Chicken Co-op, Vapor Barrier

[Trochu]

I've got a question for the group. I'm setting a record for the world's longest chicken co-op build. The shed is built and tin has been ordered and is scheduled to arrive soon. This structure will never be heated but I am planning on insulating it. As it's a chicken co-op, there will be quite a bit of moisture inside and out and the door will be open most of the day, to allow the chickens in/out. Should I be installing vapour barrier on both sides (inside and out) of the insulation, just inside, just outside, neither, underlay for the roof? I'll be installing a vent for the attic, just not sure how necessary all the other stuff is as it will never be heated and open a majority of the time.

[Dewey Cox]

The problem with a chicken co-op is the chickens outnumber you, and you'll never have the votes to support putting down the old hens when they quit laying.
I think this is why you rarely see chicken operations using the cooperative business model.

[roper1]

We used a small hen-door at floor level, kept the building much warmer & them laying better in the winter. Cheap insulation with no vapor barrier.

[6.5 shooter]

To my knowledge a vapor barrier is a death sentence for chickens.

[EZM]

Generally, a vapor barrier is on the inside surface (inside of the insulation just like a conventional "heated" house).

However, if the shelter isn't heated - the purpose of the vapor barrier isn't required - which is to prevent condensation from forming on the inside wall causing rot, mold, etc.. as the cold air contacts a warm surface causing condensation (the same way you get frost around doors/windows on the inside of your house where there are small air leaks).

I've also, recently, seen many innovations (last couple decades) where the vapor barrier is applied to the outside of the structure with new building materials (zip sheathing, the impermeable new house wraps , etc...) - so as long as you don't "trap" moisture between two vapor barrier layers, it seems the basic principle will apply.

So - definitely don't put a layer inside AND out as it will cause more problems when/if the temperature differential causes some condensation = trapping moisture is a NO-No.

For a chicken coup ..... unheated .... I honestly wouldn't bother unless you are looking to help with air/draft protection.

[Reeves1]

No heat & you'll get frozen combs , feet & eggs.

Roost should be like a 6"+ log. If the roost is like a 2x4 or 2x6 with the sharp edges their toes hang over & freeze. With a log (even split in 1/2) will keep their feet/toes inside feathers.

Deep "duff" for them to scratch inside & can be cleaned out & composted for a garden. Compost for 2 years min.

[coolpete1]

my coupe is 8X8 on heated concrete , its got rock wool insulation in the walls and fiber glass in the roof , vapor barrier then osb , no moisture problems at all but there is a vent in the roof for fresh air to the coupe , mice will live in rock wool although they say they wont . since the insulation and barrier went in we've not had a frozen comb or toe and not lost a bird to cold or sickness. we screwed up at first with the heated floor by putting straw down , it insulated the heat from the birds and their water froze . chickens dont need heat but its pretty hard on them , losses come after it warms up. rock wool is not absorbant and not affected by moisture but i'd still use a vapor barrier on the inside so you dont get mold on the wood from the birds breathing.

[1hogfarmer]

Put a small sliding window in high up on a wall so you can vent it during warm days.

[ghfalls]

Mine is insulated with a small chicken door down low to get out, along with a 6x12” screened opening on the door for air movement. They get a heat lamp and when it hits really cold temps, I block off the chicken door overnight to hold the heat a bit better. I also put 2” styrofoam on the floor, then another layer of plywood with paint on it for easier cleanup. A linoleum floor would be nice for cleaning.

[nelsonob1]

If you insulate then you need to VB the inside wall. The chickens body heat will create the heat differential and moisture.

[Grizzly Adams1]

Originally Posted by Reeves1

No heat & you'll get frozen combs , feet & eggs.

Roost should be like a 6"+ log. If the roost is like a 2x4 or 2x6 with the sharp edges their toes hang over & freeze. With a log (even split in 1/2) will keep their feet/toes inside feathers.

Deep "duff" for them to scratch inside & can be cleaned out & composted for a garden. Compost for 2 years min.

Never over estimate the intelligence of a chicken.

[KGB]

A few years ago, I had a farmer coming to my store every week and picking up all the cardboard boxes that we had put aside for him. He said there is nothing better to use to insulate the chicken coop. He said that he tried pretty much everything else out there and this is the best option. He also used the wood shavings on the floor , 3-4” thick.
Don’t know how true it is but this is just what I saw.