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  #31  
Old 07-24-2017, 01:37 PM
270person 270person is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Skull Man View Post
CLR is basically watered down Muriatic Acid (HCL). I've used Muriatic Acid before (heavy caution here) to clean rust out of my Volvo Penta exhaust manifold...worked great! You can find 20% Muriatic acid at your local Canadian Tire but be aware that this is not something you want to get on anything as it is in a much higher concentration.

Link: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/ro...-0491064p.html

Remember to add acid to water and not water to acid (high exothermic reaction).

CLR isn't muriatic acid. Never was. Used to be a Phosphoric + Citric. Now it's Lactic acid and that's why it doesn't work worth a rats patoot anymore.

Last edited by 270person; 07-24-2017 at 01:46 PM.
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  #32  
Old 07-24-2017, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Dean2 View Post
Never tried this one. Where do you get it?
Can. Tire sells it in spray can. Not cheap but effective. Its made from lanolin. I learned of it long time ago from a Newfie guy who said he used it to keep rust away from his car. And my old shop mechanic used it instead of WD 40. It sticks to metal like glue. I sprayed up along the inside bottom of my truck doors as a example and in the morning i will find it creeping up the outside. You can go to the car wash lots of times and its still there. I used it on my bike chains for years. It does collect dust which wipes off but not the product.

Anyway dont want to hijack Kens thread to much. The stuff he uses is great to for what he uses it for. Absolutely.
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  #33  
Old 07-24-2017, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Ken07AOVette View Post
I have tried several ways to remove rust in the past, but just found the magic potion. For only $24.99 I will tell you how to rid...

nah, just kidding.

I took some Home Hardware brand CLR and put it in a tennis balls sleeve, soaked everything I could find with rust and it is gone. I have never found a product that actually does what it claims to this percentage.
I had a couple sets of 'professional' wrenches in SAE and Metric that I was sure were going to be thrown out, but overnight in the sleeve and wiped with a rag they are nothing short of new.
Totally seized needle nose pliars now fall open and closed by tipping them over. I had to use 'snipes' to break them loose before the soak. I tried a varsol soak before CLR, did nothing at all. Splash and soak and rinse with WD40, still very hard to move, but in CLR they are factory fresh.

I just started another 'bath', this one a margarine container. I filled it with old sockets, screwdriver bits, a couple very rusty carabiners, and they all came out like new. Amazing stuff.

Now, I have to find a way to prevent rust. Fill the boxes with oil? I bought some great boxes from Can Tire that were on sale, maybe a rag soaked in wd40 on the bottom that they lay on?

You succeeded in removing the rust largely but you have to be careful of products on the acidic end of the pH scale. You should get some lubricant on those tools asap or you may have opened yourself to even more flash rusting.

Also these acidic products, whether organic salts like this one or the old traditional acids can burn softer metals. i.e. stainless steel, aluminum, etc.
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  #34  
Old 07-24-2017, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 270person View Post
You succeeded in removing the rust largely but you have to be careful of products on the acidic end of the pH scale. You should get some lubricant on those tools asap or you may have opened yourself to even more flash rusting.

Also these acidic products, whether organic salts like this one or the old traditional acids can burn softer metals. i.e. stainless steel, aluminum, etc.
I did soak them in a light machine oil after wipe down, I wouldn't put anything aluminum or galvanized in it. Pliars, crescents, wrenches, sockets, screwdriver bits, hitch pin, that sort of thing.
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Originally Posted by Twisted Canuck
I wasn't thinking far enough ahead for an outcome, I was ranting. By definition, a rant doesn't imply much forethought.....
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  #35  
Old 07-24-2017, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Ken07AOVette View Post
I did soak them in a light machine oil after wipe down, I wouldn't put anything aluminum or galvanized in it. Pliars, crescents, wrenches, sockets, screwdriver bits, hitch pin, that sort of thing.

There you go. Good man. Mind me asking what you paid for product? I think you said you bought a one litre.
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  #36  
Old 07-24-2017, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Kurt505 View Post
I wonder how it would work on vehicles?

It'll remove surface rust but once it's had enough time to penetrate it won't do much.
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  #37  
Old 07-24-2017, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 270person View Post
There you go. Good man. Mind me asking what you paid for product? I think you said you bought a one litre.
$18.99 for a gallon at home hardware. Price shows 36.99 online, weird

http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/in...520970?Ntt=clr
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Originally Posted by Twisted Canuck
I wasn't thinking far enough ahead for an outcome, I was ranting. By definition, a rant doesn't imply much forethought.....
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  #38  
Old 07-24-2017, 07:20 PM
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CLR on gun rust? Anyone try it?
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  #39  
Old 07-24-2017, 07:37 PM
buck12 buck12 is offline
 
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Default CLR for cleaning tools

Awesome tip. Thks Yes Fluid Film works great too for cleaning and lubricating
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  #40  
Old 07-24-2017, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Redfrog View Post
CLR on gun rust? Anyone try it?

The name brand CLR doesn't work worth a darn anymore Red. They changed the formula a while back, 2-3 years ballpark, to get greener. Sacrificed a basic but decent chloride cleaner for blah.

Issue with any of the calcium, rust, and lime removers is they're low pH, water based. If you get them on and then neutralize them quick you'd be ok for removing surface rust. As I mentioned earlier you'd want to get some oil on the surface pretty quick.

They're all designed for porcelain and plastic tubs/showers and shower doors, toilets, sinks, stone/tile floors and grout. Soap scum, hard water deposits, and scaling.
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  #41  
Old 07-24-2017, 09:19 PM
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I can only hope that'd I'd spend so much time in my boat that my tools would rust. That would be great and be a measure to as much time I spend on the water. Truly, for this land locked cowboy, it would be the least of my concerns.
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  #42  
Old 07-24-2017, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 270person View Post
The name brand CLR doesn't work worth a darn anymore Red. They changed the formula a while back, 2-3 years ballpark, to get greener. Sacrificed a basic but decent chloride cleaner for blah.

Issue with any of the calcium, rust, and lime removers is they're low pH, water based. If you get them on and then neutralize them quick you'd be ok for removing surface rust. As I mentioned earlier you'd want to get some oil on the surface pretty quick.

They're all designed for porcelain and plastic tubs/showers and shower doors, toilets, sinks, stone/tile floors and grout. Soap scum, hard water deposits, and scaling.
Thanks. I have used it for advertised purposes occasionally over the years but have found as you said it ain't what it used to be. It performed so poorly the last time I used it, I said it would be the last time I used it.
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  #43  
Old 07-24-2017, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Redfrog View Post
Thanks. I have used it for advertised purposes occasionally over the years but have found as you said it ain't what it used to be. It performed so poorly the last time I used it, I said it would be the last time I used it.

I can fart more rust and lime deposits off a surface than the new CLR will remove. Mind you...
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  #44  
Old 07-25-2017, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 270person View Post
I can fart more rust and lime deposits off a surface than the new CLR will remove. Mind you...
Ok, a little test...

I have 2 identical hitch pins, 9/16ths x 6"....

I will insert them in the tennis ball sleeve full of CLR,

you insert them in.......


See which one comes out cleaner!
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Originally Posted by Twisted Canuck
I wasn't thinking far enough ahead for an outcome, I was ranting. By definition, a rant doesn't imply much forethought.....
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  #45  
Old 07-25-2017, 02:46 PM
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I want pictures.
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  #46  
Old 07-25-2017, 02:47 PM
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I want pictures.
I don't.
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  #47  
Old 07-25-2017, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean2 View Post
I want pictures.
Why Dean, I never thought you were that......

ummm I mean.....


errr......



not judging at all, I have no problem with which way someone swings a bat, but


ewwwwwwwww


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Originally Posted by Twisted Canuck
I wasn't thinking far enough ahead for an outcome, I was ranting. By definition, a rant doesn't imply much forethought.....
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  #48  
Old 07-25-2017, 02:55 PM
270person 270person is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean2 View Post
I want pictures.


You're a sick man. Seek help immediately.
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  #49  
Old 07-25-2017, 05:07 PM
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Trying out some CLR and Envirorust on some rusty sockets.
We'll see how they both work.
BTW, if anyone needs any SAE 1/2" drive sockets, let me know.
I also have a bunch of SAE combo wrenches.
Tons of Metric 1/4" drive sockets also.
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  #50  
Old 07-25-2017, 06:07 PM
Dona Dona is offline
 
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I have numerous pairs of side cutters that I seem to leave outside. I left them in CLR for 24 hours and yes they are like brand new!
Thanks for the tip!!!
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  #51  
Old 07-25-2017, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dona View Post
I have numerous pairs of side cutters that I seem to leave outside. I left them in CLR for 24 hours and yes they are like brand new!
Thanks for the tip!!!
just make sure they get a good wipe of some sort of light oil after you dry them
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Originally Posted by Twisted Canuck
I wasn't thinking far enough ahead for an outcome, I was ranting. By definition, a rant doesn't imply much forethought.....
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  #52  
Old 07-25-2017, 11:43 PM
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Well, the Envirorust worked great. The CLR hasn't done much at all. I'll check it again tomorrow but I'm doubtful.
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  #53  
Old 07-26-2017, 06:17 AM
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I've tried a number of rust melt products & all seem to work not too bad on light rust ..... to some degree.

On bigger parts I'm cleaning I just sand blast, or if it's thin metal like the dash out of one car, I take it to the local rad shop.

Cost is low for 100 % clean , in their acid dip & clean tanks.

Then coat with POR 15 !
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