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Old 11-02-2016, 03:40 PM
HunterDave HunterDave is offline
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Default Using Liqua Soft After Tanning

Does anyone or has anyone ever used Liqua Soft to soften tanned pelts? I use the pre-mixed tanning formula in the orange bottle to tan my pelts. It works well however the hide is a little stiff as opposed to nice and supple like a professional tanning job. I'm hoping that this stuff works but I'm just wondering if there is anything that I should know about using it that I won't find online. Any advice would be appreciated.

This is the stuff:

https://www.halfordsmailorder.com/fa...t-acknoliqsoft
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Old 11-02-2016, 04:01 PM
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jmparker jmparker is offline
 
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ive used liqua soft on some critters. it will help soften a little bit but you have to apply it at the right time as the pelt dries out from tanning. One of the biggest factors in getting a soft pelt is to shave the skin down, foxes, coyotes and small critters dont need shaving but beavers, badgers, and larger skins like deer, elk...etc definitely do need to be thinned down as much as possible. you can do everything right in your tanning procedure but if the skin is too thick it will dry hard and tough no matter what.

what type of skin are you working on?
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Old 11-02-2016, 04:17 PM
HunterDave HunterDave is offline
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I have about a dozen beaver that I tanned last Fall that I was hoping to soften. They make for great wall hangers but stiff for mitts. From what I've read and what you're saying I might be better off just leaving them as is and using it on future beaver that I tan. Re-hydrating sounds like a PITA. I suppose that I'd have to re-board them to dry as well.
So you recommend using it on pelts right after tanning when I'm nailing it to the board?
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Old 11-02-2016, 04:52 PM
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jmparker jmparker is offline
 
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typically i apply the softening oil when the skin is about 15-20% dry. if you pull on the skin and it turns lighter or white then you know the skin is ready to take in the oil. paint it on with a brush and fold the skin up skin side to skin side. leave it sit for half a day and unfold and let it dry out completely. this usually takes a day or two depending on temp, air flow, and dampness of the fur. you dont have to worry about boarding the beaver as it dries. you could do that for a wall hanger and it would probably dry flat but it would be stiff. after the oiled pelt is 90% dry you have to start working and stretching it. dont let it dry completely before you work the leather.

beaver are tricky to tan soft without shaving the skin down, especially the large pelts. it takes a lot of elbow grease to break the leather but its rewarding work!

im not familiar with the orange bottle tan. do you pickle and degrease the beavers?
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Old 11-02-2016, 08:20 PM
HunterDave HunterDave is offline
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Thanks for taking the time to offer me advice, I appreciate that.

This is the all in one formula:
https://www.halfordsmailorder.com/ki...hidetanformula

The process using the formula is:
- Salt the pelt and fold skin on skin for 24 hours, scrap the salt off and repeat a second time.
- Put the pelt in a salt bath for 6 - 8 hours, thin skin and degrease in dish soap water then rinse.
- Apply tanning formula, fold skin on skin for 12 - 16 hours.
- At that point I just board the pelt (Probably should pull and stretch the pelt at that point as they recommend)

I'm still experimenting with trying different things (ie wire wheel to thin skin) and I figure that sooner or later I'll find what works best. I'll try what you recommend. Thanks again!
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Old 11-02-2016, 08:50 PM
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jmparker jmparker is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HunterDave View Post
Thanks for taking the time to offer me advice, I appreciate that.

This is the all in one formula:
https://www.halfordsmailorder.com/ki...hidetanformula

The process using the formula is:
- Salt the pelt and fold skin on skin for 24 hours, scrap the salt off and repeat a second time.
- Put the pelt in a salt bath for 6 - 8 hours, thin skin and degrease in dish soap water then rinse.
- Apply tanning formula, fold skin on skin for 12 - 16 hours.
- At that point I just board the pelt (Probably should pull and stretch the pelt at that point as they recommend)

I'm still experimenting with trying different things (ie wire wheel to thin skin) and I figure that sooner or later I'll find what works best. I'll try what you recommend. Thanks again!
no prob! i use a mini flesher to shave the skin. takes a little time and a good air compressor but it gets the job done. wire wheel works ok but not great. i use one after the skin is dry to smooth it out but i dont try to shave the skin with it. one other thing to consider is a proper degreaser. dish soap is ok for light degreasing but beavers ideally need something heavier. Knoblochs Super Solve Degreaser works well ive found. if a pelt doesnt have all the grease out the tan will be less effective which contributes to overall results.

im no expert but those are some of the things ive learned along the way. its a fun hobby and a satisfying way to deal with pelts that are worthless at the auction.
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Old 11-02-2016, 09:34 PM
HunterDave HunterDave is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmparker View Post
im no expert but those are some of the things ive learned along the way. its a fun hobby and a satisfying way to deal with pelts that are worthless at the auction.
That's the thing, I don't even bother sending in beaver smaller than a Large. They don't sell and if they do it's for next to nothing. Now that the cost to tan fox has gone up I wouldn't mind getting good at tanning them as well. Might as well get as much value as you can.
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