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Old 03-21-2024, 06:53 AM
Phil McCracken's Avatar
Phil McCracken Phil McCracken is offline
 
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Default Kawasaki Mule 4010 question.

This is to the ones that own or are familiar with this type of side by side.

Mine is a 2014, bought new, and has 209 hours. Mostly used around the acreage hauling stuff, and plowing snow. So after the last snowstorm, was pushing snow, and the DFI light come on. Mule went into limp mode ( loss of power and rough idling). Parked it.

Did a bunch of troubleshooting possibly associated to this issue:

- Replaced the fuel pump module.
- Replaced/cleaned all air/fuel filters.
- Checked all fuses.
- Replaced oil/filter (do this once a year anyway).
- Replaced the sparkplug.

Light still on, and still on limp mode.

Now the next thing on the list is the throttle body. I read that this is an issue with the Mule. Apparently, the EPA system they have will foul up the throttle body. One of the "fix" is to clean it.

I am a bit mechanically inclined, but never cleaned a Mule throttle body before. Actually looks a bit scary compared to cars/trucks.

Info/videos pretty well none existent, or content lacking on Google.

Anyone out there can give me some tips on this? Thanx...
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Old 03-21-2024, 07:55 AM
ram crazy ram crazy is offline
 
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Check the condition of the battery and make sure you have clean positive and negative posts and where the ground attaches to the engine. Then check for a bad coil. Pull the spark plugs and see if you have spark at the plugs.
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Old 03-21-2024, 11:59 AM
HyperMOA HyperMOA is offline
 
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I helped a buddy many moons ago with this so don’t take what I have to say as gospel. There are only 3 sensors if I am remembering correctly. An atmospheric pressure sensor, coolant temp, and intake air temp. Then you have the two ignition coils that act as “speed sensors” and you have 2 injectors. Those are the only components that will cause the light to come on. If you have proper system voltage.

Personally I would start by making sure that you have a charged strong battery with clean terminals. Then remove the spark plug boots at idle and ensure both cylinders are firing. If they are, check and clean the connectors at the other components listed; also look for a loose or broken wire near them. Tug on each individual wire to make sure the wire hasn’t broken off a terminal within the connector. Like a 5 pound pull, not everything you have in you, as you shout to channel the strength of your ancient ancestors. If they are good, its time to get the multimeter out.

Last edited by HyperMOA; 03-21-2024 at 12:05 PM.
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Old 04-27-2024, 06:21 AM
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Phil McCracken Phil McCracken is offline
 
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So I followed the advice from you guys.

Checked the entire wiring system. All good.

Checked the battery (original-10 years old). Would not take a full charge. So replaced it.

Both plugs were replaced.

Purchased one of them spark plug testers. Rear coil was checked and the pulsating light displayed as it should. Front coil...nada.

Purchased a coil and replaced it.

Now purrs like a kitten, and has the power it is supposed to have. No more DFI warning light.

Thanx for your information/help...much appreciated!. Saved myself a few bucks by not taking it to a shop...
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Old 04-27-2024, 07:40 AM
HyperMOA HyperMOA is offline
 
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I am happy you updated the thread, good work on repairing it.
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