Auger problems

Rmagnu01@aol.com · #1 02-04-2017, 03:33 PM

Eskimo auger 3 years old. was running fine, now have problems with flooding out. seems like it is sucking gas from the bowl while running causing gas all over the place. done everything except take carb apart. any ideas???

Thanks

dewalt18 · #2 02-04-2017, 03:37 PM

Sounds like the floats are stuck.

Rmagnu01@aol.com · #3 02-04-2017, 03:43 PM

have to take the carb apart to see the floats?

YEP, I voted too!!!

dewalt18 · #4 02-04-2017, 03:52 PM

Depends on the carb. Typically the float bowl is very easy to pull off the bottom. Your best bet would be to google your auger model, and add the word flooding. It will likely take you to either some dedicated forum threads, or some good YouTube instructional videos

Rmagnu01@aol.com · #5 02-04-2017, 03:59 PM

Thanks for the info, will follow through on that. Have already been reading forum information. Definitely sounds like the carb needs to be cleaned, somehow some dirt got in there!

Kim473 · #6 02-05-2017, 06:52 AM

sea foam !

Landlocked_Newfie · #7 02-05-2017, 07:29 AM

Last year mine was leaking around the carb bad. That was an easy fix. But unfortunately it was after I had removed the carb. I noticed a small plastic elbow was cracked. Note to self Carb removal not necessary... I ordered x2, replaced one and no leak. This year she seems to run badly. I put 1/2 cup or so Seafoam in the tank. I started it to clean out gas and shut off immediately. Gave her a few pulls with trottle open and switch off. Let sit a few hours. I removed the air cleaner dumped the carb and proceeded to spray the living hell out of the carb. Let it sit a bit again. Dumped out carb again, filled with 24:1 mixture and it fired up on the second pull and idled like a charm. It's a 2hp StrikeMaster Mag 2000 with 8 1/4 chipper blade purchased in 2001. Last trip out she wanted to stall a few times so yesterday I changed the 16 yr old spark plug, It's is still starting and idling fine. Now to take it back to a lake and try it out.

Rmagnu01@aol.com · #8 02-05-2017, 08:14 AM

Mine seems to idle OK but when I give it gas bog's down, or w hen I give it gas I have gas leaking all over the place. it's coming from the bulb, almost like it's being sucked out.

FISHBATTEREDBEER · #9 02-05-2017, 08:22 AM

Easy fix remove the carb,screw your set screws in all the way,count how many turns each screw turns until they bottom out.Remove both screws and be careful not to Lose the spring and O ring for each.Remove the bottom cover on the carb ,you will see a little needle jet,this is what operates the float.With a can of carb cleaner spray everything down good and reassemble.Drain the tank,spray carb cleaner in the tank and hose to carb.Reattach the fuel line to the carb. Refill,add seafoam.I recently did this to my model 30 jiffy and it runs like new.

Dean2 · #10 02-05-2017, 10:46 AM

DO NOT REMOVE CARB as your first step. First step is ALWAYS to add a good shot of Seafoam to the gas and into the carb. Fire it up or give it a few pulls to work the gas and cleaner into the whole system. Take and spray carb cleaner into the carb. Let it sit over night. Keep the auger in a nice warm place so the cleaner can do its work the best.

In the morning, install a brand new pug, prime with bulb. Check for any leaks, then fire up auger and let run on low to med idle till warm. If needed, adjust low speed mixture and idle screw.

Most Jiffy's are Diaphragm type Carbs and do not have an actual float and float bowl. If you have gas leaking before it gets to the carb it is more likely a cracked hose or defective bulb/clamp etc, If you have gas leaking at the carb then likely the o-ring is broken, but this almost never happens unless the carb was removed, check to see the carb bolts are tight.

Let us know how you make out.

Drawing of typical auger carb.

Rmagnu01@aol.com · #11 02-05-2017, 11:04 AM

I have a Eskimo Stringray S33. It appears the gas is coming from the bulb hose when I give it gas. I don't think that is right. The gas runs all over where the air intake filter is getting it soaked. Eventually the auger will not run. I don't think there should be gas coming from the bulb hose once it's running. am I correct thinking that? Still checking into what people think! THANKS for any help, I will have to get some seafoam.

Dean2 · #12 02-05-2017, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rmagnu01@aol.com

I have a Eskimo Stringray S33. It appears the gas is coming from the bulb hose when I give it gas. I don't think that is right. The gas runs all over where the air intake filter is getting it soaked. Eventually the auger will not run. I don't think there should be gas coming from the bulb hose once it's running. am I correct thinking that? Still checking into what people think! THANKS for any help, I will have to get some seafoam.

Well telling us the exact model is quite helpful. In the case of the Stingray 33 the primer bulb is attached directly to the carburetor. Your leak has nothing to do with the actual carb, but is the result of a leak in the screwed on bulb and bulb holder. Something has let go, and ten to one it is a crack in the relatively hard plastic bulb. Your auger should have come with a couple of spares. You can remove the bulb assembly without taking the carb off the engine and replace the bulb.

If it isn't the bulb check for a crack in the hose or it may be loose where it hooks on so you can try putting a hose clamp where it hooks to the carb.

FISHBATTEREDBEER · #13 02-05-2017, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dean2

DO NOT REMOVE CARB as your first step. First step is ALWAYS to add a good shot of Seafoam to the gas and into the carb. Fire it up or give it a few pulls to work the gas and cleaner into the whole system. Take and spray carb cleaner into the carb. Let it sit over night. Keep the auger in a nice warm place so the cleaner can do its work the best.

In the morning, install a brand new pug, prime with bulb. Check for any leaks, then fire up auger and let run on low to med idle till warm. If needed, adjust low speed mixture and idle screw.

Most Jiffy's are Diaphragm type Carbs and do not have an actual float and float bowl. If you have gas leaking before it gets to the carb it is more likely a cracked hose or defective bulb/clamp etc, If you have gas leaking at the carb then likely the o-ring is broken, but this almost never happens unless the carb was removed, check to see the carb bolts are tight.

Let us know how you make out.

Drawing of typical auger carb.

yes try this first!

Rmagnu01@aol.com · #14 02-05-2017, 01:48 PM

It seems like the bulb is good and the gas is actually coming out the end of the hose at the carb, I will take a closer look. The hose is already attached to the carburetor via a hole it fits into. it looks like the hose has been melted to insure it doesn't come loose.

I will double check to make sure the gas isn't coming from the bulb area. THANKS. I squirted carb cleaner in the carb and right now letting it sit. Was going to get the seafoam tomorrow, but now sounds like i may not need it! THANKS.

no extra bulbs though!

Xbolt7mm · #15 02-05-2017, 02:00 PM

I may be wrong here but I have never seen a small 2 stroke with a bowl style carb. But there sure is lots of advise how to fix one on an auger. When you screw in your hi and low and you tighten it too much to bottom it out, throw out the carb its now junk. If the carb is set wrong and causing it to run rough what good is it to set the screws back to the same spot?. The round rubber diaphragm with the alumn. Tab is the fuel pump. The other side of the carb has a metering diaphram. The piston goes down past the compression hole which causes a vacuum and pulls the pump diaphragm up, then the piston comes up and the compression pushes the diaphragm down, the alumn tab hits the middle rocker on the needle valve and squirts fuel into the carb throat. The meter diaphragm merely is a check valve to to stop the compression from just pumping bach and forth. Take it apart and clean it with a good carb cleaned. Put the screws back in the same hole and at the same spot for now. There should be no spring or o-ring (doubtful anyway). Blow it out with compressed air. Now put the 20 dollar carb kit in that you already bought, cuz after three years and you got it apart anyway right. Now as much as I hate typing this all out again here goes. To set the carb. Warm it up, you may need to play with the choke a bit to keep it running until its hot. Now screw the low in or out until it reaches the highest rpm and at the smoothest point then leave it for now. Screw the high in or out until it reaches its highest rpm, then screw it in a bit more until it starts to run rougher (if you screw it out it will do the same thing except will lean seize your engine). Now do your low again and then your high again. Let it idle down and nail it, if it hesitates screw in the high a smidge more until that stops. Do the low one more time and now set the idle screw.. That my friend is how to set any small two stroke. PS make sure the gaskets and diaphragms go in EXACTLY the same order you found them in. Ive had to fix lots that did it wrong

Xbolt7mm · #16 02-05-2017, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rmagnu01@aol.com

It seems like the bulb is good and the gas is actually coming out the end of the hose at the carb, I will take a closer look. The hose is already attached to the carburetor via a hole it fits into. it looks like the hose has been melted to insure it doesn't come loose.

I will double check to make sure the gas isn't coming from the bulb area. THANKS. I squirted carb cleaner in the carb and right now letting it sit. Was going to get the seafoam tomorrow, but now sounds like i may not need it! THANKS.

no extra bulbs though!

Never use carb cleaner on an assembled carb it wrecks the diaphragms!! And sea foam only removes fuel deposits and lubes the pistons for storage. I use it in my boat for winter storage. As far a for a two stroke, not much better than pixy dust cuz by the time it will make a difference your about 3 uses away from a carb kit anyway cuz the diaphragm is getting hard and wont pump fuel properly and you'll just end up with another wrecked fishing trip until you eventually need a kit. If the kit does not fix it you need a crank seal

FISHBATTEREDBEER · #17 02-05-2017, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xbolt7mm

I may be wrong here but I have never seen a small 2 stroke with a bowl style carb. But there sure is lots of advise how to fix one on an auger. When you screw in your hi and low and you tighten it too much to bottom it out, throw out the carb its now junk. If the carb is set wrong and causing it to run rough what good is it to set the screws back to the same spot?. The round rubber diaphragm with the alumn. Tab is the fuel pump. The other side of the carb has a metering diaphram. The piston goes down past the compression hole which causes a vacuum and pulls the pump diaphragm up, then the piston comes up and the compression pushes the diaphragm down, the alumn tab hits the middle rocker on the needle valve and squirts fuel into the carb throat. The meter diaphragm merely is a check valve to to stop the compression from just pumping bach and forth. Take it apart and clean it with a good carb cleaned. Put the screws back in the same hole and at the same spot for now. There should be no spring or o-ring (doubtful anyway). Blow it out with compressed air. Now put the 20 dollar carb kit in that you already bought, cuz after three years and you got it apart anyway right. Now as much as I hate typing this all out again here goes. To set the carb. Warm it up, you may need to play with the choke a bit to keep it running until its hot. Now screw the low in or out until it reaches the highest rpm and at the smoothest point then leave it for now. Screw the high in or out until it reaches its highest rpm, then screw it in a bit more until it starts to run rougher (if you screw it out it will do the same thing except will lean seize your engine). Now do your low again and then your high again. Let it idle down and nail it, if it hesitates screw in the high a smidge more until that stops. Do the low one more time and now set the idle screw.. That my friend is how to set any small two stroke. PS make sure the gaskets and diaphragms go in EXACTLY the same order you found them in. Ive had to fix lots that did it wrong

no spring or O ring in the carb?

look at DEAN2'S diagram of a carb,clearly shows them on the high/low idle screws and this exactly like the model 30.I OP carb may be different but cleaning it will be similar.I used carb cleaner on my carb with the diaphram and O rings out because too much carb cleaner with dry rubber parts out.It is true there isn't a "float" in there but the diaphram acts like one.

My auger has never run better since I did my clean up.

FISHBATTEREDBEER · #18 02-05-2017, 02:44 PM

I read about the high/low adjustments on model 30 carbs yrs ago and it was written that the tuning at the factory was set at a much higher elevation when comparing to here and will be needing adjustment right out of the box.My auger has way more torque after the cleaning and high/low adjustment.This may not include the OP's auger.

Map Maker · #19 02-05-2017, 02:59 PM

If your air filter is wet, that is from storing /transporting it wrong.
Always keep air filter up. This might be chocking your carb and nothing really wrong.

Xbolt7mm · #20 02-05-2017, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FISHBATTEREDBEER

no spring or O ring in the carb?

look at DEAN2'S diagram of a carb,clearly shows them on the high/low idle screws and this exactly like the model 30.I OP carb may be different but cleaning it will be similar.I used carb cleaner on my carb with the diaphram and O rings out because too much carb cleaner with dry rubber parts out.It is true there isn't a "float" in there but the diaphram acts like one.

My auger has never run better since I did my clean up.

Diaphragm does not act like a float at all,, the float lifts a lets the needle gravity fuel out and does not pump at all. The two types are completely different and dont operate simular at all. Compression does not effect a float system on how it functions at all. Float systems dont work on hand held equipment because they move around too much. Neither carbs Dean shows is a typical carb you see often. The old er pic, ive never worked on one that old, the second one is a Zama (as lots of the larger two strokes are. About 30 percent use Walbro's) that is so basic it does not even have a low and high and is an entry level crap carb. Ive done about 60 carb kits since sept and not one had springs or o rings. Some have the plastic locks to stop back yard hero's from seizing they own engines. Rubber o rings are common on four stroke carbs on their single air mis screws though. Secondly, im not here to argue with you or anyone else. Take my advise for what it is. I can tell you that I have been the shop foreman for one of the largest rental shops in southern alberta, owned my own business and managed a fleet of equipment for 4 large towns. Dispute/disagree with anything you want, your can of carb cleaner and sea foam dont really threaten my skill set at all. Kinda sorry I even clicked reply to help the guy, Good day sir,,,,,,

Rmagnu01@aol.com · #21 02-05-2017, 06:35 PM

My carburetor looks like the second one posted. The simple one with just an idle adjust and the other which I suspect is air/fuel adjustment. It sounds like you are suggesting that one of the diaphragms may be bad, is that true?

No need to get an attitude, I was just asking for help on something I'm not familiar with. Thanks for your input. Other people were saying to use the seafoam, so I was taking that as a suggestion from someone who knew what they were talking about.

Probably take the carb a part tomorrow to check the diaphragms. Have a good one.

Kim473 · #22 02-06-2017, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rmagnu01@aol.com

It seems like the bulb is good and the gas is actually coming out the end of the hose at the carb, I will take a closer look. The hose is already attached to the carburetor via a hole it fits into. it looks like the hose has been melted to insure it doesn't come loose.

I will double check to make sure the gas isn't coming from the bulb area. THANKS. I squirted carb cleaner in the carb and right now letting it sit. Was going to get the seafoam tomorrow, but now sounds like i may not need it! THANKS.

no extra bulbs though!

Get the seafoam anyways. I all ways put some in the gas for the toy's and they all ways run good. It helps keep everything clean when in use .

hellitsme · #23 02-06-2017, 08:38 AM

I was going to put a carb kit in my stingray 33 but when I priced out a kit it was $12 us and a whole carb was $25us its not worth messing around with a kit.

Rmagnu01@aol.com · #24 02-06-2017, 12:24 PM

thanks, I think your right. If it comes to that NEW CARB for me!

Rockyman41 · #25 02-06-2017, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rmagnu01@aol.com

thanks, I think your right. If it comes to that NEW CARB for me!

That's definitely your best bet. those are cheap carbs and are difficult to rebuild or repair without the plastic warping on you and causing more grief.

make sure you drain the tank and the lines before you install the new carb too. There might be debris hidden in there just waiting to mess up your day.

And if you aren't running it already, premium fuel, synthetic oil, and seafoam will keep it running happy for a long time

Rmagnu01@aol.com · #26 02-06-2017, 02:09 PM

Took the carb off and checked the bulb, it is good. Took the carb apart and everything looks good, blew it out real good with air hose. Not sure if diaphrams are good or not, look OK. Put it all back together and still fails. tried adjusting the air/fuel screw but didn't fix. seems to idle fine but when you give it alot of gas it eventually sucks gas out of the primer hose. the hose is good, no leaks.

I guess it must be the carb causing a suction that draws gas from the primer hose at higher RPM which cause flooding eventually. That is the only thing I can figure!

Oh well, ordering a new carb! Thanks bro for your input!

hairycanary · #27 02-08-2017, 06:48 PM

maybe try changing the fueline.Could be a pinhole causing vacuum leak.

Rmagnu01@aol.com · #28 02-13-2017, 03:42 PM

Put in the new carb, blewout the hoses and cleaned fuel filter and put new gas in tank, also checked for any particles in tank, looked good. Auger up and running like new for the time being. Thanks you everyone who gave me input on the problem I had!!! Oh yeah, also put some seafoam in the gas! Good fishing to all!

Kim473 · #29 02-14-2017, 05:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rmagnu01@aol.com

Put in the new carb, blewout the hoses and cleaned fuel filter and put new gas in tank, also checked for any particles in tank, looked good. Auger up and running like new for the time being. Thanks you everyone who gave me input on the problem I had!!! Oh yeah, also put some seafoam in the gas! Good fishing to all!

How much did the carb cost you ?