axle flippping boat trailer thoughts

[wildalberta]

This year i purchased a 2014 tracker v18 and i hate the trailer it came on. Many electrical issues and surge brake system failure. Swing away tongue cracked. Anyway the ground clearance this thing has is useless for our northern lakes. Ive dragged it on many launches and likely some gravel roads as well. I dont see it being common but do guys ever axle flip their boat trailers? Obviously launching will get a bit tougher being a few inches higher but i dont see it being much of a problem.

[Big Grey Wolf]

Should not be a problem, if guys lift trucks and totally change dynamics then roar down road at 140km, a boat trailer at 100km will be walk in the park.

[barbless]

Take it in to get checked. The axle might be bent the wrong way from too much bouncing and over weight? Maybe beef up the springs? I am taking mine in to check wheel alignment and check if springs are not sagging. Was also thinking a heavier axle. From what I have heard and read the dealers who sell a trailer with the boat cheap out on that cost. I know only believe nothing of what you read, 1/2 of what you hear and almost all of what you see.

[EZM]

I haven't done it on a boat trailer, but have on a utility trailer.

You can even add longer U clamps and add a shim to get her up a little more too.

I am assuming there are no brakes or other lines to deal with.

The fenders won't need to be moved or anything else.

Easier going up compared to dropping down ….

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by wildalberta

This year i purchased a 2014 tracker v18 and i hate the trailer it came on. Many electrical issues and surge brake system failure. Swing away tongue cracked. Anyway the ground clearance this thing has is useless for our northern lakes. Ive dragged it on many launches and likely some gravel roads as well. I dont see it being common but do guys ever axle flip their boat trailers? Obviously launching will get a bit tougher being a few inches higher but i dont see it being much of a problem.

SELL trailer, buy a good galvanized tandem with 15 or 16" rubber from a quality company. Will end up being about the same cost or less and you will get ten times the trailer. Tracker makes a mid range boat and absolutely crap trailers. Roller bunks are easier to launch and recover but if you pull a lot on really rough roads, the bunk type trailers are much easier on the boat bottom, especially on Aluminum boats. Trick is to get the carpet on the bunks wet, makes launch or recovery way easier.

[Coiloil37]

Originally Posted by Dean2

SELL trailer, buy a good galvanized tandem with 15 or 16" rubber from a quality company. Will end up being about the same cost or less and you will get ten times the trailer. Tracker makes a mid range boat and absolutely crap trailers. Roller bunks are easier to launch and recover but if you pull a lot on really rough roads, the bunk type trailers are much easier on the boat bottom, especially on Aluminum boats. Trick is to get the carpet on the bunks wet, makes launch or recovery way easier.

Wet carpets good if you like friction. Next time your carpets NFG replace it with HDPE. Much slicker then wet carpet. There’s a company over here that sells it grooved so you don’t have to countersink the bolts. A 50mm x 3m strip is $30 and lasts longer then the trailer. You would have to poke around over on your side of the pond to see what’s available.

[wildalberta]

The axle is not bent. It is a straight square tubing job. Springs are fine as well. It does have the surge breaks that dont work anyway but id like to keep em intact for looks. I dont see buying and selling trailers to work out as a cheaper alternative as a u-bolt kit is under 50 bucks and something i can do myself.

[Dean2]

Yes, flipping the axle is pretty cheap to do, problem is, you have a higher riding crap trailer. Moving the weight further up on a single axle trailer is only going to increase the torsional stresses on the frame and mounting spots. You have already had problems with the frame cracking. The other issue you have is surge brakes that don't actually work. Most surge brakes take a lot of maintenance if you want them to work properly, that is why most trailers have electric brakes, but even those take some regular maintenance.

I spent many years hauling large boats into really remote places in Northern Alberta and in many cases the roads were absolutely terrible. It puts a lot of stress on the trailer. I know it is no fun to have bought a boat and then have to spring for a new trailer, but if you are hauling the boat a lot on rough roads, or even at highway speeds given how bad even our main paved roads are now, it is well worth the cost. Your choice as always, just my 2 cents based on real life experience.

Originally Posted by wildalberta

The axle is not bent. It is a straight square tubing job. Springs are fine as well. It does have the surge breaks that dont work anyway but id like to keep em intact for looks. I dont see buying and selling trailers to work out as a cheaper alternative as a u-bolt kit is under 50 bucks and something i can do myself.

[wildalberta]

Would electric brakes not be the best idea being constantly submerged? I have flipped axles on every rv i have ever had and notice no difference in towing abilities. Ive often wondered if adding shocks would be beneficial to a boat trailer at all either.

[nick0danger]

Originally Posted by wildalberta

Would electric brakes not be the best idea being constantly submerged? I have flipped axles on every rv i have ever had and notice no difference in towing abilities. Ive often wondered if adding shocks would be beneficial to a boat trailer at all either.

Yes, that is why boat trailers typically have surge breaks (its a sealed hydraulic system)

[EZM]

Unless your boat is over 5000-6000lbs you won't be seeing any true electric s breaks on any of them.

If your boat is under 3000lbs - I have seen these less expensive "package boats" without any brakes at all …………. not even a surge.

Even my ShoreLand'r upgraded trailer for my lund has surge over hydraulic. The electric is only used for the lockout solenoid and actuator. Seal Hydraulics and a "spring" in the sealed piston.

[EZM]

Just noticed your comments on surge failure - what's the issue there - I have dealt with brake issues on surges.

There are ways to either release the latch (override actuators) or use a magnet in the slot if your issues are backing up (up hill) locking. All are fixable, but having a few round magnets and/or duct tape will temporarily solve your problems until you can adjust your brakes properly.

I keep a half dozen round puck magnets stuck to the trailer tongue ready to go and they travel with me all over the world ………….. just in case.

Those pucks fit into the slot, effective locking out the slider (just like the key but in either (or both) directions depending on what's causing you the issues. I've been on some wild rough roads way up north and surge spring ended up rattling and loosening causing the actuator to squawk into action at the most inopportune times. A magnet fixed the issue temporarily.

If you don't have a way of locking these into an inactive position you may end of destroying your brakes, tires or whatever on your wild bronco ride.

[wildalberta]

Originally Posted by EZM

Just noticed your comments on surge failure - what's the issue there - I have dealt with brake issues on surges.

There are ways to either release the latch (override actuators) or use a magnet in the slot if your issues are backing up (up hill) locking. All are fixable, but having a few round magnets and/or duct tape will temporarily solve your problems until you can adjust your brakes properly.

I keep a half dozen round puck magnets stuck to the trailer tongue ready to go and they travel with me all over the world ………….. just in case.

Those pucks fit into the slot, effective locking out the slider (just like the key but in either (or both) directions depending on what's causing you the issues. I've been on some wild rough roads way up north and surge spring ended up rattling and loosening causing the actuator to squawk into action at the most inopportune times. A magnet fixed the issue temporarily.

If you don't have a way of locking these into an inactive position you may end of destroying your brakes, tires or whatever on your wild bronco ride.

all that has happened really is broken brake lines due to having 1 zip-tie from the factory supporting all the tubing off the frame rail.

[wildalberta]

double post

[Freedom55]

You might try slowing down on the grid roads. The higher you raise your vessel the deeper into the water you go to launch. This is problematic unless you (a) have a partner or (b) you enjoy wading. There is no joy in opening your truck door and letting the carpet flood.

Free