Send this guy an email. I chatted with him last year about a diy trip, if that is your thing. He has been several times and has written a couple magazine articles. He sent me some local contact info and answered many questions. Actually I think he gave me his phone number so we talked that way, he lives in northern BC. Unfortunately, my trip to Australia fell through so I didn't make it but it's still on my list.
davidradcliffe@shaw.ca