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Old 08-20-2018, 06:35 PM
Hogie135 Hogie135 is offline
 
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Default Right tear wont go away

I'm getting a consistantly right tear while paper tuning. Rest adjustment does nothing. What else could it be other than form?
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Old 08-20-2018, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Hogie135 View Post
I'm getting a consistantly right tear while paper tuning. Rest adjustment does nothing. What else could it be other than form?
What Bow?
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Old 08-20-2018, 07:01 PM
Hogie135 Hogie135 is offline
 
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Hoyt power max. New strings which jimbows put on for me couple weeks ago.
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Old 08-20-2018, 07:08 PM
wcbarker wcbarker is offline
 
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throw the paper away what is your grouping like at 20,30,40. If they are good why worry
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Old 08-20-2018, 07:11 PM
Hogie135 Hogie135 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by wcbarker View Post
throw the paper away what is your grouping like at 20,30,40. If they are good why worry
Groups are decent but noticed I have a small porpoise in my arrows as they fly so wanted to paper tune to see what's happening
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Old 08-20-2018, 07:36 PM
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You will likely have to toke tune to get rid of that tear. Best to go to a shop and see if they can help you out.

Norm
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Old 08-20-2018, 07:49 PM
Hogie135 Hogie135 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by normanrd View Post
You will likely have to toke tune to get rid of that tear. Best to go to a shop and see if they can help you out.

Norm
I'm not close to a shop. I can sort it out on my own just need some pointers on where to look.
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Old 08-20-2018, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Hogie135 View Post
I'm not close to a shop. I can sort it out on my own just need some pointers on where to look.
Look up yoke tuning on archery talk. There is tons of info there. You will have to put your rest back to the middle though, usually ends up 13/16" or there abouts. After that you twist one yoke (in this case I would try the right first) and un-twist the other the same amount and see what effect It has on the tear. This is the way all hoyts should be paper tuned imo. There shouldn't be a need to move the rest from center.you can even walk back yoke tune if you want, although if you bare shaft yoke tune from the get go there is not a need for anything else.

Jmo,

Norm

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Old 08-20-2018, 08:22 PM
Hogie135 Hogie135 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by normanrd View Post
Look up yoke tuning on archery talk. There is tons of info there. You will have to put your rest back to the middle though, usually ends up 13/16" or there abouts. After that you twist one yoke (in this case I would try the right first) and un-twist the other the same amount and see what effect It has on the tear. This is the way all hoyts should be paper tuned imo. There shouldn't be a need to move the rest from center.you can even walk back yoke tune if you want, although if you bare shaft yoke tune from the get go there is not a need for anything else.

Jmo,

Norm

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Just put full twist in right yoke and took full twist out of left no change.
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Old 08-20-2018, 08:55 PM
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Are you shooting the proper arrow spine.. what about point weight? Spine could be wrong or point weight could be changing the spine too much.
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  #11  
Old 08-20-2018, 09:32 PM
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Just put full twist in right yoke and took full twist out of left no change.
Did you re-center your rest?

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Old 08-20-2018, 09:50 PM
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Just put full twist in right yoke and took full twist out of left no change.
I just had a look. I have 5 hoyt compound bows 3 of which are target bows, all cam and a half and the left yoke has anywhere from 4 to 6 more twists than the right leg of the yoke. Needless to say they all have different amounts of top cam pre lean, but all have the top of the top cam leaning to the left to some degree. This is a good place to start. All have been bare shaft tuned through paper out to 10 yards and all fly arrows like darts. I also use a laser device to set the center shot

Make sure your center shot is good and start twisting!

Norm
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Old 08-20-2018, 10:53 PM
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If I recall a previous post of yours you purchased a bowmaster press? Did you build yourself a draw board? Very easy, with a 2x4, threaded 3/4" plumber pipe 6" longs, base plate for the plumber pipe, and a cheap hand boat winch. (youtube or Archery Talk DIY section.)

1. Max out your limb bolts

2. Measure for factory specs and adjust as necessary (Youtube)

3. Set center shot at 13/16

4. Run bottom of arrow through center of berger hole set nock height at 1/16 to 1/8 high (Youtube)

5. Set desired draw weight with equal turns out of the limb bolts.

6. Check timing for cable stops (Draw Board).

7. Check cam pre-lean. Lay an arrow along the the left side of the top cam (right hand shooter). The tip of the field point should touch the middle of the string at the center of your d-loop. Add twist to the required yoke legs to adjust cam lean at rest (youtube)

8. Shoot thru paper. Adjust up/down tears first by micro adjusting your rest. Then correct left/right tears by yoke tuning. Right tear, add twist to right leg. Left tear, add twist to left leg. You do not need to remove a twist from the left if you add 1 to the right. But if you add more than 3 full twist from factory set to 1 leg, than start removing twist from the alternate leg.

Yoking tuning allows you to put the string directly in line with the natural power stroke of the bow. Bows without yokes need to "shim" the cams left or right to achieve the same results

9. Once you have a bullet hole, strip the fletching of an arrow and repeat step 8 with a bare shaft. Once you get a bullet hole bare shaft, go shoot a fletched and bare shaft and 20 yards and see the results.

10. If none of this works, then it might be your draw length or d-loop length. Lengthing your d-loop or draw length can clean up a right tear for a right handed shooter.


And most important, if you get frustrated or tired, take a break and come back tomorrow.

Last edited by brendan's dad; 08-20-2018 at 11:10 PM.
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  #14  
Old 08-21-2018, 12:29 AM
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Make sure it’s not something in your grip.

LC
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Old 08-21-2018, 07:48 PM
timbertom timbertom is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogie135 View Post
I'm getting a consistantly right tear while paper tuning. Rest adjustment does nothing. What else could it be other than form?
Have you checked your nock fit to your string if nock is to tight that could do it . There lots info on net about nock being to tight. Been there .....with last new arrows had a old guy moment and could not get good group scratched the last of my hair off head till one shoot loading arrow hear a load click..click putting arrow on string..#%'$...forgot something been doing last 20 + years archery check nock fit. Soon fixed that a group iwas happy with. Just what worked for me.
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Old 08-27-2018, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck View Post
Make sure it’s not something in your grip.

LC
Yup, keep it simple and go from there....
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Old 08-27-2018, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 58thecat View Post
Yup, keep it simple and go from there....
I 100% agree with the “grip” issue, but it is a little late in the game to start changing grip or form for this season. In the moment of truth he will go right back to his current grip. Alternatively a bow can be tuned for a “bad” grip as long as that “bad” grip is consistent.
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Old 08-27-2018, 09:59 AM
Hogie135 Hogie135 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by brendan's dad View Post
I 100% agree with the “grip” issue, but it is a little late in the game to start changing grip or form for this season. In the moment of truth he will go right back to his current grip. Alternatively a bow can be tuned for a “bad” grip as long as that “bad” grip is consistent.
Well to be honest, I was sure of my form before but most of my issue was form. I have it figured out. I haven't retried the paper tune but my arrows are flying a lot better now and groups have tightened right up.

It was my release hand. I somehow developed this habit of turning my release hand out (rotating my thumb away from face) thus slightly moving my arrow out on the rest. I'm much more consistant with it now so I shouldn't have this issue again. I'll get more in depth with tuning after this season is over, throughout the winter.

Thanks for all the advice though. Still lots to learn about tuning a bow but i'll get there.
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  #19  
Old 08-27-2018, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brendan's dad View Post
I 100% agree with the “grip” issue, but it is a little late in the game to start changing grip or form for this season. In the moment of truth he will go right back to his current grip. Alternatively a bow can be tuned for a “bad” grip as long as that “bad” grip is consistent.
Never too late to adjust slightly, better than dismantling the bow chasing a demon that's right in your hand as th OP experienced, your right though he/she will need to shoot lots to undo the bad habit and Instill better muscle memory.
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Old 08-27-2018, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogie135 View Post
Well to be honest, I was sure of my form before but most of my issue was form. I have it figured out. I haven't retried the paper tune but my arrows are flying a lot better now and groups have tightened right up.

It was my release hand. I somehow developed this habit of turning my release hand out (rotating my thumb away from face) thus slightly moving my arrow out on the rest. I'm much more consistant with it now so I shouldn't have this issue again. I'll get more in depth with tuning after this season is over, throughout the winter.

Thanks for all the advice though. Still lots to learn about tuning a bow but i'll get there.
Glad you got it figured out, good luck this season.
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