Depriming brass

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by gitrdun

But JOHN_R1. I don't see how 1/8 turn or 1/4 turn is any different from one another. If you've raised the ram full stroke and indexed the die against the shell holder, turning it down 1/8 or 1/4 or 1/2 or a full turn still accomplishes the same amount of FL sizing, or shoulder bump I should say. Once the shell holder comes in contact with the bottom of the die, that's it, you can't push the case further into the die no matter how many turns you've added downward. Controlling the amount of "shoulder bump" on my bench is accomplished by taking a reference measurement with a gauge that fits on the calipers and references the "datum" line on the bullet ogive. I then adjust my die in accordance to where I wish to go from the reference measurement. To each their own, but I don't smoke a shoulder and use that as a means to measure, I much prefer actual measuring instruments.

Adding more preload after the die bottoms against the shellholder at full stroke just puts more stain on the press linkage. It doesn't size the case any more.
I generally run new brass through a neck die just to get any small nicks or dents out of the case neck. If I don't have a neck die, I partial length size new brass in a FL die to get any dents out of the neck. After that I neck size or partial FL size until the cases start requiring some effort to chamber. Then I set the FL or body die up with a bit of clearance between the die and shell holder, and run a few cases through the press. I adjust the die down in small increments until the cases just chamber without resistance, and that becomes my FL or body die adjustment from that point forward.

[gitrdun]

^^^ haha! you missed my typo elk. I said "bullet ogive". Realized my mistake and corrected it to say "shoulder datum". But you had quoted my post before I edited it. Maybe you just let me off the hook....but somehow I doubt it.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by gitrdun

^^^ haha! you missed my typo elk. I said "bullet ogive". Realized my mistake and corrected it to say "shoulder datum". But you had quoted my post before I edited it. Maybe you just let me off the hook....but somehow I doubt it.

As soon as I saw the part about taking a measurement with a gauge, I skipped right by your typo.

[gitrdun]

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

As soon as I saw the part about taking a measurement with a gauge, I skipped right by your typo.

And for my part, which you'll be happy to learn is that I also go through the procedure of checking the "bumped" case in the rifle just as you do. However, taking and recording the measurement from head to shoulder datum allows for me to replicate that for subsequent loads. I may use the same die to size cases for various rifles. This is were a recorded value comes in handy.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by gitrdun

And for my part, which you'll be happy to learn is that I also go through the procedure of checking the "bumped" case in the rifle just as you do. However, taking and recording the measurement from head to shoulder datum allows for me to replicate that for subsequent loads. I may use the same die to size cases for various rifles. This is were a recorded value comes in handy.

I only have one firearm in each chambering myself, so once my die is set where I want it, the lock ring is locked, and I don't have to set it up again for that application. If I had multiple rifles in the same chambering, I would likely go with the micrometer FL die to simplify things even more.

[CMichaud]

I may be incorrect on this but I thought that mil spec rounds had the primers held in with a crimp?

Not sure if this is milsurps but just a thought

Edit - I see you mention factory loaded

[purgatory.sv]

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

I only have one firearm in each chambering myself, so once my die is set where I want it, the lock ring is locked, and I don't have to set it up again for that application. If I had multiple rifles in the same chambering, I would likely go with the micrometer FL die to simplify things even more.

If it’s in the budget I purchase another die, I like shiny objects.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by purgatory.sv

If it’s in the budget I purchase another die, I like shiny objects.

A second FL die is another option. They can be purchased separately.

[qwert]

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

I only have one firearm in each chambering myself, so once my die is set where I want it, the lock ring is locked, and I don't have to set it up again for that application. If I had multiple rifles in the same chambering, I would likely go with the micrometer FL die to simplify things even more.

IIRC you use the Redding Type S ($) series of bushing dies. AFAIK the FL dies do not adjust the shoulder bump but rather the amount/length of neck sizing performed by the bushing. I have several Redding Competition 3 die sets ($$$) which have a moving case guide similar to the Match Seater and a micrometer adjustment for the neck bushing. The Competition die sets use a separate solid non-adjustable 'body die' for FL sizing.

To control shoulder bump without needing to reset the die/press adjustment, or measure using a comparator, I use the Redding Competition Shell holders ($$) which are a 5pc set in .002 increments of additional height. These shell holders allow the die to be used with solid contact and die position in the press is irrelevant. They allow very good repeatable control of shoulder bump, and are very quick to setup using past loading log data. They can be used with the Type S or any other brand of FL die.

Good Luck, YMMV.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by qwert

IIRC you use the Redding Type S ($) series of bushing dies. AFAIK the FL dies do not adjust the shoulder bump but rather the amount/length of neck sizing performed by the bushing. I have several Redding Competition 3 die sets ($$$) which have a moving case guide similar to the Match Seater and a micrometer adjustment for the neck bushing. The Competition die sets use a separate solid non-adjustable 'body die' for FL sizing.

To control shoulder bump without needing to reset the die/press adjustment, or measure using a comparator, I use the Redding Competition Shell holders ($$) which are a 5pc set in .002 increments of additional height. These shell holders allow the die to be used with solid contact and die position in the press is irrelevant. They allow very good repeatable control of shoulder bump, and are very quick to setup using past loading log data. They can be used with the Type S or any other brand of FL die.

Good Luck, YMMV.

I don't use the competition FL set, preferring the match neck bushing 3 die set, but if the micrometer adjustment does not let you control the adjustment of the shoulder position, I really don't see the point of it at all. I will stick with setting the FL or body die by trying the sized case in the rifle and then locking the die in the position that I desire. That has worked fine for me.

[qwert]

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

I don't use the competition FL set, preferring the match neck bushing 3 die set, but if the micrometer adjustment does not let you control the adjustment of the shoulder position, I really don't see the point of it at all. I will stick with setting the FL or body die by trying the sized case in the rifle and then locking the die in the position that I desire. That has worked fine for me.

I suspect we are talking about the same sets.

The Competition #3 die sets I use contain
a neck sizing die with a sliding case guide and micrometer adjustable neck bushing,
a solid non adjustable FL body sizing die,
a match seating die with a sliding case guide and floating micrometer adjustable seating stem. I also use the optional seating stems for VLD bullets.

Some shooters prefer differing amounts of neck length sized, IMHO the micrometer bushing adjustment is not very important. IMHO their best feature is the sliding case guide which better aligns the case for a more concentric neck sizing operation.

These dies are very expensive and require a substantial investment in TiNi bushings to properly adjust neck tension with varying case neck wall thickness. I turn my necks to uniform case neck wall thickness and neck tension. I leave my neck turners adjusted to my personal standard neck wall thickness for consistency. I also have optional carbide expanders for use when I am waiting for exact bushing needed, but normally use bushing only without any expander.

IMHO these dies are MUCH better than standard hunter class dies with internal expanders, but I also have great regard for the LEE Collet Neck dies and Dead Length Seaters, which are a MUCH more cost effective alternative. Unfortunately they are not available for 338LM or many other calibers.

The really important fact is that all Redding (or LEE) dies are not the same and can produce quite different quality results.

Good Luck, YMMV.