I just don’t get it

[Don Andersen]

Been FFing for 65 years and I’m confused at the choices many take in the selection of equipment.
To put the question into perspective, hunters select the bullet type/weight for the quarry.
They know through sad experience that a 22 and elephants don’t work.

FF types seem to have a whole new selection system.

However, the line/reel,rod selection should be based on the flies and where the flies are to be used.
The weight of flies determines line weight required to cast them.
The reel is selected for its ability to contain the line plus adequate backing/drag depending on the quarry.
The rod is selected for its ability to cast the line with consideration of wind, distance required to cast and cost.
Several things to be born in mind, cheap rods have crappy cork, soft guides and possible defects in materials.
Reels, even very cheap ones, will work just fine.
Lines last depending on how they are used. I get about 250 days out of a top line Scientific Anglers line. I don’t step on them, clean them occasionally.

Regards,

Don

[SNAPFisher]

Agree on the type of fly you are casting and rod/line suggestion. That said, I've forgotten roads on some road trips and ended up using a 5 wt to cast some huge weighted streamers and did just fine. Better than most that were out. Some of them had 9 wts....
Fish don't care either way.

Some skill in understanding the casting mechanics will help no matter what and I'm glad I have that.

And to me, it is the entire package that makes one successful. What surprises me the most is how few check out the feed. What types of bugs, minnows, etc. Throat sampling, when needed, is invaluable. I have a buddy I go with who doesn't even own one... Now that I do not get. Granted, if one is just happy getting and flogging until the arm is sore with little to show, so be it

[FlyTheory]

I’m not sure. I think there isn’t such a black and white line for rod wt application. Yes, all that you stated holds true, but there are other considerations on top of what you stated. What you’re fishing for really is a component that can’t be disputed i.e. a 14ft 9wt Spey is great for long casts with traditional Spey lines, but isn’t very useful for casting 95’ out to rising mooneye in the NSR, but in the river tweed, it’s perfect because the salmon will put enough bend in the rod to stay pinned.

[Mr Flyguy]

Originally Posted by Don Andersen

Been FFing for 65 years and I’m confused at the choices many take in the selection of equipment.
To put the question into perspective, hunters select the bullet type/weight for the quarry.
They know through sad experience that a 22 and elephants don’t work.

FF types seem to have a whole new selection system.

However, the line/reel,rod selection should be based on the flies and where the flies are to be used.
The weight of flies determines line weight required to cast them.
The reel is selected for its ability to contain the line plus adequate backing/drag depending on the quarry.
The rod is selected for its ability to cast the line with consideration of wind, distance required to cast and cost. he
Several things to be born in mind, cheap rods have crappy cork, soft guides and possible defects in materials.
Reels, even very cheap ones, will work just fine.
Lines last depending on how they are used. I get about 250 days out of a top line Scientific Anglers line. I don’t step on them, clean them occasionally.

Regards,

Don

Not sure if I agree with everything here, especially the high lighted sentence.
I usually select the rod out of my modest ( inventory to match the quarry. For example, lately I've been using a 9ft 7wt on a trout lake where the chances of running into some >20 inch trout are very good and I want to be able to have some control (my anchor rope is like a magnet). The size of the fly has nothing to do with the rod since I'm flipping an indicator with balanced leech and chironomid (down to size 16) combo.

I certainly won't take any 4 wt weight to that lake but I will use such on a lake were the max size is maybe 15/16 inches and with the right line I can a flip a #8 streamer to the edges.

As far as quality is concerned, as least with FF equipment you seem to get what you pay for, although eons ago, all I could afford was an el cheapo glass rod and seemed to have as much fun and success as now much fancier equipment...must be talent.

[Don Andersen]

Originally Posted by FlyTheory

I’m not sure. I think there isn’t such a black and white line for rod wt application. Yes, all that you stated holds true, but there are other considerations on top of what you stated. What you’re fishing for really is a component that can’t be disputed i.e. a 14ft 9wt Spey is great for long casts with traditional Spey lines, but isn’t very useful for casting 95’ out to rising mooneye in the NSR, but in the river tweed, it’s perfect because the salmon will put enough bend in the rod to stay pinned.

A Spey rod is a specialized piece of equipment useful in vary few places.
Similar to Tenkara rods.
For the bulk of trout fishing 1>3 weight rods are specialize equipment as are line weight rods 9>14used for toothy or very large fish.

Don

[FlyTheory]

Originally Posted by Don Andersen

A Spey rod is a specialized piece of equipment useful in vary few places.
Similar to Tenkara rods.
For the bulk of trout fishing 1>3 weight rods are specialize equipment as are line weight rods 9>14used for toothy or very large fish.

Don

That was just an extreme example that I used to hone my point. But I’m now slightly confused at your argument since you initially said that wt should be used for application to conditions and not spp of fish, now you’re applying it to spp of fish. I just don’t get it either

[thumper]

Water temperature also has an influence of rod size. By mid-summer when the water's getting warmer, I want to be able to play a fish quickly & release it sooner - so I use a heavier rod.

Also aesthetics comes into play for all aspects.
Just as I like to shoot a fine looking, well made Beretta shotgun with a beautiful wood grain stock - I also enjoy handling a well made, attractive rod,(Canadian made, if possible), a beautifully machined, superbly functioning Canadian reel with a well made, well proportioned, self hand-tied fly - preferably made with natural materials. Don't forget a Canadian Moby net !

It's all about the total experience - which for me, starts at the tying bench.

[flyrodfisher]

@Don
The responses prove your point…..

[huntsfurfish]

OMG, the horror

[SNAPFisher]

Originally Posted by huntsfurfish

OMG, the horror

[Mr Flyguy]

Originally Posted by flyrodfisher

@Don
The responses prove your point…..

Huh? Who gives a tailing loop, just get out there with what you have and fish!

[FlyTheory]

I bet you opinion is also largely based on age bracket as well.

[Don Andersen]

Nope, based on fishing experience,

Don

[Big simmy]

just joined wondering if anyone has had any luck in central alberta this spring

[Outbound]

Whatever works for people I guess. I've used a 5wt for pink and coho salmon on the BC coast. It worked well, since the flies tended to be smaller. You had to play the fish more carefully though and if they got into fast current, look out.

The only time I wonder about other people's gear choices is when I see someone new to fly fishing buying a cheap fly rod combo at Canadian Tire. More often than not, it's not an entry level Dragonfly set up or something. It'll be some cheapo Shakespeare or whatever, and the rod has the same diameter and action as my Shimano Technium salmon rod and a line that is so poorly matched you may as well be casting a 3wt line on an 8wt rod. All this leads to is total frustration for a newbie and them giving up on the sport.

[FlyTheory]

Originally Posted by Don Andersen

Nope, based on fishing experience,

Don

Can you still please elaborate on the point I asked previously? I would like to clarify everything.

Thanks.

[58thecat]

Originally Posted by Big simmy

just joined wondering if anyone has had any luck in central alberta this spring

well welcome and enjoy rookie

cant comment on your question but around these neck of the woods people are enjoying the sport of angling….ffing too....

[Seige]

fortunately like my firearms, err I mean the ones I used to have. I've been able to collect the proper tool for the job. how I choose them are fairly simple, or as scientific as I may feel, really. yet to me it all comes down to:

For Rods
- Species targeted, secondary: bycatch capabilities.
- Body of Water. Size, depth, CURRENT and CFM, or not. Where in the water columnr

Lines
- Match the Rod. (wether you line up or down is your choice. I prefer a little heavier line usually, yet no more than two rod sizes difference. but that's me.
- depending on the body of water and which process I am utilizing at the time. Spey with running lines, shooting heads, sink tips, floating or Tenkara.
- where in the water column am I targeting. Speed of Current or not, and weight of the fly I will be casting.

Flies
- Process utilized: Dry, Nymph, swung Streamer or Wet. Spey
- Size (to match or entice)
- Shape("")
- Colour("")

Hook
- Size of fly.
- size of targeted species.

but that's me, do I pull out the 8wt 13'6" Meiser on a large body of quick moving water, when there are Chinook or large Steelhead in the river system at the time, or is it late summer/early fall on another with my Hardy 5wt targeting big browns in knee deep or less water. Or targeting Tigers in Man, with a 6 or 7wt flipping chironomids in a lake with very little actual moving current.

We can make it as simple or technical as we wish nowadays. no longer merely tapered, or double tapered. Or Long bellies, or weight forward.

The only thing I truly frown upon, using too light of a rod and line setup. I don't care if you can land a stocker in a pond with a "000" wt rod. Or most likely kill the Steelhead, or monster Bull trout trying to get it to hand with a 4wt regardless if you where able to get the fly out there or not! pi*ses me right off!!

its fantastic we have so many choices to use. its also another endless money pit.
Having graduated from "Misty River" from Canadian Tire as a young fella to, SA, and Temple Fork, to Hatch, and now everything I choose to own is Hardy, made in England and even Korean made Hardy's with the disc drag for the boat. Why? Nostalgia perhaps. Meiser, and of course 7wt 13'3" Burkie.

Warranties, Customer service, and quality.
Being an extension of my arm it makes not a difference what the brand name says to the fish, or in ones ability to hook the fish... Yet as stated.. we do get what we pay for in most times also. And we owe it to the fish to use the highest quality equipment we may afford.

Just my thoughts. Tight lines and may your reels scream.

J

[Don Andersen]

Originally Posted by FlyTheory

Can you still please elaborate on the point I asked previously? I would like to clarify everything.

Thanks.

How about 110>120 days each year for the past 45 years fishing, if I recall every stream and river, 80 streams from the 49th to Peace River plus another 60 lakes or ponds. That doesn’t include Sask, Manitoba, BC, Montana, Wyoming, NWT or Idaho.
In that time the yearly average of fish according to my written records was <>1100 with years exceeding 1600 and some years 900.
I fish with rods that are on their third set of guides and I install the best there is. One rods on my web site may have landed over 5,000 trout.
Like I said, experience.

Don

[FlyTheory]

Originally Posted by Don Andersen

How about 110>120 days each year for the past 45 years fishing, if I recall every stream and river, 80 streams from the 49th to Peace River plus another 60 lakes or ponds. That doesn’t include Sask, Manitoba, BC, Montana, Wyoming, NWT or Idaho.
In that time the yearly average of fish according to my written records was <>1100 with years exceeding 1600 and some years 900.
I fish with rods that are on their third set of guides and I install the best there is. One rods on my web site may have landed over 5,000 trout.
Like I said, experience.

Don

Don, I’m sorry, but you’re not answering my initial questions. As for experience, we all have had many experiences and those are anecdotal. I have FF’d all over the world as well, India, Iceland, Amazon, Central America, Alaska, Bahamas, Washington, Oregon and all over western and northern Canada. Is it anecdotal then? Is my opinion moot because I’ve fished for more than just salmonids? I don’t understand this thread, but thanks for your feedback. Sorry we couldn’t converse properly.

Thanks.

[Tcon]

When fishing internationally I am generally equiped with the consensus of recommendations I am finding on the web prior to my departure. This goes for fly selection as well. Though, I do tie some experimental flies that I think would work for the fishery.

In regards to a reel, as you stated, depending on the quarry the drag is significantly important. People often neglect to consider rod balance when selecting a reel which in my opinion leads to a more pleasurable experience. This is especially noticable when using two handed rods.

In all honesty, I could careless what people use. It's not my business; use what you have, use what you want. Though, I would recommend that if you have to worry about your rod breaking because of your quarry that its time to increase that rod weight. Based on my observations, most people never really use a fraction of their rods fighting capabilities in Alberta anyway.

[walking buffalo]

Originally Posted by Don Andersen

Been FFing for 65 years and I’m confused at the choices many take in the selection of equipment.
To put the question into perspective, hunters select the bullet type/weight for the quarry.
They know through sad experience that a 22 and elephants don’t work.

FF types seem to have a whole new selection system.

However, the line/reel,rod selection should be based on the flies and where the flies are to be used.
The weight of flies determines line weight required to cast them.
The reel is selected for its ability to contain the line plus adequate backing/drag depending on the quarry.
The rod is selected for its ability to cast the line with consideration of wind, distance required to cast and cost.
Several things to be born in mind, cheap rods have crappy cork, soft guides and possible defects in materials.
Reels, even very cheap ones, will work just fine.
Lines last depending on how they are used. I get about 250 days out of a top line Scientific Anglers line. I don’t step on them, clean them occasionally.

Regards,

Don

You answered your own question.

I'm worried about you Don.