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  #1  
Old 05-06-2008, 12:25 PM
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Default Broadhead accuracy?

New to bowhunting/shooting after a 15 year hiatus. Picked up a new bowtec last summer, and very impressed with how far compounds have come along since my last PSE about 15 years ago. My question is, when shooting field tips, accuracy is great. When I throw on broadheads on the same arrows, the accuracy is just as good (can group all arrows touching) but the broadheads are about 6" to the right of where the field tips group. Is this normal and just need to sight in different for the broadheads? Thanks in advance for any help.
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Old 05-06-2008, 02:06 PM
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No, it isn't normal nor would it be a good thing to sight it in just for BH's. It will take some finessing but you can have BH's and FP's shooting in the same hole.

I'll make my "House" diagnosis lol. Your arrows are planing to the right. Move your arrow rest to the left (very very slightly). Don't touch your sight during this fine tuning.....just your arrow rest. Shoot some FP's and then BH's...............don't touch your sight. You want to group the BH's and FP's so moving your sight is not important right now. If you notice the group getting smaller move the arrow rest more to the left.......if the group gets bigger you are without hope ...........anyway try that.
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Old 05-06-2008, 02:09 PM
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Alberta Bigbore Alberta Bigbore is offline
 
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i had the same problem when i shot that Hoyt trykon in 2006. Rackmastr introduced me to "Walk Back Tuning" and problem was solved
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Old 05-06-2008, 02:40 PM
nekred nekred is offline
 
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Broadheads will exaggerate slight tuning issues.

Walkback tuning is very important.

My tuning procedure is very detailed and somewhat proprietary. There are various ways to tune to maximise effect you want. Walkback tuning is incorporated into my tuning process.

Walkback tuning is very simple.... But can only be done after ensuring your bow is somewhat tuned.... sights are leveled, bow is leveled and is papertuned within the fletching hole. When that is done....

Walkback tuning
Put a vertical tape line on target that is plumb. Shoot at 10 yards and adjust sights until you are on the line. Then walk back to 20 and shoot, then 30 and shoot with same pin at top of target then as far back as you can in increments until you are almost hitting bottom of target. the farther the better.

At the farthest distance is your group left or right of the line. This is telling you which way arrow is side slipping. (this slip is what is exaggerated with a broadhead) If arrows are slipping right then move rest very slightly (1/32) left.

Then start again at 10 and adjust sight to center.... and keep on until it is centred. This will also be where you will get best performance out of arrow because of minimising drag. (arrow is coming straight out of bow)

Have Fun!...

One thing to remember is that when it comes to fine tuning a bow it is the archer more than the bow that needs to be tuned.

If you have a 1/2 inch variance from hand torque, release movement, creep, shake etc., is a 1/32 inch out of tune going to be noticeable?
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Old 05-06-2008, 05:16 PM
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If you want heads that will fly identical to your field points; mechanical broadheads are also an option.
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Old 05-11-2008, 01:55 PM
izzy izzy is offline
 
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4 blade slick tricks did it for me.
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Old 05-11-2008, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by izzy View Post
4 blade slick tricks did it for me.
i'm not sold on them.I can shoot a 3 blade from 80 to 100 yards and always hit the cube mostly near 7 to 8 in from center.Tried the slick's 4 blade and arrows were every where.Switched bake to 3 blades in line with fletchings and grouping from 80 to 100.Might be me but the arrows are spin tested and heads are flush they just don't fly well for me.I'd offer them to you but there dull from sand from missing target.lol
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Old 05-12-2008, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaybull View Post
i'm not sold on them.I can shoot a 3 blade from 80 to 100 yards and always hit the cube mostly near 7 to 8 in from center.Tried the slick's 4 blade and arrows were every where.Switched bake to 3 blades in line with fletchings and grouping from 80 to 100.Might be me but the arrows are spin tested and heads are flush they just don't fly well for me.I'd offer them to you but there dull from sand from missing target.lol
Wow you must have been shooting for a great many years. Or shoot alot to get that accurate. 80-100 yards is a very very long way. 2x's as far as most would attempt to shoot. Any idea what kind of KE you'd be getting out at 80 yards?

AL
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Old 05-12-2008, 11:20 AM
Trav Trav is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholal View Post
Wow you must have been shooting for a great many years. Or shoot alot to get that accurate. 80-100 yards is a very very long way. 2x's as far as most would attempt to shoot. Any idea what kind of KE you'd be getting out at 80 yards?

AL
I would be guessing that he is only practicing at this distance so when an animal is close he knows that he can do it. I practice out to 70 yards all the time. If i do my part most of my groups are inside 2 inches at 70 yards, so when i see a target at 30 yards i have no worries about it.
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Old 05-12-2008, 10:34 PM
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Cowboy Al Cowboy Al is offline
 
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I've just finished (if a guy can ever be finished???) tuning my bow with broadheads. I shot the 4 blade G5 Montecs and the 4 blade slick tricks. My groups with the slick tricks were identical to my field tips. The G5's while adequate weren't compareable to the slicks....Don't suppose anyone would be interested in 6 G5's....a 3 pack of gently used G5's and a brand new never opened 3 pack. (100 gr. heads.)
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Old 05-14-2008, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trav View Post
I would be guessing that he is only practicing at this distance so when an animal is close he knows that he can do it. I practice out to 70 yards all the time. If i do my part most of my groups are inside 2 inches at 70 yards, so when i see a target at 30 yards i have no worries about it.
ya i'd never shoot at an animal farther than 50 yards.Thats where i fell even if something goes south i can still be in the kill zone.I practice out to 100 yards cuz i can still hit the target,its fun,and 50 yards is no prob after 100.Ive only be shooting for 3 years.but have been told i have realy good form.I think it the bow.lolBut i shoot ALOT so i can get it done when it counts.
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  #12  
Old 05-19-2008, 04:05 PM
mitchw mitchw is offline
 
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Default Do a paper test!!

I suggest a parper test,I had the same problen with my new bow.Also what type of fletching are you using,and again the Montec G5 and the slick tricks will help.I found when I changed to three inch fletching it made a huge differance.
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  #13  
Old 05-22-2008, 09:33 AM
russ russ is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alberta Bigbore View Post
i had the same problem when i shot that Hoyt trykon in 2006. Rackmastr introduced me to "Walk Back Tuning" and problem was solved
x2 - walk back kicks butt & gives the best results.
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  #14  
Old 06-13-2008, 03:46 PM
Renslip Renslip is offline
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Default Vanes?

What type of vanes are you using. I had the same problem. I went to 2" Blazers and fixed the problem. Make sure your vanes are in line with your broadhead, it will make a difference in how they fly.
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