Reloading Time

[260 Rem]

How does this compare with your routine?? My “time” is typically about 1 minute per reload. This includes::: 1) wipe off case (primarily the neck) with a cloth very lightly dampened with case lube. 2) insert a bore brush into the neck and make a 1/2 turn on the way out. 3) full-length resize. 4) insert primer. 5) charge with powder. 6). seat bullet.

[huntinstuff]

Takes me about 40 minutes to make 20 rds.

That's brass that is already primed and ready to go.

I weigh powder, fill each case, calipre each complete cartridge.

I have a strict and specific method and I do not vary from it. Maybe even a tad OCD when it comes to reloading.

[260 Rem]

I missed a step, that I clean the primer pocket after the FL resize. And, I do weigh powder charges.

[REMINGTON JIM]

No BIG deal missing the cleaning of Primer Pockets - BUT I do Every one ! BUT know Guys that don't EVER clean them and shoot VERY WELL ! RJ

[elkhunter11]

Probably around 1 minute per round, but broken into four steps, full length resize(10 seconds), chamfer and clean primer pockets on Universal case prep center(10 seconds), prime with with universal hand primer(5 seconds), then dispense charges and seat bullet as next powder charge is dispensed(20-30 seconds). If cases need trimming, an extra 15 seconds or so on the Universal prep center. The Chargemaster and Universal case prep tool speed up the process considerably. This does not include set up, clean up,etc.

[Pointer man]

Can't say I have ever timed myself, but this are my steps.

1. Pour a nice Scotch with 1 large ice cube.
2. Put all brass in the tumbler and explain to the Wife that it is very important that I watch the brass in the tumbler... Might take multiple hours, with multiple glasses.
3. Remove from the tumbler and wipe of brass.
4. Go to bed
5. Forget about the brass, until the round count is ridiculously low.
6. Size brass and measure cases, trim if needed.
7. Clean up the necks and pockets
8. Primers get pressed in.
9. Lube the necks
10. Set up the Trickle charger and verify weights
11. pour powder
12. Set up the seating die and start pressing the bullets. Verifying every round at the Ogive.

If I was going to guess, I would think around 2min a round. It's usually close to an hour by the time I have 50 loaded. I've always taken my time and I am very anal when it comes to reloading.

[silvertip]

Didn't know there was a race!

What's the point?



Make sure all the required steps are done and be safe.

Done and enjoy.

[justsomeguy]

Never thought of timing myself as it’s my de-stressor from life. I tend to be a batch process kind of guy. Tumble and dry several hundred rounds in several batches, then sort into trays, then do several hundred case prep, prime, powder, seat, etc. sometimes it’s months between steps! I have an entire shelf unit with probably 2000 pieces of brass at multiple stages.

[Pathfinder76]

Brass prep. These steps every time in this order and if it’s not on there I do it never. Then of course charged and bullet added. Have no clue how long it takes. I have this checklist that stays with the brass as this prep can happen over days or weeks.

[urban rednek]

My average is 20 rounds per hour. Plenty of steps and double checks. I find the single most time consuming act is powder measurement; manual powder dump then powder trickler to finish on the beam scale.
Wouldn't do it any other way.

[58thecat]

Originally Posted by silvertip

Didn't know there was a race!

What's the point?



Make sure all the required steps are done and be safe.

Done and enjoy.

That’s what I do but once I get into it I do a lot of reloading enough to keep me happy for a year or two.
Might take a few days but when my mind is in the game I just stay at it.
Hardest part is the experimenting to get a pet load but that’s all part of the fun too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sashi]

Originally Posted by urban rednek

My average is 20 rounds per hour. Plenty of steps and double checks. I find the single most time consuming act is powder measurement; manual powder dump then powder trickler to finish on the beam scale.
Wouldn't do it any other way.

Me too.
- clean the outside of cases with rag and solvent, steel wool if necessary
- measure and trim
-debur
-lube inside neck, outside case, and neck
-Resize
-wipe outside of brass with rag
-clean primer pocket
-Insert primers
-load with powder
-seat bullets
Clean up area.

[Coiloil37]

I prefer to keep my fired brass supply prepped and ready to load.

After it’s been fired it goes in an ammo can. When I have enough to make it worth the trouble I;

Case lube
Resize
Tumble
Trim if required
Clean primer pockets
Chamfer
Clean inside of neck
Throw into the next container so it’s ready to load.


When I need to load I

Hand prime the batch
Weigh each charge, pour powder into case and seat bullet while the next charge is being weighed.


Can’t imagine why you guys tumble before you put case lube on. Or try and clean the case lube off after…?

I’ve never timed it either, seems irrelevant.

[obsessed1]

Originally Posted by Coiloil37

I prefer to keep my fired brass supply prepped and ready to load.

After it’s been fired it goes in an ammo can. When I have enough to make it worth the trouble I;

Case lube
Resize
Tumble
Trim if required
Clean primer pockets
Chamfer
Clean inside of neck
Throw into the next container so it’s ready to load.


When I need to load I

Hand prime the batch
Weigh each charge, pour powder into case and seat bullet while the next charge is being weighed.


Can’t imagine why you guys tumble before you put case lube on. Or try and clean the case lube off after…?

I’ve never timed it either, seems irrelevant.

I tumble first so I can both clearly identify any defects as well as completely clean the case before I put it in my expensive die. A rang on my knee and a quick roll removes any excess case lube.

[Pathfinder76]

Originally Posted by obsessed1

I tumble first so I can both clearly identify any defects as well as completely clean the case before I put it in my expensive die. A rang on my knee and a quick roll removes any excess case lube.

Can anyone that has damaged a die with unclean brass please step forward. Dies are a fantastic way to clean brass. :-)

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by Pathfinder76

Can anyone that has damaged a die with unclean brass please step forward. Dies are a fantastic way to clean brass. :-)

I always clean my brass first, not tumbling always, but clean, yes, for that very reason!
Cat

[Coiloil37]

Originally Posted by obsessed1

I tumble first so I can both clearly identify any defects as well as completely clean the case before I put it in my expensive die. A rang on my knee and a quick roll removes any excess case lube.

I guess if I was paranoid about that I would tumble twice. Once before resizing and once after.

That said, my brass aren’t dirty and I’ve never damaged a die so it’s never been on my radar. I inspect them after they’re resized and prior to priming.

[257STW]

Hello,

Mine is broken into stages so I really can't give a time per round. I know when I started 30 plus years ago an evening with the wife would get me 40 shells. Mostly because of the balance beam scale.

Non-target Ammo:
1) Deprime with Lee Die so primer pockets get cleaned
2) Stainless Steel Media Tumble
3) Separate Brass from Media and Air Dry - use an old dehydrator if in a rush
4)Homemade spray Lube - recipe below - and let dry
5)Size
6)Rinse in a bucket to remove water soluble lube
7)Air dry cases or dehydrator if in a rush
8)Check length and Trim if Necessary, chamfer and debur
9)Hand Prime and place in loading block
10) Throw Powder - 3 Lyman Auto Tricklers Running Simultaneously makes it fast
11) Seat Bullet
12 Inspect and place in box

Homemade Lube - Ive been on the same bottle for over 10 years!
Get a 2oz bottle of RCBS Case Lube 2
"This excellent non-toxic lubricant is water soluble and wipes off easily with no sticky residue. Use it with RCBS® Lube Dies or Case Lube Pad."

Pour entire bottle Case Lube 2 into an empty spray bottle of about 500ml capacity that can do a fine mist. Add rubbing alcohol 70% or higher to fill (about 500ml but mix is not critical). The higher the alcohol percentage the faster the dry. The Case Lube 2 will dissolve in the alcohol.

Place cases necks facing you and touching side by side on a cookie sheet or similar (I use a plastic tray). Aim a single or double spray to catch case neck (inside and out) as well as case body. Roll cases ever so slightly by shaking tray and repeat spray. When lube is wet it flows around case body. Let lube dry. Cases should now have a thin layer of lube on them like when you use a case lube pad. Adjust your Case Lube 2 dilution to match your technique and desired amount of lube.
I honestly keep topping up the bottle with rubbing alcohol until my lube feels too thin after drying. This lube is water soluble so it comes off easily.

This tip came out of necessity when spray lube wasn't easily available, expensive or not water soluble. I have never had a stuck case unless I was a dumb#$% and didn't lube - example just resizing a single case and figuring the die had enough lube in it.

One bottle of case lube 2 should last years and rubbing alcohol is readily available - although more pricey since Covid.

Enjoy!

Cheers
Max

[no-regard]

Originally Posted by Sashi

Me too.
- clean the outside of cases with rag and solvent, steel wool if necessary
- measure and trim
-debur
-lube inside neck, outside case, and neck
-Resize
-wipe outside of brass with rag
-clean primer pocket
-Insert primers
-load with powder
-seat bullets
Clean up area.

Do you really trim before sizing? Seems to me that's an error.

[Pathfinder76]

Originally Posted by catnthehat

I always clean my brass first, not tumbling always, but clean, yes, for that very reason!
Cat

I’m curious now. Have you seen damage to a die from not cleaning brass before sizing? I’m talking about brass dirty from firing, not brass that has been dropped in the mud.

[FishOutOfWater]

I'm curious, are there any other members who have read or heard it's not recommended to lube the inside of the case neck ?

I seem to recall being told to brush the neck clean & dry. No lube.

[Pathfinder76]

It’s an absolute wives tale. I lube them twice.

[Sashi]

Originally Posted by no-regard

Do you really trim before sizing? Seems to me that's an error.

Yes I always trim before sizing, and trim to 5 to 10 thou below max. No problems. Why would you think this was a concern.

[Dick284]

I have never timed my process.

It takes what it takes, and it’s supposed to be fun, a hobby, and relaxing…….

[JBE]

You fellas lubing inside the neck prior to seating a bullet, what are you using?

[Pathfinder76]

Hornady One Shot

[Sashi]

Originally Posted by no-regard

Do you really trim before sizing? Seems to me that's an error.

Thanks for the heads up, I checked the measurements before and after resizing, and found the cases grew by .007"to .009". I will change my procedure.

[Savage Bacon]

Originally Posted by Pathfinder76

Hornady One Shot

Do you find with all the brass standing up, giving a full gentle spray is enough to get some inside the case? Or are you rubbing some in?

Sent from my SM-G970W using Tapatalk

[no-regard]

Originally Posted by Sashi

Yes I always trim before sizing, and trim to 5 to 10 thou below max. No problems. Why would you think this was a concern.

In my experience (always learning, not trying to be a know-it-all) trim to length is based on the dimensions of a sized case. Trimming before sizing might lead to cases that are too short, or maybe it could be said they are shorter than they need to be.

Also, case length will change during sizing - neck and body.

[no-regard]

Originally Posted by Sashi

Thanks for the heads up, I checked the measurements before and after resizing, and found the cases grew by .007"to .009". I will change my procedure.

Just saw this reply, after typing a response to your first response... if that makes sense.

Hopefully this new process works for you.