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  #1  
Old 11-18-2018, 06:41 PM
powersteve powersteve is offline
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Default Coyote help please

I'm fleshing a coyote right now for the first time and I need some help. It's much harder than it looked!

The biggest question I have is... how deep do I go? Have I taken too little/too much off?

There was a membrane over the whole hide under which was a thick white layer of fat. I scraped most of that membrane off except on the head where I couldn't get under it. Then I scraped most of the white fat off that was under it. However in some spots I now see 1/8" of hair on the inside, so maybe I went too deep?

Feedback appreciated.

Thanks!









Btw I think a part of the problem is that my fleshing beam isn't rounded enough. I was having to scrape on the edges and then I went too deep.
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Old 11-18-2018, 07:10 PM
HunterDave HunterDave is offline
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You pressed down a little hard where the hair is popping through the hide. After you push the membrane down exposing the fat, just go a little lighter taking off the fat. For now, don’t pull the hair out, just leave it like that.

The belly down by the penis is a lot thinner than other areas so take your time down there to prevent putting in holes. Go either side of the penis with your fleshing knife, not right over it. You can grab the penis area between your finger and thumb and cut the big chunk of fat/membrane with a knife.

Overall, i’d Say that you did pretty darned good for your first coyote! Figuring out how much pressure to use comes with experience and it may take some practice to really get a good feel for it. Under front legs and belly are a lot thinner than elsewhere. I think that you’ll pick it up pretty fast.
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Old 11-18-2018, 07:42 PM
powersteve powersteve is offline
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Thanks Dave. I definitely noticed it a was lot thinner towards the end of the coyote. I was pushing really hard to get the membrane off which made some holes. I didn't push the membrane the whole way because there was a massive amount of fat at the bottom which screwed me up (I went at it with a knife). Next time I'd try removing that fat first and pushing the membrane the whole way. Or maybe I could have left the membrane at the bottom as there wasn't much fat under it?

Definitely going to do a few more to get a feel for it!

Cheers
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Old 11-18-2018, 07:54 PM
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If coyotes are a little blue they tend to have hair come back through the inside easier than fully prime imo.
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Old 11-18-2018, 08:07 PM
5911ryan 5911ryan is offline
 
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https://youtu.be/E56TbpYR8lg

Hope this helps. Easier to see than to explain
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Old 11-18-2018, 09:10 PM
Marty S Marty S is offline
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Don't use a sharp blade, use a keen but dull edge and like you say, do watch your pressures. The back can take a lot more than the belly. I highly recommend a necker knife, but th cheaper MB knife will get it done just fine too. Don't use a Caribou flesher on coyotes!
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Old 11-18-2018, 11:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty S View Post
Don't use a sharp blade, use a keen but dull edge and like you say, do watch your pressures. The back can take a lot more than the belly. I highly recommend a necker knife, but th cheaper MB knife will get it done just fine too. Don't use a Caribou flesher on coyotes!
What don’t you like about the Caribou flesher?
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Old 11-19-2018, 07:36 AM
Marty S Marty S is offline
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Very sharp, I guess a guy could take the sharp edge off. At least the one I have is extremely sharp. It was made for rough skinned beaver.
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Old 11-19-2018, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty S View Post
Very sharp, I guess a guy could take the sharp edge off. At least the one I have is extremely sharp. It was made for rough skinned beaver.
Yes. Fair enough.
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Old 11-19-2018, 09:58 AM
powersteve powersteve is offline
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Thanks for the tips everyone. I will revisit these along with learning from my mistakes on the next coyote.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5911ryan View Post
https://youtu.be/E56TbpYR8lg

Hope this helps. Easier to see than to explain
I like that video, especially the part about it taking 30 coyotes before you get the feel for things.

Flipped the coyote this morning!



Wasn't able to get the rear taut on the stretcher last night, maybe because I let it sit too long before putting it on and it was already starting to dry. It was too wide.

Later today I will gently wash some of that hair around the exit wound and I'm going to pick up a hair brush.

Last edited by powersteve; 11-19-2018 at 10:09 AM.
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  #11  
Old 11-19-2018, 12:35 PM
bill9044 bill9044 is offline
 
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I'd suggest making or purchasing a beam. I use a round one. You want a beam that is smooth. No knots or cracked fenceposts. 5911ryan has a good beam making video if your a DIY kinda guy. I really like my Ron Post 2 handed fleasher. One side is dull and smooth. Other is sharp for those tough spots on beaver and badger. It's pricey but you do get what you pay for. I've seen guys make them out if flat bar steel and are proficient. It's not all the tool just how you use it.

I tell the old lady that... she says I need more practice

Bill
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Old 11-19-2018, 03:35 PM
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philintheblank philintheblank is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill9044 View Post
I'd suggest making or purchasing a beam. I use a round one. You want a beam that is smooth. No knots or cracked fenceposts. 5911ryan has a good beam making video if your a DIY kinda guy. I really like my Ron Post 2 handed fleasher. One side is dull and smooth. Other is sharp for those tough spots on beaver and badger. It's pricey but you do get what you pay for. I've seen guys make them out if flat bar steel and are proficient. It's not all the tool just how you use it.

I tell the old lady that... she says I need more practice

Bill
I will second the ron post flesher, made my fleshing way easier, my first knife was the crappy halfords one for 40 bucks or so. the $100 price tag on the ron post was hard to swallow until it tried it on a fat old coyote.
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  #13  
Old 11-19-2018, 06:43 PM
powersteve powersteve is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill9044 View Post
I'd suggest making or purchasing a beam. I use a round one. You want a beam that is smooth. No knots or cracked fenceposts. 5911ryan has a good beam making video if your a DIY kinda guy. I really like my Ron Post 2 handed fleasher. One side is dull and smooth. Other is sharp for those tough spots on beaver and badger. It's pricey but you do get what you pay for. I've seen guys make them out if flat bar steel and are proficient. It's not all the tool just how you use it.

I tell the old lady that... she says I need more practice

Bill
Where is this video at??

I made one just prior to fleshing this coyote:


But I think I did a poor job in terms of rounding the board and I suspect it would work better (with my curved knife) if the board was convex because then it would be identical no matter where on the board I was working. Although I saw lots of pictures online which were not very rounded.

Last edited by powersteve; 11-19-2018 at 06:50 PM.
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  #14  
Old 11-19-2018, 10:25 PM
HunterDave HunterDave is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5911ryan View Post
https://youtu.be/E56TbpYR8lg

Hope this helps. Easier to see than to explain
I watched this vid years ago looking for tips and it’s really good.

Just wondering though, why don’t you leave the ear buds on the carcass and save yourself from cutting it off? When skinning I found that if you put weight on the hide until it stops, the hide will pull down past the bud and part way up the ears. Then you just have to cut across the back of the ears and you are just left with a piece of cartilage to cut out.

Not trying to be a smart ass, everyone has their own way of doing things, I just find that doing it that way saves you an extra step.

Last edited by HunterDave; 11-19-2018 at 10:53 PM.
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  #15  
Old 11-20-2018, 03:20 PM
bill9044 bill9044 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powersteve View Post
Where is this video at??

I made one just prior to fleshing this coyote:


But I think I did a poor job in terms of rounding the board and I suspect it would work better (with my curved knife) if the board was convex because then it would be identical no matter where on the board I was working. Although I saw lots of pictures online which were not very rounded.
https://youtu.be/AIlFGdQjvNE your beam looks good but I think it needs to be more rounded. Not rounded edges nice consistent curve. Some guys use a 4"pvc pipe.

Bill.
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  #16  
Old 11-20-2018, 05:27 PM
powersteve powersteve is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill9044 View Post
https://youtu.be/AIlFGdQjvNE your beam looks good but I think it needs to be more rounded. Not rounded edges nice consistent curve. Some guys use a 4"pvc pipe.

Bill.
That is a nice video.

Here's the profile I'm thinking to put on my board:


I don't think I can do it with a belt sander, but hopefully with a table saw.
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  #17  
Old 11-20-2018, 07:58 PM
HunterDave HunterDave is offline
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2" x 6" cut to 4.5" wide. I wouldn't go wider unless you are going to make a smaller one for fox. I stenciled a coyote board onto it and cut out the pattern. Cut edges at 45 degrees with a skill saw and then belt sanded to round it out. Cheap and easy to make. Getting a little thin where the knife comes off the pelt at the bottom and I'll probably have to make a new one sometime this season.

Not fancy but it works just fine and all that I need.

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