Anyone painted a plastic stock?

[Chukar Hunter]

Any advise would be appreciated as far as type of paint and do's and don'ts.

[tex92]

Dont waste your time. I'm pretty sure we have all tired it and all come to the conclusion it's a waste of time and money. It never last, doesn't matter if you prepare the stock before paint or even just paint it. It will chip and peel off.

[Chukar Hunter]

https://www.rokslide.com/forums/thre...c-stock.68255/

[jeprli]

I've used spray cans for plastic stocks, with spray can primer. It covered great but is not very durable, if stock comes in contact with anything harder than plastic its made of it peels right off.

Industrial Plastics in calgary has all kinds of epoxy finishes and pigments, not the cheapest but great selection and service.

[Savage Bacon]

What about hydro dipping it?

[obsessed1]

Most of my hunting rifles have both plastic stock and barrel/ action painted. Krylon multi cam colours and a light mat finish sealer. Depending how hard you are on your guns it lasts 2-10 years. Nice thing is touch ups are easy. Varmint al has a good tutorial on his page.

[BackPackHunter]

Coralines (DawsonBC)
Painted the stock on my custom .
It’s gotta be close to 10yrs old , very min wear .
I would guess its baked on . Wouldn’t hurt to ask them what they use

[brewster29]

I can't speak for all plastic, but I have painted 3 Tikka stocks. All turned out well and have been very durable. There is two hunting seasons on the first and no peeling or chips. They are basically fibre reinforced plastic.

I scuffed everything with red scotchbrite, wiped with brake cleaner to degrease, then primed with Rustoleum plastic primer. Painted with Rustoleum, clear coated with Rustoleum anti slip clear. That stuff gives a really nice sharkskin texture.

Park it somewhere warm for a week to harden before assembly.

There is lots of good info on the net.

[Kurt505]

I’ve done a bunch of them. Sand it down, prime, paint then clear coat. Don’t cheap out on the clear coat. Use the 2K two part clear coat with hardener and it will last a long long time. You can get the clear in a mat finish from an auto body supply store. You can get the paint there too, in any color imaginable, the same stuff they use on plastic bumpers.

[rugerfan]

I’ve done a couple, used that matte finish earth tone stuff. Think it was krylon. I don’t bother with clear coat or anything, just keep the can around and give it another coat when it gets dinged up.

[Dean2]

So what is the point of painting the stock. Is it purely decorative? I only have a few synthetic stocked rifles, one was painted by the Maker, NULA, in flatish black with good texture. Fifteen years of hard hunting, no real big marks or issues. Another one that gets a fair amount of use is factory black plastic, no paint. Same deal, can't really see much for use marks on it either.

[saddleup]

We hydro dipped three t-3's 6 yrs ago. Not scratch..... Yet.

[ghostguy6]

Originally Posted by Chukar Hunter

Any advise would be appreciated as far as type of paint and do's and don'ts.

First you will need to remove all of the mold release from the stock. Often this means you will have to sand the finish down quite a bit as it can be absorbed into the base plastic. You absolutely must remove all traces of any oils, mold release or wax of any kind to get proper adhesion. I use was and grease remover followed by 99% isopropyl alcohol for this You will then need to apply a light coat of plastic primer and allow it to fully cure before gently sanding it to get adhesion of your base coat. For base coats I always recommend adding a flex additive when used on plastic. This unfortunately for most will eliminate spray cans and require a true base coat / clear coat system. When you apply your base coat spray as little as possible to get coverage. Depending on the paint it may require several coats as too many mil's of coverage can affect drying. Check the paint specs for this as it varies greatly from manufacturers. Many paints have a re-coat window you must be aware of to promote proper chemical adhesion. If you are over the window you will need to lightly scuff the paint to promote mechanical adhesion. The thinner the base coat is the more flexible it will be so less likely to chip. Lastly apply a good quality clear once again with the flex additive, glossy or flat it is your choice. Biggest thing to note is many paints do not fully cure for at least 30 days. Personally I have seen some take up to 75 days if applied to thick. Wait at least 30 days before you assemble your firearm. many times I have seen people think the parts are fully cured but leave finger prints in the finish when they apply any force such as tightening screws.

[pavilion]

Just sanded down and painted... probably wont last as long as some of the other methods but two seconds with a spray can fixes that

Sent from my SM-A205W using Tapatalk

[huntinstuff]

Every year my rifle gets a new look via paintjob

Its become a tradition

90% of the time the boys use Krylon paint from CT

I scratch it up, never repair it because next summer they will strip it down to black again and give it a new look.

[bat119]

I used an airbrush with Duracoat on a model 7 stock been 6 years still looks like new

[hunterngather]

I used bedliner on my plastic fenders on my rig and it has held up great. Sanded, primed and clear coated after but wonder if that could work?

[Bushleague]

Originally Posted by Dean2

So what is the point of painting the stock. Is it purely decorative? I only have a few synthetic stocked rifles, one was painted by the Maker, NULA, in flatish black with good texture. Fifteen years of hard hunting, no real big marks or issues. Another one that gets a fair amount of use is factory black plastic, no paint. Same deal, can't really see much for use marks on it either.

So there's this Vanguard carbine in my local gun shop, its been there for a decade because its hideous... some tasteless skull camo type thing. Now someday the owner of that store is going to get sick of looking at it and give me a hell of a deal on it (he doesnt know it just yet, still thinks the skulls are "cool", another decade aught to prove my point) and at that point I will need to paint a stock, or put a bag over my head while I carry it.

Just one example of when one might need to paint a stock.

[FishOutOfWater]

It's in my basement curing right now... Textured desert sand.

[Dean2]

Your daughter or wife will be very pleased, you matched the pink insulation perfectly. Nice job.

[bat119]

Originally Posted by bat119

I used an airbrush with Duracoat on a model 7 stock been 6 years still looks like new

One reason to paint a stock
I had to make alterations to the trigger guard I painted the whole stock to match

[Tactical Lever]

A couple times now. Here's one. Partly because I find the plain black boring, and also because I modified this one and to cover where I cut, carved and sanded.

Rust-Oleum Camo paint used. Pretty tough, holding up pretty well on a 4x4, and with some minor wear after a couple years on a gun.

[Tactical Lever]

Another one. Used a Beauty-Tone paint this time, as I was running low on the "Camo". Not sure if this one dries as hard. Guess I'll see how it holds up.

[Tactical Lever]

Trying again on the other side.

[Tactical Lever]

Before pictures. One's a stock photo.

[^v^Tinda wolf^v^]

I’ve painted a couple of my guns over the years with good results. Definitely strip it down and paint it properly. If it is complex to strip down just YouTube it. I stripped a Kel Tec KSG down last time, trigger mechanism and all.

[Tactical Lever]

Originally Posted by ^v^Tinda wolf^v^

I’ve painted a couple of my guns over the years with good results. Definitely strip it down and paint it properly. If it is complex to strip down just YouTube it. I stripped a Kel Tec KSG down last time, trigger mechanism and all.

I just used an evaporating "film free" degreaser. For the pistol it may have been brake-clean or quick-start.

[Chukar Hunter]

Canadian Tire nor Rona carries them any longer. Has anyone seen them any where else? Thanks.

[Salavee]

Originally Posted by Kurt505

I’ve done a bunch of them. Sand it down, prime, paint then clear coat. Don’t cheap out on the clear coat. Use the 2K two part clear coat with hardener and it will last a long long time. You can get the clear in a mat finish from an auto body supply store. You can get the paint there too, in any color imaginable, the same stuff they use on plastic bumpers.

Try Endura paint, any color you want or a clearcoat . They will also provide you with a custom 2-part spray can.
149 str Edmonton

[brewster29]

Originally Posted by Chukar Hunter

Canadian Tire nor Rona carries them any longer. Has anyone seen them any where else? Thanks.

For rattle can paint jobs I found the Rustoleum line to be every bit as good as long as I used their plastic primer first. It's readily available everywhere, plus they have a really great "non-slip grip" clear matte for a top coat.

One set of your preferred colour, primer and clear coat cans will likely do about 6 stocks.