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Old 12-18-2015, 01:12 PM
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The Fisherman Guy The Fisherman Guy is offline
 
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Default Ice Auger Tips:

This thread is for tips to keep your ice auger in fighting shape - please add any tips below.

Check the pin/bolt on your auger flyte frequently. It can come loose while drilling, and when the auger punches through the ice - down goes your flyte to the bottom of the lake.

Replace the blade cover when not using the auger, especially if you lay it down on its side. The blades are very sharp, and will cut easily. Dogs, kids, boots, tents, etc. Cover them up, and keep them sharp. Especially when on the ice fishing.

The exhaust on gas augers gets very hot - it will melt your jacket, gloves, or skin. Be aware after drilling many holes, not to burn yourself, others or gear.

Refrain from spilling gasoline when filling. It will find it's way onto your lures, gear, line, hands, bait - and it turns off fish. Fill it at home in your warm garage, without wind or excited hands increasing the chance of spillage.

Store a gas auger on its side - tank side up for transport, and close the vent plug. Stop leaks, and gas from contaminating your gear in transport.
Bonus tip learned from another AO member - adapt a milk crate, or build a box to store your auger power head upright, without the flyte attached. Works great for off season storage too.

It seems to happen every year; a power auger is drilled halfway into the ice and left upright while fishing. If there are poor ice layers, or if the hole is drilled too close to liquid water - the hole fills with water and the auger flyte freezes into the ice. The flyte spindle isn't very thick, and it doesn't take much to bend, so retrieval is tricky. More often than not, they are abandoned to fall to the bottom of the lake in spring.
If drilling to stand your auger, be sure to finish drilling the hole all the way through at the end of the day so that it freezes. A hole not fully drilled through, will fill with windblown snow, and can be an ankle breaker.

Keep your blades very sharp! Doing so makes drilling holes much easier on the power head, drills holes faster, burns less fuel and effort. Dull blades put unnecessary strain on the power head, wearing it out prematurely.
Bonus tip - keep a spare set of blades and a multi-tool in your ice kit in case of on ice blade damage - like when your buddy asks to try your auger and drills into the rocks.
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Old 12-18-2015, 04:28 PM
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pinelakeperch pinelakeperch is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Fisherman Guy View Post
This thread is for tips to keep your ice auger in fighting shape - please add any tips below.

Check the pin/bolt on your auger flyte frequently. It can come loose while drilling, and when the auger punches through the ice - down goes your flyte to the bottom of the lake.

Replace the blade cover when not using the auger, especially if you lay it down on its side. The blades are very sharp, and will cut easily. Dogs, kids, boots, tents, etc. Cover them up, and keep them sharp. Especially when on the ice fishing.

The exhaust on gas augers gets very hot - it will melt your jacket, gloves, or skin. Be aware after drilling many holes, not to burn yourself, others or gear.

Refrain from spilling gasoline when filling. It will find it's way onto your lures, gear, line, hands, bait - and it turns off fish. Fill it at home in your warm garage, without wind or excited hands increasing the chance of spillage.

Store a gas auger on its side - tank side up for transport, and close the vent plug. Stop leaks, and gas from contaminating your gear in transport.
Bonus tip learned from another AO member - adapt a milk crate, or build a box to store your auger power head upright, without the flyte attached. Works great for off season storage too.

It seems to happen every year; a power auger is drilled halfway into the ice and left upright while fishing. If there are poor ice layers, or if the hole is drilled too close to liquid water - the hole fills with water and the auger flyte freezes into the ice. The flyte spindle isn't very thick, and it doesn't take much to bend, so retrieval is tricky. More often than not, they are abandoned to fall to the bottom of the lake in spring.
If drilling to stand your auger, be sure to finish drilling the hole all the way through at the end of the day so that it freezes. A hole not fully drilled through, will fill with windblown snow, and can be an ankle breaker.

Keep your blades very sharp! Doing so makes drilling holes much easier on the power head, drills holes faster, burns less fuel and effort. Dull blades put unnecessary strain on the power head, wearing it out prematurely.
Bonus tip - keep a spare set of blades and a multi-tool in your ice kit in case of on ice blade damage - like when your buddy asks to try your auger and drills into the rocks.
This is a big one. Makes start ups much easier.
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Old 12-18-2015, 06:35 PM
calgarygringo calgarygringo is offline
 
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Default Great post and to add:

On the hot exhaust mentioned watch your clothes. I have seen many a good parka or fishing coat ruined by hot exhaust melting an expensive coat or suit.

When the year is done don't leave old gas all summer or don't start out your first trip with last years gas. You may find it hard starting or won't start at all. Use fresh gas to start the season. Some oils such as Opti 2 that I use in mine have stabilizer built in so stands a chance but do it the right way.

Had someone in the shop today with this exact issue. Not 100% sure if it was just the gas but it was still full of last winter gas and would not start. Suggested starting there first before the repair shop. Probably cheaper than the repair bill to fix.
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Old 12-18-2015, 06:50 PM
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My tip is that if your auger isn't biting good you can run a jack knife blade down the top of the auger blades a couple times and it will help the blades bite better.
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Old 12-18-2015, 08:18 PM
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Always have an extra set of blades and a spark plug in your tackle box.

Store your auger with stabilized gas and run every few months.

Coat the pin or bolt that holds your flight to the power head with some grease or antiseize or it will rust solid.
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Old 12-18-2015, 09:06 PM
2alarmfishing 2alarmfishing is offline
 
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To prevent recoil breaks start your pull when you first feel tension. That slack will break the lovely plastic parts depending on the drill.
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Old 12-18-2015, 10:05 PM
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For my Jiffy Model 30 ... in the event I run into problems on the ice, my auger box has a 1 Lt container of spare fuel, funnel, small towel, small file, spark plug socket, spare spark plug, sand paper, small vice grips, flat screw driver, and spare clevis pins and clips.



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Old 12-18-2015, 11:21 PM
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The Fisherman Guy The Fisherman Guy is offline
 
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Great additions guys, thanks for your input!

It may seem like common sense to most, that's because it is. However things get forgotten, plans change, and change hands - it's smart to review good practices, and learn new tricks.

Looking at it this way - Setting aside time to hit the hardwater, time spent getting ready, time and money spent driving to location, hauling out gear, walking to the spot and getting ready to fish - is all fine - if your auger starts and is able to drill holes efficiently.

Many of the places I fish, there isn't another angler for miles, and I don't carry a backup auger. I rely on my tools to work properly, so I can spend more time fishing plain and simple. If my auger won't start, I won't be fishing.


Keep the tips coming guys, I appreciate your help.
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  #9  
Old 12-19-2015, 12:04 AM
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FisherPotch FisherPotch is offline
 
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Nice to have a spare gas cap encase the seal goes on the bleeder or the cap.

Jiffy oil comes pre stabilized.....encase some jiffy folks didn't already know. Never had an issue over seasons.

Bring your extension in mid winter

The custom box for the head is a nice touch, my dad has made very good use of his. Good place to keep the tools, extra plug, oil, blades, etc.

I know they don't make them like they used to, but I have managed to avoid plastic. Seen a lot of broken junk augers over the years.

I found a cover for my jiffy head a few years back. Keeps her looking like new.
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Old 12-06-2016, 12:11 AM
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The Fisherman Guy The Fisherman Guy is offline
 
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Thought I would revive this one for I am inbound on sharpening the blades on my auger.

Removable blades are great, flat chipper blades are very easy to sharpen using a flat stone. I touch them up at the beginning of the season with my Lansky stones and it cuts like a dream - easier on the power head too.
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  #11  
Old 12-06-2016, 12:21 AM
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Albertadiver Albertadiver is online now
 
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Nice to see you posting my friend!

I still have the old manual auger which is good when your chubby and need the exercise! Sharp blades are a must for sure.

My homemade shelter might last one more year but I think I'll buy a commercial unit next time.
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Old 12-06-2016, 09:33 AM
KWP KWP is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghostguy6 View Post
Always have an extra set of blades and a spark plug in your tackle box.

Store your auger with stabilized gas and run every few months.

Coat the pin or bolt that holds your flight to the power head with some grease or antiseize or it will rust solid.
Good point! My friend took my Strikemaster on ice last winter, returned it with one blade missing.
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Old 12-06-2016, 10:35 AM
Sooner Sooner is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Bullets View Post
My tip is that if your auger isn't biting good you can run a jack knife blade down the top of the auger blades a couple times and it will help the blades bite better.
Similar, I just keep a small file in the tackle box for a quick sharpen if needed.
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Old 12-06-2016, 11:03 AM
gtr gtr is offline
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Don't lend your auger to your buddy.
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Old 12-06-2016, 11:17 AM
honker_clonker honker_clonker is offline
 
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Bring a spare pull cord/rope and the proper screw driver to take the recoil apart. Had to jimmy a shoelace as a replacement which worked once but it could have been a disastrous outcome. Always have a spare rope now.
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Old 12-06-2016, 12:18 PM
AdAMxr AdAMxr is offline
 
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Or switch to electric and make sure your batteries are charged
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  #17  
Old 03-05-2018, 07:47 PM
fishcommander fishcommander is offline
 
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Default callethun

Has anyone ever ordered an ice auger blade cover off of https://rapala.ca/products/nordic-blade-cover? They are only $12.99.
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  #18  
Old 03-05-2018, 08:13 PM
ROA ROA is offline
 
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Ice auger is a piece of rotating equipment treat it as such. Gloves get caught or freeze to flighting or idiots put pins in flighting that stick out and catch on clothing. The auger is not going to stop or slow down once you get wrapped up in it.
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Old 03-05-2018, 08:39 PM
Crankbait Crankbait is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Fisherman Guy View Post
This thread is for tips to keep your ice auger in fighting shape - please add any tips below.

Check the pin/bolt on your auger flyte frequently. It can come loose while drilling, and when the auger punches through the ice - down goes your flyte to the bottom of the lake.

Replace the blade cover when not using the auger, especially if you lay it down on its side. The blades are very sharp, and will cut easily. Dogs, kids, boots, tents, etc. Cover them up, and keep them sharp. Especially when on the ice fishing.

The exhaust on gas augers gets very hot - it will melt your jacket, gloves, or skin. Be aware after drilling many holes, not to burn yourself, others or gear.

Refrain from spilling gasoline when filling. It will find it's way onto your lures, gear, line, hands, bait - and it turns off fish. Fill it at home in your warm garage, without wind or excited hands increasing the chance of spillage.

Store a gas auger on its side - tank side up for transport, and close the vent plug. Stop leaks, and gas from contaminating your gear in transport.
Bonus tip learned from another AO member - adapt a milk crate, or build a box to store your auger power head upright, without the flyte attached. Works great for off season storage too.

It seems to happen every year; a power auger is drilled halfway into the ice and left upright while fishing. If there are poor ice layers, or if the hole is drilled too close to liquid water - the hole fills with water and the auger flyte freezes into the ice. The flyte spindle isn't very thick, and it doesn't take much to bend, so retrieval is tricky. More often than not, they are abandoned to fall to the bottom of the lake in spring.
If drilling to stand your auger, be sure to finish drilling the hole all the way through at the end of the day so that it freezes. A hole not fully drilled through, will fill with windblown snow, and can be an ankle breaker.

Keep your blades very sharp! Doing so makes drilling holes much easier on the power head, drills holes faster, burns less fuel and effort. Dull blades put unnecessary strain on the power head, wearing it out prematurely.
Bonus tip - keep a spare set of blades and a multi-tool in your ice kit in case of on ice blade damage - like when your buddy asks to try your auger and drills into the rocks.
sounds like you had an awesome day.
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  #20  
Old 03-05-2018, 09:33 PM
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RavYak RavYak is offline
 
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A trick I was taught about transporting a gas auger especially inside a car/suv is to pull the cord until you feel resistance building. This positions the piston near top of its stroke blocking the inlet port to the cylinder stopping gas from leaking into the cylinder and out the exhaust port into your vehicle.

For propane and other 4 stroke augers make sure you set it down with the right side facing up(should be marked) otherwise your oil will leak out. Had a buddy forget to do that once and in his sled to boot, oil leaked out onto his tent and other gear in the sled.

After drilling a whole don't set it down blade first into the snow. The snow will stick to the wet blades/bit and then will freeze making it hard to drill more holes and possibly required you to chip the ice off. Instead have a spot kicked clear and set the auger down so the bit avoids the snow.

If it is really cold bring your auger in the tent for at least a few minutes if you are deciding to move. Warming it up a bit will make starting easier.

Learn how to prime and start your auger effectively. Start with the recommended steps but don't be afraid to mix things up a bit and find what works best. You might find you need to prime it a bit more in cold weather or that there is a certain amount of throttle that helps start it.

Especially once warm your auger should start on the first pull, when cold it should still only take 2-3 pulls. If it is regularly hard starting then you need to get it cleaned up/tuned up.

Use premium ethanol free fuel in your auger. When getting fuel run a couple liters into vehicle or other can first(to avoid the regular fuel with ethanol still in pump hose). Shell premium is one of the best choices due to being ethanol free and having more cleaning agents in it then most other gas.

Don't drive around with the auger resting on your tailgate. Warranty doesn't cover damage when it falls off and cracks the housing(a customer learned that one not me lol).

Probably more but those are a few that I didn't see mentioned.
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  #21  
Old 03-08-2018, 03:08 PM
Drewski Canuck Drewski Canuck is offline
 
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End of season, dump out as much fuel as you can from the tank.

Tip Auger back upright and close the tank.

Start and Run the Auger full open until it stalls and all the gas is used up.

Open the tank cap and see if you are dry. If so, you are almost ready to put it away.

If still fuel, you have to keep going until the tank is dry.

You have a much better chance of avoiding varnish in the carb if it is stored dry for the summer.

Next, pull the plug, spray some storage spray into the cylinder. Pull it over a couple of times with the plug out. Clean the plug, and then put the plug back in.

Rings will not stick on the cylinder over summer If storage spray is used after running the carb dry.

Failure to use storage spray takes the life out of a lot of small engines that sit for long stretches.

Drewski
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  #22  
Old 03-08-2018, 04:53 PM
RACKER RACKER is offline
 
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This is all great advice i wish i had at the beginning of the season!Thanks for all the good posts.One piece of advice I have is when Travelling with the auger in the back of truck i keep the motor always elevated and wedged between some old carpet rolls-saves getting damaged when ya hit that ice heave you didnt see and the trucks back end bounces off the ground.
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  #23  
Old 03-10-2018, 10:33 AM
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Just 2 points:

1) Drain your tank dry at the end of every season; and

2) The most significant improvement in performance, especially for ease of starting, is to use only premium octane fuel.
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  #24  
Old 03-10-2018, 08:58 PM
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Bergerboy Bergerboy is offline
 
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Default Avoid Ethanol

I run mine on AFD race fuel. Its $3 a liter but augers maybe use a couple liters a season. I also use Motul 710 synthetic mix oil. Starts 1 pull after sitting all summer.
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