Compressor repair - Calgary ?

J0HN_R1 · #1 03-29-2017, 04:10 PM

Where's a good place to call, preferably someone who's mobile cause this thing is too heavy to lift, to look at/repair an old compressor ?

It has newer parts (motor & compressor) and appears to just need a couple parts (fittings) & some TLC to have it up & running again.

It's a Brunner H3A...

Ivo · #2 03-29-2017, 09:40 PM

Pump & Pressure or maybe Prime Fasteners

Commander B · #3 03-29-2017, 10:03 PM

James Electric or CAE Central Air.

B..

J0HN_R1 · #4 03-29-2017, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ivo

Pumps & Pressure...

That's who I was leaning towards. And they're close to my place.

This is what had me sold;

Quote:

Repairs for air compressors regardless of brand, model and manufacturer ! We service ALL brands

Gonna strip everything off the tank, sandblast it, then repaint it... Have them re-assemble/fix it.

hillbillyreefer · #5 03-30-2017, 07:59 AM

Why not see if she works before spending money on it, she may not need anything.

All I can see that it needs is the pressure switch screwed into the fitting right underneath it, and a cord with a plugin wired to the other side of the pressure switch.

It will take 1/2hr to have it ready to run, if you consume an entire 6pack while doing the job.

That's a cool piece of history and will be a conversation piece when finished up. Post some pictures please.

Edit:
When you start it up watch the pressure gauge and make sure the switch cuts outs at a safe pressure.

reelhooker · #6 03-30-2017, 10:08 AM

waldo

google it or ask me where waldo is

J0HN_R1 · #7 03-30-2017, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hillbillyreefer

That's a cool piece of history, and will be a conversation piece when finished up. Post some pictures please...

I found these on the web the other day and thought it turned out pretty sweet, guy in Quebec restored one almost identical to mine. Kinda my inspiration...

J0HN_R1 · #8 03-30-2017, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reelhooker

waldo

google it or ask me where waldo is

I know where Waldo is... He's down off Blackfoot, barely a block from our Head Office on 42nd.

Thx !

J0HN_R1 · #9 03-31-2017, 01:56 AM

So I tore it all apart, inspected the pressure-switch/motor/compressor, cleaned everything top-to-bottom (including sanding the wooden stands)...

Results:

- right off the bat I'm gonna need a pressure regulator & a dryer/filter, going with 1/4" NPT units.

- motor had a "clicking" sound when spinning the pulley, either direction. Removed pulley & motor cover, fan had crept back on the shaft slightly and the blades were contacting a couple protruding screws "ever-so-slightly". I loosed the retaining screws, moved fan forward 4-5mm & retightened, problem solved.

- I didn't like where someone (not the factory) had routed the main 1" line from the compressor to the tank, nor did I like the path the 1/8" line took from the tank to the pressure switch. Re-routed both, happy they're moved away from the belt/pulleys.

- I called the old-man (red-seal journeyman) to chat about the electrictity/power, to make sure everything seemed Kosher. After a few emailed pics, an hour long convo & a promise by me to check the voltage in the VX-cable coming out of the panel (to the pressure switch) with a multi-meter to ensure I have 220/240v, it loks like I'm good to go.

- Finally, after re-assembling everything & cobling the few NPT nipples/elbows/reducers I had together, I'm to the point where I need to find out if the pressure switch is functioning. It looks pretty rough, missing the cover & a couple chips out of the plastic inside, and there's no actual "switch" to turn it to "OFF" or "AUTO"...

Making a trip to Pumps & Pressure tomorrow, just gonna take the switch in. The bare tank weighs 75-100 lbs, no motor or compressor.

Also gonna grab a set of castors, a welders 240v plug & recepticle, a 'Y' manifold/splitter, and a few quick-connect couplers. Should be up & running by the weekend !

Pics tomorrow/today...

recce43 · #10 03-31-2017, 06:34 AM

we use pumps and pressure at work

Commander B · #11 03-31-2017, 10:09 AM

If you note the center spokes on your compressor wheel, when they turn in proper rotation they will blow air over both the compressor and the discharge line. Your Internet example still has the original tube with the cooling fins. It's routed there for a reason.

B.

J0HN_R1 · #12 03-31-2017, 04:58 PM

Put everything back together today, before going to P&P... IT'S ALIVE !!!

But, the pressure switch is hooped. It has an air leak.

Went to P&P, didn't have what I needed so he sent me to CAE. Heading there tomorrow.

No other leaks during the quick pressure-test of the vessel, so I'm happy with that !

Commander B · #13 03-31-2017, 05:46 PM

Do you have closer pics of the pressure switch? The dev 220 head has a pressure unloader on the back . This activates when it turns off to release pressure from the discharge line so that the next time it starts there is less load on the motor. It may be that you require a pressure switch with a dump. The pressure switch may also be fine and the air is coming thru the check valve in the tank.
Does the 1/8 line run from the main discharge line to the side of the pressure switch?

B.

michaelmicallef · #14 03-31-2017, 09:11 PM

Nice job. That was a real compressor back when Devair made decent stuff. Now they barely make a decent boat anchor. You did change the oil too?

J0HN_R1 · #15 04-01-2017, 12:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Commander B

Do you have closer pics of the pressure switch? The dev 220 head has a pressure unloader on the back. This activates when it turns off, to release pressure from the discharge line so that the next time it starts there is less load on the motor.

It may be that you require a pressure switch with a dump. The pressure switch may also be fine and the air is coming thru the check valve in the tank. Does the 1/8 line run from the main discharge line to the side of the pressure switch?

B.

The current switch has an unloader, but requires a second 1/8" line to run back to the tank (not connected).

So when the tank reaches max-pressure, the switch opens (breaking the circuit) and the pump stops.

But the unloader valve is hissing like a banshee, dumping pressure rapidly from the un-connected orifice.

I plugged the hole with my thumb but the actuator/valve is still leaking, the one that's attached to the side of the "pressure switch".

Not only that, but the cover's missing (230v terminals exposed) and there' no actual "ON / OFF" switch.

Nor is there a cord/plug, it was hard-wired. I want a new switch as much as I need one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by michaelmicallef

Nice job. That was a real compressor back when DeVilbiss made decent stuff. Now they barely make a decent boat anchor. You did change the oil too?

DeVilbiss still makes some decent products. I've used their paint-guns in a commercial setting, and they held their own...

Didn't need to change the oil, it was full and crystal clear (with a very-very slight yellow tinge) ! I will before winter comes back again.

Thanks for the compliments !

J0HN_R1 · #16 04-03-2017, 03:10 PM

Went to Central Air Equipment today... Not really good news.

- parts to get the compressor running properly = ~$200 (on top of the $60 I already spent)

- 3/4 hp motor & DeVilbiss 220 pump won't put out more than ~5 cfm @ 50/50 duty-cycle and would constantly be running (@ 240v/40a = $$$)

- tank is a 60gal Brunner circa 1956... Any home/city inspector would want it removed, and commercial work with it is a definite no-go (max tank-life = 10 yrs).

So although the individual parts (pump & motor) have some value, it's not worth repairing. In their opinion, and mine...