Table Saw or Chop saw

[Peter Abelard]

Originally Posted by Doodle30

Hey Gents

Wife has asked me for a few DIY projects this summer. Thus I have I have been approved to buy a table or chop saw.

Does it *have* to be either/or? What's your budget? Perhaps there's room for both - Particularly if you buy a used one off of kijiji.

[Badine]

Look around on kijiji for a 10 mitre saw , they work excellant for any job !

[riden]

Originally Posted by Doodle30

Hey Gents

Wife has asked me for a few DIY projects this summer. Thus I have I have been approved to buy a table or chop saw.

I'm thinking a table saw but wanted to get the input from the group as I have never owned either. What's more practical for the great number of projects.

Also would love input on blade size, brands etc.

I am not brand loyal, but for a homeowner I really think Rigid is your best bet for the $, and Home Depot does have some nice sales on Rigid.

A 12 inch sliding mitre is the Cats Azz, but very rarely do you really need a 12 inch slider. A 10 inch is really all you need. If you are trying to save a buck, a 12 inch chop saw (non slider) is very practical and is a lot of bang for the buck.

[bison]

One really don't need power tools.
I once did build an entire 32' X 48' X 14' shop including building the rafters with nothing but a hand saw and a hammer.

[CaberTosser]

I've had good experience with Freud blades, but make sure to match your blade type to your application, don't use a ripping blade where you want a fine crosscut. There are some blades that offer good compromises. Forrest blades are also well regarded (Lee Valley carries them).

http://www.freudtools.com/index.php/...hop=Woodworker

Check the page I've linked and note some of the various blade features, generally blades intended for ripping will have fewer teeth, where crosscutting will have more teeth for a smoother finish. A ripping blade will feed faster as it cuts more aggressively, and having larger spaces between teeth helps it to run cooler. The tooth patterns will vary according to purpose as well. ATB (alternating top bevel) grinds are good general purpose blades. Combination blades will generally have a series of 5 or so teeth followed by a deeper gullet, they will also have depth limiting 'knuckle' (the proper term is escaping me) which limits how aggressively you can feed material into it. It seems the Freud page can help you select something suitable with their drop down checklists.

[benamen]

I agree with everyone who says buy a Skilsaw first. With a good guide, it can cut a lot of panels. Cutting 4x8 sheets of 3/4" on a tablesaw can be challenging without enough supports. Make sure you use the correct blade for the job you are doing. And get a good quality saw. The cheap ones bind too easily and will tend to buck instead of powering through. (Used that skilsaw and a framing hammer to stick build my house. Borrowed a 7" mitre saw for the trim work).
My radial arm saw was the second saw I purchased. Used to use a wooden hockey stick handle for a fence. When a piece of wood pushed through that hockey stick and hit the back wall, I retired that thing. And I don't miss it. If you get a radial arm or mitre saw, make sure the blades have as little hook as possible and you should not have any problems. I have had 7, 10 & 12 inch mitre saws. The ten is my favourite.
I have a table saw but only use it if I am doing finish work. I use the skilsaw with a guide for a lot of my cuts. Use a sharp finishing blade and masking tape to cut down on splintering on plywood.
Good luck and have fun.

[Flanny]

Love my bosch sliding compound saw, the 12" really makes a difference.
Built a couple houses and more than a few decks with it.. just wish I waited long enough to get one of the dual glide saws.

I grew up using a radial arm saw, and for versatility its definitely your best bet.
However, it's not made to be moved around.. still, if I was building a house or needed to make that one piece of trim, its the saw I turn to most.

My table saw has a purpose too, but mostly just holding up the stack of tires in the corner. When I really need to be precise on large pieces I use it, and it works great.
But with the right circular saw (mine's makita) you can do 90% of your square or angle cuts just fine. it's bevels that you really see the disadvantage of a circ.

just my nickel.
(.02 adjusted for inflation and lack of pennies)

Flanny

[Kim473]

Originally Posted by Doodle30

Wow it's like you guys where waiting for a "Saw" thread. Lots of replies quickly. My expected cuts will be handled by a 10 sliding chop saw but I wondered about the possibility of needing to rip a few boards in the future.

Right now my projects are patio furniture and a couple of other small projects. At some point I need a shed and we have an unfinished basement that may end-up being a project. Honestly in those projects there wouldn't be many requirements to rip a board.

I recomend a good chop saw and a good skill saw for ripping. Make a couple of jigs for the skill saw, ripping.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oiSz7kPwFY0

[Redneck 7]

Decks and fences and the odd project at him like flower planters or a shed or shelves if say buy a table saw before a chop saw. Everyone on my crew thinks the same thing and majority of them have their own wood shops. I don't want to say how much more and easier you can do bevels on a table saw with a jig and mitre saw.

I bought a chop saw and I wish I bought a table saw first. But then again I couldn't pass up the deal I bought it for.

[aulrich]

As a non-professional I use in general order of importance.
1 Chop
2 Reciprocating (very useful in demo work)
3 Table
4 Band
5 Flooring saw (a small circular saw in a fixture)
6 Circular ( I usually get sheet good cut at the lumber yard on the panel saw)
7 Jig (though it has barely seen the light of day since the band saw)

though in any one job I could use most of them at least once.

But IIRC my purchase order was Circular, Jig, Table then Chop, mostly to match the jobs I was doing at the time

Though 2,3,4 are very close in usage the band saw more so since I started lure making, My table saw is just a bench top built into a larger work table and has done well enough, but it would have been replaced had I continued making furniture. And that brings up what grade of tool I do try and stay away from Ryobie, B&D and Skill and other consumer grade tools , budget and common sense usually kills contractor grade stuff since I am a homer. But there are certain purchases that it pay in the long run to get the best you can afford.

Some of the corded consumer hand tools are darn near indestructible so there is a spot there to save on budget Circular saw comes to mind there.

The don’t forget about a router , routers are hugely useful once you start finish/furniture type work. And one with both a fixed and plunge base, the fixed goes into the router table you will build.

But definitely look at the work you have at hand.

[turbo mulcher]

I have a ELU its a flip saw, table saw and mitre, hangs on the wall when not in use. I think they are made in Germany. haven't used it in years bought it for a project

[twofifty]

Originally Posted by CaberTosser

For infrequent ripping a fellow can always clamp or screw down a second sheet of plywood to the stock they're cutting to use as a guide for their hand held circular saw. Sometimes I'll do this when cross-cutting plywood or cutting some oddball angle

That's the answer right there if the OP has a skilsaw.
OP, look up or ask about a "shooting board" on a carpentry website.
Shooting boards are also great for cutting sheet goods on the diagonal, and they also prevent tear out along the cutline.

For the work you have in mind, get the mitre saw (double compound 10" slider is really nice, 12" more capy but maybe less precise and heavier) and rig yourself a shooting board.

[twofifty]

Originally Posted by bison

One really don't need power tools.
I once did build an entire 32' X 48' X 14' shop including building the rafters with nothing but a hand saw and a hammer.

That must have been an epic project!

[aulrich]

Yea I think about my uncles building houses with about that, skill and time

Mind you, not too many actually square corners in buildings before the mid 70’s

[twofifty]

Have been in attics of 1915s to 1940s hip-roofed homes. The quality of the handsawn cheek cuts those old-timers did on hip and jack rafters is amazing.

[Sportman87]

All great information, a few people on here have longer exp. in the trade than I do, but I'm a young carpenter that's been in it for 10 years. And yes a circular saw (makita)can do anything a table saw can. I prefer using it for most back yard DIY's I've actually coped base board profiles with them, it may have needed a little sand paper to touch up but now I know I can. Basically start off small, get used to it, get creative! Once you realize that you can't cut a 3 1/2" crown moulding with with a 45 deg. Mitre with a proper back cut then you hop into something more suitable (12" sliding compound mitre saw personally I prefer dewalt ) and even though a table saw maybe nice it takes up room. A circular saw can do the same thing with a good aluminum straight edge! Jus remember circular saw cuts on upstroke, table saw blade cuts on downstroke take thT into consideration when cutting melamine or good one side. Ultimately youtube is your best source for what TO do and the what NOT to do.

[bison]

Originally Posted by twofifty

That must have been an epic project!

Not really,i wasn't afraid of hard work and it kept me slim and trim . i build it in one summer between calving and seeding and haying and harvest. i build the forms for the concrete foundation as well + two sections of 10 x 14' sliding door
The only help i got was from 2 neighbors with putting the rafters up and my then 11 and 12 year old sons helped on the weekends and the summer vacation.
The year before i build the shop i build a 30 x 14' addition to my house trailer and a 32 x 32 pole calving and dairy barn for my 50 beef and 4 dairy cows, again only with hand saw and hammer and of course a couple other hand tools, and an electric drill.(you'll be amazed how fast a good sharp hand saw cuts)
(i had just started farming that year on a bare 1/2 section land with no building on it)

[Digger1]

Also check for display models for sale. Wife was in Home Depot lookin around, bought me an awesome Ridgid table saw for $400, regular $700!

[Doodle30]

Hey Gents

I see it's on sale at CT. 55% off. $275 as I recall. Any comments in that exact unit. I know there are probably better brands but bang for your buck that seems like a good price to me. 5 year Warranty I thin it said as well.

[twofifty]

Originally Posted by bison

Not really,i wasn't afraid of hard work and it kept me slim and trim . i build it in one summer between calving and seeding and haying and harvest. i build the forms for the concrete foundation as well + two sections of 10 x 14' sliding door
The only help i got was from 2 neighbors with putting the rafters up and my then 11 and 12 year old sons helped on the weekends and the summer vacation.
The year before i build the shop i build a 30 x 14' addition to my house trailer and a 32 x 32 pole calving and dairy barn for my 50 beef and 4 dairy cows, again only with hand saw and hammer and of course a couple other hand tools, and an electric drill.(you'll be amazed how fast a good sharp hand saw cuts)
(i had just started farming that year on a bare 1/2 section land with no building on it)

Hat off to you.

By epic I meant lots of physical satisfying work...standing back at day's end and seeing results. And a lifetime of memories for your kids: EPIC.

I usually have a sharp crosscut saw in my work van, for the occasional things that a skillsaw just can't do - like fat tall jackrafter cuts. And they keep things moving when the power is down.

[twofifty]

Originally Posted by Sportman87

....
I'm a young carpenter that's been in it for 10 years. .....
.... get creative! Once you realize that you can't cut a 3 1/2" crown moulding with with a 45 deg. Mitre with a proper back cut then you hop into something more suitable (12" sliding compound mitre saw personally I prefer dewalt

The Collins Coping Foot accessory, sold in USA and available online.
I have the coping foot that fits the Bosch jigsaw. Look at videos and
see for yourself how efficiently it copes complex base, chair or crown profiles.

[bison]

Originally Posted by twofifty

Hat off to you.

By epic I meant lots of physical satisfying work...standing back at day's end and seeing results. And a lifetime of memories for your kids: EPIC.

I usually have a sharp crosscut saw in my work van, for the occasional things that a skillsaw just can't do - like fat tall jackrafter cuts. And they keep things moving when the power is down.

That it was but i sold that place after 6 years.
I bought a bigger ranch and got to do it all over again.(was a burned down house and barn on it).
Build an whole house on it in the first summer... with my brothers help and power tools this time though .
We camped out in a tent till the house was livable and just when it started to freeze up,...Was a wet year too...lots of rain.

[Nichevo]

Originally Posted by Digger1

Also check for display models for sale. Wife was in Home Depot lookin around, bought me an awesome Ridgid table saw for $400, regular $700!

You will likely have troubles with the fence. I took mine apart and milled the faces flat, it's adequate now. If you haven't put the top on yet, give it a good inspection. The first top I got was cupped about 20 thousandths just left of the blade. It made precision work very difficult (Ridgid sent me a new top though). Take the time to shim the top so that it's true, if you haven't already got it put together.

Overall it's a decent saw for the money, the base is second to none. Oh yeah, one more thing, pay attention to which side you put the fence holder on, if you haven't put it together yet.

If I was to do it again I would head over to Busy Bee Tools and buy their base-line craftex saw.

[Penner]

Originally Posted by Doodle30

Hey Gents

Wife has asked me for a few DIY projects this summer. Thus I have I have been approved to buy a table or chop saw.

I'm thinking a table saw but wanted to get the input from the group as I have never owned either. What's more practical for the great number of projects.

Also would love input on blade size, brands etc.

Get rid of the wife and buy both!

[Mountain Skyline]

I agree it depends on what you need the saw to do. They are both required for specific jobs.

[Doodle30]

Originally Posted by Penner

Get rid of the wife and buy both!

Kept the wife but buying both.

[supracar865]

really old thread! wups.

[32-40win]

Can't remember reading it before, so, that's ok. Some good info in it.
Myself, my favorite tool is my 14" bandsaw, amazing what can be done on it. Then the chopsaw, wished I'd bought a slider afterwards, only cuts about a 4-5" board without turning it over. I also have a General Int'l tablesaw w/52" top and a Bulldog router leaf on the end, which occupies a fair bit of floorspace. And a Porter-Cable portable 10" saw which is parked in the corner of the garage. I only use the big tablesaw when doing big stuff or if I want really nice cuts on long stuff, or thick stuff, or for routing.
For a large portion of stuff though, I use the bandsaw, it is quick and convenient for many things.

[Prairiewolf]

Originally Posted by Winch101

# 1. New golf clubs

A Bosch sliding miter saw..... 10 " they are about 400 bucks
I have one .....nice

My sawing days are over .....I have a 10" Craftsman portable
Table saw mint ,could be yours for more than reasonable .

If you know what you are doing a good Skill saw is a must .

Blades ....60 tooth for chop
40 for table .
You can buy decent carbides for cheaper than sharpening costs .

This is excellent advice, and the Bosch slider is amazing.

I find if you have a good skill saw with appropriate blades, clamps, and a straightedge, you can do alot of what you'd do on a table saw (ever try and get an accurate rip on a 4x8 sheet of plywood on a small deck table saw? It sucks).

[wbl170]

Track saws pretty much can eliminate the table saw. With the right blades even double laminates and melamine can be cut well.