Fletching Arrows

bullsbucksandbears · #1 02-17-2013, 09:43 AM

Good day all. I have been pulling my hair out trying to get my arrow fletched properly. Generally I will follow all of the manufacturers instructions but have always had some adhesion issues. I will fletch up 6 arrows and 5 will be perfectly fine and I will be able to shoot them almost all season. The other one will have a vane fly off after a couple shots. I am using a grayling fletching jig with a right helical for Blazer or Fusion vanes. I shoot a Whisker Biscuit rest which I know are a bit tougher on vanes but it is interesting that it is one or two out of the batch. I am debating using the NAP Quick Fletches but the cost is turning me off. I have also heard that the Whisker Biscuit can do a number on them as well.

I guess I have 2 questions:

1. Does anyone have a fool proof fletching method that they are willing to share including cleaning procedure, fletching jig, type of glue etc, to get me on the straight and narrow?

2. Does anyone have any experience shooting NAP quick fletches through a Whisker Biscuit that they are willing to share?

Thanks in advance guys, straight shooting, Mark.

Mtnbowhunter · #2 02-17-2013, 10:30 AM

I find my blazers stay on better using a arrow wrap. Also, try getting rid of the helical because that will put a lot of extra strain on the vanes as they pass through the biscuit.

normanrd · #3 02-17-2013, 10:36 AM

Hey Mark, I have never used a grayling fletcher, nor have I tried to fletch blazer vanes helical. I have fletched 5" feathers helically successfully. I use a Jojan 6 arrow fletcher, and fletch tite platinum glue generally for all the arrows I fletch and haven't ever had any problems with fletching falling off, even when I used a biscuit rest.

That bieng said, I don't think that helical fletching and Whisker Biscuits ever will or were ever designed to work hand in hand seamlessly. I found that if you got a 1 to 2 degree offset that it is enough to stabilize the arrow, and passes through the biscuit relaitively easily with less wear and tear to both the biscuit and the fletching.

So, as stated, I have my jojan fletcher set up with about as much offset as I can get and still keep the base of the fletching in full contact with the arrow shaft. Works out to about 2 degrees or so. here are my shaft prep steps:

1- Scrape all the old glue and fletching off. any shiny surface must go.

2- Get a small piece of emery cloth or sand paper and lightly scuff up the surface to be fletched. Really lightly. I generally just turn the arrow shaft in the paper one full turn. all we want to do is give the glue something to grab on to.

3- clean the area of the shaft to be fletched with alcohol or acetone. I have used both and both work well. Somebody is gonna say that manufacturers dont recommend acetone, but I havent seen any problems or ruined any arrows. use whatever you have. DO NO HANDLE THE AREA TO BE GLUED AFTER IT IS CLEAN. it could cause your glue to not stick there.

4 - insert your vane in the clamp and put on a LIGHT coat of glue on it. Too much glue will cause it not to stick very well. Less is more here! If you have a long clamp and are using a short vane, place another vane farther to the point end in the clamp, but do not glue it. this will keep the jig from tipping over and maintain an even down-pressure on the vane you are gluing.

5 - stick it in the jig, back end first, hold for about a 5 count. let it sit for a couple of minutes and remove the clamp, index to the next spot and repeat.

6 - place a very little "dab" of glue on the leading and trailing edge of the vane right where it contacts the shaft. this tends to give the vane a little better chance of not being ripped off if it goes through a target or whatever.

7 - let dry over night if you can, in a warm place.

That's about her!

Norm

bullsbucksandbears · #4 02-17-2013, 10:42 AM

Thanks for the tips. I have often wondered about the helical and now it seems that both Mtnbowhunter and youself Norm are saying that it may actually not be helping as much as I think. Hmm mught have to look at offsetting them vice putting a heli on them. Cleaning procedure is pretty much what I have been doing to avoid any residue or oil from fingers on the shaft. Have not considered cresting though. Thanks fellas.

petew · #5 02-17-2013, 11:59 PM

Tip and Tail every fletch. That drop of glue keeps the fletch from lifting.
Wraps are a blessing for adhesion with super glue or Fletch Tite.
order wraps from Onestringer. They are cheap, and very good quality. last time I checked plane wraps were $20 for 8 Dozen solid color wraps. Scott Will also do custom wraps at good prices too. He will make them custom width for ant arrow shaft size.
http://www.onestringer.com/index.php...prod&scatid=26

I used to use a biscuit when the first came out and had no troubles with Helical using Duravanes or feathers.

When you adjust the clamps make sure you have full contact on the base of the vane or feather for it's full length.
Pete .

normanrd · #6 02-18-2013, 09:51 AM

Pete mentioned Duravanes, and I have to say I have used them alot and they stuck just as well as the Blazers. Currently I use Blazers.

petew · #7 02-18-2013, 10:03 AM

I haven't used vanes for years now, but in the past I would steam a vane to take out the waves it would get from use and passing thru targets. I still do this with feathers when they start getting ratty. I often wonder how many do not realize most vanes will return to shape with a short steam or hair dryer session.

normanrd · #8 02-18-2013, 10:33 AM

That's another awesome point! You can take the "wrinkle" out of vanes using a hair dryer or even a heat gun or steam. If you use a heat gun be verrry careful! They will melt in the blink of an eye!

Another good one Pete!

petew · #9 02-18-2013, 10:50 AM

It is a no loose situation srtaightening vanes. They are already wrecked, so nothing to loose if you do ruin them or un -glue them.
I could never understand why every shooter does not have a fletcher and do their own.
It is just to easy, My Grand Daughter did hers when she was 6 years old.
Guys say they don't have time, but you can do it watching TV . A single clamp will do a dozen arrows easily in an hour. How long does it take to drive to a shop, and back home, then return to pick up the arrows a few days later ?
Economy?? A good fletcher starts at around $30 bucks, Buy vanees or feathers by the hundred . 1 Stock up pays for the fleetcher and fletches in savings , not counting the gas to drive to the shops.
At home you can replace 1 fletch if that is all that is needed. Ever see a shop just replace 1 fletch??
Get wraps from a place like 1 stringer for a fraction of the cost at a shop.
There is nothing to it, even kids can do it. You save in every way, time and money.

Pete

carlellik · #10 03-24-2013, 08:48 PM

you were saying about the one fletch that doesn't last this may help you and others that are having problems: the first thing I do is where the fletch sits i use a light sanding of 220 grit sand paper rub lightly around the arrow shaft. then use a scrub pad and hot hot water rub pad leangth wise take courceness from sand paper off but arrow shaft take lines off a little carbon may come off that is ok that is the finish let air dry wipe clean with rubbing alcahol. Now you are ready to fletch take vane install it in clip soak q tip in rubbing alcahol wipe on vane let air dry that will take the finish off vane pay particuler attention to vane it should curl slightly on edges then install glue don't be scared use a q tip to clean off excess glue. If your vane doesn't curl chuck it air will get inside and gradually it will come off. Hope this helps.