Help Please! Traps are getting froze up, and won't go off.

Hi everyone,
I am trying to find out how you keep a trap from freezing up. I am using #2's, for coyote.
I have been told a bunch of things, but can't seem to find them locally.
Thanks so much in advance,
Chris

Use wax paper as a pan cover and even under traps if they're freezing down. Use dry dirt...found in old barns, etc...zero moisture in it so it can't freeze.

I have already used the wax paper under the pan, but still haven't had the luck of it going off.
We stopped at walmart today and bought a bag of potting soil, and some sodium chloride from the local co-op. The dirt on the traps currently is frozen stiffer than a rock. The paw was dead center on the pan area, but didn't go off.
Is it possible I simply have "too much dirt" on the pan?
Would it be ok to use the potting soil?
I don't have any areas where I can get dry dirt from.
Also, we are getting a couple inches of snow here now, and it is staying. Would I be wise to raise the trap to ground level, or leave it as is, like a summer set, with the trap imbedded in the ground?
Thanks so much,
Chris

Chris, the wax paper should go on TOP of the pan, to keep dirt from getting under the pan and stopping it from travelling. The salt you bought will likely be very corrosive on your traps and the potting soil might be moist, meaning it will freeze right away. I might add, that now we are getting freeze/thaw every day, is the toughest time to keep traps working. I actually quit now and start with the snares.

As far as the snow goes, if the freeze/thaw thing keeps up, it will stop your trap from firing anyway. So sweep the snow away from your set, and make it look like it was worked by an animal. This will be an attraction to others.

If you were registered we could talk by PM.

Use Horse manure, horse manure do NOT freeze.

I went with a guy on his trap line one time and he used RV antifreeze at his sets. He had a spray bottle and he just squirted the stuff liberally around the edges of the jaws as he packed in the trap. Then he laid in his waxpaper, sifted in some dry dirt, gave that a good squirting, sifted a little more dry dirt plus a little native dirt and called it good. Come back for the coyote tomorrow. It works because he used to catch 400 to 500 dogs a year. Now he has switched to snares. Much more time economical and easier to set up.

Thanks so much for all adice everyone!
I have a question for you all: THese snares, are they as simple as they sound to set up? Local law states that they have to have a break away point, as well as a stop, etc. I know little about trapping, and even less about snares. I used to use them on rabbits long ago as a kid, but that was the extent I got into the snares. If possible, I'd like to look at the possibility of using them. How much damage do the snares do to the animal, as far as the hide?
Thanks so much,
Chris

Chris, I'm a little surprised that you did not learn all you need to know about trapping after taking the mandatory first time trapper course here in Alberta before obtaining your trapping licence

Chuck Wagon, are you sure he's an Alberta trapper ?

Chuck Wagon,
I am actually from Michigan, but would be interested in the test just the same. Is the info/test open to anyone?
Chris

Chris, go to trapperman.com.....and you will be overwelmed with info.