrease downrigger weight your blow back increases and approaches a line with no weight in which case you have direct contact with your lure(no slack).

Slack line is a killer especially if using barbless hooks so the fact you increased your hookups on salmon must have been because you were getting a better hookset I guess(more water resistance on ball and different angles of line on the release). Still trying to wrap my head around that, I will have to take your word on it since I don't have enough experience on that. I have however realized the slack line issue fishing for lakers and having to reel like mad after you break free form the release.

To the OP most people use heavier downrigger balls to better control their depth(less blow back means downrigger line out closer represents depth) and to reduce blow back so that the downrigger ball is visible in their sonar cone so that they believe they know what depth the ball is actually fishing at. I say believe they are fishing at because theoretically the fish finder should show the same depth as the line out because sonar only measures how far away an object is. This is also the reason a fish on a flasher almost always appears to come from below the lure when in fact they are approaching from the side(but due to angles are a longer distance from flasher and thus appear lower on the flasher screen).

Just food for thought, hopefully I didn't confuse too many people lol. I don't have enough experience to comment one way or the other what is the best weight although we prefer the 15 lbs(our heaviest) because it allows us to better control our depth being fished.

Unfortunately the only way to increase B and keep the same depth is to also increase L1 which in turn increases the amount of slack line when line is released . Heave ball is the way to go.

Mack

[RavYak]

So lets look at the math from a different way. Lets assume you want to fish 100 ft down. We have 3 balls. Ball 1 is the lightest and hangs at a 20 degree angle(from vertical). Ball 2 hangs at a 10 degree angle and the heaviest ball Ball 3 hangs at a 5 degree angle. Also we will need to assume a casted distance say 50 ft.

Ball 1

D = 100
B = 100*tan(20) = 36.4 ft
L1 = 100/cos(20) = 106.4 ft
L2 = 50 ft
L3 = sqrt(100^2 + (50+36.4)^2) = 132.2 ft
Slack after release = 106.4 + 50 - 132.2 = 24.2 ft

Ball 2

D = 100 ft
B = 100*tan(10) = 17.6 ft
L1 = 100/cos(10) = 101.5 ft
L2 = 50 ft
L3 = sqrt(100^2 + (50+17.6)^2) = 120.7 ft
Slack after release = 101.5 + 50 -120.7 = 30.8

Ball 3

D = 100
B = 100*tan(5) = 8.7 ft
L1 = 100/cos(5) = 100.4 ft
L2 = 50 ft
L3 = sqrt(100^2 + (50+8.7)^2) = 116 ft
Slack after release = 100.4 + 50 - 116 = 34.4 ft


As can be seen the heaviest ball(ball 3) has the most slack after release and the lightest ball has the least.

I am not questioning your guys experience I am just pointing out it is due to a reason other then slack in the line. As mentioned before my thinking would be that you get a better hook set(the heavier ball provides more resistance setting the hook better when the fish bites because more force is transmitted through the hook then into the water) and the difference in slack line probably doesn't have a huge difference because in reality a 20 lb ball vs 15 lb ball is going to have a very slight difference on blow back angle(probably less then 5 degrees which as shown above only adds a few extra feet of slack line per 100 ft depth).

[Mackinaw]

Originally Posted by RavYak

So lets look at the math from a different way. Lets assume you want to fish 100 ft down. We have 3 balls. Ball 1 is the lightest and hangs at a 20 degree angle(from vertical). Ball 2 hangs at a 10 degree angle and the heaviest ball Ball 3 hangs at a 5 degree angle. Also we will need to assume a casted distance say 50 ft.

Ball 1

D = 100
B = 100*tan(20) = 36.4 ft
L1 = 100/cos(20) = 106.4 ft
L2 = 50 ft
L3 = sqrt(100^2 + (50+36.4)^2) = 132.2 ft
Slack after release = 106.4 + 50 - 132.2 = 24.2 ft

Ball 2

D = 100 ft
B = 100*tan(10) = 17.6 ft
L1 = 100/cos(10) = 101.5 ft
L2 = 50 ft
L3 = sqrt(100^2 + (50+17.6)^2) = 120.7 ft
Slack after release = 101.5 + 50 -120.7 = 30.8

Ball 3

D = 100
B = 100*tan(5) = 8.7 ft
L1 = 100/cos(5) = 100.4 ft
L2 = 50 ft
L3 = sqrt(100^2 + (50+8.7)^2) = 116 ft
Slack after release = 100.4 + 50 - 116 = 34.4 ft


As can be seen the heaviest ball(ball 3) has the most slack after release and the lightest ball has the least.

I am not questioning your guys experience I am just pointing out it is due to a reason other then slack in the line. As mentioned before my thinking would be that you get a better hook set(the heavier ball provides more resistance setting the hook better when the fish bites because more force is transmitted through the hook then into the water) and the difference in slack line probably doesn't have a huge difference because in reality a 20 lb ball vs 15 lb ball is going to have a very slight difference on blow back angle(probably less then 5 degrees which as shown above only adds a few extra feet of slack line per 100 ft depth).

Where are you getting g the degree of angle without knowing boat speed water speed drag on lure is impossible to determine. Without knowing angle it is impossible to know what depth ball is at. With out knowing the pull of the fish you don't know how far back the ball will pull before release. With a heavy ball none of this changes.


Mack

[Scott h]

Over the years I have switched to braided line and 12 pound weights. Anything lighter and you can end up with your gear quite a ways up, especially if you cross into a oncoming tide. 15 seams to heavey and hard on my riggers and not nesesarry especially with the decreased drag using braid

[RavYak]

Originally Posted by Mackinaw

Where are you getting g the degree of angle without knowing boat speed water speed drag on lure is impossible to determine. Without knowing angle it is impossible to know what depth ball is at. With out knowing the pull of the fish you don't know how far back the ball will pull before release. With a heavy ball none of this changes.


Mack

The exact angle doesn't matter nor does the speed or lure. The only way to compare difference in balls is to have the other variables the same and given a certain speed, lure and depth a heavier ball will always hang more vertical(I believe we should agree on that). The only reason it wouldn't is if it had too much more drag(say made of a lighter material) but given our experience with downrigger weights I am going to assume we agree a heavier weight hangs more vertical. Then as you can see by this chart(instead of just a couple examples) the more vertical you are the higher the amount of slack after release.



Regarding a fish strike that is a bit more complex to prove using math(too many variables and non linear equations regarding the drag, speed, angles of line in release etc) but the primary forces involved would be drag, momentum and the cable tension. It seems to me anyways that logically a lighter weight will have more induced blow back because the fish will slow the balls momentum down more then it will a heavier weight. As an example if a fish strikes a 1000 lb downrigger weight it will likely have a negligible affect on the downrigger, but with a 10 lb weight I expect you do see the ball slow down inducing blow back. Again more blow back means less slack which means even due to a fish strike a lighter ball will have less slack.

Also this does agree with my experience although it is a different experience and less applicable to the OP's situation. When trolling in buddies boat at Cold Lake using heavy(15 lb) weights slack line is an issue. Our first couple trips out my fishing buddy was losing more fish then me because he was using a conventional baitcaster with lower speed ratio then my low profile baitcaster. When I would get a bite I could pop the line free and make up the slack line quickly whereas he would lose some fish before he could make up the slack line, he now uses a low profile baitcaster as well to make up for this. On the other hand when I troll with my downrigger on my kayak I use a 4 lb ball and my slack line is negligible, as soon as I break free I am instantly hooked up. This is a lot different then 15 lb vs 20 lb and although I have fished both about the same amount of line out I was probably not as deep with my 4 lb ball. It does agree with the math though which I am certain is correct.

[EZM]

Rav,

Here's my take on it .... Just using common sense, my personal experience and the experience and advice of those people who use downriggers and why they use heavier balls whenever and wherever it makes sense to do so.

There are far to many variables to consider beyond simple first year geometry and math - which, by the way, does not even remotely approach the amount of information, measurement and experimentation you would need to even consider presenting a hypothesis on this issue never mind a qualified argument based on explaining what is happening. There's just too many variables here.

The only thing that matters here is that the fish stick better when the release trips off a heavier ball at the same depth and set back compared to a lighter ball ......... period.

I bet the other thousands of guys who have a ton of experience, who are running the heaviest balls they can, will tell you same thing.

Making fish stick better is what the thread is about.

[SNAPFisher]

Originally Posted by EZM

Rav,

Here's my take on it .... Just using common sense, my personal experience and the experience and advice of those people who use downriggers and why they use heavier balls whenever and wherever it makes sense to do so.

There are far to many variables to consider beyond simple first year geometry and math - which, by the way, does not even remotely approach the amount of information, measurement and experimentation you would need to even consider presenting a hypothesis on this issue never mind a qualified argument based on explaining what is happening. There's just too many variables here.

The only thing that matters here is that the fish stick better when the release trips off a heavier ball at the same depth and set back compared to a lighter ball ......... period.

I bet the other thousands of guys who have a ton of experience, who are running the heaviest balls they can, will tell you same thing.

Making fish stick better is what the thread is about.

^^
x10 - so well said

Also, I don't know who is laughing their respective butts off at the formulas here but you can count me as one of them. Something about social media, this site is a form of it, to be socially accepted, you have to understand where you are...on a fishing forum...and not in a first year math/geometry forum (<- that I would never be caught dead on ). I'm pretty sure not many here are interested or impressed by presentation of formulas when experience counts for all.

[RavYak]

EZM it is not that complicated... If you were trying to mathematically determine exact numbers (say you wanted to calculate how much blow back a 10 lb ball will have) it would be extremely difficult but since we are making a comparison it is much easier because most factors cancel each other out. For example the curvature of the fishing line due to water resistance, this would be very difficult(practically impossible) to calculate the true length of line but in a comparison the lines will be at the same depth and will only have slight differences in angle/length resulting in negligible differences in the curvature of line. If anything it this would again support lighter ball having less slack because a more vertical line is going to have more bend... From an engineering aspect this is a very simple problem hence why it can be accurately approximated by high school trigonometry...

And like I said I don't question your guys findings that the heavier balls work better, like I said we like the heavier balls as well but for the primary reasons people use heavier balls(less blow back, less chance of about tangles, can see on fish finder etc). But I can all but guarantee that the heavier balls are not reducing slack as it defies the geometry of the situation.

If you don't believe me someone is going to have to test it. Run 2 different weights one on each side of the boat say 10 and 20 lbs down as deep as you can get them(set them at the same depth, bounce them on bottom somewhere I guess to figure out how much line needs to be let out of each one to be same depth). Use the same lure on each and use a lure that creates a large amount of drag. Then pull both rods free from their clips at the same time, quickly replace in rod holders and see which one loads up on the rod the fastest. Do it 20+ times to make sure findings are scientific and I bet you that you will find the 10 lb one loads up faster.

[RavYak]

Originally Posted by SNAPFisher

^^
x10 - so well said

Also, I don't know who is laughing their respective butts off at the formulas here but you can count me as one of them. Something about social media, this site is a form of it, to be socially accepted, you have to understand where you are...on a fishing forum...and not in a first year math/geometry forum (<- that I would never be caught dead on ). I'm pretty sure not many here are interested or impressed by presentation of formulas when experience counts for all.

I am sorry you don't understand high school math... Many of us on here do so please don't paint all hunters/fishers as mathematically illiterate...

If you don't believe the math go build yourself some stick models and check it that way...

Until then I will just use your guys argument and say no your wrong...

[SNAPFisher]

Originally Posted by RavYak

I am sorry you don't understand high school math... Many of us on here do so please don't paint all hunters/fishers as mathematically illiterate...

If you don't believe the math go build yourself some stick models and check it that way...

Until then I will just use your guys argument and say no your wrong...

Sorry I hurt your feelings.

Already contacted the OP and provided some good info on the area and I hope it pays off - i.e. the stuff / experience that is really helpful. Meanwhile you are still posting on here with formulas and pictures for someone...not sure who, and, the conversation was long since done. Have fun with that.

[Boatbuilder]

I have fished the north end of Vancouver island for the last 8-10 years and found that 15 pound weights worked best. I cast all my own cannonballs using wheel weights melted down. Much cheaper.

[Boatbuilder]

Powder coated orange

[Salmon Slayer Lenny]

Originally Posted by RavYak

Lenny is there any difference in humming noise or vibration between braid and cable? I have a small hand crank downrigger I use in my kayak but it gives off a pretty wicked humming sound that vibrates through the whole kayak.

I have been thinking of switching over to 100 lb braid instead(I only use a 4 lb ball) as it would be less drag and if the noise was reduced or went away that would be even more awesome.

I'd try a heavier ball to try to get rid of the hum, and/or add a 3025 downrigger weight retriever tie it off with some tension on your cable. http://www.scotty.com/fishing-gear-e...ghts-parts.htm

The hum is probably high frequency modulation. If you add more weight, the added tension on the line should help it either decrease all together, or increase the frequency so that it's not audible. (think of tightening a guitar string). With 10, 12, 15 lb weights, I've never experienced it. And yes, I'd agree that switching to braid would also help.