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01-05-2015, 02:01 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Copperhead Road, Morinville
Posts: 19,290
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Snare Making
I picked up some cable and I have enough components from used snares to make it worthwhile making new ones. One thing that I'm wondering about is what is best to use as a stop at the snare end of the cable where the kill spring is. The snares that I bought this year have a steel stop and I've seen recommendations to hammer a hardened washer on. Is that the best route to go so the threads inside the nut cut into the cable or will a single aluminum ferrule do the trick?
How are you fellas making your snares?
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01-05-2015, 02:08 PM
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: prince albert
Posts: 1,843
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I use small washer then single aluminum ferrule
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01-05-2015, 02:11 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingrat
I use small washer then single aluminum ferrule
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Do you hammer the washer closed?
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01-05-2015, 02:22 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,046
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For myself, aluminum single stop swaged in place. I've changed my trigger position to point at lock. I've had a few instances of the trigger catching the ferrule on 1/16 cable. This also eliminates the washer needed on magnum springs.
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01-05-2015, 02:32 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Alberta
Posts: 1,252
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Not to derail your thread dave but good job asking questions on how to make your snares right. I caught a coyote this morning that had chewed out of somebody elses set up. He was is rough shape and I am glad i caught him to put him out of his misery. who ever made the snare used the wrong size lock for the cable they were using and it didnt lock up right. I question how long he was in the snare but thats another story. I know chew outs can happen but when you do things right they are less likely.
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01-05-2015, 03:07 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: On a farm
Posts: 1,572
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Single aluminum stop , no issues yet ! Swagged in place
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01-05-2015, 03:44 PM
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: prince albert
Posts: 1,843
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no i dont do anything to the washer its just so the spring pushes on that then the stop. I didnt know if they fought it hard if the spring would eventually fit over the stop if that makes sense so for the extra pennie i added a little washer the single aluminum stops seemed small I use 5-64 cable so thats why I guess I figured better safe then sorry
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01-05-2015, 06:22 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: near insanity
Posts: 836
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http://I like to use double ferrules and loop one end back that slips onto my extention swivel. No breakaways on these.
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01-05-2015, 07:41 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2013
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In reference to coycoyotes pic I turn the trigger piece the other way around. So the trigger hole is against the stop. Also due to my only hardware store only carrying a limited supply of single stops I use a double ferrel and loop back on through and make a really tight end and crimp. I found there were too many washers to fiddle with.
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01-05-2015, 08:13 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2014
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01-05-2015, 08:14 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: near insanity
Posts: 836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill9044
In reference to coycoyotes pic I turn the trigger piece the other way around. So the trigger hole is against the stop. Also due to my only hardware store only carrying a limited supply of single stops I use a double ferrel and loop back on through and make a really tight end and crimp. I found there were too many washers to fiddle with.
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I'm having better luck with my triggers pointing out. I've had them fire while setting a snare. they work extremely for me this way? I believe this is how senneker sets his up?
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Somewhere between ragged and right. Like a bus load of taxi drivers learning how to fly.
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01-06-2015, 12:01 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coy coyote
I'm having better luck with my triggers pointing out. I've had them fire while setting a snare. they work extremely for me this way? I believe this is how senneker sets his up?
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That is how Marty sets his up. He said in another thread it's because they tangle less. He also recommends turning it around if using 3/32 to prevent it catching the stop. I've had this happen with 1/16 but since you're using a double ferrule as a stop I don't think the trigger would be long enough to catch the end of it.
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01-06-2015, 11:36 AM
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Thanks for the tips fellas. I'm going to use a single ferrule against the trigger and I'm going to use those washers up that I have on hand and hammer one in behind the ferrule.
I'm not sure that I understand the reason behind turning the trigger around. Where is it hanging up on the ferrule, when you are setting the spring? Also, with a catch, wouldn't there be more resistance for the trigger to fire if the end is against the ferrule? It seems to me that there'd be more pressure on the end of the trigger if it's against the ferrule. I may have to experiment a bit and initially make a dozen each way.
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01-06-2015, 12:12 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2014
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It happens on a catch. The spring is over compressed and the tip of the trigger will catch on the outside edge of the ferrule. Not really common but I've had it happen enough to cause me to switch. Marty said they fire better pointed out but wasn't a big enough difference for him to deal with the extra tangling. I imagine he builds a huge number of snares for sale as well as himself.
I have pics and will try again after work to post one.
To be clear when the trigger catches the ferrule it renders the kill spring inoperable.
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01-06-2015, 12:20 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: near insanity
Posts: 836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HunterDave
Thanks for the tips fellas. I'm going to use a single ferrule against the trigger and I'm going to use those washers up that I have on hand and hammer one in behind the ferrule.
I'm not sure that I understand the reason behind turning the trigger around. Where is it hanging up on the ferrule, when you are setting the spring? Also, with a catch, wouldn't there be more resistance for the trigger to fire if the end is against the ferrule? It seems to me that there'd be more pressure on the end of the trigger if it's against the ferrule. I may have to experiment a bit and initially make a dozen each way.
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The reason I use double ferrules is I know how to open them back up and reuse them. I can't do that with a single. I don't like to use crimps with thread inside is if you flatten them to much they cut you cable off or they crack. Setting the triggers up this way I think it's easier for the spring to fire.. I know that these triggers fire real easy.
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Somewhere between ragged and right. Like a bus load of taxi drivers learning how to fly.
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01-06-2015, 05:58 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gman1978
Not to derail your thread dave but good job asking questions on how to make your snares right. I caught a coyote this morning that had chewed out of somebody elses set up. He was is rough shape and I am glad i caught him to put him out of his misery. who ever made the snare used the wrong size lock for the cable they were using and it didnt lock up right. I question how long he was in the snare but thats another story. I know chew outs can happen but when you do things right they are less likely.
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A friend had that happen also but around the neck.
Worse case of water head he ever seen.
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01-06-2015, 08:51 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,046
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You can see the trigger is caught on the stop in this pic. 1/16 with a magnum spring.
When I set that trigger it was on the side.
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01-06-2015, 09:59 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Alberta
Posts: 1,252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Battle Rat
A friend had that happen also but around the neck.
Worse case of water head he ever seen.
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battle,
It wasn't just water head, real nasty and I will spare the details . Just a good reminder to make your snares right. I have an idea who it might be but I do know that some dogs travel along way too. Like I said chew outs can happen but doing things right can help limit that.
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01-06-2015, 10:45 PM
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Banned
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Join Date: Dec 2009
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Thanks for the photo TFNG, I understand the issue now.
I think that I'll just make my snares the same as what I'm using now with a single ferrule on the end. I figure that if the system is not broken, why try to fix it.
I thought about turning the trigger around but it doesn't seem like a good idea to me. I'm thinking that it would result in more pressure against the tip of the trigger on the single ferrule and possibly effect the spring firing. With the tip of the trigger towards the cam lock, the tip of the trigger isn't jammed between anything so it should, theoretically, fire easier. Does that make sense or is my logic flawed?
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01-06-2015, 11:13 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,046
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From what you post above I would agree. The pic shows the way I was building them. I've switched so the tip points at the lock. I haven't had any issues with the trigger releasing with either trigger configuration on regular springs other than catching the stop occasionally.
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01-07-2015, 08:09 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 968
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my set up trigger on the side
close up of trigger and breakaway
the snare is taught around my hand and trigger is not touching the breakaway. Angle
Because of this thread I have built snares the exact way Marty does it in his video. Including all the washers.
I am going up north hunting elk and there is a lot if coyotes and the odd wolf. So I made my new snares with 600 lbs breakaway. ( in the chance a wolf is snared). So I will try both set ups. I am not trying to prove anyone wrong or to cause a stir but I have seen what TNFG has seen and I tried it same a current pics and haven't had an issue. Now I maybe lucky. Also out of the 40 yotes this year only 2 water heads.
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01-07-2015, 08:24 AM
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I just talked to a guy on the phone this morning that put his triggers on Magnums pointing at the loop and he is having trouble with them firing. I use the trigger pointing away from the loop and having no trouble at all with the device firing, in fact I have caught numerous fox with the Magnum and it has been going off for them.
So for magnum snares, I recommend to always point the tip of the trigger away from the snare loop/lock/BAD. Just a recommendation is all.
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01-07-2015, 09:18 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TFNG
You can see the trigger is caught on the stop in this pic. 1/16 with a magnum spring.
When I set that trigger it was on the side.
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Have you seen this Marty? This happened to me once then I turned the triggers around on my snares. Again I am not trying to cause issues or saying a system is bad or wrong.
I just want the best and quickest way to kill the coyote.
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01-07-2015, 10:33 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: near insanity
Posts: 836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty S
I just talked to a guy on the phone this morning that put his triggers on Magnums pointing at the loop and he is having trouble with them firing. I use the trigger pointing away from the loop and having no trouble at all with the device firing, in fact I have caught numerous fox with the Magnum and it has been going off for them.
So for magnum snares, I recommend to always point the tip of the trigger away from the snare loop/lock/BAD. Just a recommendation is all.
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I had two this morning that didn't fire.. first batch of triggers I put on facing in. Had one fire on a rabbit facing out. Maybe some coyotes don't take a run on the snare. Seems like they all react differently. So far I've had 5 that didn't fire out of 45. From looking at the cable I used it was the first batch I built with the trigger facing in. This morning I found something mind blowing. A dead coyote 10 feet from the anchor and blood on my extention and kill spring and the lock pulled tight in the middle of my snare. There wasn't a snare of the coyote. http://
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Last edited by coy coyote; 01-07-2015 at 10:42 AM.
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