A Little Pruning Advice

[TreeGuy]

I've had a couple of questions regarding tree pruning, so I wrote this up on another site. Thought it might be worth the read here for anyone who does there own stuff. Please keep in mind that this was written by just another know it all sh*thead Newfie, so take it with a grain of salt.........right bareballz?

1.) The One Third Rule: Never remove more than a third of a tree's mass. It will stress it, and leave it vulnerable to insects/diseases. Part two of the rule is that if you are going to shorten a branch, cut it back to a secondary branch that is never less than a third of the diameter of the cut. Don't leave a stub, and the angle of the cut should be the same as the angle of the side branch.

2.) The Three 'D' Rule: Made this one up myself. Essentially, when you begin, remove all of the branches that are Dead, Dying and Diseased. Follow this up by cutting out some of the crossed over branches, a few thinning cuts and you're about 90% done.

3.) The Future Rule: Try to picture what you want the tree to look like 5, 10, 20 years down the road. Try to make your cut selection process based on this. Think about creating a strong and sound structure for your tree. Those small knee high limbs may seem harmless now, but later they will be a major pain in the azz if you're trying to get a mower under there.

We deal mainly with residential ornamentals, orchard pruning is a different animal with different techniques alltogether. Thus, when we start, I try to make the tree functionable for the homeowner. I'll raise the canopy, and try to ensure that no one is going to get poked in the eye. Also, if it is, or will be encroaching on a structure, drive way, etc, plan for it and cut accordingly.

4.) Make good cuts. If you observe where the branch attaches to the main trunk, you'll notice there is a swelling at this point. This is called the branch collar, and this is where you want to make your cut. The reason for this is that when the cut is made on the collar, it activates and releases a hormone that instigates the healing process. If you cut beyond the collar (stub), this hormone will not be released. Thus the decay process begins and the stub will rot back into the main stem. This can cause a multitude of events, no of which are good.

5.) There is no need to use 'pruning paints', tars and such. Reasearch has shown that these products/techniques actually inhibit healing.

6.) Use good tools. The pruning shears I use are Felco #8s. I've had them on the job for 10 years. I once worked with a guy who had his for over 30. 'Nuff said. For a handsaw, get one with a curved blade about 13" in length (I use Coronas) and the teeth are sharpened in such a way that they cut as you are pulling on it rather than pushing. You can buy a cheaper version at Canadian Tire, WalMart or any garden center. It will serve you well, but they are VERY sharp.

7.) Be SAFE! Ladders can be bad news, I fall off of 'em often! lol If you are going to climb into the tree, follow the 'Three Point Rule', which essentially means that only 1 hand or 1 foot is not in contact with the tree at any given point in time. Also have some sort of 'fall arrest' system/plan in place. Falling ain't that bad, it's the abrupt stop that sucks........trust me.

Eye protection is vital too. Glasses save me at LEAST once a day. Apples can be very tangly with tough wood and sharp spurs. My industry loses a worker about every 1.4 days in the US, so be safe!

8.) Optimal purning times. As Hunter mentioned, the ideal time for pruning is when there are no leaves on the tree (there are exceptions, like maples, birch and elms). At this point in time, the sugars/energys are in being stored in the root system and various locations throughout the main trunks. These energys are hypothetically powerful enough to leaf out the tree in the spring, thus removing branches at this time will provide a surplus of energy to the best/strongest/healthiest you have choose to remain.

OK, whew, I think I'm done. If I come up with anything else I'll post it. Or if you, or anyone for that matter have any further questions/thoughts, please ask and I'll be more than happy to help. Good luck!

Tree

[artie]

good article.What do you think of the rule that you only prune in months that have a r in them.

[Tredeb]

great info, thanks!

Trev

[thumper]

Thanks Tree - great info!

2 quick questions:

- does 'pruning tar' or paint help when the bark of a tree has been skinned off or bruised by heavy equipment? It seems to stop the sap from oozing out of the wound.

- cherry trees seem to grow lots of leaves and small stems off the main trunk. Should these be trimmed off to shape the tree into a more 'tree-like' shape (and not so much like a bush?) I'd like to get the foliage high enough off the ground that the deer stop trashing them!

[TreeGuy]

Hi Thumper.

Although losing bark from the trunk isn't great, it's not the end of the world either. These are called 'mechanical injuries', and unless it's been skinned entirely around the trunk, ya still have a fighting chance.

First, take a sharp knife and clean things up around the wound. If there is a chuck of bark that is still attached, I'll try to put it back into place and use simple electrical tape. It will not re-attach, but it will keep the sun off of the wound which can be detrimental. After about 2 seasons, if the tape hasn't naturally come off on its own, just remove it and cut away any remaining bark tissue that has by now dried out. At this point, you will notice the edges of the original injury are starting to 'swell' to begin covering the area.

They've found that the 'pruning paints' and tars are inhibitors to healing as they are petroleum based in nature, thus detrimental when ingested into the tree's system. However, check with your local garden center, as there are a variety of commercial trunk wraps availiable that are organic.

Finally, don't worry too much about any sap coming out of the wound. In some species (evergreens ) it's actually a defense mechanism.

As for your cherry, you're doing the right thing to raise the canopy. Just I guess, but it sounds like a Schubert (leaves end up red?). Suckering is in their nature, so try and keep the trunk clean. Also, the Prunis family (cherries) are notorious for suckering, paticularly from the base of the trunk. It's a pain in the azz (I have one in my own front yard and it's a weekly process).

What you may want to try is to take about a 12" length of something (weeping tile is good) to cover the base of the trunk. That way you can get in there with a trimmer safely.

Ok, I'm done..........sorry for the novel!

Tree

[thumper]

Thanks Tree,

Lose the black goop and get out the pruning shears.
I think the cherry tres are Lapins. They're at our cabin's garden in BC south of Cranbrook. Damn mule deer will eat the siding off your house if they get a chance!