Shotshell reloading advice

[Big Daddy Badger]

Recently I've started to get more interested in waterfowl hunting.
Thing is...waterfowl shells are pretty oricey...even if you aren't buying premium ammo and...lets face it...I'm no one shot wonder when they are on the wing.

I already reload all my CF rifle ammo and I'm toying with the idea of reloading shot shells as well.

I don't need a high production press since my pal and I will probably only go through 3 or 4 hundred shells per year but I don't really know where to start.

Are the Lee Loadall presses worth it or should I buy something a bit better?
Suggestions?
I usually shoot 3 inch but can that press reload 3 1/2 inch shells?

What other tools and equipment will I need?

Thanks in advance

[catnthehat]

Mec 600 Jr is probably the best press ever made for cost, reliability, and ease of operation.
Add a universal charge bar and a powder baffle and you are away !
Cat

[saskbooknut]

I don't think that you are going to save all that much money by loading shotshells for waterfowl. Steel components are expensive and other non-toxic shot options are way, way more expensive.
If you shop for a good deal on Kent shells by the flat you will save some.

If you put any value on your time at all it is not worth it.

I am only loading special shells that are unavailable these days - Black powder trap loads and "Nice shot" for those guns which cannot handle steel shot.

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by saskbooknut

I don't think that you are going to save all that much money by loading shotshells for waterfowl. Steel components are expensive and other non-toxic shot options are way, way more expensive.
If you shop for a good deal on Kent shells by the flat you will save some.

If you put any value on your time at all it is not worth it.

I am only loading special shells that are unavailable these days - Black powder trap loads and "Nice shot" for those guns which cannot handle steel shot.

Yup, a flat or two is pretty cheap compared to what it costs to set up and load , unless you want stuff like ITX or Nice shot, then it evens out!
Cat

[ShawnM]

Originally Posted by catnthehat

Mec 600 Jr is probably the best press ever made for cost, reliability, and ease of operation.
Add a universal charge bar and a powder baffle and you are away !
Cat

x2 on the Mec press. Although I am having problems loading AA shells on my sizemaster... The Lee Load-All is extremely inexpensive and it does a pretty good job too, if you don't see yourself reloading for skeet then it may be the best way to start up. You basically get everything other than hulls, powder, wads, shot and primers.

Reloading for waterfowl probably isn't going to save you much if anything. Unless you're shooting thousands of ducks a season that is Your savings come in if you shoot skeet pretty frequently and can by your materials in bulk.

[catnthehat]

[QUOTE=ShawnM;1093694]x2 on the Mec press. Although I am having problems loading AA shells on my sizemaster... .
QUOTE]

Hvae you got the crimp stations set up for a diferent AA hull than you are using>
There are two different lengths remember, from the old style HS to the newer HS as well as the original AA!
I've got so i can get by with a single setting for all, but also employ an overshot wad to help keep things "right".
The OS wad will give good pressure even to a crimp that is messed up really bad!!
cat

[ShawnM]

[QUOTE=catnthehat;1093749]

Originally Posted by ShawnM

x2 on the Mec press. Although I am having problems loading AA shells on my sizemaster... .
QUOTE]

Hvae you got the crimp stations set up for a diferent AA hull than you are using>
There are two different lengths remember, from the old style HS to the newer HS as well as the original AA!
I've got so i can get by with a single setting for all, but also employ an overshot wad to help keep things "right".
The OS wad will give good pressure even to a crimp that is messed up really bad!!
cat

I've played around with the crimp station for hours to try and get a good crimp but I can't seem to get it right. I've adjusted the height of the crimper as well as the cam to try to get a nice neat crimp but can't seem to get it right. The crimper bites into the the edges of the crimp and makes little lines on the edge of the shell. If I adjust the height high enough it doesn't do that then I don't get a deep enough crimp. Same issue with the STS hulls for some reason... They're all recently new, once shot hulls so they SHOULD all be uniform.

[Hunter Trav]

Originally Posted by pesky672

Thing is...waterfowl shells are pretty oricey...even if you aren't buying premium ammo and...lets face it...I'm no one shot wonder when they are on the wing.

Forget about saving money, your not gonna save anything over buying them when it comes to hunting loads. If you can shoot steel in your guns, go buy a flat of whatever brand of shells you shoot. Thats the only way your gonna save anything...

[petew]

Before you spend a cent price out steel, or steel equivelent components. Then go buy a flat of factory shells.
Pete

[hillbillyreefer]

Originally Posted by petew

Before you spend a cent price out steel, or steel equivelent components. Then go buy a flat of factory shells.
Pete

Or a case of factory. It really is not worth the expense and hassle for a flat or two a year. Watch for promotions at your local stores and stock up when they are on sale.

That being said the non progressive MECs are a good buy for the money. If you have any questions about the press before you buy, email MEC. It may take them a couple days to get back to you but they will. Always had good service and responses from them.

[ShawnM]

Originally Posted by petew

Before you spend a cent price out steel, or steel equivelent components. Then go buy a flat of factory shells.
Pete

Exactly the issue with reloading for water fowl... Upland isn't so bad because you can still use lead and it seems pretty much the same price no matter what size shot you're using. But in 12 gauge it still pretty much works out the same as factory ammo. Reloading 20 gauge is a good savings though because you use a fair amount less powder and generally less shot. And since factory 20 gauge costs more or less the same as 12 gauge you do a little better.

Of course there's the whole intangible feelings of pride, enjoying reloading, figuring out loads, taking a bird with a shell you loaded yourself etc. That's mostly why I do it myself.

[petew]

Even reloading for upland with lead is not so cost efective any more.
Light loads of #6 and 71/2 can be found as cheap or cheaper than you can reload.
Pete

[densa44]

I remember when I started, and that was what I thought was the reason. It was a lee, manual kit. One shell at a time loaded with a small scoop. One size for powder, one for shot.

Fast forward 38 years, the basement is full of presses for both shot shells and center fire ammo.

I have 3 MEC jr. presses set up for 12 and 20 ga. plus a free very nice old Pacific 12 ga. that some form members are helping me by making parts that you can't buy. I have a lee load all or 2 one for 12 and one for 20. My sons both reload.

I have pop bottles full of lead and steel shot propping open doors. I have more powder than I'll probably ever need.

I guess I just can't stop until I start saving money. Oh I used to only shoot "a few boxes" now I can break 24 at the 16 yard line.

[catnthehat]

[QUOTE=ShawnM;1093786]

Originally Posted by catnthehat

I've played around with the crimp station for hours to try and get a good crimp but I can't seem to get it right. I've adjusted the height of the crimper as well as the cam to try to get a nice neat crimp but can't seem to get it right. The crimper bites into the the edges of the crimp and makes little lines on the edge of the shell. If I adjust the height high enough it doesn't do that then I don't get a deep enough crimp. Same issue with the STS hulls for some reason... They're all recently new, once shot hulls so they SHOULD all be uniform.

Everything has to be just right, and the adjustments are very slight, for sure!
Soundls like the crimp starter may be too deep.
Cat

[Hunter Trav]

Originally Posted by ShawnM

Of course there's the whole intangible feelings of pride, enjoying reloading, figuring out loads, taking a bird with a shell you loaded yourself etc. That's mostly why I do it myself.

Totally understandable, I feel the same way about it...

[Big Daddy Badger]

Right.
Thanks for the advice.
I guess this explains why so many sweet deals on shotty reloading stuff keep popping up in the classifieds.

I guess I'll save my time for other stuff and spend my money on a bulk buy of factory loads.

To bad really. I like reloading for my rifles and find it allows me to shoot better ammo at a discount....

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by pesky672

Right.
Thanks for the advice.
I guess this explains why so many sweet deals on shotty reloading stuff keep popping up in the classifieds.

I guess I'll save my time for other stuff and spend my money on a bulk buy of factory loads.

To bad really. I like reloading for my rifles and find it allows me to shoot better ammo at a discount....

Yup, reloading shotshells is not the same as cartridge when it comes to saving money!!
I hand load my 28's, and to a lesser extent, my 20's, but the 12's? hardly, except for my vintage guns and for BP loads.
other than that , it is pretty tough to justify.
Cat

[dgl1948]

I have used Mec and Lee loaders. I now use a Ponsness-Warren 375. It is by far the best of the 3 loaders.
If you are looking at saving money as others have suggested by your shells by the case. The saving on reloading shotshells is a thing of the past right now.

[ShawnM]

Truth told I'm actually saving about 89 cents a box doing my own reloading. I use my Win AA and Rem STS hulls several times so I count those as zero cost, since I bought them as factory ammo in the first place. If I can get some bulk shot and bulk wads then I think the savings will increase quite a bit.

I think it is a little unfair to compare the $55.00 case of 2.75" 1oz bargain basement shells to one that you load by hand with care and attention. They feed better in my semi auto, they are better quality components, etc. You could never make up the difference between the cheapest 12g you can find and hand loads but if it's about quality ammunition like factory Winchester AA vs hand loaded AA shells there is a SMALL cost savings.

But unfortunately when it comes to hunting loads I don't think you can save anything right now. The cost of non-toxic components for waterfowl is just too high at the moment.

[catnthehat]

I save a bunch of money on the 28's and 16's but the savings on the 12's and 20's are pretty slim when you take into account the time it takes ( even with my porogressives) and the amount of space it takes to store the different compnants and such.
I'll still keep hand loading owever, for the special loads .
Cat

[ShawnM]

Originally Posted by catnthehat

I save a bunch of money on the 28's and 16's but the savings on the 12's and 20's are pretty slim when you take into account the time it takes ( even with my porogressives) and the amount of space it takes to store the different compnants and such.
I'll still keep hand loading owever, for the special loads .
Cat

PS: Answer your PM's

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by ShawnM

PS: Answer your PM's

? Don't see any!!
Cat

[ForwardBias]

So I was reading through this and was wondering about buckshot. Would one have cost savings loading their own buckshot?

[32-40win]

Price out the shot, the primers and the wads. Steel or lead shot will run 2-3.00/lb by itself, Stuff like hevishot is more yet. How many rounds will you use in a year, and what shot charge weight do you want to use? 1oz loads will only give you 16 loads per pound, and it goes down, as the shot charge size goes up, Only get 10 rds out of a pound, with 1-1/2oz. shot charge. Shot comes in a 25lb bag usually. You will get lots of rounds out of a pound of powder, probably around 150, and primers are sold by the 100 or 1000/box. And then you need wads. You probably need more than one type of wad, as you probably have various brands of hulls. You may need a couple or more of types of plastic wad, and some card or fibre wads of some type or another.
Then you have to set the press up with shot and powder charge bars, or acquire or modify shot and powder bushings, set the crimp stage for various charges in various hulls.
That is all after, you find the loads you can use with the hulls you have. And not all the components are avail on the local store shelves.

[LeroyvdH]

We just load for BP shells.. I just buy trap and the odd feild load.. But ifin you like it and haveing fun giver beans.. I used to in the old days.. Not about money always
Leroy

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by LeroyvdH

We just load for BP shells.. I just buy trap and the odd feild load.. But ifin you like it and haveing fun giver beans.. I used to in the old days.. Not about money always
Leroy

BLACK POWDER RULES!!!
Sorry, got carried away......
Cat

[couleefolk]

I've been watching videos on slug reloading, especially when it comes to 3.5" loads, my math is telling me I can load for cheaper than buying. I also save a pile of money on the 410 loads. 12g I can't find a good enough deal on supplies to reload, so those are factory. I also can't find 3.5" with #2 lead, so I'm going to dig into that hopefully this winter. If you can find someone clearing out reloading supplies, sometimes you can shoot for fairly cheap.

[saskbooknut]

Another fan of making BP smoke. No excuse for misses when I look at Black Powder shotshell patterns on the pattern board.
I also load premium upland with plated shot and spreader loads for my tightly choked 16 gauge AyA side by side. The hunt for 16 gauge components is always on, as there are very few suppliers, and few choices in Canada.
Prices for factory target cartridges have increased a bit, but not enough to be saving significant money on 12 and 20 gauge.