270 Reloading advice

[Slurpee]

I just bought a Browning Xbolt 270 and the dies to load my own bullets.
I will be loading with my brother who is experienced.

However, he uses a different caliber gun then me and recommended I ask on here for advice on what to buy to make great bullets.

I live and hunt primarily in the mountains and primarily hunt deer and black bear although I am starting to put some time into elk and moose.

Curious what people have had success with to get those long, straight, lethal shots that don’t wreck too much meat.

Also worth mentioning is that I am a new-ish shooter and have not played around at all with different bullets or even guns. I have had a 30-06 for my entire hunting career and did not enjoy shooting it because it kicked too hard for me. So, I’m happy to get as much info as possible and I also don’t have any preferences or brand loyalty.

I’m also cheap. Lol.

Thanks!

[catnthehat]

Most hunting Bullets in the 130 grain range and IMR 4831 will be fine to start with .
Cat

[Dean2]

Your 270 will kick nearly the same as your 30-06. Unless the old 06 had a bad stock design that made it a worse than normal kicker, going to hte 270 is not likely to change much in that specific department. I would suggest you buy a couple of boxes of cheap white box 130 grain Winchester and take it out, give it a try and see if you are okay with the recoil, before spending a bunch of money rigging up to load for it. The Winchester brass will work fine if you decide to keep the guun and start reloading.

As far as loading for it, very hard to beat Barnes TTSX in 130 grains, CCI 250 primer, WW brass and 7828SSC or 4831SC for powder. Will give you 130 grains at 3000-3100 fps, with good B.C., good SD and excellent penetration. Also very easy to develop a load for. Load a mid level charge, start .050 off the lands, or mag length and go shorter till you find the length that groups best, then work up the powder charge towards max looking for higher speed loads that group well. Best of luck.

[bdub]

Originally Posted by Slurpee

I just bought a Browning Xbolt 270 and the dies to load my own bullets.
I will be loading with my brother who is experienced.


I’m also cheap. Lol.

Thanks!

IF your really cheap you can just run your old 30.06 brass through your 270 dies and reload them. Case length will be a hair shorter than 270 brass.

[Pioneer2]

Originally Posted by catnthehat

Most hunting Bullets in the 130 grain range and IMR 4831 will be fine to start with .
Cat

Cup and core 130gr bullets and 56-57gr of IMR 4831 If using Barnes TTSX consult the online manual/free and load accordingly.Nosler data also free online.

[WildBillG]

Good chouce for an all round rifle. As The Cat said buy some of the Winchester white box ammo 130 grain and shoot them to become accostommed to the gun. If I were you I would buy a reloading manual and read all about the reloading process and steps. This is no offense to your brother but it will give you the knowledge as well.
When first shooting your 270 only shoot 5 or six shots and call it a day. Try to do this every couple of days soon you will notice the recoil seems a lot less. What you have done is conditioned your shoulder to recoil. It is not unlike pro wrestlers learning how to take falls.
You said you are cheap so if I were you I would look at the 145 grain Hornady ELDX for a bullet to shoot. They will shoot flat hit hard and are fairly tough up close and way out there. They are not the cheapest in the Hornady line but not expensive for a do it all bullet.
Here is a price list of what bullets run.
145ELDX $69.00 for 100
Barnes 130TTSX $50.00 for 50
Nosler 150 ABLR $75.00 for 100 may actua;;y be more.
Nosler 140 Accubond $65.00 for 50 similar to the ABLR
Hornady 140 SST $60.00 for 100 just a small notch behind the ELDX line.
The powders mentioned perform well if you can find it RL 26 would be another to try. As mentioned no matter what bullet you shoot you will need to find its seating depth for your rifle. I hope this helps and enjoy your new rifle.

[Pioneer2]

If not already in use , wear ear protection while shooting as to not to develop the dreaded flinch.A .270 barks but doesn't have uncomfortable recoil.

[fps plus]

The gold standard for the 270 is 130 grain bullets and imr or H 4831

[Tronneroi]

I found that the 270s I've shot had very similar recoil to 30-06. Maybe invest in a limbsaver

But like others have said, 130gr projectiles over 4831

[pjb274181]

I'd invest in a lead-sled. If you are trying to build up loads you are likely to shoot quite a few and you want to take "you" out of the equation.

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by pjb274181

I'd invest in a lead-sled. If you are trying to build up loads you are likely to shoot quite a few and you want to take "you" out of the equation.

Do NOT get a lead sled. They wreck guns and scopes. Put on a limbssaver and install a mercury suppressor, or install a brake for target shooting and take it off, replace it with a cap for hunting. Anything but a lead sled.

[waldedw]

Originally Posted by Dean2

Do NOT get a lead sled. They wreck guns and scopes. Put on a limbssaver and install a mercury suppressor, or install a brake for target shooting and take it off, replace it with a cap for hunting. Anything but a lead sled.

X2 the lead sled has ruined more stocks than ATV's

[savage shooter]

I've had great luck in 4 270s with 130 grain SSTs for target shooting and 130 grain GMX for hunting. Same load.

IMR4350 CCI primers. Season to taste.

[ram crazy]

How long is the barrel? This may make a big difference in what powder you want to use. My Remington Titanium has a 22” barrel and I use 54.6 gr. Of IMR 4350 it’s a little faster burning powder. When I tried IMR 4831 the rifle wouldn’t group to save its life. My Kimber Mountain Ascent has a 24” barrel and it groups good with 56 gr. of IMR 4831 I use 130 gr. Accubonds with Federal 210 primers

[ram crazy]

Originally Posted by Dean2

Do NOT get a lead sled. They wreck guns and scopes. Put on a limbssaver and install a mercury suppressor, or install a brake for target shooting and take it off, replace it with a cap for hunting. Anything but a lead sled.

You will get different groupings when you use a brake and then take it off for hunting. I find this changes the harmonics of the barrel. Bad idea to sight in with a brake and then remove to hunt with the rifle, it’s either on all the time or off all the time. I can’t believe you’d post that!

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by ram crazy

You will get different groupings when you use a brake and then take it off for hunting. I find this changes the harmonics of the barrel. Bad idea to sight in with a brake and then remove to hunt with the rifle, it’s either on all the time or off all the time.

My 6.5PRC changes the point of impact about 3" at 100m when the brake is removed. But I do agree with a lead sled being the last thing I would consider.

[southernman]

I used to carry a .270 win, culling deer and goats,
I shot three primary loads, 110 gr pmp for goats and small deer,
A 140 gr ballistic tip, both off these loads shot same point of impact to 250 m,
And a heavy 150 gr for close work on big animals, cattle and scrub bulls, red stags in the rut.
The .270 win is going to wreck meat, no matter what bullet you used, due to its relatively high velocity,
A Barns type, no lead, or a heavy soft point cal bullet (150-160) going a bit slower, may do less damage, most of the time, however there will be times, epically with a bone strike, that at least one front 1/4, will be a jellied mess.
If I was to do it over, I likely run a sleek 140-145 gr bullet, and a 110 gr accubond or barns, provided I could get them dialled in to similer point of impact to 250m of so.

[7magtime]

When I had a .270 in the past, I ran 140 Accubonds in front of IMR 4831. It worked well for me. Meat damage wasn't bad IMO...

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by ram crazy

You will get different groupings when you use a brake and then take it off for hunting. I find this changes the harmonics of the barrel. Bad idea to sight in with a brake and then remove to hunt with the rifle, it’s either on all the time or off all the time. I can’t believe you’d post that!

Taking a brake off means the POI will change, usually, so you do have to re-sight it once you remove the brake. I have never had a brake alter the group size in terms of the best grouping load with a brake on was still the best grouping load with the brake off. As far as lead sleds go, sight in using one, then take the gun and shoot at the same target without it. You will find a very large POI shift from that as well, so in addition to the potential damage they do they also need to have the gun re-sighted when shot from a normal hunting hold.

Do as you like, I think everyone should, but it is important for people to know the potential downside to using various pieces of equipment. Brakes can wreck your ears in one or two shots if you don't wear proper hearing protection, lead sleds can wreck your gun or scope, recoil pad and a Mercury decelerator do reduce recoil noticeably, but not near as much as a brake. If I was doing it, I would start with the pad and Mercury suppressor and only add the brake if the first measures weren't getting the job done well enough.,

[Ranger CS]

Lead Sled bashing once again! I have used one for years and never had an issue damaging anything including stocks. I have commented on this previously, noting that when using a sled it is important not to weight the sled down with extra ballast, and allow the sled to move somewhat upon recoil. I have used a sled with everything from the heavy magnums on down. I find the sled creates a very stable and steady platform from which to shoot which is big advantage for both sighting in and load development. It may also be worth noting that I place the sled on a smooth wooden surface to reduce friction between sled a the surface it is sitting on. I really wonder how many of you naysayers have actually personally used one and specifically how you used it? Lead sleds are merely a tool and like all tools need to be used appropriately.

[Dean2]

From the he Caldwell site about lead sleds

Features
Dual frame design for maximum recoil energy absorbtion
18" adjustment to fit any rifles and shotgun
Holds up to 100 lbs. of lead shot
Weights approximately 24 lbs. and 30" long x 12" wide

From the maker of the Caldwell Sled: Picture of Sled in use. Yup, that looks like just an excellent idea. Most people use them according to the instructions Caldwell sends with them. Therein lies the problem. It isn't bashing when you have to completely change the method of use to get something to work. How many guns and scopes get wrecked before guys figure out to let the sled recoil, not to add weight. I have fixed enough wrecked stocks to know it isn't an unusual occurrence, so for sure I would never put one of my own guns in one. Last post on the subject, do as you like but if you are going to recommend using a sled, at least post the whole story about how to do it so you maybe won't wreck your gun by following Caldwell's instructions..

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by Dean2

From the he Caldwell site about lead sleds



From the maker of the Caldwell Sled: Picture of Sled in use. Yup, that looks like just an excellent idea. Most people use them according to the instructions Caldwell sends with them. Therein lies the problem. It isn't bashing when you have to completely change the method of use to get something to work. How many guns and scopes get wrecked before guys figure out to let the sled recoil, not to add weight. I have fixed enough wrecked stocks to know it isn't an unusual occurrence, so for sure I would never put one of my own guns in one. Last post on the subject, do as you like but if you are going to recommend using a sled, at least post the whole story about how to do it so you maybe won't wreck your gun by following Caldwell's instructions..

Exactly! Using a product according to the manufacturers instructions, should not pose a risk to the firearm, and in the case of the Leadsled, firearms have been damaged, as well as the point if impact being effected.

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by Ranger CS

Lead Sled bashing once again! I have used one for years and never had an issue damaging anything including stocks. I have commented on this previously, noting that when using a sled it is important not to weight the sled down with extra ballast, and allow the sled to move somewhat upon recoil. I have used a sled with everything from the heavy magnums on down. I find the sled creates a very stable and steady platform from which to shoot which is big advantage for both sighting in and load development. It may also be worth noting that I place the sled on a smooth wooden surface to reduce friction between sled a the surface it is sitting on. I really wonder how many of you naysayers have actually personally used one and specifically how you used it? Lead sleds are merely a tool and like all tools need to be used appropriately.

I have used one, I actually bought one to test it out and find out for myself.
I found that it is the most uncomfortable shooting support I have ever used, and it is neither as accurate or versatile as a good front rest and rear bag set up, or even a Harris Bipod and rear bag.
I have seen two stocks broken at the range when using a lead sled.
I will never recommend one or even shoot with one anymore.
People can use what they want, however.......
Cat

[Ranger CS]

Originally Posted by Dean2

From the he Caldwell site about lead sleds



From the maker of the Caldwell Sled: Picture of Sled in use. Yup, that looks like just an excellent idea. Most people use them according to the instructions Caldwell sends with them. Therein lies the problem. It isn't bashing when you have to completely change the method of use to get something to work. How many guns and scopes get wrecked before guys figure out to let the sled recoil, not to add weight. I have fixed enough wrecked stocks to know it isn't an unusual occurrence, so for sure I would never put one of my own guns in one. Last post on the subject, do as you like but if you are going to recommend using a sled, at least post the whole story about how to do it so you maybe won't wreck your gun by following Caldwell's instructions.

Honestly, I never have seen Caldwell's instructions and agree it is p_ss p_or advise. I guess I am of the opinion that common sense always trumps poor instructions.

[Pioneer2]

That had a Rem 700 in .375 H+H snap at the pistol grip.

[interior_mike]

should take a look at what you can do with Reloader 26 in the .270 win with a 150gr. makes the 7mm mag and 270 Weatherby not the darlings as much. of course you cant find 26 anywhere in NA currently because of that

[partsman]

I switched to 140 grain bullets for my 270, still like my 130 and 150’s as I have
Lots on hand, but like my 165 all round in my 308, I found the 140 a good all round bullets.

[cowmanbob]

Reloder 19 and a 130 grain Gmx is a favourite. Hard to beat 4831 though.

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by WildBillG

Good chouce for an all round rifle. As The Cat said buy some of the Winchester white box ammo 130 grain and shoot them to become accostommed to the gun. If I were you I would buy a reloading manual and read all about the reloading process and steps. This is no offense to your brother but it will give you the knowledge as well.
When first shooting your 270 only shoot 5 or six shots and call it a day. Try to do this every couple of days soon you will notice the recoil seems a lot less. What you have done is conditioned your shoulder to recoil. It is not unlike pro wrestlers learning how to take falls.
You said you are cheap so if I were you I would look at the 145 grain Hornady ELDX for a bullet to shoot. They will shoot flat hit hard and are fairly tough up close and way out there. They are not the cheapest in the Hornady line but not expensive for a do it all bullet.
Here is a price list of what bullets run.
145ELDX $69.00 for 100
Barnes 130TTSX $50.00 for 50
Nosler 150 ABLR $75.00 for 100 may actua;;y be more.
Nosler 140 Accubond $65.00 for 50 similar to the ABLR
Hornady 140 SST $60.00 for 100 just a small notch behind the ELDX line.
The powders mentioned perform well if you can find it RL 26 would be another to try. As mentioned no matter what bullet you shoot you will need to find its seating depth for your rifle. I hope this helps and enjoy your new rifle.

Wow!
Thanks for taking the time to share all this info!

Appreciated.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by Dean2

Your 270 will kick nearly the same as your 30-06. Unless the old 06 had a bad stock design that made it a worse than normal kicker, going to hte 270 is not likely to change much in that specific department. I would suggest you buy a couple of boxes of cheap white box 130 grain Winchester and take it out, give it a try and see if you are okay with the recoil, before spending a bunch of money rigging up to load for it. The Winchester brass will work fine if you decide to keep the guun and start reloading.

As far as loading for it, very hard to beat Barnes TTSX in 130 grains, CCI 250 primer, WW brass and 7828SSC or 4831SC for powder. Will give you 130 grains at 3000-3100 fps, with good B.C., good SD and excellent penetration. Also very easy to develop a load for. Load a mid level charge, start .050 off the lands, or mag length and go shorter till you find the length that groups best, then work up the powder charge towards max looking for higher speed loads that group well. Best of luck.

Thanks.

My hunting mentor is recommending not using 130 grain bullets due to they may explode on impact and make a bigger mess.

However,most of the advice I got on this thread is recommending 130’s

Can you/someone explain why they would choose the lighter bullets?

Also, I plan to hunt larger animals like elk and moose is there a big difference in what bullet I would want for that?