Refinishing/ Restoring

[Off in the Bushes]

How to get these scratches out? It doesn’t look like it’s in the wood it just in the finish on the wood.

[fps plus]

Can try turtle wax polishing compound , may clean up a bit but looks like it needs a refinish

[Off in the Bushes]

Originally Posted by fps plus

Can try turtle wax polishing compound , may clean up a bit but looks like it needs a refinish

Ok so how is that done? Do you need to take the wood off the gun?

[MK2750]

Yes you need to remove the wood from the gun. I strip with Circa 1850 but it is hard to find the older stuff. The new environmental friendly stuff does not work as well.

I use a soft brass brush to assist on the checkering and an abrasive cleaning type media on the main wood.

Once the finish is removed the dents and scratches can some times be lifted with a damp cloth and an iron. You need to be patient and careful not to taint the wood colour.

If the scratches are too deep some sanding is necessary. Unfortunately if a stain was applied at the factory it can be very hard to bring back the spot. A person can lightly sand all surrounding areas to blend. Failing that, you can sometimes draw the stain out with some acetone.

Once you are happy with the stripping and repairs you can add stain if you like or start with oil. Be certain the stain you use is not part of a poly blend as you want it to absorb.

The same thing applies to the oil. The first many coats should be a natural oil that absorbs and protects the wood. I like Tung Oil but the real stuff without a poly hardener is hard to find and the advertising is misleading. I have also use boiled Linseed with good results. I often thin with mineral spirits to ensure proper absorption into the wood.

After I am happy with the look (several weeks usually) I switch to an oil with a poly hardener for the final finish. I use Tru-oil which ironically isn't a true oil or Minwax Tung Oil which also isn't a true oil. Both have hardener and harden nicely. They are quite durable and easily repaired down the road if need be.

I am in the middle of doing a nice old Parker Hale in 303. Lots of work but worth the effort.

[Off in the Bushes]

Originally Posted by MK2750

Yes you need to remove the wood from the gun. I strip with Circa 1850 but it is hard to find the older stuff. The new environmental friendly stuff does not work as well.

I use a soft brass brush to assist on the checkering and an abrasive cleaning type media on the main wood.

Once the finish is removed the dents and scratches can some times be lifted with a damp cloth and an iron. You need to be patient and careful not to taint the wood colour.

If the scratches are too deep some sanding is necessary. Unfortunately if a stain was applied at the factory it can be very hard to bring back the spot. A person can lightly sand all surrounding areas to blend. Failing that, you can sometimes draw the stain out with some acetone.

Once you are happy with the stripping and repairs you can add stain if you like or start with oil. Be certain the stain you use is not part of a poly blend as you want it to absorb.

The same thing applies to the oil. The first many coats should be a natural oil that absorbs and protects the wood. I like Tung Oil but the real stuff without a poly hardener is hard to find and the advertising is misleading. I have also use boiled Linseed with good results. I often thin with mineral spirits to ensure proper absorption into the wood.

After I am happy with the look (several weeks usually) I switch to an oil with a poly hardener for the final finish. I use Tru-oil which ironically isn't a true oil or Minwax Tung Oil which also isn't a true oil. Both have hardener and harden nicely. They are quite durable and easily repaired down the road if need be.

I am in the middle of doing a nice old Parker Hale in 303. Lots of work but worth the effort.

Great advice and thank you I’ll give it a try.

[huntinstuff]

If I sand or strip, I wet the stock by running it under the ojtside faucet, wash it off for a minute, then dry it with the stove or a heat gun

This raises "whiskers" in the wood..then i lightly rub the stock with 000 steel wool to cut the whiskers....

Then i run it under the faucet again, dry it, and rub it with the steel wool.

I sand with the grain. I 000 steel wool AGAINST the grain

After doing this wetting/drying/steel wool exercise 5 or so times, you will notice the wood is very smooth..

Apply your oil or whatever youre using. Tru Oil by Birchwood Casey dries within hours..

Double boiled linseed takes about 14 hours to dry.

Take pics!

[fps plus]

If you are going to try and just polish out with turtle wax you don’t have to remove the wood if you are careful. If going to refinish you will need to remove the wood .

If you do strip The BL -22 or prepared to see wood that is a very light colour. Most of them have a a stained finish

[Off in the Bushes]

Originally Posted by fps plus

If you are going to try and just polish out with turtle wax you don’t have to remove the wood if you are careful. If going to refinish you will need to remove the wood .

If you do strip The BL -22 or prepared to see wood that is a very light colour. Most of them have a a stained finish

Could/ would you use a buffing or polishing wheel on the wood?

[fps plus]

Never have I used a power buffer.

[partsman]

Try a little cutting compound, see how it goes first, rottenstone is also used in furniture, i would try rub it out first.

I have a bl22 that also looks like that, bought second hand from Nechako, but i have not bothered doing anything, they are my working guns.