How often do you clean your .22 rimfire barrel

[pikergolf]

Just curious as to how often your .22 barrels get cleaned. I have heard of everything from often, to never, and all the variables in between. Thoughts and why you do as you do?

[catnthehat]

Years ago (1968) as a young shooter at the Nats in Ottawa ,I was talking to a master class shooter about cleaning smallbore match rifles .
I had mention that so and so had stated that he never cleaned his rifle
" how many times have you seen HIM place in the top the 3 of the Grand Agg?"
"Never, why?"
That should answer your question !"
Was all he said
My smallbore match rifles get cleaned after each day's use.
Cat

[muirsy]

I run a boresnake with a little oil on it down the barrel after every camping trip or plinking session. It literally takes 2 minutes. A couple times a year I'll take the bolt out and give everything a solid spray & oil. It's a Henry lever action as reference

[58thecat]

After the winter and before the fall, she goes through a lot of shells but keeps on ticking, if she gums up then I will clean the action area other than that not much at all.

[barsik]

It depends on the rifle or pistol. some guns with ultra smooth bores will print nice tiny groups for a long time before they need attention and others get lead fouled fairly quickly. each gun is different, deal with it on your terms.

[Twisted Canuck]

If I use my firearms, regardless of rimfire, centerfire, pistol rifle shotgun....I clean and oil them. Cleanliness is a good thing. Would you drive your vehicle and never change the oil, belts, brake pads?.....maintenance and looking after what you worked hard to buy just seems smart. Is there some myth that a rimfire doesn't need to be cleaned and can remain accurate and reliable? After 500 rounds or more in a gopher patch, my rimfires are filthy, how could you not clean them?

[Coiloil37]

My 10/22 shoots groups about as big as my thumb nail at 20-30 yards. Good enough to head shoot chicken or hit a gopher. I've had it about 15 years and this fall was the first time I cleaned it. I didn't see many dirty patches come out of it and it didn't improve accuracy so it won't be getting cleaned again in the near future.

[260 Rem]

It is my understanding ..... that lead is a "natural" lubricant. Many .22 rimfire manufacturers coat lead bullets with wax or grease based lubes. Others use a copper wash. 22's operate at relatively low bore temperatures and pressures. Consequently, lead build-up in the bore is much slower than the copper fouling seen in high pressure/temperature centerfires. Carbon can build up in the "throat" area. At least, that is what I think
Good advice would be to run an oil patch after every outing. Personally, I clean the bore if the rifle will sit for an extended period...using a combination of lead and carbon "solvents".
When testing various brands of .22 ammo, I either clean between change-overs or shoot at least ten shots with the "new" stuff before assssing performance. It is my belief that it is necessary to purge the "old" lube type before getting serious about laying down a bore coating with "new" lube. ie: between wax lubed bullets and grease lubed bullets. Hope this makes sense.

[pikergolf]

Originally Posted by 260 Rem

It is my understanding ..... that lead is a "natural" lubricant. Many .22 rimfire manufacturers coat lead bullets with wax or grease based lubes. Others use a copper wash. 22's operate at relatively low bore temperatures and pressures. Consequently, lead build-up in the bore is much slower than the copper fouling seen in high pressure/temperature centerfires. Carbon can build up in the "throat" area. At least, that is what I think
Good advice would be to run an oil patch after every outing. Personally, I clean the bore if the rifle will sit for an extended period...using a combination of lead and carbon "solvents".
When testing various brands of .22 ammo, I either clean between change-overs or shoot at least ten shots with the "new" stuff before assssing performance. It is my belief that it is necessary to purge the "old" lube type before getting serious about laying down a bore coating with "new" lube. ie: between wax lubed bullets and grease lubed bullets. Hope this makes sense.

What would be a good solvent for this?

[Random_randall]

Originally Posted by muirsy

I run a boresnake with a little oil on it down the barrel after every camping trip or plinking session. It literally takes 2 minutes. A couple times a year I'll take the bolt out and give everything a solid spray & oil. It's a Henry lever action as reference

What Muirsy said! For a 2min job with a bore snake and a wipe down of the bolt and a light coat of oil. Its kind of therapeutic after weekend or a day out.

[M70]

I find that I notice that the chamber gets dirty long before I notice any drop in accuracy. If I seem to have problems with feeding or extraction, then I guess it's time to have a cleaning. Sometimes a spray can of solvent might have to do in a pinch if I'm out shooting somewhere.

I'm the first to admit that cleanings don't happen as often as they should.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by Random_randall

What Muirsy said! For a 2min job with a bore snake and a wipe down of the bolt and a light coat of oil. Its kind of therapeutic after weekend or a day out.

]

A bore snake will never be used on any of my rifles. If I am going to clean the bore, I use a one piece rod, proper sized patches, and appropriate bore guide and solvents.

[crosman177]

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

]

A bore snake will never be used on any of my rifles. If I am going to clean the bore, I use a one piece rod, proper sized patches, and appropriate bore guide and solvents.

Please explain to me your reason for this? I was thinking about picking a boresnake up for quick use after plinking.

[260 Rem]

First, a question regarding the use of Wipeout which I believe targets copper fouling. Is it effective for lead fouling?
Second, for 10/22 and clones...a muzzle guide works fine.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[qwert]

Originally Posted by 260 Rem

First, a question regarding the use of Wipeout which I believe targets copper fouling. Is it effective for lead fouling?
snip

Neither 'Wipe-Out' or 'Patch-Out' is intended for lead removal.

I have used 'Chore-Boy on a bore brush', with both Ed's Red and Shooter' Choice Lead Remover, all require a lot of mechanical brushing to remove even relatively light grey leading.

I now use a product from Wipe-Out called 'No-Lead' which is designed for lead removal, and works VERY well.
It has been packaged is a couple of different formats as both a single part liquid and a set with Part A&B which are mixed before use. The Part A plastic bottle is large enough to mix the Part B in, but I prefer to mix in smaller quantities as it does become saturated with dissolved lead.

I keep it in a tall glass jar so I can insert an semi-auto pistol pistol barrel, tighten the cap, and lay the jar down at an angle to let the barrel soak. I then hold the barrel inside the jar to catch the fluid as I brush the bore.

I clean rifle bores at a very slight slope in a similar manner as 'Patch-Out', and 'Carb-Out' or other carbon remover. Normally fouling seems to form in layers and several alternating processes and chemicals are required to clean neglected bores, some need to soak longer than others.

Good Luck, YMMV.

[bat119]

Interesting about wipeout
The claim
The removal of these four types of fouling: 1. Powder fouling (smokeless or blackpowder) 2. Metal fouling (copper or lead alloy) 3. Carbon , 4. Molybdenum (usually introduced by the use of Molybdenum coated bullets), which will restore accuracy in a barrel whose usable life is still viable.
Then down in the fine print
They do claim it aids in removing lead by dissolving the copper jacketing material not the lead
SPECIAL NOTE FOR ALL SHOOTERS SHOOTING LEAD BULLETS.

We specifically state that Wipe-out does not dissolve lead. Most chemicals that dissolve lead produce a galvanic reaction. This reaction in effect acts like a battery. In most cases it will etch steel ( both stainless and carbon steel). It is for this reason that we don’t use chemicals that specifically work on lead.

We use chemicals that will dissolve the other metals ( tin , antimony, zinc, etc.) that are incorporated in most bullet alloys. So we work to destroy the integrity of the bullet alloy, and it begins to come apart in small black flakes. This process takes about 24 to 36 hours.

So while Wipe-Out™ does not dissolve lead , it will degrade the alloy so that it can be pushed out with a tight patch

So after reading this wipeout is not the product for rimfires they also say it safe for all gun finish's it will take Truoil off.

http://www.sharpshootr.com/wipe-out/