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Old 06-15-2017, 07:40 PM
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Lerrooy Lerrooy is offline
 
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Default 2006 Ford?

Hey guys.
Never had a Ford before. Trying to get rid of my 94 Chevy half ton. Just getting to the point where how much money do you dump into it.
What do you guys know about a 2006 Ford F150. 5.4 V8? 4 door short box. 4x4
Looking at maybe getting this used one. Has 250k on it.
Probably needs a full service as the current owner doesn't know what the previous owner has done.
I was looking into it and spark plugs looks like a royal bugger.
Took it for a test drive tonight. The right the rod is loose. Windshield needs to be replaced. Doesn't turn over immediately. Sounds like a small exhaust leak on the drivers side when accelerating. Everything else works fine as far as I know. I'm not super mechanically inclined.
Anyone around Lethbridge that might be able to look at it if I buy it? It's listed at 6100 but I will probably offer 5 seeing as there might be a bit if work. Few dings and light hail damage. Left rear panel looks like the guy repainted some of it due to rust on the wheel well.
Curious if what the price would be for a full service as well?
Tires and wheels are new.

Thanks in advance
Your opinions would greatly be appreciated. Seems like the Chevys same year cost a bit more and are out of my price range
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Old 06-15-2017, 07:48 PM
Tfng Tfng is offline
 
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The 5.4 3v is troublesome. You've been warned.

Timing chain tensioners and cam phasers. If the timing chain guides break they plug the oil pump suction tube. If the tensioners leak they starve the top end of oil. The cam phasers are unreliable as well. Oh don't forget the spark plug debacle!

Otherwise good trucks.
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  #3  
Old 06-15-2017, 08:06 PM
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Lerrooy Lerrooy is offline
 
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How can you tell if those are going?
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Old 06-15-2017, 08:15 PM
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Ken07AOVette Ken07AOVette is offline
 
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if it is a 5.4 long story short you will regret it. Unless the previous owner was anal about oil changes every 4000 km it is going to need money.
Look for a 4.6 or 5.0 or 6.2, anything without cam phasers. Run from it unless it is full load leather mint and $1500 then spend $5g on a new engine.

There are a million of these trucks out there for a reason. I have seen several f150's in the 2009-2010 model years go for $5000 that were very decent.

walk away from this one

Every time I read your thread I see more wrong.

DO NOT BUY IT lol
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Old 06-15-2017, 08:21 PM
jstubbs jstubbs is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken07AOVette View Post
if it is a 5.4 long story short you will regret it. Unless the previous owner was anal about oil changes every 4000 km it is going to need money.
Look for a 4.6 or 5.0 or 6.2, anything without cam phasers. Run from it unless it is full load leather mint and $1500 then spend $5g on a new engine.

There are a million of these trucks out there for a reason. I have seen several f150's in the 2009-2010 model years go for $5000 that were very decent.

walk away from this one

Every time I read your thread I see more wrong.

DO NOT BUY IT lol
X2
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  #6  
Old 06-15-2017, 08:23 PM
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Lerrooy Lerrooy is offline
 
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Lol
Are they really that bad?
I dunno what to buy used now ha
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  #7  
Old 06-15-2017, 08:29 PM
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Grizzly Adams Grizzly Adams is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lerrooy View Post
Lol
Are they really that bad?
I dunno what to buy used now ha
I've got a 5.4, 2006, since I spent 3200. to get the spark plug issue dealt with, it's been a good truck, no problems and I'm pushing 300 K. Doesn't seem to matter what you buy these days, there are issues. Welcome to the era of the disposable vehicle.

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Old 06-15-2017, 08:45 PM
bb356 bb356 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ken07aovette View Post
if it is a 5.4 long story short you will regret it. Unless the previous owner was anal about oil changes every 4000 km it is going to need money.
Look for a 4.6 or 5.0 or 6.2, anything without cam phasers. Run from it unless it is full load leather mint and $1500 then spend $5g on a new engine.

There are a million of these trucks out there for a reason. I have seen several f150's in the 2009-2010 model years go for $5000 that were very decent.

Walk away from this one

every time i read your thread i see more wrong.

Do not buy it lol
x 5.3 !!!
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  #9  
Old 06-15-2017, 08:52 PM
260 Rem 260 Rem is offline
 
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Upper ball joints are a common problem with 250HDs.
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  #10  
Old 06-15-2017, 08:52 PM
Jack fish hunter Jack fish hunter is offline
 
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Stay away from a 5.4 3 valve. Dumped about 4 grand into mine and it still didn't run right. It had 170000 on it.
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  #11  
Old 06-15-2017, 09:40 PM
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Lerrooy Lerrooy is offline
 
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Thanks for your help guys.
So probably start looking at something else ha

I guess that's the kicker. If you never know how it was maintained its hard to say how long it will last :/
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Old 06-15-2017, 09:55 PM
Blastoff Blastoff is offline
 
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As your told stay away. Spend about double and get something newer with around 80,000 kilometers, not a ford truck guy, GM has treated me good.
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  #13  
Old 06-15-2017, 10:06 PM
bb356 bb356 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lerrooy View Post
Thanks for your help guys.
So probably start looking at something else ha

I guess that's the kicker. If you never know how it was maintained its hard to say how long it will last :/
What's the scoop on your 94 ... many klik's ???
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  #14  
Old 06-15-2017, 10:48 PM
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Lerrooy Lerrooy is offline
 
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343,000 km
Few things starting to go on it and at the point where I'm not going to get anything back on it when I do the repairs.
It's getting old. Doesn't handle that nicely.
Was thinking about if I got into an accident I might get hurt good too. No airbags lol
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Old 06-15-2017, 11:07 PM
bb356 bb356 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lerrooy View Post
343,000 km
Few things starting to go on it and at the point where I'm not going to get anything back on it when I do the repairs.
It's getting old. Doesn't handle that nicely.
Was thinking about if I got into an accident I might get hurt good too. No airbags lol
You bet ... just curios ... my buddie's got my old 95 with over 500,000 ... still going ...
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  #16  
Old 06-16-2017, 06:36 AM
artie artie is offline
 
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watch out for Dodge rust. Lots of Dodge trucks the box rusts out above the fender wells. A buddy pointed out that the only Dodge ram that does not rust badly are the black ones. Do not know why that would be.
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  #17  
Old 06-16-2017, 06:56 AM
coastalhunter coastalhunter is offline
 
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I'd buy a 6.0 before a 5.4 triton.
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  #18  
Old 06-16-2017, 07:51 AM
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That driver side leak you hear is likely an exhaust manifold leak; that's common too.

I had a 2005, it served me reasonably well - I bought it at just shy of 200K km for 8K.

I did the timing chains/tensioners/cam phasers myself (thanks to some parts from Ken) and had the rear limited-slip differential done twice in the time I owned it. Did the IWEs, had the transmission replaced, replaced the solenoids, plugs twice (first time, I had a shop do it for me because I didn't have the time/equipment to fiddle with them).

The engine locked up when it got close to 350K km. That was a sad day.

I still miss that truck, but yeah, I have a lot more free time now that I have a newer vehicle that doesn't need so much fixing. I'm actually ahead since my new vehicle uses less than 1/3 the fuel - driving over 25K/year, my fuel savings actually make the payments for me. YMMV, though...
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  #19  
Old 06-16-2017, 09:07 AM
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Ken07AOVette Ken07AOVette is offline
 
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AND- there is a bandaid fix that I did not know about, which works amazingly well, but got me twice.
If you run Royal Purple 15w40 in a damaged/ready to die 5.4 it will run and sound like a new engine. Everyone with a bad 5.4 knows this. I bought 1 just a while ago, no noise at all. Until I changed oil, put in 10w30 from Ford and all hell broke loose. Then I found out about the bandaid.
Midas Lloydminster told me for years about the bandaid fix, but I either didn't believe them, or did not want to run heavy oil for fear of wrecking the engine more.
I have an old 2007 5.4 that I use strictly for snowplowing. I used it the year before last and it barely held together. When the engine got warm, particularily crawling around at 5 km/hr for several hours it felt like it was going to rattle itself to pieces.
For winter 2016/17 I went to royal purple, and the damn thing ran like a top. Never missed a beat. It literally sounds like a new engine.
Be very careful buying ANY used 5.4, all the shops know this trick.
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Old 06-16-2017, 09:47 AM
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Stinky Buffalo Stinky Buffalo is offline
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Hah! Wish I knew that trick earlier, Ken!

There was one time where a fella at the diesel pump in front of me at the gas station went out of his way to let me advance to that pump, thinking my 5.4 was a diesel...
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  #21  
Old 06-16-2017, 09:52 AM
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Stinky Buffalo Stinky Buffalo is offline
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I was going to add, when you look at those older Fords, crawl under and have a peek at the fuel pump regulator module. The housing on those tend to corrode and disintegrate.



About $100-ish to get a new one, easy to replace.
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  #22  
Old 06-16-2017, 10:38 AM
35 whelen 35 whelen is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken07AOVette View Post
AND- there is a bandaid fix that I did not know about, which works amazingly well, but got me twice.
If you run Royal Purple 15w40 in a damaged/ready to die 5.4 it will run and sound like a new engine. Everyone with a bad 5.4 knows this. I bought 1 just a while ago, no noise at all. Until I changed oil, put in 10w30 from Ford and all hell broke loose. Then I found out about the bandaid.
Midas Lloydminster told me for years about the bandaid fix, but I either didn't believe them, or did not want to run heavy oil for fear of wrecking the engine more.
I have an old 2007 5.4 that I use strictly for snowplowing. I used it the year before last and it barely held together. When the engine got warm, particularily crawling around at 5 km/hr for several hours it felt like it was going to rattle itself to pieces.
For winter 2016/17 I went to royal purple, and the damn thing ran like a top. Never missed a beat. It literally sounds like a new engine.
Be very careful buying ANY used 5.4, all the shops know this trick.
I have a 06 f150 with 270k on been using synthetic 5:20 for about the last 4 are five years should I change to a different weight oil?

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
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  #23  
Old 06-16-2017, 06:18 PM
bb356 bb356 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artie View Post
watch out for Dodge rust. Lots of Dodge trucks the box rusts out above the fender wells. A buddy pointed out that the only Dodge ram that does not rust badly are the black ones. Do not know why that would be.
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  #24  
Old 06-16-2017, 06:44 PM
Tfng Tfng is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 35 whelen View Post
I have a 06 f150 with 270k on been using synthetic 5:20 for about the last 4 are five years should I change to a different weight oil?

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
It's my understanding that 5w20 is only recommended in North America. In Europe it's 5w30. It's a matter of fuel economy standards here driving the decision for a lighter oil not a matter of what the engine needs.

Ive been running 5w30 in mine and will likely switch to a 0w40 or a 5w40. (Even though mine doesn't make any noise)

With that said it seems like it's working for you with that many km on it.
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  #25  
Old 06-16-2017, 06:51 PM
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urban rednek urban rednek is offline
 
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Default Lots of good information already posted,

now for something completely different.
OT- don't buy the 5.4
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Fords on the road today.jpg (75.4 KB, 32 views)
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  #26  
Old 06-16-2017, 06:53 PM
jstubbs jstubbs is offline
 
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If anything, some good used trucks to look at are those first gen Tundras if you can find one for cheap. At work, we have a few, each with 300k+ km and they've been ABUSED to hell and back, barely taken care of, and they all still run good. Fairly good on gas with that V6 engine too and still have a bit of get up and go.
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  #27  
Old 06-17-2017, 05:08 PM
Suzukisam Suzukisam is offline
 
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Don't do it man. Remember the pinto. Or the amc. Both are better then 5.4 triton in those years. Even avid Ford owners have been telling you NO however if you own a big boat and you need a big anchor it could be a deal then
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  #28  
Old 06-17-2017, 08:52 PM
abenaki-warrior abenaki-warrior is offline
 
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Had a 2001 5.4l triton, at about 153k the rear spark plug got loose and about 1500 more k it came out. Cost a little more than 2700.00$. Took me a week to get it back. Should have had it looked at when the check engine came on. Then at 210k the reverse whent. I didint put nothing more into it. Bought a brand new super crew 2011 xlt.
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  #29  
Old 06-17-2017, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abenaki-warrior View Post
Had a 2001 5.4l triton, at about 153k the rear spark plug got loose and about 1500 more k it came out. Cost a little more than 2700.00$. Took me a week to get it back. Should have had it looked at when the check engine came on. Then at 210k the reverse whent. I didint put nothing more into it. Bought a brand new super crew 2011 xlt.
Funny I have a 2001 5.4 lariat and have changed the plugs once. Still running strong at just shy of 200000 miles so what 320000 km. Only thing I've hard to replace besides brakes shocks tires and windshields is the alternator plugs and battery. I change my oil every 4000 miles and use regular Castrol 5w-20. Truck isn't the best power wise or fuel mileage wise but it's paid for and works great.
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