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  #31  
Old 11-17-2014, 10:19 AM
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[QUOTE=SonofDixie;2620249]Right. I read where it is supposed to have a spiral effect inside the animal but i like to hear real world experience over what the website says.

I was wondering if they needed to be matched to fletching due to said spiral effect. How would i go about figuring that out?[/QUOTE]

Right hand bevel needs right hand fletch left bevel, left fletch.
It's just an arrow, we aren't going to the moon. manufacturers think up far to many ways to separate us from our paychecks.
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  #32  
Old 11-17-2014, 10:39 AM
calgarychef calgarychef is offline
 
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Default Two blades

Single bevel does split bones a bit better, it's been proven but it's a marginal advantage at best. When guys are hunting big heavy boned animals they try and wring the last ounce out of "penetration possibilities." We don't have animals built like that here, a reasonably sharp arrow through the ribs and both lungs is what we're always after. This works best on broadside shots with well tuned equipment. Three blades makes an impressive hole and they do bleed externally a bit better, I don't think that up for debate either.
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  #33  
Old 11-17-2014, 12:24 PM
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The 2 blade single bevel with that middle bleeder blade looks like it might be the thing i want to try. The single bevel will give the internal disruption and the bleeders will do just that and maybe give a good blood trail? I'm obviously speculating. Cant wait to have real life experience with them.

Would you use the same broadhead for bear?
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  #34  
Old 11-17-2014, 08:52 PM
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Default DRTs

I ordered them from the manufacturer. Ended up being a bit pricy after shipping and exchange. Sounds like the few places I called looking for them have them ordered but not yet in stock.
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  #35  
Old 11-17-2014, 10:52 PM
45-70sapper 45-70sapper is offline
 
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Originally Posted by getatmewolf View Post
I ordered them from the manufacturer. Ended up being a bit pricy after shipping and exchange. Sounds like the few places I called looking for them have them ordered but not yet in stock.
Thanks, I heard they even put handwritten notes in the packages. Sounds like a quality company with good people.
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  #36  
Old 11-19-2014, 11:50 AM
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Here is a new Stainless 2 blade that will be introduced next week. Made by Bearpaw Germany, Called German Jagers.

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  #37  
Old 11-19-2014, 12:52 PM
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Looks pretty slick. How much for a pack?
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  #38  
Old 11-22-2014, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SonofDixie View Post
Right. I read where it is supposed to have a spiral effect inside the animal but i like to hear real world experience over what the website says.

I was wondering if they needed to be matched to fletching due to said spiral effect. How would i go about figuring that out?
Dr Ed Ashby did some research on this. Matching the fletching is better but not by much.
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  #39  
Old 11-22-2014, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by SonofDixie View Post
Looks pretty slick. How much for a pack?
Don't know where the picture went, but here it is again, They are supposed to sell around the $40 a 3 pack , if all goes according to the plan they have for them.

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  #40  
Old 11-22-2014, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by petew View Post
Don't know where the picture went, but here it is again, They are supposed to sell around the $40 a 3 pack , if all goes according to the plan they have for them.

Awesome thanks pete
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  #41  
Old 11-22-2014, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Knotter View Post
Dr Ed Ashby did some research on this. Matching the fletching is better but not by much.


Ya.... i figured it really wouldn't matter all that much. No doubt it helps, so why not get all the help you can get. lol. Help give it the extra twist on the inside.
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  #42  
Old 11-22-2014, 08:25 PM
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I have some prototypes and they are a solid well made head. The prototypes had a tanto tip and that has been changed to a conventional cut to the tip like the photo. Much better I think.
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  #43  
Old 11-22-2014, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by SonofDixie View Post
Ya.... i figured it really wouldn't matter all that much. No doubt it helps, so why not get all the help you can get. lol. Help give it the extra twist on the inside.
If you fletch right and the arrow is spinning right and the head is beveled to twist left I think it is going to be counter productive on impact.
I prefer a conventional blade. By the way How many know what type of DR. , Dr. Ed Asby is??
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  #44  
Old 11-23-2014, 09:08 AM
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In my opinion based on less than 20 big game animals shot with 2 blade broad heads. They are the best penetrating style. They make a large slice and do tonnes of dammage. They fly well, particularly well out of a one cam bow if indexed. I have found that in a one cam bow they fly the same as field points. I would still be useing them if it wasn't for one experience. I shot a bull elk and no blood trail. I was shooting up hill and hit it in the bottom third of the chest making a complete pass through. Luckily the elk only went 50 yds and died within my view. My theory was the slit did not allow the blood to drip/spray. I know that this can happen with a 3 blade broad head too but probably less likely. All of the other animals that I shot with the 2 blade heads made a great blood trail though.
That being said my wife has an older one cam bow at 40lbs. She used a two blade broad head to take an elk at 30yds a couple of years ago. Complete pass through and she was easily able to follow the short blood trail.
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  #45  
Old 11-23-2014, 09:53 AM
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Everybody has different experiences. Personally I hate mechanical blades. Every so often I think there must some new mechanical broadhead innovation that has overcome the shortcomings that mechs have. Never found one. Don't even bother suggesting one to me as I might buy it and go down the same road of disappointment and regret

Two blades are great, so are three blades and four blades. I have them all. These are my winter arrows lol. Oldschool Magnus. The arrows are Nugent (Goldtip) and I even have some Nugent 2 blade broadheads still in packages (Magnus made them for Nugent).


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  #46  
Old 11-23-2014, 09:16 PM
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Magnus Stinger®
125 grain 2-blade
2 3/16" X 1 1/8"

Got some of these but have not used them on game anyone have an option either way on them?

They fly well and don't whistle like some other heads I have tried. I tried Montex 3 blades but was disappointed with their penetration and am hoping these will do better.

Thanks
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  #47  
Old 11-23-2014, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ehntr View Post
Everybody has different experiences. Personally I hate mechanical blades. Every so often I think there must some new mechanical broadhead innovation that has overcome the shortcomings that mechs have. Never found one. Don't even bother suggesting one to me as I might buy it and go down the same road of disappointment and regret

Two blades are great, so are three blades and four blades. I have them all. These are my winter arrows lol. Oldschool Magnus. The arrows are Nugent (Goldtip) and I even have some Nugent 2 blade broadheads still in packages (Magnus made them for Nugent).




Those are sweet man. And congrats on the many a success with them!
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  #48  
Old 11-23-2014, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ehntr View Post
Everybody has different experiences. Personally I hate mechanical blades. Every so often I think there must some new mechanical broadhead innovation that has overcome the shortcomings that mechs have. Never found one. Don't even bother suggesting one to me as I might buy it and go down the same road of disappointment and regret

Two blades are great, so are three blades and four blades. I have them all. These are my winter arrows lol. Oldschool Magnus. The arrows are Nugent (Goldtip) and I even have some Nugent 2 blade broadheads still in packages (Magnus made them for Nugent).


Can't be true randy. Everyone knows a fixed blade won't fly proper from a compound.
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  #49  
Old 11-24-2014, 05:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6.5 shooter View Post
Magnus Stinger®
125 grain 2-blade
2 3/16" X 1 1/8"

Got some of these but have not used them on game anyone have an option either way on them?

They fly well and don't whistle like some other heads I have tried. I tried Montex 3 blades but was disappointed with their penetration and am hoping these will do better.

Thanks
http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/showthread.php?t=196633

Last year I got a bear, elk, and moose with Magnus 125gr Stingers. Got great penetration on all the animals.
Bleeder blades will bend when you hit bone. I took pics and emailed Mike at magnus expecting them to replace the bleeders that were damaged as per there warranty.
I was very surprised when 2 packs of 125gr Stingers and 2 packs of 125gr Buzzcuts showed up in the mail!
They fly great and tuned very easy for me.
Only thing I can think of that is a down side to them is re aligning the main blade after sharpening. I know there are easy ways of doing it but it usually takes me a couple mins to make the blade spin true.
Other than that you won't find a better broad head or customer service in the industry.

Hope that helps
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  #50  
Old 11-24-2014, 08:24 AM
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I have personally taken many dozens of big game animals with two blade heads with compound... back in the day it was Bear Razorhead or NAP Razorback style heads...

I found the oppisite on blood...much better bloodtrail than most low profile heads today

Thing is most a hand sharpen and most did not know how to do that properly and heads were used dull IMHO...

Both heads I mentioned above had bleeder blades but I didnt use them with the Bear Razorhead...

I stopped using them when they changes the grade of metal for heads and they became harder to properly sharpen to my likeing...

I wouldnt hesitate to use a two blade head as long as its razor sharp...its done very well for thousands of years

Some may take a little work to make fly on border tuned bows... some times indexing them makes a huge differance... I always lined/indexed mine with a blade in line with right hen feather/vane...

I am tempted to try the grizzlys

95% of animals lost I have seen is with mecanicals and modern low profile heads..3 and 4 blade...however as stated I am thinking shot placement has a lot to do with that...

JMHO
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  #51  
Old 11-24-2014, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petew View Post
If you fletch right and the arrow is spinning right and the head is beveled to twist left I think it is going to be counter productive on impact.
I prefer a conventional blade. By the way How many know what type of DR. , Dr. Ed Asby is??

He didn't get a PHD in arrow lethality... if that job existed he'd probably be a likely candidate. He was an Ophthalmologist in the army. As far as I'm concerned, Ashby is the only person who has even attempted research on the matter that wasn't tied to a set of manufacturing tools that produced broadheads. I think many guys out there attribute too much of their success to one factor such brand of broadhead... as a result they ignore or are unaware of the other factors. The style of broadhead is important but is among a host of factors to improve your odds of success in making a clean kill. How often have wee seen stories posted where a bowhunter doesn't make a clean kill and attributes it to broadhead failure. No mention of the overall weight of the arrow, FOC, insert type... etc.

Blocks of concrete, hunks of plywood, phone books etc. are not the animals we hunt. Most broadheads on the market work when the archer does a reasonably good job with the shot ...it's when things go wrong.
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  #52  
Old 11-24-2014, 11:43 AM
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He didn't get a PHD in arrow lethality... if that job existed he'd probably be a likely candidate. He was an Ophthalmologist in the army. As far as I'm concerned, Ashby is the only person who has even attempted research on the matter that wasn't tied to a set of manufacturing tools that produced broadheads. I think many guys out there attribute too much of their success to one factor such brand of broadhead... as a result they ignore or are unaware of the other factors. The style of broadhead is important but is among a host of factors to improve your odds of success in making a clean kill. How often have wee seen stories posted where a bowhunter doesn't make a clean kill and attributes it to broadhead failure. No mention of the overall weight of the arrow, FOC, insert type... etc.

Blocks of concrete, hunks of plywood, phone books etc. are not the animals we hunt. Most broadheads on the market work when the archer does a reasonably good job with the shot ...it's when things go wrong.
Well done Knotter. Dr Ed is usually thought to be an MD, Surgeon etc, and to have vast internal medical knowledge that he applies to his studies. If he took the DR. off his name people would have never given him the time of day and learned from his experiments.

The unfortunate part of his work is people believe that you can shoot arrows thru the big shoulder bones and get suficent penetration to adequately penetrate the vitals. Ribs don't count, they are easy, same for the thin part of the blade, but the ridge on the blade and where it gets thick and turns into a ball joint are a diferent thing altogether. The best arrow setup in the world isn't going to help with the Big Bones.

It is also thought that some heads make magicaly large cuts. News flash, a 1" wide blade can only make a 1" cut at 90 deg. Now stab or shoot it thru at 30 or 45 deg, and you get large wide cuts, , not because the blade is magic, because the blade is going thru at an angle. Kind of like how you can make a shadow on the ground 20 feel long if the sun is low, and at high noon you barely cast a shadow past your shoes.
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  #53  
Old 11-24-2014, 12:26 PM
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knotter, that's a good post and it bears rereading. It's the total arrow and head combination coupled with well tuned equipment that makes an arrow perform well.
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  #54  
Old 11-24-2014, 01:27 PM
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[QUOTE=petew;2627879]If you fletch right and the arrow is spinning right and the head is beveled to twist left I think it is going to be counter productive on impact.
I prefer a conventional blade. By the way How many know what type of DR. , Dr. Ed Asby is??[/QUOTE]

Well he can improve or upgrade your glasses....lol

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  #55  
Old 11-24-2014, 01:51 PM
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As for hunting long enough, well I probably have hunting boots and socks that are older than most of the guys on here have been breathing.
I know and you are still wearing them!.....
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  #56  
Old 11-24-2014, 01:59 PM
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We all make our choices, I use both 2 and 3 blade heads depending on what bow I take . The thing that gets cloudy is when we get called to help track we are taking the guys word he made that "perfect shot" he claims to make. God forbid he would ever admit to screwing up a bit. So for an out he blames his equipment . 2 blade or Mechanical didn't open, etc. But the reality is the 2 blade is not at fault, it is shot placement. Far to many perfectly shot animals are lost , not from the style of head , but from poor shot placement , that the shooter thinks is a perfect shot.
Then we have people repeating the story about the 2 blade or mechanical failing, and they realy do not know that this is the cause . The animal is not found so for all we know it was hit in the ass or the hoof.

A muscle shot animal can and will clot up, but this does not happen in the lungs or heart where the arrow is supposed to be.
As for hunting long enough, well I probably have hunting boots and socks that are older than most of the guys on here have been breathing.
Yup Shot placement is king as well as patience... how many jump an animal too early and once it gets up and adrenalin flowing... gone to die elsewhere...

I had a mechanical fail to open both blades and it should have been a perfect shot but because of the way the broadhead failed it actually caused arrow to deflect after entering animal and what should have been a nice almost strait down shot between spine and shoulder blade into the heart turned and come out the rear.... when animal was recovered the wound channel was interesting. just clipped the one lung... after that I decided fixed blades would be the only way to go and just tune my equipment better...
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  #57  
Old 11-24-2014, 02:08 PM
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Yup Shot placement is king as well as patience... how many jump an animal too early and once it gets up and adrenalin flowing... gone to die elsewhere...

I had a mechanical fail to open both blades and it should have been a perfect shot but because of the way the broadhead failed it actually caused arrow to deflect after entering animal and what should have been a nice almost strait down shot between spine and shoulder blade into the heart turned and come out the rear.... when animal was recovered the wound channel was interesting. just clipped the one lung... after that I decided fixed blades would be the only way to go and just tune my equipment better...
Speaks volumes. and the amount of extra tuning required is usually little to none .
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  #58  
Old 11-24-2014, 05:18 PM
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Default 2 blade1. a heavier arrow at impact will penetrate further (and make your bow less noisy). Momentum is the gospel on this. BTW sts but so much more.

Many guys, including myself obsess(ed) about the bow we shoot and give only casual thought to the quality and integrity of the projectile. Too often the arrows and BHs get treated like an accessory. I have overheard some interesting conversations at the range/bow counter about how fast a bow is etc. For IBO speed the arrow they are using is effectively a soda straw with an aluminum insert and tiny field point. No talk of momentum, cutting performance, efficiency, bow noise.

Shooting proficiency is a whole other factor that is too often cited as a be all/end all response to arrow component selection. How many times have you seen a response like "put 'er where it counts and it don't matter"? What if the shooter freaks out and misses "where it counts"... That's where the killer arrow comes in to increase your odds a little.

Try this as a mental exercise... spend 20 minutes and develop the best/most lethal arrow you can and THEN worry about a bow that can shoot it well.

According to Ashby's studies. All other things things being equal :

1-cut on contact heads penetrate further than punch through style, and penetrate further on average than mechanicals (some fail to open). this equates to an immediate reduction of momentum.
2- tanto tips curl/bend/fail less often than other styles of tips... probably a reason why many millitary knives carry this profile.
3-a slick surface (arrow and BH) and reverse taper on an arrow penetrate further.
4 -Two blades penetrate further than 3 or 4.
5- Single bevel Broadheads continue to rotate after contact (it's only one factor). I wouldn't expect your best arrow to split the heavy part of a scapula no matter what. On marginal hits they do more damage than double bevels.

Now the other parts of the arrow....

6-Brass and steel inserts fail less often than aluminum inserts.
7 - EFOC arrows penetrate further than non EFOC. Something to do with less flex/oscillation. This is easier to do with heavy inserts.
8- Heavier arrows penetrate further... added benefit of possibly reducing bow noise ( a more efficient bow/arrow setup).
9- a thinner arrow penetrates further.

If each of these factors increase the results by even a few percent each it could be the difference between a hero shot and a sob story.

My $.02
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  #59  
Old 11-25-2014, 08:08 AM
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Good write...
a few years ago we did some broadhead tests using a fresh deer hide and a scale....were just curious on what some of the heads took to penertrate the hide fully ...

Some heads took 30-40 pounds pressure to penetrate... others like cut on contact fixed as little as 12 lbs...

The worst was so called missle points of the time like Wasp...

One mecanical we couldnt even make open without momentum...

The chisel points were mid range....

Maybe not a fair test without momentum...but it sure opened our eyes to broadhead tip design

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Old 11-25-2014, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knotter View Post
Many guys, including myself obsess(ed) about the bow we shoot and give only casual thought to the quality and integrity of the projectile. Too often the arrows and BHs get treated like an accessory. I have overheard some interesting conversations at the range/bow counter about how fast a bow is etc. For IBO speed the arrow they are using is effectively a soda straw with an aluminum insert and tiny field point. No talk of momentum, cutting performance, efficiency, bow noise.

Shooting proficiency is a whole other factor that is too often cited as a be all/end all response to arrow component selection. How many times have you seen a response like "put 'er where it counts and it don't matter"? What if the shooter freaks out and misses "where it counts"... That's where the killer arrow comes in to increase your odds a little.

Try this as a mental exercise... spend 20 minutes and develop the best/most lethal arrow you can and THEN worry about a bow that can shoot it well.

According to Ashby's studies. All other things things being equal :

1-cut on contact heads penetrate further than punch through style, and penetrate further on average than mechanicals (some fail to open). this equates to an immediate reduction of momentum.
2- tanto tips curl/bend/fail less often than other styles of tips... probably a reason why many millitary knives carry this profile.
3-a slick surface (arrow and BH) and reverse taper on an arrow penetrate further.
4 -Two blades penetrate further than 3 or 4.
5- Single bevel Broadheads continue to rotate after contact (it's only one factor). I wouldn't expect your best arrow to split the heavy part of a scapula no matter what. On marginal hits they do more damage than double bevels.

Now the other parts of the arrow....

6-Brass and steel inserts fail less often than aluminum inserts.
7 - EFOC arrows penetrate further than non EFOC. Something to do with less flex/oscillation. This is easier to do with heavy inserts.
8- Heavier arrows penetrate further... added benefit of possibly reducing bow noise ( a more efficient bow/arrow setup).
9- a thinner arrow penetrates further.

If each of these factors increase the results by even a few percent each it could be the difference between a hero shot and a sob story.

My $.02
Very good information here but one little observation test is that some compound bows do not maximize momentum with a heavy arrow!..... because there is too much inertia to overcome out of the hole.... (comparison to type of prop on a boat) A high speed prop has more top speed but on a heavy boat it is not effective enough unless you pour the horsepower to it....

Now lets take a 60lb compound bow.... I have found that by figuring out where momentum is maximized with it may be with a 540 grain arrow but... because its initial speed is down it has a quicker drop....

When I look at the fact that arrow placement is most important I blalnce weight with trajectory and many people are shooting a hunting arrow between 380 and 450 grains....with a compound bow....

Momentum is a very simple measure it is velocity times mass.... however because KE is what bow produces and that amount of KE is fixed based on its draw weight and length. As the bow cycles this Energy is transferred into three types of KE, mechanical energy of the arrow, and sound/noise/vibration....and heat; efficiency is expressed as percentage of KE being transferred into work or mechanical energy....

Heavier arrows will make bow quieter as well adding to efficiency.... but the bow needs to overcome the inertia of the arrow.... think of an infinitely heavy arrow.... the bow cannot overcome that inertia....and there would be a rebound effect... (archer would collapse eventually) an infinitely light arrow and there is no mass to absorb the energy meaning 100% is being transferred into noise, vibration, and heat (a dry fire) and is damaging as well....

so again there is a balance, a heavy enough arrow to get the required penetration (once arrow has passed through extra penetration is a waste).... while having a reasonable trajectory....

BUT there is also a point where momentum is maximized on a bow and depending on the draw cycle.... Here is what happens with my old target bow...

2712 indoor target arrow = 720 grains x 180 fps = 129,600 units of momentum, (Bow is quiet)

2315 indoor target arrow with 180 grain tips = 540 grains x 245 fps = 132,300 units of momentum.... (Bow is quiet)

Medallion outdoor FITA arrow = 380 grains x 295 = 112,100 units of momentum (bow gets louder) flattest trajectory out to 90 meters.. (also most consistent at long distance)

3D Arrow... 310 grains x 315 fps = 97,650 units of momentum
(bow is very loud) but has very flat trajectory out to 50 yards

Now this is initial momentum only... how they retain speed or momentum down range and the resulting effect on trajectory is huge...

Now in a brand new test bow....

Going in reverse....

310 grain arrow = 340 fps = 105,400 units of momentum (bow is loud)
380 grain hunting arrow x 320 fps = 121,600 units of momentum (bow is quiet)
405 grain hunting arrow x 296 fps = 120,000 units of momentum... (bow is quiet)
540 grain arrow x 220 fps = 11900 units of momentum....

As one can see this bow is designed best for a 380 grain hunting arrow to maximize momentum, with the extreme hard cam and overdrive style eccentric it really has a hard time getting a heavy arrow out of the hole and going.... light arrow it can get going fast and then the overdrive at the end gives a little additional kick that really kicks the speed up.... the string speed on these bows are incredible and have been built from the ground up to maximize hunting arrow characteristics...

I know what started as 2 blades vs.3 got into this but the single biggest factor in creating drag as an arrow goes through an animal is surface area, dull blades have more surface area, 3 blades have more surface area....

then broadhead shape.... steep angled broadheads have a higher angle of incidence....and slow down faster but low angled broadheads have less angle of incidence thus penetrate further... BUT HAVE MORE SURFACE AREA... thus the balance again....

then blade thickness and cutting diameter... the wider the wound channel the less the penetration...

for me I use the broadhead for the job, for my 45 lb longbow I use low incidence, heavy broadheads, because momentum is maximized with heavy arrow with that bow and need to aid penetration... got pass through on a doe at 15 yards....

with my compound when I put a 75 grain muzzy MX-3 (380 grain arrow) THROUGH a moose at over 50 yards I probably could have added 3 more blades.... however I was glad for flat trajectory....

At the end of the day they all do the job, One final comment is that with higher speeds coming from a compound is that with a 3 blade broadhead it is self correcting in flight as the potential planing vectors cancel out....

with 2 blades there is a potential planning angle that will exaggerate improper tuning... i.e. arrow spine thus why spine is so critical especially with my trad setup....
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