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01-24-2019, 11:14 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Leslieville
Posts: 2,500
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Show me your sheep rig
Remington model 7 KS in 7-08. It’s not pretty but is short, light, and handles well. It’s finicky; the only factory ammo I’ve found that it will shoot reasonably well is Federal Premium 140 grain Partitions. The scope is a VX2 2-7 by 36.
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__________________
We talk so much about leaving a better planet to our kids, that we forget to leave better kids to our planet.
Gerry Burnie
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01-25-2019, 12:55 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Alberta
Posts: 4,279
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I was on a lightweight kick for a few years. I put together a bunch - sold them all but one as I wasn’t using them.
Here are a few:
Weatherby ultralight 280
One I put together for an old friend
708
600 mohawk in 260
260
708
6.5rem mag
Last edited by double gun; 01-25-2019 at 01:16 PM.
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01-25-2019, 11:10 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YoteStopper
You sure that is not the 3-15 Razor? The 2-10 model does not have side focus. I have the 3-15 with G4 reticle (now discontinued) and although I haven't hunted with it it is a very nice scope. The other reticle option was way too busy for my liking so glad I picked up the G4 when WSS went under.
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You’re correct 3-15 42mm...my bad! It’s the G4.
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01-26-2019, 10:43 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 217
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I have a tikka superlite t3x in 7RM that needs to take a sheep, a kimber classic select in 270 win that needs to take a sheep and a kimber montana in 338 win mag that has taken a stone sheep and a rocky bighorn. I need to learn how to posts pic soon. I miss sheep season.
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01-26-2019, 01:13 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Cowtown, agian
Posts: 2,815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCC
Remington model 7 KS in 7-08. It’s not pretty but is short, light, and handles well. It’s finicky; the only factory ammo I’ve found that it will shoot reasonably well is Federal Premium 140 grain Partitions. The scope is a VX2 2-7 by 36.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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You ever need to move that rig along......
__________________
The inherent vice of capitalism is the unequal sharing of blessings; the inherent virtue of socialism is the equal sharing of miseries.
- Sir Winston Churchill
A body of men holding themselves accountable to nobody ought not to be trusted by anybody.
-Thomas Paine
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01-26-2019, 05:35 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oz
Posts: 2,122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outdoorsman12b
That's a good setup Josh. Have you been out in the real wet stuff yet with blued though? I baby my rifles and still get rust forming when raining every day. A buddy had stainless and did not even look at his rifle and the thing was fine. It made a believer out of me in stainless.
Just to clarify not implying you should change your setup at all.
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I’ve mentioned this many times before but never had anyone admit to listening. Get a tuf cloth, wipe your gear with it, forget about rust... use the gear, continue to forget about rust. It’s so hard, to remember that your gear isn’t going to rust. Forget oil and whatever else you use now to prevent rust. Buy one of these for about $10
Wipe it on whatever you DONT WANT TO RUST and go about your life. Since I started using it I’ve never seen a spot of rust on anything. I did however decide to put a patina on a m4 steel knife blade that I had wiped down.
Here’s a m4 blade someone else used that developed a patina (like they all do)
Usually they develop said patina from sweat or cutting anything acidic. The steel is also very prone to rust.
I bought one and wiped it with my cloth when I got it. Used it for a year and the blade still looked new. Decided to put a patina on it. Took the blade out of the knife and sprayed it with brakleen thinking I could remove the tuf cloth residue. Put it in vinegar for three days. It should of developed a patina overnight. Three days later this is what I had.
I then jammed it in an orange for a couple days, came out clean as a whistle. Put it in mustard for a couple days, nada. Washed it off, wiped it down again and decided not only was it not going to develop any patina but also wasn’t going to rust.
There are plenty of tests of this product on YouTube. Check them out. Here’s one specifically on a blued rifle barrel.
https://youtu.be/i8cLTwaIXys
They’re cheap, last a long time and a couple hundred ml of the liquid is available and cheap too. It’s better then rust isn’t it?
Or just avoid wet weather, use oil on your gear and try and buy stainless whenever possible. Up to you.
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01-26-2019, 05:52 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 15,831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiloil37
I’ve mentioned this many times before but never had anyone admit to listening. Get a tuf cloth, wipe your gear with it, forget about rust... use the gear, continue to forget about rust. It’s so hard, to remember that your gear isn’t going to rust. Forget oil and whatever else you use now to prevent rust. Buy one of these for about $10
Wipe it on whatever you DONT WANT TO RUST and go about your life. Since I started using it I’ve never seen a spot of rust on anything. I did however decide to put a patina on a m4 steel knife blade that I had wiped down.
Here’s a m4 blade someone else used that developed a patina (like they all do)
Usually they develop said patina from sweat or cutting anything acidic. The steel is also very prone to rust.
I bought one and wiped it with my cloth when I got it. Used it for a year and the blade still looked new. Decided to put a patina on it. Took the blade out of the knife and sprayed it with brakleen thinking I could remove the tuf cloth residue. Put it in vinegar for three days. It should of developed a patina overnight. Three days later this is what I had.
I then jammed it in an orange for a couple days, came out clean as a whistle. Put it in mustard for a couple days, nada. Washed it off, wiped it down again and decided not only was it not going to develop any patina but also wasn’t going to rust.
There are plenty of tests of this product on YouTube. Check them out. Here’s one specifically on a blued rifle barrel.
https://youtu.be/i8cLTwaIXys
They’re cheap, last a long time and a couple hundred ml of the liquid is available and cheap too. It’s better then rust isn’t it?
Or just avoid wet weather, use oil on your gear and try and buy stainless whenever possible. Up to you.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Very interesting. Thanks for taking the time to write that up. Would you recommend removing other oil first or just wipe away with the tuff cloth? Thanks.
__________________
“I love it when clients bring Berger bullets. It means I get to kill the bear.”
-Billy Molls
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01-26-2019, 06:04 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: My House
Posts: 13,459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdub
I believe you, I've never shot a Vanguard before but stock design and fit sure made a difference for me from the standard Rem 700 plastic stock.
I had an Ruger Stainless Stalker once in 7RM that was awful to shoot as well. Was glad to get rid of that cannoe paddle with a barrel.
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I had one too back when I was young and stupid. Would take it to the range and shoot three boxes in a tshirt. My shoulder told the story I tell ya.
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01-26-2019, 07:00 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oz
Posts: 2,122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
Very interesting. Thanks for taking the time to write that up. Would you recommend removing other oil first or just wipe away with the tuff cloth? Thanks.
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I don’t have a researched answer for that but I’ll shoot from the hip. I buy a lot of stuff used and have never degreased it properly before wiping it down. I’m sure some of it has had oil residue on it that I didn’t notice. I don’t apply it over visible oil or grease but I’ve also never used brakleen on anything before wiping it with the cloth. It would make sense to clean it first as it’ll give the active ingredient in the cloth access to bond to the steel.
I started using the same cloth as I use now back in about 2012 and nothing has ever had any rust since. I did buy the marine version because it had the little jar instead of the pouch for storage. A year or two later I bought a couple hundred ml pump container of the liquid to refresh the cloth. It needs a little spray of active ingredient about twice a year. At this rate the liquid will probably last me 15+ years. I got the liquid off amazon and it was cheap, I think <$30
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01-26-2019, 09:53 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 59
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I have a couple rigs that have some potential, I have a bit of a problem....
the first is a christensen Ridgeline in a 7mm Rem Mag. Topped with a Leupold Vx3 3.5-18 x 44. Love this rig has a turret to shoot long range and is very accurate. Only regret I paid to have a magazine kit added instead of Christensen's floor plate. I won't do that again on a sheep gun added considerable weight. I tinkered to much.
Ridgeline.jpg
ridgeline 2.jpg
The second is a Kimber Mountain Ascent in a .280 Ackley Improved that is topped with a Swarovski Z5 3.5-18 x 44 with a plex reticle. This gun is rediculously light so I am excited about it. Haven't had an opportunity to shoot this yet though.
kimber.jpg
Lastly my newest project that I am very excited about is my Tikka Superlite in a 7mm Rem Mag. I have already done some work to this rig. Changing the bolt handle, shroud, trigger spring, adding a muzzle break, fluting the bolt and the barrel is already fluted. Currently it is having a Wildcat composite stock built for it in the Kuiu pattern. That I also plan to mount a swarovski Z5 on as well. Don't have any pics for this one as it is in process but by the math I have done it should come in just under 7lbs. scoped. I can't wait!!
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01-26-2019, 09:58 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 15,831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiloil37
I don’t have a researched answer for that but I’ll shoot from the hip. I buy a lot of stuff used and have never degreased it properly before wiping it down. I’m sure some of it has had oil residue on it that I didn’t notice. I don’t apply it over visible oil or grease but I’ve also never used brakleen on anything before wiping it with the cloth. It would make sense to clean it first as it’ll give the active ingredient in the cloth access to bond to the steel.
I started using the same cloth as I use now back in about 2012 and nothing has ever had any rust since. I did buy the marine version because it had the little jar instead of the pouch for storage. A year or two later I bought a couple hundred ml pump container of the liquid to refresh the cloth. It needs a little spray of active ingredient about twice a year. At this rate the liquid will probably last me 15+ years. I got the liquid off amazon and it was cheap, I think <$30
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Thanks.
__________________
“I love it when clients bring Berger bullets. It means I get to kill the bear.”
-Billy Molls
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01-26-2019, 10:38 PM
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Banned
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 248
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I’ve always used my rem 700 25-06 for sheep or my vanguard in 30-06.but from now on I’ll be taking my new sako finnlight in 300 wsm 168 Berger vlds on all my hunts it’s so light lol
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01-28-2019, 11:42 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 139
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Coiloil great tip and thanks for sharing.
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01-28-2019, 11:45 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbshunt
I have a couple rigs that have some potential, I have a bit of a problem....
the first is a christensen Ridgeline in a 7mm Rem Mag. Topped with a Leupold Vx3 3.5-18 x 44. Love this rig has a turret to shoot long range and is very accurate. Only regret I paid to have a magazine kit added instead of Christensen's floor plate. I won't do that again on a sheep gun added considerable weight. I tinkered to much.
Attachment 152399
Attachment 152400
The second is a Kimber Mountain Ascent in a .280 Ackley Improved that is topped with a Swarovski Z5 3.5-18 x 44 with a plex reticle. This gun is rediculously light so I am excited about it. Haven't had an opportunity to shoot this yet though.
Attachment 152401
Lastly my newest project that I am very excited about is my Tikka Superlite in a 7mm Rem Mag. I have already done some work to this rig. Changing the bolt handle, shroud, trigger spring, adding a muzzle break, fluting the bolt and the barrel is already fluted. Currently it is having a Wildcat composite stock built for it in the Kuiu pattern. That I also plan to mount a swarovski Z5 on as well. Don't have any pics for this one as it is in process but by the math I have done it should come in just under 7lbs. scoped. I can't wait!!
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Some fine rifles thanks for sharing. A shame that you don't want to pack the Ridgeline they are so nice. Look forward to seeing the finished tikka. Are you going to have a break installed?
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01-28-2019, 11:45 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 139
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With your handle I thought for sure you would be toting a Kimber
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01-28-2019, 12:45 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: St Albert
Posts: 848
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280AI, Cooper Model 92, Leupold VX6HD 3-18/44, Talley light weight rings, Cerakote Flat dark earth on all metal including scope and rings, Shooting tiny bug holes with 162gr ELD-M @ 2896fps. A tad under 7lbs scoped. This is my every situation rifle, It's great in the mountains, bush to fields.
__________________
"It's better to have it and not need it, then need it and not have it."
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01-28-2019, 01:02 PM
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Banned
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 248
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[QUOTE=outdoorsman12b;3920937]With your handle I thought for sure you would be toting a Kimber
You are correct had one and hated the safety, and action
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01-28-2019, 01:21 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Parkland County, AB
Posts: 4,253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiloil37
I don’t have a researched answer for that but I’ll shoot from the hip. I buy a lot of stuff used and have never degreased it properly before wiping it down. I’m sure some of it has had oil residue on it that I didn’t notice. I don’t apply it over visible oil or grease but I’ve also never used brakleen on anything before wiping it with the cloth. It would make sense to clean it first as it’ll give the active ingredient in the cloth access to bond to the steel.
I started using the same cloth as I use now back in about 2012 and nothing has ever had any rust since. I did buy the marine version because it had the little jar instead of the pouch for storage. A year or two later I bought a couple hundred ml pump container of the liquid to refresh the cloth. It needs a little spray of active ingredient about twice a year. At this rate the liquid will probably last me 15+ years. I got the liquid off amazon and it was cheap, I think <$30
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Good Stuff ! The Tuff Glide liquid definately prevents rust. I think that is what is on the original cloth. Glad to hear Amazon has It .
A good rub down with Isoproply Alcohol prior to application helps a bunch.
__________________
When applied by competent people with the right intent, common sense goes a long way.
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01-29-2019, 11:05 PM
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Peace Country
Posts: 528
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Great thread, I've only ever shot one sheep. Bighorn with a Sako Finnlite in 300 wsm, Leupold 4.5-14x40 with a Kenton Industries ballistic turret.
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01-29-2019, 11:32 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,906
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Seems that lots of rifles in this thread haven’t taken rams.
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01-30-2019, 02:15 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oz
Posts: 2,122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salavee
Good Stuff ! The Tuff Glide liquid definately prevents rust. I think that is what is on the original cloth. Glad to hear Amazon has It .
A good rub down with Isoproply Alcohol prior to application helps a bunch.
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Yes that’s what’s on the cloth. You can see in the picture the bottom of the blade took a patina because I never wiped it there. It’s as black as the ace of spades. The whole blade should of looked like that after the vinegar.
I looked it up on amazon again, the 4oz pump is only $15 and the cloth is $10
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01-31-2019, 08:47 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: East Kootenays, BC
Posts: 1,168
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Sportsman' Warehouse shows the lefties in 308, 7 Rem mag, 300 Win mag and of course 6.5 CM. All supposed to be in stock on Feb 5 for $799 USD.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
It is still a 30-06. But might be destined for a 270barrel. Who knows. Rumour has it that the T3 ultralight came or is coming in LH? Have you heard anything about that?
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