Downriggers - what do I need to know?

[jpohlic]

We're headed to the Shuswap for a week this summer and from what I've read a downrigger will help a lot. I've never fished with one before but I've been reading up on them and watched a few youtube videos and they look pretty straight forward.

It would be going on a Bayliner 175 that is primarily used for hauling the kids around on a tube, however I like to fish when I get the chance. I don't imagine it would get used more than once a year so I'm leaning towards a manual model.

What should I be looking for and how and where should it be mounted in this type of boat? Pic is the same model but mine has back to back seats on both sides.

[Bigdad013]

http://scotty.com/fishing-gear-equip...rongman-24.htm


This is a good manual downrigger, from looking at the pics, behind the captains chair might be the spot, might be a bit tough mounting as the mounting area looks a little skinny. But I'm sure it could be done. Don't mount them by the back seats as it will just get in the way.

Let me know where you will be fishing, I'd be glad to give you some pointers for the area

[s_erickson]

Yes using a downrigger that is already set up is a dream. I have the electric models on my boat and they are awesome, that being said i have set them up myself to work with what i do. If you do go electric make sure you set your stops so that it doesnt slam into the hull of your boat if your busy fighting a fish for a while and the ball is up to high. Using manual riggers when you bring it up make sure you leave the ball far enough in the water it wont slam into your boat when its rocking in the waves. You can also get the ropes that slip over the cable to allow you to pull the ball over easier. For long battles its nice to have someone actually pull the ball right out of the water and into the holders (also something that is smart to invest in). Good clips for your line is important, i use scotty's and they last a long time. you want to be able to keep lots of tension on your line to allow good hook sets without false tripping all the time. Your going to want to do alot of research on your specific boat as to where you can mount them, and if you dont feel comfortable bring it to a boat shop that can do it for you. ALWAYS drill gelcoat backwards at first. Once its set up you'll love it, but getting it the way you like it might take a couple outings.

[dodgeboy1979]

i believe scotty has a clamp on mount that may work the best then you have no holes to drill etc...

[EZM]

Originally Posted by dodgeboy1979

i believe scotty has a clamp on mount that may work the best then you have no holes to drill etc...

The clamp on units may not be great on a glass hull and i doubt they would fit to be honest.

I would spend a little more money and get a Scotty 1080 and mount it properly with a strong backer board.

Putting riggers on ski boats with a convex glass surface is not a do-it-yourself thing unless you know what you are doing. The hulls are not designed for riggers and will require proper blocking and support. Cut corners and your fiberglass will explode on the lake and take your rigger to the bottom.

The other option is running dipsy divers - they are effective but require a stiffer rod and line counter reel to be most effective.

[dodgeboy1979]

The other option is running dipsy divers - they are effective but require a stiffer rod and line counter reel to be most effective.[/QUOTE]

second this i have ran pink ladies for the few times i go after lakers in the summer and have had good success

[Agb Crash]

I have the same boat. We mounted 2 downriggers on the back right at the swim ladder. Used the swivel pedestal mount and only the flat black plate stays when rigger not in use
Works well. When mounting second one becareful of openeing nad closing of gas cap when rigger is in place.
http://www.scotty.com/fishing-gear-e...ivel-mount.htm

[Mark]

Originally Posted by EZM

The clamp on units may not be great on a glass hull and i doubt they would fit to be honest.

I would spend a little more money and get a Scotty 1080 and mount it properly with a strong backer board.

Putting riggers on ski boats with a convex glass surface is not a do-it-yourself thing unless you know what you are doing. The hulls are not designed for riggers and will require proper blocking and support. Cut corners and your fiberglass will explode on the lake and take your rigger to the bottom.

The other option is running dipsy divers - they are effective but require a stiffer rod and line counter reel to be most effective.

Completely agree. Don't do it yourself unless you're really experenced and definately use the mounts. Do it wrong and you'll just have trouble and most likely will severely damage your boat. IMO its not worth the risk.

[Bigdad013]

Originally Posted by Agb Crash

I have the same boat. We mounted 2 downriggers on the back right at the swim ladder. Used the swivel pedestal mount and only the flat black plate stays when rigger not in use
Works well. When mounting second one becareful of openeing nad closing of gas cap when rigger is in place.
http://www.scotty.com/fishing-gear-e...ivel-mount.htm

That sounds like a very inconvenient spot to put them. Maybe I'm just having a hard time picturing it, seems like it would be a lot of reaching and bending over to set up the rods.

[Mike_W]

I would try divers as mentioned... that boat just aint made for downriggers. If you are set on downriggers the only spot would be where Agb Crash said....Are the rear seats removable?

[Bigdad013]

On my last boat, I had the same problem, only had about 2" to mount. The place I took it to, made an aluminum plate the size of the mount, then extended it out another 6" and then bent it down to the outside of the boat where 2 bolts fastened it to the side, 2 to the top and the mounting plate had 4 bolts. (Total 4 bolts into the boat, 2 on top,2 on the side) It was very strong and did the trick. Very clean installation as well. I tried to get a pic, a little blurry after blowing it up.

[TROLLER]

If you don't want to buy a downrigger and don't think you will use it a lot then why not go with the 3way rig.

Most outfitters in the north are using them I have used them in both Spray and Minnewonka with good results.

Just google it up and you will find pics.

[mikebossy]

Troller, how big a weight would you use? to go how deep?

thanx

[Mike_W]

10-15 lb

[TROLLER]

Originally Posted by mikebossy

Troller, how big a weight would you use? to go how deep?

thanx

3 oz. will take you where you ant to go no problem I also use 6ft of leader on the top, most say the same lenghth as the weight but I do not believe it is effective that way.

I also use the Snap Weight System from time to time.

both work well but the 3 way is my go too

[EZM]

Originally Posted by TROLLER

If you don't want to buy a downrigger and don't think you will use it a lot then why not go with the 3way rig.

Most outfitters in the north are using them I have used them in both Spray and Minnewonka with good results.

Just google it up and you will find pics.

This is not a sarcastic question - but maybe an opportunity to learn something for me.....

Why would you use a 3 way set up, that could tangle up when you can accomplish the exact same thing as running an in-line mooching sinker with a bead chain swivel?

I set mine up like this;

1) Main line to swivel
2) swivel to 1oz-6oz mooching sinker
3) attach a bead chain swivel

4) run my flouro/mono and flasher/spoon or fenders/snubber/spoon or whatever I want trailing it.

Just curious what advantage a 3 way gives you .....

[TROLLER]

That is why I run a 3ft. leader on the sinker and a 6ft on the lure line.

Never snags or tangles and works great. I also use a reel with a line counter so it takes the guess work out of how deep I am fishing.

The snap weights work great too. Usually you would let out 5oft of line then snap on the weight and let out another 50 or more depending on how deep you are going to fish. The size of weight also determines how deep your hook is going to run. They cost about 40 bucks for a full set and you can get tham at Bass.

The 3 way is the cheapest. A 3 way swivel with a 3 oz sinker.

[EZM]

Originally Posted by TROLLER

That is why I run a 3ft. leader on the sinker and a 6ft on the lure line.

Never snags or tangles and works great. I also use a reel with a line counter so it takes the guess work out of how deep I am fishing.

The snap weights work great too. Usually you would let out 5oft of line then snap on the weight and let out another 50 or more depending on how deep you are going to fish. The size of weight also determines how deep your hook is going to run. They cost about 40 bucks for a full set and you can get tham at Bass.

The 3 way is the cheapest. A 3 way swivel with a 3 oz sinker.

I understand the concept - just trying to figure out how that is better or what possible advantage it has over an in-line sinker.

Maybe the compound angle? That would be the only difference that I could think of.

Jet Divers or Smaller Dipsy's (with a reel counter) would give you exacting depth control - not sure how a sinker of any sort (in-line or 3 way) could do that (with or without a line counter).

We have great luck on Waterhen (deep summer walleyes) dragging a 20/30 jet diver in front of a lure.

I have also done very well on a dipsy diver for Lakers.

The Dipsy diver out fishes my rigger all the time !!!!

Most times (prairie fishing) me and my buddy just drag dipsys and leave the rigger collecting dust - just crank one Left and the other to the Right (direction and depth control).

[bobalong]

Originally Posted by EZM

I understand the concept - just trying to figure out how that is better or what possible advantage it has over an in-line sinker.

Maybe the compound angle? That would be the only difference that I could think of.

Jet Divers or Smaller Dipsy's (with a reel counter) would give you exacting depth control - not sure how a sinker of any sort (in-line or 3 way) could do that (with or without a line counter).

We have great luck on Waterhen (deep summer walleyes) dragging a 20/30 jet diver in front of a lure.

I have also done very well on a dipsy diver for Lakers.

The Dipsy diver out fishes my rigger all the time !!!!

Most times (prairie fishing) me and my buddy just drag dipsys and leave the rigger collecting dust - just crank one Left and the other to the Right (direction and depth control).

I have used Dipsys for lake trout, but even with a line counter, I was never really sure how deep they were running, when I caught fish I just checked the line counter and duplicated it. How do you know exactly how deep they are running, or are you just going off the scale that comes with them?

[EZM]

Originally Posted by bobalong

I have used Dipsys for lake trout, but even with a line counter, I was never really sure how deep they were running, when I caught fish I just checked the line counter and duplicated it. How do you know exactly how deep they are running, or are you just going off the scale that comes with them?

If I know I'm going strictly deep water trolling - I have my transducer tipped a little back (one click) when trolling in deep water. Raise the sensitivity setting a bit and you will see your Dipsy and know exactly where she is running.

The charts on the Dispy will get you very close to the running depth - I typically run braid so my line is getting down 5%-10% deeper (as a general rule of thumb).

On Dipsy's you definitely need a line counter reel.

I run the magnums (they dive deep) but click them 2 right (or left) so you loose a little depth - if you follow the charts it also shows offset running rates.

Works fantastic.

[jpohlic]

Thanks for all the great info so far.

I've never heard of a dipsy diver but after looking into them I think I'll try that first before mounting a downrigger. I've got a rod that should handle it but I don't have a linecounter reel. Are the clip on line counters any good or just worthless junk?

Back to the downriggers though, there is room in front of the windshield to mount one with easy access to add a backing plate. I'd need a longer arm on it but was wondering how inconvenient it would be mounted there. I currently have my rod holder there and it's pretty easy to grab when I'm sitting at the wheel.

[jpohlic]

Originally Posted by Bigdad013

Let me know where you will be fishing, I'd be glad to give you some pointers for the area

We'll be staying on East Shuswap Lake near Marble Point. Any fishing tips would be appreciated as most of my fishing experience has been with a fly rod in mountain streams/small lakes or fishing for pike/walleye.

[EZM]

Originally Posted by jpohlic

We'll be staying on East Shuswap Lake near Marble Point. Any fishing tips would be appreciated as most of my fishing experience has been with a fly rod in mountain streams/small lakes or fishing for pike/walleye.

I have not used a clip on line counter - so I don't know if they are worth it or not.

Dipsy's will require a rod with a pretty firm spine as they pull pretty hard.

In terms of fishing Shuswap - here a few suggestions to start off your Dipsy diver OR Downirigger (set up is same after that);

Rainbows .....

Run a flasher to 36" of mono to a lure. Popular lure choices are hoochies, apex or even coyote spoons. J-Plugs or Lymans also work but will require a shorter set back or can be used without a flasher.

Troll for rainbows at 2.4 to 3.5 mph and vary the speed.

Drag your gear throught he mass of the fish you spot holding. Rainbows like it shallower typically.

Laker .......

Run a dodger (not flasher) back 24"-48" to a william wobbler, canadian wiggler, or a rapala/plug which has a (slow wobble pattern). Rapala's website shows you the action of each lure under water. I find lakers like to hit a wider slower occilation compare to other species for some reason.

You can also substitute a ford fender or willow leaf in place of the dodger.

A few general ideas.....for both Rainbow and Lakers

Snubber or No snubber - depending if you are getting a hard smashing hit and not hooking them up, tearing hooks out, size of fish or etc....consider experimenting with or without a snubber.

Off set - Even if I run only one dispsy I crank it hard 2-3 clicks left or right for lakers - it makes the lures run up and down and creates a wobble as the dispsy contines to try and adjust itself. Running one our 3 clicks to the left, for example, will make the presentation drop down and dart to the right when you cut the throttle.

Line twist and tangles - Always use bead chain swivels to eliminate line twist and subsiquent tangles. I use 2 to 3 of them in my set ups on coast lock snaps. Makes a big difference.

Experiment and Replicate - Boat speed, depth, lures, colors, set back (from ball to lure or dipsy to lure), off set (left ot right) and distnace between flasher and lure ......... so many variables ..........start in the middle of the spectrum with one rod and play with the second rod.

Boat control - lots of "S" patterns, speed adjustement are key - trolling at a steady pace in a straight line does not produce fish as well.

Consider planer boards - I like running sa surface lure like a big black and silver fly on the surface at break neck speeds off a planner board (4mph) when there is just a little chop and the rainbows are just below surface. Sometimes this is the ticket.

hope that helps - let us know how you do.

[cube]

Originally Posted by jpohlic

Back to the downriggers though, there is room in front of the windshield to mount one with easy access to add a backing plate. I'd need a longer arm on it but was wondering how inconvenient it would be mounted there. I currently have my rod holder there and it's pretty easy to grab when I'm sitting at the wheel.

You have to be careful in mounting your rigger to far forward. if you do you might catch your rigger cable in your prop and that would make for a bad day.

get a copy of "Cabela's Downrigger Fishing Techniques Book" it is inexpensive and goes over the basics very well. It covers different methods of mounting your rigger, rigger placement etc. etc.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Hobbi...ook/737227.uts

The info the others have given you is very good but the book has pictures and a bit more info.


Hope you have a great trip

[huntsfurfish]

It is a good book, Also available at WSS and other places without the Cabela name brand. Just called Downrigger Fishing techniques.