Broadhead or mechanical?

lindenite · #1 05-12-2016, 10:12 PM

Hi guys!
As some of you probably know, I just bought a bow. Now, I'm wondering, what would be a good head to start out with if a guy was new to bowhunting? Broadhead or mechanical? I was kind of thinking just a simple broadhead might be best, like a Muzzy M3 or something similar, but I have no experience, and I'd like your opinions on what is a good head. My bow is a compound, 50 pounds, 29 inch draw.
Thanks!
P.S. I did so a search, but I came up with nothing. I there is a thread I missed, please feel free to post it.

Lefty-Canuck · #2 05-12-2016, 10:27 PM

You mean fixed or mechanical?

If your bow KE tops out over 60-65 and is over or close to 295-300fps, I would go mechanical.

Under 60KE and 280 or less fps I would go fixed.

....but that's just me.

LC

lindenite · #3 05-12-2016, 11:07 PM

Sorry lol! must have been a brain fart. Thanks for those numbers!

reddeerhunter · #4 05-13-2016, 12:28 AM

Nothing possible to go wrong with always shooting fixed. I have 15 shapeshifters and all the replacement stuff. Really want to try em on an animal but hard to.

bowhunter9841 · #5 05-13-2016, 12:58 AM

Slick trick standards, 100 grain, 4 blade, fixed broadheads. They fly just like field tips and the blades are super sharp! A lot of other great heads out there too. These are just what I prefer now. Never tried a mechanical head. I guess I just figure there's less to go wrong, when the blades are already there. Plus, slick tricks are a tad cheaper.

albertabighorn · #6 05-13-2016, 01:11 AM

If you dont want to have all the tuning issues that come with fixed go mechanical. As long as you have the KE.

Ultimate Predator · #7 05-13-2016, 04:09 AM

At 50 lbs I think fixed is your best option

58thecat · #8 05-13-2016, 06:14 AM

270 or 30-06 .....

Just kidding, less moving parts, less to go wrong, fixed it is!

Might have to spend a little at first to figure out what shoots accurately out of your set up though.

That's the fun part!

jlgsgw · #9 05-13-2016, 07:05 AM

Don't think I'd chance a mechanical with that setup, but they do make low K.E. mechanical broadheads for setups like yours, haven't heard any feedback on them yet though.

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lindenite · #10 05-13-2016, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bowhunter9841

Slick trick standards, 100 grain, 4 blade, fixed broadheads. They fly just like field tips and the blades are super sharp! A lot of other great heads out there too. These are just what I prefer now. Never tried a mechanical head. I guess I just figure there's less to go wrong, when the blades are already there. Plus, slick tricks are a tad cheaper.

That had been kind of what i had been thinking, too. But then again, i have no experience so...

lindenite · #11 05-13-2016, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 58thecat

270 or 30-06 .....

Just kidding, less moving parts, less to go wrong, fixed it is!

Might have to spend a little at first to figure out what shoots accurately out of your set up though.

That's the fun part!

Hey that's a good idea! I even have a 30-06!

Yup I expect to have to take a LOT of time practicing, and seeing what works in my bow.
Thanks!

L.O.S.T.Arrow · #12 05-13-2016, 08:29 AM

Mechanicals never fail...until they do...lol

seriously like suggest with your poundage and just starting out a solid fixed like the Muzzy or G5 striker, slick trick to name a few quality favorites out there... may be your best option

JMHO
Neil

lindenite · #13 05-13-2016, 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jlgsgw

Don't think I'd chance a mechanical with that setup, but they do make low K.E. mechanical broadheads for setups like yours, haven't heard any feedback on them yet though.

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OK. What would those be called, and by which brand?

lindenite · #14 05-13-2016, 08:47 AM

[QUOTE=L.O.S.T.Arrow;3228800]

Mechanicals never fail...until they do...lol

seriously like suggest with your poundage and just starting out a solid fixed like the Muzzy or G5 striker, slick trick to name a few quality favorites out there... may be your best option

JMHO
Neil[/QUOTE
Yup that sounds like solid advise.
Thanks!

jlgsgw · #15 05-13-2016, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lindenite

OK. What would those be called, and by which brand?

Rage 40ke, swhacker has a low poundage one now, rocket steelhead, grim reaper razor tip 1 3/8" are a few I've heard about , haven't tried any myself

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jlgsgw · #16 05-13-2016, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jlgsgw

Rage 40ke, swhacker has a low poundage one now, rocket steelhead, grim reaper razor tip 1 3/8" are a few I've heard about , haven't tried any myself

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Nap has a kill zone low ke I believe as well

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lindenite · #17 05-13-2016, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jlgsgw

Rage 40ke, swhacker has a low poundage one now, rocket steelhead, grim reaper razor tip 1 3/8" are a few I've heard about , haven't tried any myself

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Thanks!

Philistine · #18 05-13-2016, 10:37 AM

Id say Magnus Stinger either just 2 blade or 2+bleeder blades. when i shot your bow it seemed like it would handle them fairly well.

lindenite · #19 05-13-2016, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Philistine

Id say Magnus Stinger either just 2 blade or 2+bleeder blades. when i shot your bow it seemed like it would handle them fairly well.

If you say so...

cfinn · #20 05-19-2016, 10:00 AM

With your set up, stay with Fixed BH's, lots of good options. Watch some videos on tuning, it's pretty simple. If they arent hitting with your field points, your bow is out of tune and should not be pointing it at an animal. Mechanicals work good but still require a properly tuned Bow for solid flight. It's no different than shooting a gun that hasnt been sighted in properly.

Good luck and enjoy.

lindenite · #21 05-19-2016, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cfinn

With your set up, stay with Fixed BH's, lots of good options. Watch some videos on tuning, it's pretty simple. If they arent hitting with your field points, your bow is out of tune and should not be pointing it at an animal. Mechanicals work good but still require a properly tuned Bow for solid flight. It's no different than shooting a gun that hasnt been sighted in properly.

Good luck and enjoy.

Ok thanks!

Riverbc · #22 05-19-2016, 05:41 PM

If you find your broad heads and field points don't have the same point of impact, check this out. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...1606741?page=1

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L.O.S.T.Arrow · #23 05-20-2016, 08:00 AM

There is a few good posts here also if one takes the time to do a search..

Neil

kujoseto · #24 05-20-2016, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by L.O.S.T.Arrow

There is a few good posts here also if one takes the time to do a search..

Neil

And if we could get those threads set as sticky, we wouldn't have to use the unreliable search function

newdrenalin · #25 05-20-2016, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kujoseto

And if we could get those threads set as sticky, we wouldn't have to use the unreliable search function

x2

lindenite · #26 05-20-2016, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by L.O.S.T.Arrow

There is a few good posts here also if one takes the time to do a search..

Neil

I did do a search. I did not find any threads debating whether a fixed or mechanical would be better in my situation.

BobMarliesDonkey · #27 05-20-2016, 04:11 PM

There's lot of stuff on a variety of forums, but IMHO it never hurts to start a new thread with your setup and concerns if people are willing to reply.

I took up archery three years ago and learned that it's best to shoot the broad head you intend to hunt with well ahead of the season. It seems that lots of people start broad head tuning just before the season starts and, in doing that, I lost a lot of confidence in my set up making changes to my rest and sight just weeks before the season.

I've already started broad head tuning/practicing with broad heads in preparation for next september and have built up a lot of confidence in my set up and competence in my ability to tune it. So whatever you choose, I would say make sure to pick up a broad head target, to have one or two broad heads reserved as practice heads, and shoot them often.

In my short archery career I've range tested rage hypodermics, muzzy mx3s, g3 montecs, slick trick standards and slick trick magnums. If you have friends who like me keep broadheads to use as practice heads then ask to try them out - it will make your journey cheaper.

I like the idea of fixed blade broadheads but when I lost confidence in my tuning I always reverted to mechanicals (hypodermics in my case) as they are easier for a novice to dial in. The more experience you gain and the more you learn about tuning your bow can change your preference.

The slick trick magnums fly great out of my set up so I stocked up when I found a great deal online and they'll be my go-to for at least the next couple of years.

Have fun figuring it all out.

BMD

lindenite · #28 05-20-2016, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobMarliesDonkey

...
I took up archery three years ago and learned that it's best to shoot the broad head you intend to hunt with well ahead of the season. It seems that lots of people start broad head tuning just before the season starts and, in doing that, I lost a lot of confidence in my set up making changes to my rest and sight just weeks before the season.

I've already started broad head tuning/practicing with broad heads in preparation for next september and have built up a lot of confidence in my set up and competence in my ability to tune it. So whatever you choose, I would say make sure to pick up a broad head target, to have one or two broad heads reserved as practice heads, and shoot them often.
...
BMD

That was why I asked this soon actually!

Thunder/FX · #29 05-21-2016, 09:30 AM

I have never had a fixed broad head fail EVER!
Has anyone had a fixed broad head failure?
Has anyone had a mechanical broad head failure?

jlgsgw · #30 05-21-2016, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thunder/FX

I have never had a fixed broad head fail EVER!
Has anyone had a fixed broad head failure?
Has anyone had a mechanical broad head failure?

I dont wanna talk about it ....lol

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