Bedding before or after Cerakote?

[Pathfinder76]

Which is the preferred way to go? Or what are your thoughts on the matter? Thanks.

[RZR]

Mine are all bedded before cerakoted.

[fps plus]

In my mind after

[RZR]

Cerakote is thinner than paper you won’t notice any accuracy issues.

[fish_e_o]

Originally Posted by RZR

Cerakote is thinner than paper you won’t notice any accuracy issues.

Well if it's a proper bedding job it won't fit again


Do it after. Cerakote is 1-2 thou thick so 2-4 on a recoil lug

[Flight01]

Originally Posted by fish_e_o

Well if it's a proper bedding job it won't fit again


Do it after. Cerakote is 1-2 thou thick so 2-4 on a recoil lug

I am on this side .

Mind you I have never ceracoted or bedded a rifle..... but I’d did stay at a holiday inn last night.

[Dean2]

Another vote for after. The whole point of bedding is a skin tight fit, which it isn't if you can add another layer after you bed the action. Pillar bedding either before orr after no difference, but actual glass or Devcon bedded, if done right, won't fit the action any more. The action would not fit down into the bedded stock.

[RZR]

Originally Posted by Dean2

Another vote for after. The whole point of bedding is a skin tight fit, which it isn't if you can add another layer after you bed the action. Pillar bedding either before orr after no difference, but actual glass or Devcon bedded, if done right, won't fit the action any more. The action would not fit down into the bedded stock.

It’s pretty easy if you know what your doing. Here’s a little secret, tape off the lug so it doesn’t get cerakoted. Works every time, at least it did for me. I even bedded the barrels on the three rifles I did, but that’s just how I did mine.

[elkhunter11]

Bed after the coating.

[obsessed1]

Another vote for after

[Kurt505]

What's the point of bedding if you're going to alter the barrel size after it's been bedded? That doesn't make any sense.

[Pathfinder76]

Originally Posted by Kurt505

What's the point of bedding if you're going to alter the barrel size after it's been bedded? That doesn't make any sense.

What does barrel size have to do with it?

I’m not disagreeing, but it is not uncommon in the industry to coat after bedding.

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by chuck

What does barrel size have to do with it?

I’m not disagreeing, but it is not uncommon in the industry to coat after bedding.

Some people bed the first inch or two of the barrrl shank and that is probably what Kurt is talking about .
.004 is quite a bit added to the diameter of an action and would cause binding I would think .
As far as taping a recoil lug goes , that is where one wants total bearing so personally I would not go that route , either .

Personally , I would bed after , just my opinion.
Cat

[fps plus]

FYI most masking tape is .005" thick -- just for reference and thought

[Kurt505]

Originally Posted by chuck

What does barrel size have to do with it?

I’m not disagreeing, but it is not uncommon in the industry to coat after bedding.

If you're bedding it for the sake of bedding it then it doesn't matter, but if you're bedding it for precision then you're defeating the purpose bedding before coat it. Any coating you put on a barrel/action adds to the size of the barrel/action. You can do it however you feel works for you, I would bed mine after, no question.

[RZR]

Guess i have to dumb it down for some of you The rifles are bedded already then after the fact I decided to cerakote, so then I took and taped off the lug cerakoted the barrel and action and don't forget the trigger guard, bolt handle and swivels. Then once the cerakote has been applied and baked then remove the taped off area and then put the rifle together that way you never have to worry about the bedding again, and that way it will always be bare metal that is bedded and not cerakote that is bedded. I hope that helps.

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by RZR

Guess i have to dumb it down for some of you The rifles are bedded already then after the fact I decided to cerakote, so then I took and taped off the lug cerakoted the barrel and action and don't forget the trigger guard, bolt handle and swivels. Then once the cerakote has been applied and baked then remove the taped off area and then put the rifle together that way you never have to worry about the bedding again, and that way it will always be bare metal that is bedded and not cerakote that is bedded. I hope that helps.

You are not worried about the extra .005 diameter of the action or the trigger guard,etc?
Cat

[RZR]

Originally Posted by catnthehat

You are not worried about the extra .005 diameter of the action or the trigger guard,etc?
Cat

No, They Shoot just fine, and very accurate too I might add. where are you getting .005 added, you'd be lucky if the coating is .001

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by RZR

No, They Shoot just fine, and very accurate too I might add. where are you getting .005 added, you'd be lucky if the coating is .001

Sorry I should have said .004 that would be the maximum from what Fish EO stated that it is .001 .002 thick .
That would give you .004 max increased diameter on the action sides and if you bedded the bottom metal another .004 difference in the measurement between your bottom metal and the action .
Personally if I was after match rifle accuracy I would re- bed , but that is just my opinion
Cat

[260 Rem]

Obviously, bedding will be most effective when set in the”exact” dimension action. I don’t know if the .001 “squeeze” that could potentially occur when the action is torqued down would be much of a factor? Or even if an extra thou on the recoil lug would make significant difference assuming the action screws were not making contact in the pillar channel? I could be wrong, but I think the Barnard V Block (aluminum block) is actually a V shape that makes contact along two planes along the steel action ...and that when torqued, it sets/snugs the action in the channel. One thing I do know, is that the Barnards shoot pretty well.
Guess the only real method to determine effect is to test both techniques. Another thing I do know, is that skim bedding is real simple, not messy...

[RZR]

Another thing to take into account is the film of the releasing agent when glass bedding is done.

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by RZR

Another thing to take into account is the film of the releasing agent when glass bedding is done.

Not sure if one can gauge thee difference with paste wax laid on then buffed.

Cat

[Dean2]

RZR

You are entitled to your opinions, you don't need to be offensive about it. Just because others disagree with you does not mean they don't understand, it merely means the facts in play add up to a different result for them.

Alternative Firearms Coatings - How thick is Cerakote Gun Coatings and will it affect the function of my firearm?
Cerakote is applied very thin, 1 to 2 mils, and will not affect the vast majority of firearms. Extra care needs to be taken with tight tolerance custom actions, or actions that have had the bolt bushed, but they can be coated.

[Full Curl Earl]

Originally Posted by RZR

Guess i have to dumb it down for some of you The rifles are bedded already then after the fact I decided to cerakote, so then I took and taped off the lug cerakoted the barrel and action and don't forget the trigger guard, bolt handle and swivels. Then once the cerakote has been applied and baked then remove the taped off area and then put the rifle together that way you never have to worry about the bedding again, and that way it will always be bare metal that is bedded and not cerakote that is bedded. I hope that helps.

Talk like that can make a mans Nose Crooked.
It also leads me to believe you’ve not Cerakoted or bedded that much. There is no benefit in leaving the lug in the “raw” when bedding, as thin as Cerakote or KG Guncote is applied, if you bedded prior as stated, bedding product shrinkage, depending on product used (as “Glass bedding” isn’t really descriptive) that Cerakote recoil lug probably fit real good! Maybe wouldn’t get it off again though. If accuracy is what your looking for, we router the stock so bedding material isn’t paper thin, then pillar bed with Arcaglass gel, or stainless epoxy (customers choice) the action, trigger guard, recoil lug and 1” North or lug.
Save us the dummying down next time please.

[gitrdun]

Originally Posted by RZR

Guess i have to dumb it down for some of you The rifles are bedded already then after the fact I decided to cerakote, so then I took and taped off the lug cerakoted the barrel and action and don't forget the trigger guard, bolt handle and swivels. Then once the cerakote has been applied and baked then remove the taped off area and then put the rifle together that way you never have to worry about the bedding again, and that way it will always be bare metal that is bedded and not cerakote that is bedded. I hope that helps.

Well, many thanks for "dumbing it down". Couldn't have done it without your suggestions. Thanks.

[RZR]

Originally Posted by gitrdun

Well, many thanks for "dumbing it down". Couldn't have done it without your suggestions. Thanks.

Well, here is some intelligent input. there was no offensiveness taken there dean

[Robmcleod82]

Seems like a whole bunch of guys here that have opinions that are not based on any experience in the subject matter..... full curl earl is on the money with epoxy shrinkage and also the paste wax will add a bit of clearance. Ive done both ways pre and post bedding and it doesnt make a lick of difference as far as i have ever seen.

[Pathfinder76]

Originally Posted by Robmcleod82

Seems like a whole bunch of guys here that have opinions that are not based on any experience in the subject matter..... full curl earl is on the money with epoxy shrinkage and also the paste wax will add a bit of clearance. Ive done both ways pre and post bedding and it doesnt make a lick of difference as far as i have ever seen.

Thanks. This is what I have heard as well. I’m curious whether or not you tape the recoil lug.

[Robmcleod82]

I tape the bottom and usually thats it as most of the lugs i use are tapered. Straight lugs can get a bit tight without tape on the sides some times.

[Pathfinder76]

Originally Posted by Robmcleod82

I tape the bottom and usually thats it as most of the lugs i use are tapered. Straight lugs can get a bit tight without tape on the sides some times.

I have always just taped the bottom as well. Never had an issue.