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Old 04-23-2011, 10:47 PM
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Default My bolt wont close!!!!!!!!!!

Ok here it is I just baught a brand new Remington 700 cdl sf in 257 weatherby
i am reloading my own ammo and also baught brand new unfired cases from weatherby which i belive are made from norma mag in sweden.

anyway i fully sized 4 cases and tried to find my C.O.L and lands by adding a bullet and closeing the bolt slowly and it closes lie it should but thats it the will not close down it hits the end of the cycle but jams there. when i pull the bolt back the case is not in the claw and just falls back down the chamber and out and ther is marking on the edge of the case head. I have come to 2 conclusions and they are

1: the cases i got were a bad batch mabey at the end of the mold cycle or die before it was changed at the factory so all i will need is a box of brass???

2: The bolt itself was not machined properly and is to small to grab the case the right way is this commen??? if anybody knows this problem please let me know also if possible how to fix it.

thanks again everbody i hope this works...lol

Greg.l
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Old 04-23-2011, 10:51 PM
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Can you put in a virgin brass (unloaded, no bullet) and have it cycle?

I don't know if I mis-read but are you full length sizing virgin (un-shot) brass? You shouldn't have to do this.....

If the virgin ones fit and the full-length sized ones don't you have messed in re-sizing the brass somehow, or your die is bad....

Lefty
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Old 04-23-2011, 11:49 PM
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Am I to understand that you have not fired this rifle yet?

Your virgin brass should go right in, try it without a bullet as was already mentioned.
If the rifle cycles properly without a case in it, try it with an empty new case.
Put the brass in , and close the bolt down and see what happens.
if it does not close down without a case in it, back off the front action screw several turns and try it, this is more common than many realize - I just recently fixed another 700 in 300 mag that had the same problem, and I have done several Winchesters with long action screws.

It coulkld be that the bullet you were trying to use for OAL was too long to start with.

As far as the case not staying in the bolt head, is the plunger in place?
It sounds like it is extracting but no ejecting?
When you say it is "staying i the chamber" do you mean it is not coming out at all when the bolt is pulled back, or does in fall into the bottom of the breach and lays on top of the magazine?
Cat
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Old 04-23-2011, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rapalaman View Post
Ok here it is I just baught a brand new Remington 700 cdl sf in 257 weatherby
i am reloading my own ammo and also baught brand new unfired cases from weatherby which i belive are made from norma mag in sweden.

anyway i fully sized 4 cases and tried to find my C.O.L and lands by adding a bullet and closeing the bolt slowly and it closes lie it should but thats it the will not close down it hits the end of the cycle but jams there. when i pull the bolt back the case is not in the claw and just falls back down the chamber and out and ther is marking on the edge of the case head. I have come to 2 conclusions and they are

1: the cases i got were a bad batch mabey at the end of the mold cycle or die before it was changed at the factory so all i will need is a box of brass???

2: The bolt itself was not machined properly and is to small to grab the case the right way is this commen??? if anybody knows this problem please let me know also if possible how to fix it.

thanks again everbody i hope this works...lol

Greg.l
#1 Buy a box of factory ammo. Does it do the same thing?

If Yes, then get your chamber checked by a gunsmith.

Also, sight down the bore, is there anything foreign lodged in it or can you see to the end?

If No, then your FL resize has possibly stretched the brass too long. Load (neck size only) and fire to fireform to your chamber

FL resizing should only be done when the bolt becomes difficult to engage the round into the chamber. Otherwise neck size only.

Measure both the Virgin brass, factory ammo and reloads to see if they conform to factory specs.

Also, ALL chambers vary slightly. Fireforming brass, and neck sizing always gets me more consistent results on the bench. Usually a FL resize messes up that nice fit in the chamber, and those rounds are 'gopher rounds' until shot from again.

Your Mileage May Vary.
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Old 04-24-2011, 12:00 AM
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Yup, too long a case will do it as well, but it doesn't explain the perplexing situation of the case not in the bolt head thing?
Cat
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Old 04-24-2011, 12:06 AM
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Greg. Try this.

Try Chambering a Virgin piece of brass. No bullet or anything

Try Chambering a once fired case (neck sized and decapped, and run through the seating die with no bullet ((so it crimps the neck))

and tell us what the results are.
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Old 04-24-2011, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Got Juice? View Post
Greg. Try this.

Try Chambering a Virgin piece of brass. No bullet or anything

Try Chambering a once fired case (neck sized and decapped, and run through the seating die with no bullet ((so it crimps the neck))

and tell us what the results are.
I think he is having issues even getting a once fired brass, what I get from the OP is he has yet to fire anything from this rifle.

The OP sounds like he is full length sizing the virgin brass....but I could be mistaken. I think the issue is the sizing die is not set up correctly and especially with the Weatherby cartridges he may be compressing the neck?(or he is using too much case lube which is not good for the dual radius either) and deforming the virgin brass running through the FL die? Just a guess though....

Lefty
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Old 04-24-2011, 12:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck View Post
I think he is having issues even getting a once fired brass, what I get from the OP is he has yet to fire anything from this rifle.

The OP sounds like he is full length sizing the virgin brass....but I could be mistaken. I think the issue is the sizing die is not set up correctly and especially with the Weatherby cartridges he may be compressing the neck?(or he is using too much case lube which is not good for the dual radius either) and deforming the virgin brass running through the FL die? Just a guess though....

Lefty
Hard issue to diagnose unless he can get some factory ammo to fit or not. Do a little Mic and dial on the factory stuff, chamber it etc.

Hope it works out.

Bu I am really curious as to why FL resize virgin brass? Typically I load and shoot it to fireform, and then it fits my chamber exactly. And never FL resize unless it gets 'sticky' to chamber.

I usually get my most consistent groups from FFd brass. Virgin stuff is exactly that. I have even loaded some virgin .204 that would not chamber very well. Neck thickness was the culprit, and it went into the garbage after pulling the bullet, and saving the powder.
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Old 04-24-2011, 04:05 AM
nanuk-O-dah-Nort nanuk-O-dah-Nort is offline
 
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i have always run my virgin brass through the FL die, but turned back so only sizing the last 1/4" or so of the neck

that way the body is untouched and I get a consistent, round neck.
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Old 04-24-2011, 04:51 AM
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Here is a thought. Are you setting the round on the top of the clip and it wont chamber? Try putting the round into the clip and then chamber it. Your extractor may not be going over the rim.
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Old 04-24-2011, 07:32 AM
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Needless to say, any of the above could and likely is your problem. I'm gonna throw another in the hat. Stick your little finger inside the chamber, feel for an obstruction on the top. Could be that the front scope base screw is slighty too long and protruding inside. This can be true particularly if you have Leupold bases where one screw is slightly longer than the other. Switch them around. Good luck.
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Old 04-24-2011, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by gitrdun View Post
Needless to say, any of the above could and likely is your problem. I'm gonna throw another in the hat. Stick your little finger inside the chamber, feel for an obstruction on the top. Could be that the front scope base screw is slighty too long and protruding inside. This can be true particularly if you have Leupold bases where one screw is slightly longer than the other. Switch them around. Good luck.
I can do nothing else but shake my head.

This advice can be completely ignored.
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck View Post
I can do nothing else but shake my head.

This advice can be completely ignored.
Ok already Chuck, I had that coming. But putting the bickering aside, I have seen that happen on two occasions. On one gun, I fixed it myself, on the 2nd, it went back to WSS Calgary where they fixed it.
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by gitrdun View Post
Ok already Chuck, I had that coming. But putting the bickering aside, I have seen that happen on two occasions. On one gun, I fixed it myself, on the 2nd, it went back to WSS Calgary where they fixed it.
I've also seen this on several occasions, one where WSS had mounted a scope with the bolt in the gun closed, when the fella got home he could not open it!!
The others were easy fixes of putting shorter screws in.
The last one was on a rifle that I actually thought was the base screws but was another front action screw too long - it was loose and I had tightened it up before mounting the scope - couldn't close the bolt after I put it back in the gun.

Cat
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:32 AM
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Default extractor

i saw you mentioned the case just slide out when the bolt was pulled back.

its possible the extractor may not be sliding back in its groove.

the case will sit on top of the extractor and simulate a longer case.

in my rifle a sako extractor was the solution.

after 3 warranty trips to rem and the problem not fixed

it is a good idea before shooting a live round to check chamber by loading a sized brass with your finger ensuring it sits all the way in.


good luck and be safe
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:33 AM
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You guys are telling me that someone at WSS is strong enough to bore a hole directly into the chamber with a scope mount screw on a remington 700? He will succeed in reaching the inside of the receiver with the rear screw on the front base, but not the front one.
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by catnthehat View Post
I've also seen this on several occasions, one where WSS had mounted a scope with the bolt in the gun closed, when the fella got home he could not open it!!
The others were easy fixes of putting shorter screws in.
The last one was on a rifle that I actually thought was the base screws but was another front action screw too long - it was loose and I had tightened it up before mounting the scope - couldn't close the bolt after I put it back in the gun.

Cat
X3?

I have also seen this.

I love how some folks will turn a friendly advise column into a "rude" awakening in a heartbeat.....thats the kind of non-constructive critique we can do without guys. There was really no reason to make the ,"I can do nothing else but shake my head. This advice can be completely ignored." post.

Just cause you ain't seen it, don't mean it can't happen Chuck.

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Old 04-24-2011, 08:35 AM
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X3?

I have also seen this.



Just cause you ain't seen it, don't mean it can't happen Chuck.

Lefty
It cannot happen.
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:37 AM
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I would agree with gitrdun,seen that on my dads old rem 300hh,when I got a new leupold for him, and yahoo at sports shop bore sighted and mounted scope.too long a screw through base acting like a set screw on the bolt,easy place to start.
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:39 AM
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You guys are telling me that someone at WSS is strong enough to bore a hole directly into the chamber with a scope mount screw on a remington 700? He will succeed in reaching the inside of the receiver with the rear screw on the front base, but not the front one.
No, the hole for the front screw goes into the bolt lug area of the action.
When the bolt gets turned the lug hits the screw.
Cat
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:40 AM
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chuck: I suggested that he use his finger to feel for the obstruction, which would immediately make it obvious as to which screw is protruding. Obviously one couldn't thread a screw through a blind hole. If I incorrectly stated front or back, my bad.
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by catnthehat View Post
No, the hole for the front screw goes into the bolt lug area of the action.
When the bolt gets turned the lug hits the screw.
Cat
The hole for the front screw runs directly into the barrel threads.

The hole for the rear screw on the front base runs into the lug area.
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by gitrdun View Post
chuck: I suggested that he use his finger to feel for the obstruction, which would immediately make it obvious as to which screw is protruding. Obviously one couldn't thread a screw through a blind hole. If I incorrectly stated front or back, my bad.
You said:

Quote:
Stick your little finger inside the chamber, feel for an obstruction on the top. Could be that the front scope base screw is slighty too long and protruding inside.
There is no hole in the chamber. No way no how NEVER.
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:58 AM
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"Welcome back from our regularly scheduled interruption"

Looking forward to the OP's reply to see what he was able to sort out....

Lefty
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:00 AM
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Chuck is correct that the statement below is badly flawed.

Quote:
Stick your little finger inside the chamber,
No screws go through into the chamber. The poster making the statement should have used the word "action" instead of chamber.

In any case, if there is a screw issue, the bolt won't close on an empty chamber, so that is easy to check.
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:20 AM
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It is actually the bolt lug raceway if you guys want to be technical, and if you put the long screw in there with the bolt closed, it wont open. If you put the long screw in there with the bolt open, it wont close. No need to stick your finger anywhere, just try closing the bolt on an empty chamber. If that won't work, pull your scope bases and try again.
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck View Post
Can you put in a virgin brass (unloaded, no bullet) and have it cycle?

I don't know if I mis-read but are you full length sizing virgin (un-shot) brass? You shouldn't have to do this.....

If the virgin ones fit and the full-length sized ones don't you have messed in re-sizing the brass somehow, or your die is bad....

Lefty
yes it will not close with virgin brass or full length resized brass
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
yes it will not close with virgin brass or full length resized brass
Will it close on an empty chamber?
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:41 AM
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Take it back make them sort it out thats kinda nonsense on a brand new gun you shouldnt have to deal with issues like that JMO
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:45 AM
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Take it back make them sort it out thats kinda nonsense on a brand new gun you shouldnt have to deal with issues like that JMO
X2

But just before you do take it back.... Do as others suggested, pull the scope mounts completely, and try to cycle in an empty virgin brass (un-sized).....see if it will go in. If it does it is likely related to the screw issue if it doesn't.....its a lemon gun and you need to get it replaced. Don't let the store tell you they will send it away to have it fixed blah blah...replace it!

Lefty
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