Free floating a barrel question

[JBE]

I refinished the stock on my Husqvarna 8000 series chambered in 270 this spring. While doing so I bedded the action and free floated the barrel. I finally had a chance to take it out to the range today. Best I could do were 3" groups. This rifle was always better than 1" if I did my part.
I took a business card folded over and slid it between the forend and barrel near the end of the forend.Back in business, 3/4" group consistently.
My question is should I just use a bedding compound to once again have the barrel make contact with the forend of the stock? Maybe just a pad about 1" in length?
Suggestions and advice appreciated

[elkhunter11]

In the rare instances when I needed to create a pressure point, I used shims to determine the height, and then used bedding compound to build the final pad.

[Dean2]

I have quite a few sporter weight barrels that are fully bedded from the recoil lug to the end of the forearm. Most guys don't believe it, but an awful lot of the sporter weight barrels shoot much better like this and the cold bore first shot will hit the same place the next 2 do, unlike many floated sporter barrels where the cold bore shot is quite a ways away. The reason most gun makers and smiths don't bed this way is it is quite a bit more work. If you check out New Ultra Light Arms website you will find Melvin Forbes does ALL his guns that way and they are known as great shooters for a Ultra Light gun with a thin barrel.

Long way of saying I would Devcon it from the recoil lug to the forearm since you know for sure it shoots way better not floated.

[260 Rem]

It can be tricky getting the correct amount of "up" pressure on the barrel. This is what I would do....
Tape off about a 1" section in the barrel channel close to the fore end. Apply a release agent to the barrel...and use bedding compound to create a "neutral bedding block" by assembling the barrelled action into the stock and using a torque wrench/screw driver to set the guard screws. Once set, I put a felt pen mark on the screws to make it easy to return the torque to the same setting. When the bedding compound is set, it will touch the barrel, but not create any pressure. Shoot to test for group. If not good, cut an aluminum shim (pop can works great), place it between the barrel and the bedding block....reset the torque....and shoot for group test. Keep adding shims ...testing each time ...until best result is evident.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by 260 Rem

It can be tricky getting the correct amount of "up" pressure on the barrel. This is what I would do....
Tape off about a 1" section in the barrel channel close to the fore end. Apply a release agent to the barrel...and use bedding compound to create a "neutral bedding block" by assembling the barrelled action into the stock and using a torque wrench/screw driver to set the guard screws. Once set, I put a felt pen mark on the screws to make it easy to return the torque to the same setting. When the bedding compound is set, it will touch the barrel, but not create any pressure. Shoot to test for group. If not good, cut an aluminum shim (pop can works great), place it between the barrel and the bedding block....reset the torque....and shoot for group test. Keep adding shims ...testing each time ...until best result is evident.

I use shims near the tip of the fore end to find the best accuracy, then put release agent on the barrel and shims, and glass about an inch next to the shims. Don't tighten the action screws, just snug them down slightly, so the barrel rests on the shims. Then when the compound cures, remove the shims, torque the action screws, and the result is usually very good.

[sns2]

Good informative thread of use to many now and in the future. Thanks, fellas.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

[leo]

I free float every rifle i bought, traded and owned. You can't expect the same performance from the same load before and after. You either need to work up a load or try different factory ammo until you find one that suits the harmonics of the free floated barrel. If you're close and have the components I'd be happy to show you the process I use. Sometime it's as simple as changing the bullet seating depth.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by leo

I free float every rifle i bought, traded and owned. You can't expect the same performance from the same load before and after. You either need to work up a load or try different factory ammo until you find one that suits the harmonics of the free floated barrel. If you're close and have the components I'd be happy to show you the process I use. Sometime it's as simple as changing the bullet seating depth.

I have only owned one rifle that I resorted to a pressure point on, but after many attempts at finding a load after floating the barrel, it just wouldn't do better than 1-1/4 moa , so I tried a pressure point. It didn't take a lot of pressure, but the groups instantly tightened up to 3/4moa for multiple loads. The rifle was a Vanguard MOA in 7mmremmag, that I bought used for a great price. It shot sub moa, but when I took the barreled action out of the stock, the bedding compound crumbled, so I decided to bed the action, and float the barrel.

[JBE]

Originally Posted by leo

I free float every rifle i bought, traded and owned. You can't expect the same performance from the same load before and after. You either need to work up a load or try different factory ammo until you find one that suits the harmonics of the free floated barrel. If you're close and have the components I'd be happy to show you the process I use. Sometime it's as simple as changing the bullet seating depth.

I have no problem working up a load to suit the free floated barrel (if it works out)but when the rifle shrinks a group that much with a pressure point I think I will try re-establishing that point, or at least try. I have had this rifle for 45 years + and 3/4" group suits me fine. Thank you very much for the offer but I think I will try this first, if it fails I might be back.
Thank you every one for your suggestions.