Quote:
Originally Posted by jmparker
thanks for the pics Keg!! that helps a lot. looks like you have your conibear almost totally in the water for the bank set? i was going to set on the bank where there beavers have dug in to make a house. should i concentrate on where they have climbed out of the water onto the bank or in front of the lodge entrances? i appreciate any ideas as this is my first trapping season.  |
If you can set the approach to a den entrance, say a foot out from the opening, it ought to work very well. Just make sure there's enough room for the jaws to swing freely.
I would not set on dry land, for a number of reasons. #1, too much chance of a by catch. #2 If your catch does not make it into the water, spoilage and rodent damage becomes an issue. #3 Fur damage is far more likely and it is much more likely that the fur will be very dirty, thus more preparation time, washing the fur. And last but not least, #4 It's much harder to get a beaver to stick it's head in a trap set on dry land.
In the water they are used to pushing through sticks and debris, not so much on land. They will want to go around your set if it's on dry land.
It can work, but for me it's much easier to set in the water.
The reason I set my traps so deep is to get them to dive into the trap.
This places them at a disadvantage because their sight is very limited when under water. They can see under water but they have a second eyelid they close under water. It's transparent but limits their vision greatly.
I don't want them to totally dive, just duck under for a second, thus I set the trap with the jaws about an inch above water. Give or take an inch.
The reason I prefer the pull out set is because pull out places are generally easy to find. Remember, it doesn't have to be a place they are using, only a place they could use and it helps if it is a place they are likely to use at some time. Something close to a known travel route or close to a place you know they frequent.
Making a pull out set far from the House and any runs isn't usually all that effective, unless there is sign they have been active in that area.
Here is one such place that did produce. This is from my County trapper work.
Unmarked photo
Guide stick placement.
Green is the guide sticks, Red is the trap, Yellow is the trap stabilizing sticks. white is the trigger.
A word about stabilizing the trap. The way I do it is with two sticks run through the spring loops. I cross them above the trap as seen so that they form a triangle with the apex above the trap. This way the sticks pass between the corners of the jaws which stabilizes the trap and the angle holds the trap at the height you want.
One last thing, the trap is only held in this position while set. There is nothing besides the stabilizing sticks holding the trap.
That way, when the trap triggers it is free so the beaver can pull it into deeper water which makes it harder for the beaver to fight and it speed the beavers demise.
And the results. Note the trap in the background. Top of the photo, just right of center.
The catch is propped against a stump like the one beside it in case anyone was wondering.
One last thing about my way of trapping beaver. I do not anchor my trap in place. What I do is attach a cable to one spring loop, or to the end of the anchor chain. I use three to six feet of 1/8" aircraft cable with a noose at one end.
Here is a trap rigged with a cable. I traced the cable in red as it is hard to see it in this photo.
I drop the noose over a nearby stump or around a stout branch or similar object. Or I drive a stout stake into the ground next to the set and drop the noose over that. Make sure that whatever you attach it to is strong enough to hold a live beaver for at least fifteen minute.
In most cases the catch will die in less then a minute, but accidents do happen.
This system allows the beaver to pull the trap into deeper water, which hopefully is enough to submerge the catch. In my experience they will dive for deeper water the second the trap triggers.
Most catches are found with the anchor cable stretched to it's limit, into deep water.
Most of the time when I approach a set that has connected, all that is visible is the noose around the stump and the part of the cable that is above water. There is nothing else visable that indicates there is a set or any suggestion of an caught animal. This has obvious benefits.
Keep in mind that this is how I do it, others may do it differently.
Mine may not be the best way. It's certainly not the only way and for sure my way could be improved upon.
My way will get you started but never ignore suggestions from other trappers. Learn, adapt, improve. Take what you learn from me, add it to what you learn from others and in the end, hopefully you will be a better trapper then me and the others you learn from.
Then you can teach others to be even better trappers then yourself.
Trapping is a great profession. It's challenging, it's a renewable resource, it offers freedom no other job offers, It's recreation, an income, self reliance, and being part of nature all rolled into one.
There is no other profession that is as natural, or that leaves a smaller footprint on the land. And in my book, there is no other profession that is as enjoyable.
Every day is a challenge. Every set exciting. Going from set to set never knowing what you'll find, the anticipation, the disappointment when nothing works, the trill when it all comes together. There is nothing like it.
Go get em!!
Beaver trouble
However that's not saying that it won't work .
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