Quote:
Originally Posted by brendan's dad
That looks like a lot of work. I run serving nocks above and below; 6 wraps below and 4 above with about 1-1.5 wrap space for pinch. Tie the d-loop around that and good to go.
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It's really not much work and I've got good reason to do it the way I do.
I was slow changing to D loops, I shot with just a single brass nock point from the early 90's until 2006 or 2007 but I was running fairly long ata bows. When I did switch over I didn't like how much maintenance they required but I didn't really think to much about it, I just replaced them as they wore. Then one day I had one come untied while drawing the bow. I was shooting through the house, into and across the garage so I could get a 25 yard shot but because I draw while pointed at the target I still managed to hit the target instead of punching it through the garage wall. The release and my right hand however smacked me in the mouth. I got lucky and didn't break any teeth but suffered a busted lip. I realize a tied loop shouldn't fail but gave up on them right then and there. I don't plan on ever going to the dentist to fix my mouth because I was to stupid to learn from the first failure and I don't subscribe to "if it was tied right it wouldn't fail". It's true, they shouldn't come untied but they do, or break and I don't care if it's infrequent because that release aid in the teeth can do some serious damage and I value fail proof equipment.
So I scoured the net for a endless loop and found these. I've been shooting them for about ten years and only have to install them when I put the string on. They don't wear out very quickly, this is the second one I've installed since I started using them. I just take them from bow to bow or one set of strings to the next when I need new strings. The first one I installed is still on my backup sting set and this pair of loops has been on a couple dozen bows and many sets of strings in the last decade. When I need to replace my serving I just move the rock-it loop up, remove the old serving, reserve and slide it back down. For about $8 I think they're a good value.
The brass nocking point is extra weight on my string but it gives me piece of mind knowing that nothing's moved and I've got plenty of speed with a 30" draw and 80lb speed bow. I'm moving a 530 grain arrow at 295 fps so it's enough.
Everyone gets to choose what they want to run and how failsafe their rig is. I've found what works for me and until I find something better I won't change it. If you've never thought about a nock set failing it's probably time to think about it. If you only tie it on with witness marks you've got to pay attention to the marks whereas when a elk comes rushing in on me I only have to shoot because I know my nock point can't move.
If you've had a nocking point fail and you still use them your probably a slow learner or haven't thought about your options.