Handloading advice

deanmc · #1 12-05-2008, 11:06 PM

I am getting ready to handload for the first time. I will be loading a 30-06 and I understand bullets are specific to guns. (not all bullets shoot well in all guns)
I would appreciate help with how to test loads. I have read to load nine loads with each bullet. Three loaded at factory spec, three slightly light and three slightly heavy. Is this best?
I have a shooting vise so accuracy tests should be easy. However my local AFGA range is only 100 yards. Should I find a place to test at more than 100 yards? I would like to be confident to shoot at 300 yards.
Do I need to have equipment to read muzzle velocity?

The most important question is "How do I identify pressure problems"?

Jason Balesdent · #2 12-05-2008, 11:44 PM

Rule number One, buy a chronograph! That thing will become your best friend and save you a lot of headaches. Example, your manual tells you that X grains of type X powder will give you 3000 fps, you end up getting 3700 (or 2300) then you know something is wrong. As for test loads, ignore factory, there is no guarantee you will be able to get the same powder they use. Refer heavily to your loading manual and use their recommended loads. The method I used was somewhat simple. Pick the lowest load as the start point and the max as your finish (obviously) now what I did was this, my minimum to maximum was 4 grains in between. I took the cases I had (60) and split them evenly, 15 cases per full grain. Since I wanted to go .5 grain splits the math now doesn't work (7.5 cases per grain). Now some thinking I went 7 cases per half grain load and used the extras to load more around the mid-point loads. Luckily my rifle loves middle of the road loads and it only took me 60 rounds and one trip to the range. All loads were shot for accuracy only with velocity being a secondary consideration. Try it out and let us know how it goes.

gunsnreels · #3 12-05-2008, 11:53 PM

eol

deanmc · #4 12-06-2008, 12:48 AM

Chronograph Huh? How many bucks for one of them?

Scott N · #5 12-06-2008, 03:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deanmc

Chronograph Huh? How many bucks for one of them?

The basic model of the "Shooting Chrony" goes for about $120. I agree with Jason, they are a valuable reloading tool.

Dick284 · #6 12-06-2008, 07:13 AM

Chronographs are an awesome tool, but often a fellow is left chasing the numbers and not settling on the most accurate load.
Accuracy that's what your after, a hundred feet per second one way or the other for the most part is'nt gonna make a hill of beans difference.
I do not pull out the chronograph till I've found repeatable accuracy in a load, then I put it over the chrnograph to determine velocity , so I can crunch the ballistics.

I use this method to determine acceptable pressure in a rifle.
Take 5 fired factory cases that were fired from the rifle, all from the same lot and load. Take a micrometer and measure the case head expansion just forward of the case web. Write the average reading down and never loose it.
The next is a two part evaluation. When I work up loads I make 5 shells at each powder charge and shoot for accuracy, take you time let things cool between shots etc.
I will then measure the case head of each case for each group of loads just like I did for the factory loads, I will stay clear of loads that exceed the factory expansion by anything greater than 0.001", of course you have to use the same make of brass as the factory test.
All loads that fit the case head expansion criteria, and still provide good accuracy, will get loaded at least 5 more times in the same cases, if the primer pockets stay reasonably tight, and no other case wear issues such as incipent head seperation become evident your golden for the load being respectable for pressures in your rifle.

Things get goofy with calibers like the 30'06 in a modern bolt gun, because the 50,000CUP pressure limit for the 30'06 is in respect to the 1895 Winchester, and all things being equal modern bolt guns 53,000CUP should be a realistic pressure target. For this one stick to the case life criteria, and there is really no other way to judge safe for this caliber in this situation, short of a pressure transducer. The factory speed numbers will be nebulous, so will a lot of the load data, unless pressure data shows the 270Win/25'06(53,000CUP) pressure range in the data.

Good luck

A side note:
Flat primers, cratered primers, and sticky bolt lift are the worst signs of high pressure indication.
By the time any of these signs show up you are usually at least 25% over maximum design pressures, for the caliber.

Jason Balesdent · #7 12-07-2008, 11:45 AM

Knew I forgot something. After you've found your load and fired the cases a few times, take a paper clip and unfold it then bend about a quarter inch at a 90. Sharpen the point and reach down inside the case. Gently drag the clip up the side wall of the case and feel for a slight grab. If you get that grab #1, throw that case away and check the rest as head separation isn't far behind #2 check your loads to make 500% sure you're not loading heavy. Sometimes the bump will show up from repeated slightly hot loads that aren't hot enough to blow primers. Also do this every so often anyway as cases fatigue after a while but if it only shows uo after mulitple firings its not a hot load, just tired brass. Best thing you can do is read everything you can find, go carefully and follow manuals to the letter, just use caution with online reload info. Then get out and shoot til you can't shoot any more so you have to reload again,, practice, caution and patience are probably the 3 things that will help you most. And the odd screw up is normal, as long as you don't get hurt just chalk it up to experience and get back behind that press.

222rem · #8 12-07-2008, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deanmc

I am getting ready to handload for the first time. I will be loading a 30-06 and I understand bullets are specific to guns. (not all bullets shoot well in all guns)
I would appreciate help with how to test loads. I have read to load nine loads with each bullet. Three loaded at factory spec, three slightly light and three slightly heavy. Is this best?
I have a shooting vise so accuracy tests should be easy. However my local AFGA range is only 100 yards. Should I find a place to test at more than 100 yards? I would like to be confident to shoot at 300 yards.
Do I need to have equipment to read muzzle velocity?

The most important question is "How do I identify pressure problems"?

This is best advise by far.

Buy two or three reloading manuals read them they will answer most of your questions. You can't go wrong with reading reloading manuals.

deanmc · #9 12-07-2008, 09:05 PM

All great advice. Thanks everyone.

PoppaW · #10 12-07-2008, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 222rem

This is best advise by far.

Buy two or three reloading manuals read them they will answer most of your questions. You can't go wrong with reading reloading manuals.

For sure get some books. Go slowly and ask lots of questions. Don't try to make your gun faster than it should be. Work toward accuracy and good case life and find a fast powder. A chrony might pay for itself. Mine did as I was wasting time with the wrong powder in my 270 and I switched and got 150fps more with no pressure signs. Stuff like that is cool. 100 yard range is good for a long time till you can shoot good. Don't always shoot off the bench and 100 is a long way. Or turn the scope to 3 and try it

Have fun and learn. Take your time.